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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. Hard to tell from your vid. See this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXfoFx-MY6s If they are large they are more likely to be one of these. As suggested by this vid there is a lot of range in size. Many of the adults are quite large. This might be useful: http://lifeinfreshwater.net/dragonfly-nymphs-odonata-anisoptera/ and this: https://www.nature.nps.gov/air/Studies/air_toxics/dragonfly/docs/DragonflyLarvaeFlashcards_june-2014.pdf This last one has nice pix and a key but is US-centric. Maybe finding something in German, French or Italian might get you closer
  2. Very impressive! I have recently joined instagram so have just a few pix thus far. Far more on my website. Tom https://www.instagram.com/salmonographer/
  3. Since I live in Alaska you could say I take pix in cold water. My most used lenses for AK shooting are fisheyes. I used the Nikon 10.5mm lens the most with the DX format. The 14mm (old D lens) was the second-most used lens in DX. So another yes for wide angle shooting! Here there is quite a bit of temporal and spatial variability to visibility. The best vis occurs when it is below freezing so I get a lot of my best shots of salmon late in the year. But if it should rain (we get lots during the fall-winter as well as rest of the year) the vis will go down rather quickly.
  4. On my most recent trip to HI (two of the islands) via Portland and San Diego on the outbound I used a TT roller for most of the UW camera parts which made it quite heavy (heavier than my two check-ins - the weight was due strobe arms, connectors, batteries as well as the UW strobes, housing, and ports) but I was able to place it in the overhead of 737s on all my flights (one was a 717 - HI inter-island). I come up with 9 flights total. However I did NOT take it on the day-boats which have limited bag space. A few of the day trips were on 28' boats - they do not even want scuba gear bags on those - but I was able to back my rental car right up to the boat while it was on a trailer to on- and off-load (I bring all my gear save tanks and lead). I put the complete UW setup into a soft bag (which flew inside a larger bag) which fit under the seats when empty (during dives). I also had a small backpack for my 15" laptop, second body and a few lenses as carry-on. I brought it on the day boats for topside pix, some backups, and spare batteries- it went on top of the camera table when available. Otherwise it went into the focsle when I was not using it.
  5. I have not used the 5D2 but I have used a few of the older tech AF DSLRs. I would stick with just the center point and forget tracking as that can move the AF point to one of the weaker AF points which might be especially bad given that the lens has an f/4 maximum aperture. Just try and keep the camera pointed at the subject with it on the center point. I have not used focus locking with the separate button (also can lock exposure) but others have. If I want the AF to stay locked I use single-shot AF and not continuous servo AF. It will stop AFing once the beep goes off in single shot. Good idea to do some pool testing!
  6. Yes, the shade will be seen in 8mm pix. At 8mm the angle of view is almost 180 degrees all the way around the image and not just at the diagonals as at 15mm. Find out if the shade can be removed - many can.
  7. You can use a large dome with the 8-15 fisheye. In fact the results will be better than with a smaller dome. Even with just 12 Mp and the smaller DX format I got better results (as in sharp all the way to the edges of the frame) with a superdome compared to all the smaller ones. Tom Watch this video: http://wetpixel.com/articles/domes-without-the-drone
  8. Adam has moved the test article to the front page: http://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nikon-fx-wide-angle-lenses Well timed as many new D850 owners have been asking wide angle questions. It would be interesting to compare these old results with the images done with the Sea&Sea correction lens which produces noticeable improvements at the 16mm focal length with 16-35mm zoom lenses on full frame using a superdome (Seacam). There is still a tiny amount of field curvature evident for subjects at about 1-2 meter. For example in this shot https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-Topic/Signaling/i-j5NbFtQ/AI can see that the gravel up and downstream of the salmon is slightly soft when pixel peeping. The gravel in the background as well as a juvenile Coho are sharp other than motion blur. Shot with 16-35 at 16 on Nikon D3X with S&S lens.
  9. I had not noticed this until this thread appeared in 'new content' which is what I have bookmarked to get to WP. It looks like commercial ads are gone????
  10. Interesting. I found more facts about Lake Van here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Van And the salinity here: https://www.google.com/search?q=lake+van+turkey+salinity&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1 The table says 23 parts per thousand so not as salty as the main oceans: 32-35 parts per thousand
  11. Interesting. The relationship between salinity, temperature and water density is complicated as shown in this figure. The curved lines are lines of equal density, a.k.a. isopycnals. And this is for seawater with fixed ratios of dissolved substances. https://glossary.periodni.com/glossary.php?en=T-S+diagram
  12. Very interesting! Is the blurry water due to temperature or dissolved substances (salinity) or both? Since it appears to be going up it could be because this water is less dense which could be due to temperature (warmer) or less dissolved stuff (fresher). However if it is warm enough the water could have a higher salinity and be buoyant.
