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Tom_Kline

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Tom_Kline last won the day on March 29 2017

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About Tom_Kline

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    Great White
  • Birthday April 24

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  • Website URL
    http://www.salmonography.com/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alaska
  • Interests
    fishes and invertebrates

Additional Info

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS-1DIV, EOS-1DsII & III, and 1DX; Nikon D1X, D2X, D3X, and D2H
  • Camera Housing
    Seacam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra, Seacam Seaflash 60D, 150D and 250D, Inon Z22 and Z220, Sea&Sea YS-250
  • Accessories
    Seacam remote control, Seacam, ULCS, & TLC trays and arms
  • Industry Affiliation
    salmonography.com

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  1. Yes it is fairly long. This is solved by stacking port extension tubes as needed per Tim's point. The above photo shows how I use it use with just the zoom ring which is near the lens mount. Something like this should work with most housings once you get the appropriate gear for your housing. The focusing ring is more problematic since it is quite far from the lens mount. Special tubes incorporating a focusing knob were built for this (used also for the 200 macro). As well one needs a gear for the M-A ring that you see here to switch focusing modes. The older (non AFS) 60 and 105 macros and a few other lenses also have these rings so you may be familiar with them. I have the lens set to minimum focusing distance (lens is thus shown at maximum physical length) and the ring set at A effectively locking it here so long as AF in the camera is set to off. Also on the lens is the Nikon close-up lens No. 6T. I used the UV as a lens cap when I removed it from the housing then later found a 62mm cap to go on so I am using the "belt and suspenders" principle by leaving both on. The 6T is hard to find so it is a good idea to protect it while out of a housing. It is quite thick and does not fit in a standard filter case so I store it on the lens. With this setup I can vary the magnification using the zoom while holding the rig in a fixed position - this minimizes water movement between the port and subject. Working distance is just a few inches (working distance can be changed by using the other T close up lens (it is either plus or minus 1 from 6) or by focusing). Hidden under the zoom gear is a rubber ring that Nikon installed when I had them remove the tripod foot that is not user removable.
  2. Combinations I found quite useful included the old 20mm f/1.8 and 28mm f/1.8 super-close focusing Sigmas, respectfully, with the Nikon D2X (so 30mm equiv.) and Canon 1Ds2 to shoot juvenile salmonids in streams by remote control without using a viewfinder. Only general pointing with a pole cam - literally point and shoot photography. Some cropping was needed to fix the composition for some shots. I used a small sized dome as well due to the shallow water. So usefulness may not equal zero. Here is an example: https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-species-galleries/Cutthroat-Trout/i-sQKSJtH/A
  3. The crop factors do make comparisons problematic. As well, the Nikonos lenses become less useful when cropped IMHO. For example, cropping may cut out the more problematic portions of the image taken in by ultra-wides like 14mm topside lenses, so they potentially work out better for video than ff stills. Actually I used the 14mm prime Nikkor quite a bit with the D2X (i.e. crop) not all that long ago... ;->>
  4. Thanks for the compliment. No on the WACP as it is a non-Seacam solution. I am not sure what I would do starting over. Since it is apparent that we are at the start of a new paradigm, i.e., mirrorless for all major brands, this is particularly challenging. My gear collection is largely a result of the last 15 years of digital history and no real planning on my part. Correct on army brat.
  5. Where did the 28mm value in the first sentence come from? The Nikonos 15mm is like a 20mm lens behind a dome as you stated further up. It looks like Pawel's shot is a bit back focused, corals slightly back are sharper than the ones lit. Maybe not the best example to make his point. Ian is correct about the old Nikonos mount; one has to avoid putting side pressure on a lens with a moment arm longer than ~ the 35mm lens, e.g., this applies when using extension tubes. Back in the day I would take an NIII with the 28mm lens with me in my BC pocket with no problems from giant striding in.
  6. John, Yes I remember Dick Tracy which I read almost daily in the Stars and Stripes newspaper in Germany as a child 50 years ago! Adam reported elsewhere that the minimum working distance of the WACP is zero whereas it is about a foot or so with the 20-35 (my recollection from film days). Therefore one might be able to get a slightly better fish portrait of a small fish with the WACP but this needs to be confirmed in a pool test with something like the rubber duck in: That said I think this answer is academic as really neither lens will be good for a portrait of a small reef fish which are better shot with a 50 to 200 mm macro lens with optimum focal length being inversely proportional to fish size. They are OK for larger fish as well as schools of fish. I got in a manta at a cleaning station with the RS lens at 20. I did manage to chop of part of a wing in a few shots so wider could have been even better. https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-cleaning-symbioses/i-mSDXvcV/A Tom
