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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. This should be easy to do since the sensor plane is very close to the lens mount - a lot of room to fit an adapter. However if a housing will fit the FTZ inside the housing it may not be so easy. So a better housing design to use Nikonos lenses would fit the FTZ within a port extension. This would require longer gears for zooming and or focusing (to engage within the housing) so old ones may not work. Just for grins I am attaching an underwater shot done with the Z6 but without a housing! I was testing out the Laowa macro probe that is waterproof about halfway along its length. In a nearby stream where salmon spawn (not this time of year!).
  2. The distance from the adapted port mount to the sensor plane (or other reference plane on the camera body), or registration distance, would have to be the same as a Seacam housing. This is not seemingly likely as this is not claimed in the adapter description: https://www.nauticam.com/collections/port-adapters/products/adaptor-for-seacam-ports-custom-part Note that there is a slight port extension to the adapter The native Nauticam port mount registration distance would have to be less than that of Seacam by this amount of port extension for it to work as you want. It may be possible for Seacam to supply the port part with a Nauticam mount instead of Seacam.
  3. Best wishes to the Wetpixel community this Christmas 2018! Tom
  4. Interesting question! I have not tried a polarizer under water but am curious as to the results. Light under water gets scattered quite a bit so may not be as polarized as above water. The main issue might be adjusting the angle of polarization of the filter. This may be easier to do with the EF lens adapter for filters that Canon is releasing for the RF and may be the most compelling reason to buy an RF! At this point I have not but do have a Z6. RF housings will need to have the facility to adjust the filter in the adapter. The control is more like a command dial (on a camera), not like an aperture or zoom ring, so a simple ring will not work.
  5. You might want to look into S6 connectors as the cables are double ended (same connector on each end). S6 cables and bulkheads, however, are expensive. You might be wondering about something similar with the other types?? One solution would be to buy two Ike extension cables and cut the ends off you do not want (female - like the bulkheads) then combine the two remaining parts yielding you an extension cord with the connectors you want (male) and getting an almost twice as long cord. You would have to use Ike bulkheads. There are kits available for making a waterproof wire to wire junction or you could fake one. First make a VERY secure soldered connection which you would encase in epoxy using a mold of your making. PS. I have not actually seen one but Ike makes synch cords to use their strobes with their housings so would be Ike, maybe same sex, on both ends.
  6. Yes it is possible to buy bulkheads and install them yourself. I have done so for my Seacam housings to install remote control. I bought my bulkheads from the US distributor. You may be able to do so for your housings as well. You need to be aware of the specifics needed for your housings. There are different sized holes and threading. Seacam uses metric sizes for both. Others may use inch based sizes. Also, one can get bulkheads for S6, Nikonos (N5, maybe even N3), Ikelite, or EO (wet connector). EO bulkheads are not very common these days but once were the standard. There are a few other types of bulkheads as well such as the one Hasselblad used in their blue housings from the 70s. Pentax used a Nikonos II bulkhead in their 6x7 housing.
  7. I am curious how the well the R will work housed. Many camera controls seem to require one to swipe or touch the monitor screen to make a change on the R. I have the original Eos M that is very much like this. It took me a while to figure out how to change ISO for example. One has to be in shooting mode (touch the shutter release). On the plus side one may be able to use the lens control ring to make one adjustment (at a time). This will require a control gear (up to three for one lens - zoom, focus, and control ring). Nikon has just 2 thus far. I am curious how the dedicated mirrorless lenses work behind a dome port especially as you have given the thumbs up on some of your Sony lens reviews, Phil. Tom
  8. Based on my recent experience it is best to post square images. Recompose them yourself or you may see undesirable results. If one clicks on an image one will see the image without cropping but this requires a bit of effort (lots of clicking). It is much easier to scope out what is there by looking at pix in the default grid. I am using the Lightroom app mentioned back a bit in this thread. No major issues with workflow. However, one needs to delete an image and then undo the deletion and re-upload to see edits. Not quite as smooth as other LR apps.
