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Tom_Kline

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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. I got some satisfactory shots with it. Keep in mind I was using film so no pixel peeping like with digital today. It did not get used as much as I would have liked due its large size - I recall doing just one plane trip with it. You might get lucky and find one for not much money but keep in mind that only few were made. A really good price would be a rare find. I do recall that it took a while to offload mine so they may not sell all that well. For the money the Nauticam EMWL is a better idea and there is a 100 degree objective for it so you have the same angle of view as the 18. At this time the amount of distortion is unknown...
  2. I concur with Alex's statement. I bought the RS18 when it came out as a pre-order (only option as only a few were going to get made) and was disappointed when it arrived as it was much larger than the prototype picture that was sent to me. The front element looked like a simple 8" (20cm) dome port. As this was the only way to get a 100 degree non-fisheye image on an RS it made sense to keep. I recall the cost as being over 3 grand in 1990s money so figuring inflation was about the same cost as the WACP-2 is today. After moving to digital I bought the Nikkor 18mm AF-D lens and made careful eyeball comparisons of the two lenses then sold the RS18 (as part of a gear dump along with two RS bodies, the 20-35 and 13). To me the front and back of the RS18 lens (ignoring the dome) looked identical to that of the 18 AF-D. IMHO it only makes sense to own the RS18 for shooting on an RS camera. There are better and less expensive solutions for other applications.
  3. Other than the new E lenses (only a few lenses and that includes the 8-15mm) and lenses with manual and pre-set apertures, all Nikkors have a spring loaded lever aperture control in the lense - the lens is stopped down with no pressure on the lever. I believe (have not seen them all!!) all Nikon SLR cameras (D and film) have an actuation lever inside the body that mates with this to stop down the lens. The "auto" that is part of the lens description (in the text on the lenses) of older lenses refers to this as the automatic diaphragm was a 1950s innovation that helped propel SLRs to their dominance. Similarly they marked lenses with early coating and multi-coating with a C (when these techs were still new). The newer coating tech has new labels such as N for nano-coating. Nikon has had good support for legacy products until now. This has meant they have had to support the earlier AF in newer bodies. To cut costs the bottom end of the camera line omits legacy AF support as do the new Zs thus far. If you really, really want manual focus as well as aperture control, the older manual lenses with helical focusing rings and aperture rings are probably your best bet. You will need a gear for each and a housing and/or lens port to mate with these gears. This may require some customization.
  4. Short answer to your first and second question is no. The third question: possibly. Firstly the RS lenses have a double mount. The inner mount is almost the same as the F mount (hence the no). The outer mount is the waterproof part. The lenses came out in the 1990s so have the Nikon tech of that era which means screw-drive AF. The lenses do not have an aperture ring so are somewhat like the more recent lenses. The 10.5mm DX fisheye lense is somewhat similar as it has screw AF and no aperture ring. From what I have gathered (far from the center of things) there are at least three types of "conversions": Type 1. The change is made to the inside the lens (electronics) so that it can communicate with a DSLR and thus function. The outer mount is adapted to specific housings with an adapter ring. This is how the Nju folks do it: http://njusystem.com/category/blog/products/ Type 2. The inner lens components are removed from the RS lens leaving a lens unit without its front element that is fitted into a new shell so the lens resembles an ordinary camera lens. As well the electronics are modified. The front RS lens element is installed into a dedicated lens port. This is how Seacam does it. https://wetpixel.com/articles/seacam-reinvents-the-nikonos-rs-13mm Type 1 and 2 conversions require using a camera that supports screw-drive AF. Not all Nikon cameras do. A third type is possible... Type 3. Leave the RS lenses as is and instead build a surrogate of the RS camera body that would control both the focus and aperture. The RS camera body has a complex switch that allows manual focusing via the focusing motor (in the body as all screw-drive AF bodies) so there is no absolute need to interface Nikon AF with that of another company. A hypothetical surrogate could have a switch (and motor) that functions similarly -- push left or right to focus in one direction or the other. The more the switch is pushed in either direction the faster the focus. Aperture control is a simple knob with reciprocal aperture values on it like a shutter speed knob on cameras. There are RS lens adapters for motion picture camera housings that may function like part or all of type 3 but as I have not seen one in person I do not know for sure how they work. They are not cheap. But they suggest this is feasible.
