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Tom_Kline

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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. I have the same problem as well when shooting salmon in streams using ambient light. There is a fair amount of drifting debris. Bubbles can be a problem (as just suggested) as well. Shooting with a fisheye lens at point blank range helps to minimize the problem. As well, it is best to avoid shooting into the light. Sometimes one does not much of a choice other than not shooting at all. Check out this shot: http://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-species-galleries/Chum-Salmon/i-9CHRBCD/A (easier for me to find image on my site). Note the light blotches in the water column. I see a dark one too (left side), probably a twig. Not too bad backscatterwise at the spawners that were real close. I angled the camera to avoid shooting into the sun - this gave the reverse perspective from many of my other shots - but easy to see the eggs emerging from the female from this angle! A downside is that the housing cast a shadow on the bottom (shot taken less than 2 hours from true noon).
  2. You should be able to shoot an 8"/20cm long subject using 100mm on FF if the vis is reasonable. I would not even bother with the Canon 50 1.4 for underwater work. I have used the 50 Canon macro which is OK except for its stone age AF.
  3. Elements refers to the number of glass elements or actual lenses (100% glass) making up the complex lens (multiple lenses, metal, etc.). Since lens elements are frequently glued together, a group of elements glued together is referred to as a group. For example a simple achromat lens can consist of two elements in one group - a number of long focus lenses made in the past were of this design such as the 400 and 560mm f/6.8 Telyts made by Leitz (company making Leicas before the name was changed).
  4. It sounds like you have solved your problem. BTW there have been issues with your strobe model that have been addressed by a new J version. But what was fixed with the J version may not be be related to your issues.
  5. From this it sounds like the LED trigger is not working correctly for your strobe. It also suggests that the FO may be OK. Issues with aligning the LED trigger with the FO? Do you know the LED is even working - maybe it is dead or simply not responding to the camera?
  6. Your problem may be in the housing (trigger part) or fiber optic connection and not with the strobes. A strobe has to be able to see the triggering light coming through the fiber optic so if the FO is not just right or the amount of light generated by the trigger is not enough your flash will not go off. This assumes that the strobe is set up correctly to respond to the triggering light. I have another model S&S strobe - one has to have it in the correct mode to operate as desired - slave, cable synch, etc.
  7. Maybe this one? http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60524
  8. Bought a Seacam port from Brandon Cole from this ad: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61266&hl= It was sent promptly and arrived in beautiful condition. I am a repeat customer and would buy from Brandon again.
  9. Factory installed plugs should be OK if left alone. For example, I have never touched the plugs in my older Seacam housings that were originally intended for a "pilot" light switch. Some are > 10 years old. More recent housings use this same hole for the lens release. Keep in mind that there may be more than one potential leakage pathway in a bulkhead whereas a plug has just one O-ring.
  10. Not familiar with the Technics units but there are a number of TTL converters out there, including discontinued ones. Many have been discussed here on Wetpixel over the years. I believe most of these are for converting from Nikonos TTL to digital camera TTL.
  11. The RETRA strobes will not be able to do any sort of wired TTL. There are just TWO contacts in the wired bulkhead. They are for basic flash synchronization, nothing more. There is thus no Nikonos film style TTL as found in older strobes. Therefore the various converters for using Nikonos TTL will NOT give you TTL!!!
  12. Your parrotfish looks like one of these http://www.salmonography.com/Aloha/Fish-Portraits/i-rs4wqN5/A and http://www.salmonography.com/keyword/Calotomus%20carolinus/i-wP6M3Ms/A from my homepage, Stareye Parrotfish taken in Hawaii.
  13. These folks disagree with you: https://www.aflglobal.com/Products/Test-and-Inspection/Fiber-Optic-Cleaning/Kimwipes.aspx Do you have a citable source to back up your statement?
  14. See this on the front page: http://wetpixel.com/articles/full-details-of-the-inon-z330-strobe-announced However, I did not see the energy output: Watt-Seconds or Joules
  15. I know what you mean since I live in bush Alaska. As for general underwater photo gear I have bought from Reef- http://reefphoto.com/shop/as well as Backscatter and Bluewater. Of the three Backscatter is the only one I have seen in person having been to Monterey, CA a few times over the years. I also spent quite a bit at Seacam USA aka Stephen Frink. I have had great support from all four.
