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Tom_Kline

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Tom_Kline last won the day on March 30

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About Tom_Kline

  • Rank
    Great White
  • Birthday 04/24/1954

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  • Website URL
    http://www.salmonography.com/
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alaska
  • Interests
    fishes, other vertebrates, and invertebrates

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS-1DIV, EOS-1DsII & III, and 1DX; Nikon D1X, D2X, D3X, D4S, and D2H
  • Camera Housing
    Seacam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra Original & Pro, Seacam Seaflash 60D, 150D and 250D, Inon Z22 and Z220, Sea&Sea YS-250
  • Accessories
    Seacam remote control, Seacam, ULCS, & TLC trays and arms
  • Industry Affiliation
    salmonography.com

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  1. The Canon 8-15 has been my "go-to" lens for salmon since it came out; have two copies of it so I can deploy two cameras with the same lens model. One is now dedicated to the last Canon APSH camera, the 1D4, with a mini dome for extreme shallow water shots. I have missed a number of salmon spawning opportunities in the past because the redd (salmon nest) was too shallow. With the Nikkor joining the other two I can deploy three with the same focal length range! Already had the 10.5 and 16mm Nikkors when I got the 8-15. The 10.5 was my most used lens when I was shooting APSC (D2X). I am most curious how the Nikkor will work at 8mm for Aurora shots since it is a hair faster at f/3.5. Been waiting form the right Aurora...
  2. I have been enjoying this series. It might cost me.....
  3. I have not tried my 8-15 on my Z6 yet but I suspect the AF works fairly well as the AF in the 300PF does. These two lenses are of the E type which is the latest version of the F mount. So the main improvements from a Z mount fisheye lens might include a smaller size (smaller than the 8-15 plus FTZ) and better optical performance (maybe less of a blue circle at 8mm?). I was ready to get the new 24-200 for travel but initial reports suggest it is not much of a performer on full frame so rather disappointed. The 24-70 kit lens (an S type) is quite good so left it on the camera (with a polarizer) on my last Hawaii diving trip for topside pix (last year :-<<<, sadly will not be able to go in 2020). The planned shorter focal length macro is not listed as an S lens so I fear it might be as poor a performer as the new 24-200 which is not an S lens. I fear the non-S lenses will be substandard. Really too bad, IMHO.
  4. First, you should make sure your camera is working correctly by shooting some images outside of the housing. Make sure to also test at reasonably low light levels such as those corresponding to those pix that failed. I would shoot in single shot AF mode so that you can observe the AF points. As well, turn on the beep. You may also turn on focus priority. Are your pix still out of focus?
  5. No, if one is using full frame as the 85mm Micro Nikkor is a DX lens.
  6. Looks like a synch problem. Try using longer than 1/200 shutter speeds. Like 1/100 or 1/60.
  7. I just did a quick test - just over a second at 1/4 power (25%) and about one second at 12%. I said one thousand to do the timing. Used black Eneloops. There are 2 power settings for the aiming light.
  8. There might very well be a leak in your evacuation device. It probably has a check valve to keep the atmosphere from leaking in that leaks just a bit. I would disconnect it and close up the evac. port on the housing like you would for diving and remeasure after a day and see if the pressure goes up as you have noted. It is going up and not down. The 10 on the gauge in inches is actually -10 or about 1/3 of an atmosphere down from starting pressure. So what is left in the housing is about 2/3 of an atmosphere absolute. If it also leaks with the evac device disconnected then it will be time to consider were the leak might be in the housing starting with the main o-ring and the port o-ring -- one at a time using a process of elimination.
  9. A quick update. I got a pair of ULCS handlebar clamps to hold the fiber optic adapter close to the strobe. I got some Toslink cable. Toslink is a tad stiffer than the stock fiber optic. I tried one more time to fix the original fiber optic and failed again. Then I cut a short section of Toslink and on the first try it worked. I suspect the issue was with the fiber optic. The spot were I took the photos got no sun just a couple of weeks ago. You will note the one with a shorter fiber optic is on the left, which is the Toslink.
  10. If you still have your SLR housing you could focus with it, turn the camera off, then check the focus distance on the surface. Use that distance with your Z6. You will need to use the same dome with both housings. I tried using this pre-focus approach early on in my digital underwater photography using the 14mm MF lens - got too many OOF pix of salmon so gave up on that lens. Got the 14 AF!! The technique might work better for larger subjects like blue whales. Since you already have the lens it will not cost anything to experiment other than your time. You could write Nikon and complain about not having an FTZ that does screw-drive AF.
  11. PS. If you use a flat port it will be like a 1.33x increase in focal length so your field will be narrowed compared to a dome.
  12. Since you are using APS-C a flat port will work with these focal lengths and so be less challenging to set up. I have a 7D2 and have used the Canon 24 and 40mm pancake lenses with it when traveling but I have not used them for underwater photography. Is your query about these lenses? Since these lenses are so stubby it might be an issue properly adapting a dome port to them. Their entrance pupils might be closer to the camera compared to your 15mm lens which I am guessing is a fisheye, the Canon model? You might want to ask Ikelite about what you want and if they have specific recommendations for your lenses. You need to be more specific about your gear when you communicate with them. Other 24 and 40mm lenses are much larger than the two Canon pancakes so would take different port setups.
  13. Good question!!! It is the fiber optic cable that came with the strobe. Oskar told me: "The optical cable we are using at the moment is a multi core 613 type which has an official bending radius of 1mm." The more recent failures were not due to obvious cable breakage but much less light came out the failure end compared to the other strobe after attempting repair after the fiber optic came out of the adapter while it was in the bathtub when I rinsed the setup after my shoot. One troubleshooting step is to unplug the fiber optic cables from the strobes and look at the ends while firing the camera. I have ordered some Tos Link cable (suggested by another Wetpixel thread) as the original cable is getting short.
  14. The angle of a given lens, fisheye or not, should be the same behind a dome port as shooting the lens normally (in air). To work properly the dome must be properly configured to the lens and the lens must be able to focus on the virtual image generated by the dome. This is NOT like a flat port. See: https://www.scubageek.com/articles/wwwdome.html
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