  5. The i button does not appear to be doing anything - I was looking for more info on individual pix like a caption. The site appears to display file names. I am re-doing my site as well. Reorganized the section that has scuba diving pix (as opposed to non diving underwater and topside salmon shots) to something more biological so the galleries depicting other things got booted into a travel section. However I was able to merge similar warm and cold water subjects like jellies into one gallery. How to organize ones website is not without its challenges!
  6. A book has been published that should be on the bookshelves of all those interested in blackwater photography. It is just out and available at a discount here: https://mutualpublishing.com/product/blackwater-diving/ I got my copy yesterday and am quite impressed with it thus far. It is mostly an identification book - the background material ends on p. 13. Here are a couple of example pages. Many of the organisms illustrated are widely distributed so will be of interest to more than just those doing blackwater dives in Hawaii. Yes that is snow in the background.
  7. There is a remote control made by Nikon with a switch in it for long exposures. One option would be to make a housing for this remote that you would connect via a bulkhead to the cameras. Alternatively you could build a remote control that does the same thing using the type of switch used for lamps (the things you have at home such as table lamps). This type of switch is pushed once to close the circuit and a second time to open the circuit. It could go on the end of a cable that is cabled to a bulkhead or possibly built into the housing by repurpusing an existing but unused lead-in in your housing - you need to have the space inside the housing to fit the switch without impacting camera functions. You would need a remote cord plugged into the camera inside the housing that would connect to the bulkhead (or the switch) on the inside. Nikon (as well as Canon) remote cords have three wires - one is a common (#1). One of the others, call it #2, is for waking up the camera and starting the autofocus. The third is for triggering the shot. It is possible to close both at the same time either mechanically with the switch (the switch needs to have connections to do this) or by connecting wire 2 and 3 together (inside the housing) so that closing the circuit with the switch connects wire 1 with 2 and 3 simultaneously. I did this with my D1X when using the Aquatica remote and set the camera to focus priority when using AF. It also works for MF.
  8. I have this housing and used it mainly during the late 80's and early 90's. It works with 80, 60 and 50mm lenses only. The domes are 8" in diameter. One could stand it up on the roll bars so it resembled R2D2 and is what my housing was nicknamed. There was a more recent housing for the later SWC models (SWC/M and later) made by Gates called the H38 that used an 8" dome. I bought one from Hasselblad USA shortly before going digital but sold it as it got little use once I went digital. There are some postings on Wetpixel showing this housing. Darkness's housing is NOT this model but the earlier blue housing.
  9. Good catch! Forgot about flashbulbs! The 38mm lens is only f/4.5 so you do not have to stop down much from maximum aperture to reach f/5.6 or f/8! You will have to do some trial and error. The bigger deal is having to estimate the focus distance so it will be a bit like shooting an old Nikonos. The H38 housing had a focusing scale on the focus knob.
  10. With the prism removed it is possible that you will be able to chimp through the viewing port.
  11. Like Adam entropy tends to take over. I have two sets of industrial shelves with plastic bins. I bought them at Sam's Club in Anchorage on a ferry trip there a few years back - store is now gone and the ferry system here has been mostly offline. If there is a Sam's in your area they are wort looking at. I have some stuff stored in Think Tank rollers (one domestic and one international) that only leave on dive travel so they still have use at home plus some spares are stored there ready to go.....
  12. Since the strobes are Seacam's they can communicate with each other with the extra wire but the camera itself has just 5 contacts. I have the C version of the 250D, nice but very heavy.
  13. The Seacam 160D can synch at 1/8000 (p.7 of the manual). This is enabled by the shutter becoming a narrow slit. I am skeptical that 3-4 flashes will do it.