  7. I have been using the Z6 for nearly a year and have found the focusing to be quite good, maybe even better than my D3X. It is challenging to make direct comparisons; for example, one should have 2 copies of the same Nikon AF lens, which I do not have. The Z6 worked very well in near darkness with the only lights being Christmas lights. As well, the viewfinder is much brighter than an SLR; basically it is a form of night vision. It would be interesting to see how this works under water with color being off. I would not be surprised if one could dispense with a focusing light during day dives which may be needed in shaded spots. Another advantage is being able to move the AF points around beyond the central area (applies to FF). I generally use 1 point AF which seems the fastest probably because it uses less computing power. That said I believe Canon and Nikon could have done much better AFwise. This might require more computing power (2nd CPU?) which could drain batteries even more. I am waiting to see what their pro sports mirrorless cameras turn out to be. Hopefully they will have batteries with a far higher CPA rating as well.
  8. I have wondered about this myself. Looks like the shade comes off but I have not seen what it looks like after this. It would be cool if one could swap out the front glass oneself to enable field repair assuming one had a spare on hand. A new cycle of cameras are due starting with the 1Dx3 and D6. We do not know at this time whether there will be a new 5D as well. If so this would be a good upgrade for you in a year or so that would work with your WACP. I would wait to see what the 1D equivalent mirrorless turns out to be before switching to Sony especially if you have a lot of EF glass.
  9. John, I have a Seacam modified 20-35 and shot the 20-35 as well with film "back in the day" with the RS. The minimum focusing distance of the lens is 0.38m which limits how much "reach" one will get at 35mm if I understand your use of this term. Filling the frame with something small? I use the lens mainly at 20mm but do have a few at 35mm on my website from HI. Such as this one: https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-Invertebrates/i-ktJSpXN/A I do not know if this was shot at minimum focus distance or not but probably not as I did not want collide with lava rock as I was drifting along the backwall of Molokini! The Pencil Urchin is fairly large but there is a smaller species above it. The images to right of this are also with this RS lens. The exif data report it as the 16mm fisheye but this is incorrect. The focal length, however, is correct. Exif data can be seen my clicking on the three-line symbol below the arrowhead symbol in the upper left as seen on a computer. To properly answer your question likely requires using the RS lens side by side with the WACP in a controlled situation such as a pool like Alex Mustard did in his excellent video on dome ports. A point he makes in it is that some wide angle options limit ones ability to get close to a subject because the optics get in the way, hence the need for the 10cm/4" macro domes. Maybe the answer to your question is "none of the above" like in multiple choice questions ;->> Tom
  10. ULCS sells grips that go in the round hole. Possible to put one on each side. One can be lower than the other - good for even more accessories to go on top and not be too high.
  11. Stephen Frink did some extensive testing of the 17-40 Canon lens as well as other lenses a few years ago. See results here: https://www.seacamusa.com/uncategorized/lens-testing-underwater-use/ and https://www.seacamusa.com/lenses-ports-domes/canon-16-35mm-ii-lens-test/ The super dome he used has counterparts in most underwater housing systems - the glass part may be made by one company. Note that both the 35-40 and 16-35 lenses that were tested have been replaced by much better lenses. As well, the relatively new Sea and Sea Internal Correction Lens is a game changer for this using type of lens (there are several threads on Wetpixel about this lens). Also on Wetpixel - there are a lot of threads on the 17-40 going way back as this was popular lens because of its cost.
  12. I bought a Seacam Pro VF from Ian Marsh from this ad: This was an excellent transaction. Great communication. The VF arrived very promptly and well packed. I would buy from Ian again. Thank you Ian! Tom
  13. I am seeing it OK in subsequent posts. The arrows (left and right) are below the level of the reply box. Maybe need to scroll down a wee bit more?
  14. Correct. If the subject is centered and has just water as a background one can use a larger aperture. Out of focus blue is not so noticeable.
  15. This is due to the curvature of the virtual image generated by a dome port. Basically you are trying to focus on the inside surface of a large bowl. Stopping a lens down increases depth of field increasing the chance of getting the sides of the bowl in focus.
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