  9. I use both systems. The main reason being historical. Nikon had the early advantage because of the Nikonos line and its legacy. The standard bulkhead is still Nikonos. It (the final iteration) was designed for film TLL. UW strobes also came with TTL that worked directly on Nikon film cameras. Canon preceded Nikon with full frame (FF), 24x36mm, sized sensors. The first 2 models were very expensive (US 8K each), then the 5D came out... Finally Nikon came out with FF for their 3rd generation dSLRs, the D3 series. As well there have been differences in their lens lineups important for UW. Nikon had an APSC fisheye lens (10.5mm) whereas Canon did not, not even an APSH one. Finally, they came out with their 8-15mm that provides a fisheye for all 3 formats (FF, APSC and APSH). It has only been in the last few years that Nikon came out with an 8-15mm. While their 16mm fisheye lens is good (I have one), it does not focus as close as is needed for some UW applications. Canon is deficient in the 60mm macro department. Their 60mm is only for APSC. If one wants to use a modified Nikonos RS lens one needs to use a Nikon body. There are pros and cons to both systems. It is nice to have some topside capability too. Canon makes two AF pancakes, a 24mm and a 40mm, that I take along with a 100-400mm zoom and a 7D2 for travel that I use alongside a Canon FF body for UW. If I travel with a Nikon (to use a Nikonos RS lens) I do not want bring the 7D2 since the lenses are not interchangeable. So on my last trip I brought along a second D3X body for topside shots (maybe not the best for this). I plan on using a Z6 for this in the future. However, Nikon does not make any pancake AF lenses. Pancake lenses are good when one is space limited. I use FF for UW because of high ISO ability for shooting in home waters, Alaska, where it is darker than in the tropics. I use the big bodies because of the big batteries because of the cold temperatures. Your needs may be different. Now that things are moving mirrorless.....
  10. Here is a good beginner tutorial: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/lighting/i-want-to-add-a-strobe-to-my-housing-what-arms-do-i-need
  11. I suspect we will soon see mirrorless/live view AF out-performing conventional AF. Already it is more accurate. As well, there is greater coverage across the format for full frame, more sophisticated AF, and more AF points. These are probably inter-related. Faster CPUs probably help here. We will probably will see dedicated CPUs for focusing in upcoming pro models, maybe even the replacements for the D5 and 1Dx2, to speed things up even further. A big limitation in the past has been viewing - hard to see the back screen in daylight among other issues. EVF to the rescue. Lag seems to be a non-issue now and resolution is excellent based on what I hear (will see as I have a Z6 on order). Low light ability may soon or already have exceed what conventional AF can as well.
  12. The synchronization speed is determined by the camera's shutter not the strobe. This speed is the highest shutter speed where the all of the shutter is open at the same time. Above this speed the shutter works as a moving slit so that part of the image on the sensor plane will be blocked by the shutter when the strobe fires. It is possible to use speeds above synch speed using a special mode that is only available with dedicated strobes, e.g. Canon strobe with a Canon camera. There are limitations here - consult your camera's instruction manual.
  13. Here is some theory: https://www.scubageek.com/articles/wwwdome.html Focusing distance of a diopter lens (if in proper diopter units) = 1/diopter in meters. So a +2 lens focuses at 1/2 meter and a +3 at 1/3 meter with the prime lens set at infinity. So one of these will work with most domes. Try a +2 first but if you cannot focus close enough to your underwater subject try a +3.
  14. The main problem with your idea is that you will be able to either focus on what is above water or what is under water at one time unless you use a split diopter close-up lens (attached to front of 50mm lens). Keep in mind that the virtual image of the underwater portion of your picture is on the order of 0.3m from the image (sensor or film) plane. Focusing on the virtual image and what is above water at the same time is what is challenging to do without a fisheye lens.
  15. I know of at least one well know bw photographer that used a 60mm with APS-C for stills. I have used from 50 to 100mm with full frame DSLRs for my bw shots. You can see the lens used in the exif data on my website pix by clicking on the tiny dot with the i in it next to the buy button (this is Smugmug styling). These bw shots are mostly in my invertebrate gallery (under Aloha!) but there are a few in the fish portrait gallery as well. The main downside of the 100mm lens IMHO is when you get a large creature like a big jelly - one of the vids above showed a large ctenophore in front of a diver that I have seen as well - I ended up just getting close-ups of part of it using a 100mm. Most of the stuff is much smaller, e.g., 1 to 2 cm length or diameter. One can use either lens (normal or 100). And there is smaller still - the dots you see moving around in the vids: copepods and amphipods. On my most recent HI trip I used a D3X with a 60mm AFS lens (Canon does not make a counterpart as their 50 is rather old and does not allow switching between MF and AF within one dive which is one reason I favored the 100 with C). Even with the 60 I was not able to get an entire box jellyfish in the pic (see my gallery header shot). Keep in mind I was shooting stills and using an OVF. Shooting vids with a back screen is going to be a different experience. The vids I have seen being shot were with rather small housings or a Gopro so short focal lengths were used (i.e. small format cameras).
