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Tom_Kline

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Tom_Kline last won the day on January 16

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About Tom_Kline

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    Great White
  • Birthday April 24

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  • Website URL
    http://www.salmonography.com/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alaska
  • Interests
    fishes and invertebrates

Additional Info

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS-1DIV, EOS-1DsII & III, and 1DX; Nikon D1X, D2X, D3X, and D2H
  • Camera Housing
    Seacam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra, Seacam Seaflash 60D, 150D and 250D, Inon Z22 and Z220, Sea&Sea YS-250
  • Accessories
    Seacam remote control, Seacam, ULCS, & TLC trays and arms
  • Industry Affiliation
    salmonography.com

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  1. I have a further suggestion for the adapter. That is to make it possible to bolt it in place. For example, have the diameter be thicker where the set screw is located so the side opposite to the set screw could be flattened a bit, then drilled and tapped for either M6 or 1/4-20. One could either bolt something on directly on or use a ball fitting similar to the one on the strobe. M8 would be overkill. For example: https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p1630_u-l-c-s--ad-6-ball-adapter.html
  2. Oskar, Thank you for your reply. I had success times two but before that let me address your question. The only twisting was incidental. Nothing at all like described in edit 1 which I did not see until after doing the repair this morning. The strobe was mounted on a ball at the top of the housing (ball normally used for pole cam or focusing lights). So the only movement came from plugging and unplugging the plastic end into the strobe and incidental movement to move the cabling out of the way - I used a standard curly Seacam S6 - S6 cable. After the initial failure I started swapping strobes so there was a little more movement of the cable. First the old model. When it failed I got a Seacam S6 - S&S cable which I attached to the opposite bulkhead to confirm functionality of strobe and camera which turned out OK. Then I went for the second adapter - at this point I had not yet opened the box containing the 2nd strobe plus accessories. Number 2 worked OK as I described yesterday. Today. I first fixed the problematic adapter. It was challenging to remove the broken bit. I found success by using a micro screw driver to wedge it out about 0.5mm. I was then able to grab hold of it with a small needle-nose pliers - the one I had in my UWP tool kit. The transparent part came out first. Following a little more digging with the screwdriver I got enough of the black part out to grab with the pliers. The screwdriver I used as well as the two parts of the cable that I removed are in the attached pic. One can see the wear on the ends resulting from my extraction technique. I then attached it to my housing after mounting the old strobe. Made sure it was on SL and it worked! I think I had it on to just "on" yesterday. So success on both the cord as well as the old strobe working via fiber optics. My suggestion is to have the hole at metal end of the adapter part be of dimensions compatible with the plug that is on the strobe end of fiber optic and use the same plastic part on each end. Think double-ender like a Viking ship. One could unplug the fiber optic part from the adapter part for traveling making them easier to pack. Fiber optic cords could be packed separately into a more or less flat compartment. This would reduce stress on the fiber optic part since it would not have a heavy object attached to the end (the adapter part). People like me would be happy if you sold the plastic plugs by the boxload (2 dozen or even 50!). I like having backups plus the cords could be made for different lengths. The set screws could even go in a small ziplock bag saving the labor of installing them. Thanks, Tom
  3. I have some S&S connectors as well but they are of the wired kind so do not work on the new strobe models. I had some trouble getting my new strobes to work. Optical adapter #1 would not trigger yet I could see the red flash at the end of the fiber. I tired both of my new pros as well as one of my originals. No dice. To make sure it was not the camera I was able to confirm the strobe worked by using the wired connector. Then I unpacked adapter #2 and it worked on the new strobes! Was able to fire each pro but not able to fire the old Retra. So looking more carefully at adapter #1 I noticed red light coming out from around the fiber cable where it comes out of the adapter but did not see this with #2. So I decided to re-terminate #1. While looking for a matching Allen wrench size to loosen the set screw the cable broke off completely - see pic. Looks like a very bad design to me if the cable crimped where it comes out from the adapter. It might be better to have a bigger hole to match the one on the strobe fitting and have the same part on each end of the cable. This would make exchanging cables at each end much easier. I am not sure how to proceed now as there is not much to grab on to. The fiber optic did not just drop out after loosening the set screw. I tucked in the broken end of the fiber optic under the velcro strap for the pic.
  4. We will have to hear from Oskar. Meanwhile I was curious about the black cap over the optical sensor. I have never used these on my ori. Retras and have only used the similar part on my Inons when using them as slaves. The Inon part fits on the Retra Pro but the Retra part does nor fit on the Inons due to the larger diameter of the sensor - at least on the Z220 model. The hole in the Inon part has a larger diameter.
  5. Yes that is what I was referring. I seem to recall from when I ordered the strobes that two fiber optic cables could be used but that one would be included with each adapter.
  6. Mine arrived so just starting. Fiber optics are totally new to me too. Was not able to find the "app" either via Google using Chrome on my computer nor the Apple app from the Apple App store. There needs to be a back up maybe a pdf at the Retra website? Trying to figure out how 2 fiber optics are attached to the adapter. Is the part that inserts into the strobe a standard part?
  7. FWIW my DHL bill is 110US for two pro strobes plus two synch adapters. As well, DHL has to mail it to me since I am in the boonies.
  8. FWIW I have FW version 2.20 in my Z6. Since FW update affected the AF it could be significant for these TCs.
  9. I have not shot any pix with the 8-15 and TC so cannot comment on image quality. I removed the lens shade during my test yesterday. Note that the shade will cause strange vignetting at wide settings. It is interesting that my oldish TC is AFing just fine on the Z6.
  10. Got a DHL call today! Now if our airport does not shut down like last week!
  11. I use FF mainly for very high ISO. I use 12800 a fair bit (35.5K of 315K underwater images according to LR) as that is the upper limit I have set for auto ISO with my Canon 1DX which is now somewhat old. Have used higher but then needed a very heavy hand at noise reduction. I am also shooting FF Nikon mainly for the RS lenses. Does the OP have a high ISO need?
  12. I do not have your exact set-up. However I just now tried my Z6 + FTZ + 8-15mm - That works A-OK. Then I inserted a Kenko 2x converter that is a number of years old (probably close to a decade). I bought it for the old 105D Micro-Nikkor before there was a 105VR. It is called "2X TELEPLUS PRO 300" on the top surface and "KENKO N-AFD Made in Japan. DG" (the first D is smaller sized) not quite on the bottom (towards right (grip) side). This combinations works OK - was able to AF. The aperture readout in the camera is 3.5 to 4.5 when set wide open so is NOT reading effective f-stop.
  13. No problem ;->> Delete "very" from my earlier post! :-< Yup under water we want to shoot subjects that are about 1 foot to 1 meter away if at all possible. Especially with flash. One needs alternate techniques such as slaved strobes or more ambient light for greater distances IMHO. Pools have their challenges as well.
  14. The super long arms was an absurd suggestion of course. Possibly slaved strobes placed very 1.5 m to the left and right might have helped. Lighting up a large flat surface with strobes under water is problematic, e.g., walls. BTW I have taken many fisheye shots using just one strobe at the 12 o'clock about a foot above the lens optical axis A-OK. Subject is at point blank range. Seacam strobes with diffusers work rather well. Inon strobes (Z220) with their flat diffusers not so much
  15. Glad you found the lens to be sharp. Not sure of the point of the light fall off measurements. The corners of the pool were at a greater distance than the middle, i.e., > 1.5m. Maybe with super-duper long strobe arms so that each strobe would be halfway to each pool end from your position ;->>
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