  13. Read this: http://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nikon-d850-and-nauticam-na-d850-by-jack-connick
  14. I bought this from nickga69: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62182&hl=backscatter It was just as described. Nick was great to work with. I would buy from him again. Thank you! Tom
  15. OK I caved. Just set up an account even without a functioning smartphone. Populated with a few snaps using LR. It would not take my graphic watermark so resorted to a text based one. https://www.instagram.com/salmonographer/
  16. Seacam did not say what caused the failures. Both were repaired under warranty.
  17. I do not have the 100D but do have the other D models. I have used the 150Ds the most - mine are in both Canon and Nikon flavors but just one of each. I have used just one strobe with diffuser for many of my shots with no problem. Fisheye lenses used the most. Do not see a problem with the 100D other than that the LED display was left out and this is one of the nicest features of the 150D IMHO.
  18. The distance to the dome I was referring to is the subject to dome distance. The virtual image surface shape is a function of focused distance, only spherical at infinity. This is probably why small domes work for macro subjects where the dome is very close to the subject so the virtual image is flatter. Note that this thread is > 3 years old whereas FE question is new.
  19. The SD will likely be better and you will not need an extension ring.
  20. I have used the various Seacam dome ports with fisheye lenses, all but the relatively new CP. I have been too chicken or just did not want to waste a shooting opportunity to use the FMP on FF. I currently have my FMP dedicated to to my 1D3-4 housing with a 1D4 in it which is an APSH camera. This to use where it is too shallow to use the WP. In my experience the SD gives the best fisheye results even with just a lousy 12 MP on APSC as in D2X with 10.5 mm lens. I have found the WP to be OK on FF with the 16/2.8 Nikkor fisheye. Here is an example-- https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-species-galleries/Dolly-Varden-Charr/i-bm2qCBZ/A You have a more demanding scenario with the D800 as I used a D3X for the shot.
  21. Seacam sells an adapter that allows one to attach N5 cords to an S6 housing bulkhead. There is a picture of it here-- http://www.seacam.com/en/products/accessories/s6-system It is the fourth picture.
  22. Nice article! On my last trip to HI (2018) I tried low rather than high ISO (see article) and had some success. Recent shots at the the top (gallery is in reverse chrono order) of the gallery with the DM shot mentioned above. https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-Invertebrates/ Low ISO allowed me to do more vigorous PP without noise. FYI EXIF data for my shots are in the tiny dot with the "i" in it to the left of the buy button (Smugmug interface). As well my apertures were not as small as suggested. f/14 was OK for me DOF-wise. Too small an aperture like those suggested can result in a loss of resolution. I was using 8 AA batteries with each of my Retra strobes so did not have to wait for recycling (issue brought up in article).
  23. Be prepared to shoot very small creatures. I took this shot several years ago of the DM pointing out a comb jelly: https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-Invertebrates/i-gsmF4NM/A You will need a good focusing light - the brighter the better! I bring along a narrow beam light as well to search for incoming things. Make sure you have a tether for your camera system. I have a lot of examples of inverts in the same gallery as the link above. As well, there can be larval fishes - I have shots of them in this gallery: https://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Fish-Portraits/ While not transparent like the jellies, some can move rather fast make focusing challenging as well.
  24. I too am a long time LR user, since version one. I do not think there are any other programs currently doing digital asset management (DAM) to the degree that LR does. I probably spend more time doing DAM work than post-processing; entering keywords, titles, captions etc. This may not be important in the beginning but once you have a large number of images, e.g. I have about 1/2 million images in my LR library, it is indispensable. It is a very good idea to work on DAM from the beginning! Do you know about Creative Live? https://www.creativelive.com/ They are currently doing a LR boot camp. The basic stuff was last week. There are 3 weeks to go including this week that are more advanced but there is some re-capping of earlier material as well. It might be well worth your time, about an hour or so each work day to watch these. Each day's lesson gets repeated until the start of next day's lesson to accommodate time zones around the planet. It is free during the live broadcast (next three weeks). The previous week's material is presented again on the weekend. I have been watching it and have learned new stuff even though I am an old hack at it. For example, I did not know about customizing the bottoms of the side panels - I now have my logo there. I do not agree 100% with the way the presenter, Ben Willmore, uses LR, such as how he sets up his folders. This is largely due to some of the peculiarities of the way I work. Nevertheless it is a very useful class to watch and learn new stuff.
  25. Just posted 10 shots done with Retras on my recent trip to Hawaii on my website here: http://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Hawaiian-Invertebrates/ The first 3 are from Maui and were shot with the RS20-35 lens modded by Seacam. I used the shorter protection ring for these. The next 7 are from the Big Island and were shot with the 60mm AFS Micro Nikkor. I used the longer macro protection ring for these. I used the battery extension for all pix. I found the extension provided a convenient way to grasp the strobes to aim them by feel (i.e., ascertain optical axis).
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