  16. I stop down a fair amount - more now that I am shooting with higher ISO capability. I have a Seacam 4" dome but use it these days with a 1D4. I have been too chicken to shoot it with FF, ROTFL! Here is shot from this year: http://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-Topic/Spawning-Act/i-5sdnkC5/A Looks like I used f/14 (with the Wideport) and ISO 6400 (reading the exif data off my website) - this is a natural light shot with direct sunlight on the fish. It was 2.5 hours after mid-day.
  17. First, I recommend watching this video: To do CFW with the Canon 8-15mm at 15mm on FF I use a smallish wide-angle port (Seacam "wideport") that has a radius of curvature that is greater than typical of microdomes (approximately 2'' (50mm) ).
  18. Nice report. Batteries are wired in series so the voltages can add up. Just remember that negative out (what you see with the battery in place) in the first (left) position and alternate from there. Battery level indication is what makes the strobes professional grade IMHO. Seacam left this out of their 60D strobes which is a very sad omission. Tom
  19. Sasha, glad you found it useful. Sorry that it took a while. I have found the TTL useful but once I get more familiar with the strobes I will probably start using them more in manual mode especially when the strobe is very close to me as well as the fish like in the last setup shot. My main disappointment with the 60D is the loss of battery management found in the 250D and 150D. This includes the battery level in 5 steps when the strobe is turned on as well as visible and audio alarms as the batteries run down. Nice to know that the batteries (battery pack) will need to be exchanged soon. Warning is better than sudden death. With a setup like that shown in the last pic it is possible to swap out batteries without removing the camera from the stream. I can manage this process better (pick a good time) with the warnings. Looks like Adam will have a nice strobe comparison before too long. Not much of anything on the J version of the S&S strobe to answer your original question. Tom
  20. Now for some shots with the second one that failed. #1 was with Seacam at the time. One shot is from a stained system. There are beaver ponds upstream of where I took the shot (as well as downstream). The other is from the day of failure #2. Same technical issues as #1. The setup shot shows an A on the display as it was in TTL mode. The tree branches in the front of the camera in the setup shot are the same ones in the underwater shot.
  21. Now for shots done with just one strobe. These were done with the first strobe that failed. I was using just one because everything had to fit into a backpack as the location involved going upstream a bit and away from the road. The strobe failed while I was shooting the bright Coho Salmon you see in the pic. I swapped batteries as well as synch cord (I had packed in some back-ups) to no avail. Strobe powered up but did not fire. These were TTL with as well. I was able to watch the digital display while doing the first shot as I was standing fairly close. There is a one digit display showing how much of the output was used like .6 for 60% etc. This was part of the learning process for using the strobe model. The other was shot with the housing near the center of the stream where I could not see the display.
  22. Thank you for the reminder. There is a new J version of the S&S strobe to address the issues I believe. I got my 60Ds in July and got in a few shoots with both strobes for about a month when #1 failed. I went on shooting with just one strobe. #2 failed in October before #1 got back to me. I have a few shots of my set ups and results. First up is a 2-strobe shoot. It is at the confluence of small clearer water tributary with silty glacial water. The clear trib goes through these culverts first. People often stand on them to go fishing here for charr. I used TTL with flash exposure compensation. This was shot into the "sun" as the camera is pointed south. The strobes provided fill flash.
  23. @ Jock. I have a similar history with four SS200s at my start with digital. Seacam 60D is the only strobe of the new models with cabled TTL in separate Nikon and Canon versions. @ Adam. Good point about the protruding dome. The Retra and Seacam 60D also have protruding domes though maybe not to the same extent. One can put on protection rings hide to enable placing the strobes face down on a table to work on them. I just did this with one of my Retras as I had to swap out the wired bulkhead - this was very easy to do. I left these rings off in the pix. I used the groove in the Paterson developing tray you see in the pix to help with balancing the strobes when placed dome down. It look as if your plate will be full comparing these new strobes!
  24. Adam, Were the histograms for all your shots identical? When I have done such a test the first shot was brighter than the rest. T
  25. I took some pix to address your question. The Inon Z220 shown in the pix is the model that preceded the 240 and now 330 is the same form factor as the newer models. The Seacam 60D also shown is another new strobe for 2017. Maybe we should call 2017 the year of the underwater strobe! As well, there is a new J version of the Sea and Sea AA battery model - I keep wanting to call it R2D2 but that is not the correct name. All these new strobes use AA batteries. We just got a foot or so of rain (with storm and gale force winds) so the snow is all but gone (why not in pix) - air temp right now is 8C.
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