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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. I attach focusing lights to the sides of my ULCS arms by mounting a simple ballhead to the arm while using a large washer for the bolt. The bolt runs through the latticework of the ULCS arms. I found this jpeg on my HD from a couple years ago. It shows my gear after arriving at one of my salmon sites but after putting on my waders (topside shoes in pic). The rig closest to the back of my SUV has a light (Fisheye light) on one of the balls while the other has a Seacam clamp on it but no light. You can see the large washer from the side on the unused side. A similar arrangement would likely also work with Keldans equipped with a standard ball fitting.
  2. Ditto here!!! And Aloha! - I am currently right next door on the Big Island.
  3. Keep in mind that the choice is for the strobe bulkhead. One can get cables to N5 (housing bulkhead) from any of the listed bulkheads. I assume the Nikonos bulkhead is for use with Nikonos cables (those made by Nikon) so are a bit defunct. Both Inon and Sea&Sea use the S&S cables making them the most widely used. Number 2 is probably S6 but mainly for Eurostrobes. However Ike is probably more common in N. America. Your choice will dictate which brand cable you will be buying.
  4. I have two on order as well. Hope they arrive before the end of this year's salmon spawning season. Looks like they will be much better as a single strobe positioned at 12 o'clock for fisheye lens shots (SOP for me) compared to the Inons. I will report back to this thread.
  5. Yikes!!! Is there anyway you can retrofit to old fashioned cables? Are limited to fiber optic synchronization with your underwater strobes. Update: I performed the overnight test. Left the camera with flash mounted on it (as above) all night - both left powered up and allowed to sleep on their own - both woke up on touch of the shutter button this morning.
  6. I just did a quick test by attaching my 600 strobe to my 1Dx2 camera with lens attached. Powered everything up and let the camera go to sleep. Strobe stayed on for a few minutes then went to sleep. The strobe woke up when I touched the shutter release button. I also did a test by turning off the camera power on the camera's main switch - with the camera off the flash stayed on until the flash went to sleep. From the above above I deduce that the flash goes to sleep independently from the camera so there must be some electronics in the flash unit for doing this. The flash woke up rather fast when I pushed shutter release so need to do the test for a longer period like overnight. It sounds like Nauticam needs to incorporate a flash sleep mode similar to a Canon flash. Maybe their engineers thought that 3 hours of power is enough - wrong!!
  7. OK I get it. I need to do the overnight test to see if the flash will still work if the camera is just asleep. I left cameras turned on in the camera bag while in sleep mode a few times (even for a few days) - forgetting to turn off the camera - the camera worked A-OK on waking up but I have not done this "trick" with a flash attached. Basically I like having the camera ready to shoot so I just have to touch the shutter release while swinging it up my eye to get those shots where the subject is not going to linger such as bears. If the overnight test passes - flash still works - it would mean that Nauticam has not implemented a capacity used by Canon strobes and possibly could via a firmware update.
  8. I am not familiar with the details of how a Nauticam housing works. Is this is a separate battery from the one in the camera body???? Or not???? The sleep function should preserve the battery if it is the one in the body but the sleep function is typically activated via menu in the camera. BTW a Canon flash unit attached to the camera will follow the sleep, on, or off state of the camera if I recall correctly. I do not know if there is a time limit. If the main flash capacitor is being charged while it is asleep the battery will drain - I have not tested for this.
  9. I use the sleep function to extend a camera's battery power. I have left housed cameras for hours at a time in single digit degrees C water without issues. TTL is via wired cable, however, I mainly use manual flash. I use Seacam strobes that do NOT require ANY outboard circuitry for TTL, i.e., just plain wires going from bulkhead to camera hot-shoe.
  10. Are you trying to decide which Nikonos camera to use? You should know that Nikon produced two distinctively different Nikonos 15mm lenses. The earlier model extended deep into the camera body and had a rather large external finder that attached by a C-clamp of sorts. The later model was developed for the NIV and also works with the NV, which had metering that the earlier model was not designed for optically. The newer model extends more externally from the camera mount than the old one. There was a new external finder as well - it fit into the accessory show without the need for the large clamp of the first. More recently adapters have been developed to use Nikonos lenses on some of the mirrorless camera housings. You may find some postings on this here on Wetpixel regarding this.
  11. I have been using the Canon 8-15 on full frame (it also works with APSC and APSH) since it came out. You should try and borrow a copy. My understanding is that it is superior in every way (maybe or maybe not focal length range) to the Tokina. I avoided the Tok (got the Nikon 10.5 for my Nikon APSC system instead) due to its slow maximum aperture (as this affects AF) as well as build quality issues (lens falling apart). BTW several second hand 1Dx housings have appeared for sale at bargain prices such as around 2K if I recall right.
