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JustinBeevor last won the day on September 23 2017

JustinBeevor had the most liked content!

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About JustinBeevor

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    Moray Eel
  • Birthday 09/22/1961

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    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony a7iii
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra Pro flash
  • Accessories
    WWL-1B; SMC; CMC; FIT Flare LED1200 WSR

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  1. The best short macro lens for Sony APSC! The Zeiss Touit 50mm f2.8 macro lens: sharp, bright, fast and small. Selling as a package with Nauticam macro port 45 (36135) and mini extension ring 30 (36630). All in excellent condition, very well cared for; lens has front and rear caps and hood; all original boxes, documents and ancillaries included as shown in photographs. £800, plus postage. Located in Manchester UK, so likely to attract import duty if sold overseas.
  2. Looking to get my hands on a Nauticam dome to go with my Sigma 15mm. Ideally 140mm, but I'd consider something bigger at the right price. Based in Manchester, UK.
  3. Full list of gear and prices is attached to the post in pdf; and again here. Sony: Nauticam UWP gear for sale.pdf
  4. Having upgraded to full frame, I'm selling all my a6500 gear - including the housing (with power pack), 45° viewfinder, camera, WWL-C and 16-50mm zoom kit, Touit 50mm macro and port, Sony 10-18mm zoom with dome, TRT flash trigger, a couple of other ports, and various topside lenses including the 16-70mm f4 zoom and 24mm f1.8 ZA. Full list attached. I've not included pictures of everything, so if you're interested, let me know and I'll send what you need. Sony: Nauticam UWP gear for sale.pdf
  5. Working distance for portraits were quite comfortable - at a rough guess, around one to two metres. Re-reading my last para about the zooms, I wasn't very clear, so here goes. For dry land, I prefer the 18-55 over the 16-50, as I found the latter too small and fiddly. Underwater, the 18-55 is no good as it extends when zooming, so it won't go in a port; so now that the WWL and CMC are available, I might look again at the 16-50 as a practical solution for travelling.
  6. I am looking to buy a pair of 60x250 Nauticam float arms, if anyone would like to sell?
  7. I can recommend the 90 - I have two albums on flickr where I used it, the first on a 6300 (https://flic.kr/s/aHskM6doVq) and the second on a 6500 (https://flic.kr/s/aHskWp3PkA) - see what you think. Sure, it's expensive, there's no way around that, but you've got a great little camera, and you shouldn't be put off by the additional investment. As to batteries, I never had a problem with the 6300 - I found that a single one would easily last two dives, so I just changed for a spare (I travel with two) at lunchtime when I was back on dry land. I've also tried the Touit 50mm, but didn't get on with it at all - it just kept hunting, hunting, hunting and I missed so many shots of mobile subjects because of it. I don't understand why - I raised an issue with the reputable shop that sold it to me, but it foxed them too. That's why I chopped it in for the 90mm. There's another flickr album with a few successful shots at https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYjPX5J. Also, it's not a cheap lens either itself (although there are more used ones than the 90mm) - so you may as well pay a little extra for the 90. (You mention focus extension, but the Touit is fixed length, so maybe you mean the newer FE 50M, which I haven't touched.) The other benefit of the 90 is that it takes the SMC, which gives you access to the magical world of BDSM (big dollops of super-macro). IMHO the 16-50 is a nasty little thing ergonomically, which I ditched as soon as I bought my 6300, and kept my old 18-55 ... but it's no use underwater as it's an extender. But actually, now that the WWL and CMC are available, it could be a better travel option for flexibility, if that's your priority. Hope that helps. Justin
  8. Assuming that you're using manual settings, have you tried dialling down the on-camera flash compensation as far as it will go? I've tried myself and (oddly, but perhaps it's because I'm using fill-flash in daylight) can't see that it makes any material difference to the lighting of the shot - but it might possibly reduce the recycling time. Just a thought.
  9. This is a very good question, and one which I have often wondered about. But I have used my Nauticam-housed a6500 with both Inon Z240 and Retra Flash strobes, and never noticed any significant detriment from the recycling time of the internal flash. I can't see that the Fantasea tried would fit into the housing; and if a workable trigger were developed, is be fascinated to know how much improvement it brought. Incidentally, I do expertise greater frustrations from the topside flash capability of the a6500, than underwater - especially as concerns off-camera wireless remote. The fact that the HVLF43 flash can't be triggered by the internal unit is an astonishingly poor design decision. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Valuable comments from Mark, as always. The FE 90 macro is indeed a bit of a giant, but I find it much more useable then the Touit 50, especially with diopters. There are very few creatures that allow one to approach closely enough to use the Touit's tiny focus distance. For fisheye, he Tokina 10-17/Metabones combination works excellently with the a6500, although again it's quite a size. I have the Mark V adapter, and had no complaints about the autofocus at all (which can be a problem with adapted lenses): quick and consistent. It's true that the lack of a proper native fisheye is a downside to the Sony range underwater, but the Tokina works fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. If you're looking for a rectilinear wide angle solution, I would recommend the 10-18 zoom with the Nauticam 7" acrylic. It's a much better lens than the 16mm with converter, and the dome gives a good solution for over/under if that's what you're after (and I get what you're saying about the 4.33" in that regard). In case you're not on Nauticam (if not why not?! [emoji14]), there must be other solutions for a compatible dome. The problem with rectilinear is that especially at the wider end, and close in, it can stretch perspective rather nastily. Equally, you can have some fun with that, but it just doesn't work for CFWA - for that, you need fisheye. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. On my NEX6 and a6300 I always used the 16+fisheye and, to be honest, never had a huge problem with corner sharpness - not because the corners were sharp, I just didn't notice that they weren't. But since I've been doing a few workshops and rubbing shoulders with the pro crowd more, and entering competitions, I have been more sensitive to the issue. I still don't think it's severe enough to stop me using the lens - as you say, stopping down helps (who needs shallow DoF with wide angle anyway?), but I haven't done detailed testing, so don't take my word for it. For my a6500 I do want to look at the alternatives, and that's why I'm splashing out on the Tokky 10-17 for my forthcoming Socorro trip. But it will have cost me over £2,000 for lens, converter and Zen dome. TF my wife doesn't read WetPixel (I hope). Justin Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. I've been using the 10-18 with Nauticam 7" port for some years, and upgraded to the a6500 earlier this year. The disadvantage of the 10-18 being a rectilinear lens, is that it distorts perspective in a way that can sometimes be quite confusing, stretching the edges of the frame and making the foreground feel vertical, especially when zoomed all the way out. A couple of examples below. So it's not the right lens for CFWA and I only tend to use it for over/under splits. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5l_gNVD9kYINVFFbjU5dERuVjg https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5l_gNVD9kYIS3JxSmw1YnpoU0E That said, it certainly has its uses, and retaining straight lines, as you might need for deep wrecks, is a good application for it. Alex's shot of a cormorant (?) diving into a shoal under a rig is a prime example. It is also good for use with larger creatures that don't like you getting too close, like these of sharks: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5l_gNVD9kYIeE9vSDFscHdqY1E https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5l_gNVD9kYIMHh5eFNDSGxDUnc The standard alternative would be the Sony 16mm with fisheye converter, which I have used successfully but certainly has quality issues. Otherwise, I shall be using the Tokina 10-17 with Metabones Mk 5 converter for the first time when I go to Socorro in November (and will also take the 10-18). People allude to auto-focus issues with converters, but so far it seems to be pretty good on dry land. Hope that helps. (I'll be deleting the linked photos after about a week.) JB
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