  14. I know how HSS works but am rather skeptical that the strobe recycles between individual flashes within a shot, more like a small amount of the charge is depleted for each flash and the capacitor gets refilled after the frame. We are talking about tens (maybe not even tens) of micro seconds per flash. 1/1000 is one millisecond or 1000 microseconds so 1/8000 is a bit more than 100 microseconds so 10 flashes of 10ms each would just about fit. Alex mentioned in his video (months ago) that the flash tubes used in the new Retras enable this teeny weeny flashing, but I am clueless about the Seacam 160D (it is also not a full circular tube like the Retras). Is there any power control (strobe output) in HSS mode? E.g., is it set by the shutter speed alone.
  15. I am not asking about a full power dump but, e.g. 1/64, see above query from me. For example in your above pix done with the 160D you indicate that the pix were shot at f/22 or f/16. Using these small apertures may have required a higher manual power setting. Recycling (i.e. recharging the capacitor(s)) may have taken you a few seconds - you do not say. What if you had shot at f/2.8 instead? Would the recycling time have sped up say to less than one second - this would be useful to know. If the the recycling time is fixed regardless of power used then HSS may not be all that useful, IMHO. Maybe the Retras are better???? BTW I have not used HSS with my Canon version 60D but I am not expecting much with four AA batteries inside. As well I am more likely to use HSS with an RS lens (therefore N rather than C) as they seem to do much better at larger apertures. I was shooting salmon by remote control which also uses an S6 connector however only 3 wires are actually used. I know this for a fact because I installed the S6 bulkhead on the housing myself and know the 3 extra wires are dangling disconnected inside the housing. Nikon has used 5 wires since TTL flash started - I have no idea (other than possible use for the slave strobe when hooked up with a special circuit they make - see box on p.24 on the manual and other D model strobe instructions) what Seacam does with the "spare" wire of the S6. I was guessing that they could use this fact as a way of detecting brand. The instructions would be far more useful if they mentioned in the line I quoted that this is a user adjustable parameter with a page reference so that if the wrong brand is displayed one would know what to do. Also what the blazes is meant by flash type (also in the quoted line)? Maybe they mean flash mode such as TTL. Again a page reference to see where is can be changed would be very useful here.
  16. It must recycle at some point. Are you saying the strobe is dead after an HSS shot? As for blurring. I got a blurred salmon a few days ago when shooting at 1/500th - an ambient light shot
  17. I read this in the instructions: "When switching ON the unit you first see a 3 part battery symbol indicating the battery capacity status and the flash type followed by the NIKON or CANON identification." which I took to mean the strobe knew the details (identification) of the camera when it is powered up. Maybe they need better clarity. Nikon has 5 contacts in the hotshoe and so has 5 wires. Hence the Nikonos-derived N5 bulkhead designation.
  18. Could you be more specific about how much output is reduced. Also the number of flashes per charge. If one is using an ISO value in the thousands (which I regularly do) and HSS at 1/64 (or the lowest setting on the 160D) what kind of frame rate is possible and how many shots on a battery charge? For now just one flash. I would expect that ambient light would do most of the exposure. The strobe is simply to fill in a bit of the shadow which might include the whitish bottom half of a shark (so reflective).
  19. There just one model of the Seaflash 160D and it does both N or C unlike previous Seacam D flashes - I know as I have both N and C versions of the 150D. Apparently the strobe is "smart" enough to be able to detect which brand of camera it is attached to. One hint may be due to N using 5 wires whereas C uses 6.
  20. I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
  21. I guess the black one was added. Do you have a volt-ohm meter aka multimeter? You can use one to test the conductivity between the plugs and bulkheads.
  22. The two housing rear sections shared the same front section. He simply has to replace the standard flat port with the correction port - this may already be done. There is another lens that goes on the front of the Biogon lens of the SWC. The two (port and this other lens) correction lenses work as a unit.
  23. I was wondering about this. The prism fitting on the 500C is much longer than the top of a SWC.
  24. Redundancy. The Hasselblad lenses that are needed are the ones with Compur shutters in the lens. There is a PC post on the lens to plug the wire into. To use two strobes one will need a Y type synch cord - two strobes plugged into one fitting. There are both cabled (wired) as well as fiber optic cords of the Y type. The Sea and Sea model is no longer made but can be found on the auction site and maybe here.
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