  16. You realize that the end of this thing is submersible? So it can be used for shallow water underwater shots - camera and the part from USB connector (on side of unit) to the camera mount stays dry.
  17. It would be cool if something develops but I am not holding my breath! (not supposed anyway, right?)
  18. The way blackwater dives are done at Kona, Hawaii there are no lights other than the ones held by the divers and a deck light used for gearing up (this may get turned off when everyone is in the water but the captain). Lights are used, however, for other blackwater operations - maybe the top source of light in some of the vids linked above. Diver held lights are enough to attract squid and dolphins feeding on the squid on some dives from my experience. Potentially sharks too but I have yet to see one. I have seen vids being done on a few of the bw dives I have been on in Kona - the lights were attached to brackets in the usual way, e.g. Ultralight arms and trays. I have also seen a Gopro used with lighting provided by a handheld light (bright one provided by the boat - which I always refuse as all mine are attached to the housing but I am only doing stills).
  19. The FTZ does NOT support screw-drive type AF. It might be possible for someone to develop one that does, either Nikon or a 3rd party. However, it might turn out that the communications protocols in the new Z cameras will not allow this, e.g., adapted lens AF is too slow (such as changing focusing direction). But..... there is another alternative that seems more interesting to me. That would be to develop an RSTZ adapter for manual-focusing-only with Nikonos RS lenses like done on the RS camera bodies. This would require an adapter with a the screw drive in it but instead of communicating with the Z camera body, it would communicate with an RS analog control switch on the housing (e.g., with a cable)!!! If I recall correctly the RS manual focusing switch controlled focusing speed as well as direction. Therefore a functional analog (to the RS) would be preferred. This hypothetical RSTZ adapter would obviously have to be paired with a housing that came with this switch.
  20. Retra has electronics in the strobe to do the TTL. Contact Retra for the details as there is a firmware updates in progress that I suspect pertains to TTL. Also see earlier posts in this thread as a few folks have already used TTL and they mention hardware used.
  21. See this page: https://www.retra-uwt.com/pages/retra-flash Note this towards the bottom of the bullet points: Inon and Sea&Sea dual compatible optical connector Evidently these connectors work but I have zero experience with them. I prefer the simplicity of wires. However, wired synch cables will eventually fail but there is a lot of variability as to how long they last in my experience. I have or had some rather old cords that worked last time I used them - they are from the 80's!
  22. For what it is worth, Seacam recommends a 20mm extension for both the Canon and Nikon 8-15mm lenses with their dome ports. However, when the C lens came out and these recommendations were not yet out, I tried a range of extensions and got OK results with the 25 and 30mm as well if I recall correctly (tried it with their Superdome which is less than a hemisphere like a lot of other similar domes). Longer extension than what is used with a hemisphere would thus seem better. I suspect the glass part in all of them comes from the same source - how many companies can make them? So results should be comparable. I did not do critical tests - mainly looked out for vignetting from the shade and if my subjects were sharp - I was doing actual shoots of salmon as it was that time of year. Since then I have use the 8-15 C lens much more with their smaller Wideport due to stream depth limitations. I will likely do the same for the N version that is now in my arsenal.
  23. Yes, but your housing must be configured for fiber optics. With wires there is only basic old-fashioned flash synch which is what I am using with my Seacams.
  24. I used this lens a while back but on the DX format. Sold it before getting an FX camera. I used it mainly with a WP and a diopter to allow closer focusing. From some old (> 10 years old) Seacam data: Harald (from price list) has the 18D and SD used with no PVL whereas Stephen Frink (from his website) shows a PVL25. This may have been before the PVL20 came out. Reading this info off my old computer (not the one being used right now). ps. I had this lens at the same time that I had the RS 18mm lens. Looking at both at both ends (front and back) they appeared identical to me. I was not happy about this (the RS lens) as I was expecting a relatively compact water contact optic rather than what I got, which was a dedicated 8" hemispherical port and topside lens. It was OK on film. I used it for this shot: https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-Topic/Egg-to-smolt/i-mMfcgzP/A
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