  12. I cannot answer your questions specifically, but I can more generally. There are two main concerns for adding a camera pole: 1. How will it be attached? 2. How will the camera be triggered? There are two main ways of attaching the pole. One involves dovetailing to two attachment points such as the tops of the handles (one left, one right). One can buy a ready made camera pole like this here: http://www.cmdiffusers.com/product/cmpcam I believe this was designed for Aquatica housings as it looks like the one they announced a few years back. The other attachment method uses a center point attachment - typically a ball like those made by ULCS. I use this type with my Seacam housings. See: http://www.seacamusa.com/other-reference/seacam-polecam-instructions/ Scroll down until you see Stephen Frink holding the rig in the third vertical shot. This type can also be used on a handle to do vertical shots like so: http://www.seacamusa.com/other-reference/seacam-polecam-components/ Scroll down to the last shot. It is possible to make a cheap pole for the center variety. Just add a ULCS ball to the end of a long piece of anything handy. This will probably involve drilling a hole to fit the bolt fixing the ULCS ball. This needs to be secure for obvious reasons and more so if the water is moving as it is quite a drag (literally). I have used scrapped underwater camera trays for short camera poles (there may be a shot or two here on Wetpixel showing this). Now for triggering the camera. I am using the Seacam system which uses a 3-wire release. The trigger has two stages like the release button on SLRs. Stage 1 turns on the AF and wakes up the camera if asleep. Stage 2 triggers the shutter. I also have an Aquatica release but it only has a 2-wire release so you have to short out the wires so that the camera is always on or have the release close both circuits at the same time, which is what I did. Using focus priority helps get in-focus shots but one might miss the peak of action or not get any shot at all. One could also use manual focus but I have not found this to be a successful approach for photographing salmon. My preference is to use release priority. I used the Aquatica release when I retrofitted my Seacam Nikon D1x housing for remote control over a decade ago. There are other third part releases as well but I have not used them The Aquatica release uses Ikelite cables that are fitted to a Nikonos 5 pin bulkhead. I simply sacrificed one of the existing flash bulkheads on my D1x housing by de-soldering the wiring to the flash shoe and soldering in a Nikon remote control wire (has a plug on one end to attach to the camera) inside the housing. Seacam remotes use S6 fittings (developed by Subtronic for six wires such as Canon flashes). One needs to have an S6 bulkhead on the housing to fit the cables and thereby releases. Newer Seacam housings come with several bulkhead holes - four on my Canon 1Dx housing. I use the one that is on the top of the housing for the remote control bulkhead. I added it myself as it is easy to do plus I like having a bunch of loose cable on the inside so I can leave the camera attached when I pull the body out of the housing. This way I won't forget to re-attach it when putting the body back in! The loose cable gets "tucked in" before closing the housing - one needs to be careful not to jam any control and not block sealing the housing but it is my choice to have the spare length. This is NOT the way Seacam does it by the way. BTW I use the fourth bulkhead hole on my 1Dx housing for a Backscatter housing sucker: http://www.backscatter.com/sku/bs-alm.lasso?s2op=cn&s2=slr%20photo&s3op=cn&s3=parts%20%26%20accessories&s6op=cn&s6=photo&s13op=cn&s13=vacuum%20systems&sop=AND&sf=Price&so=Descending&ftn=youbetcha& FYI the bulkhead holes in Seacam housings are M14 (a standard metric size). So the first question for you is what are the bulkheads in your housing? You may be able to swap them out. Bulkheads are available at some underwater photo retailers. If you already have a Nikonos bulkhead installed you may be able to get by re-wiring the inside to a Nikon release and use an Aquatica release. You would have to lose flash functionality for this bulkhead. I hope this helps Tom
  13. The Photozone numerical results depend in part on the resolution of the sensor. You can see this more clearly for some of the lenses listed under Canon and Nikon where the same lens was tested with different cameras of the same sensor size. Looks at the numbers on the Y-axis of the graphs when doing the comparison - you will see the scale varies by camera model used. Photozone results are more useful IMHO for understanding how a particular lens model behaves so, for example, you could pick out optimal apertures to use for that lens.
  14. I had one of the H38s but it has been sold. Brooks probably used one the earlier SWC housings sold by Hasselblad - the '60s model was grey, the '70s model was blue. Alex Mustard has the correction lenses made for the later model which he had adapted to his Subal housing and has written on her on this website.
  15. Your pix are not too bad. I grabbed the jpegs you posted and imported them into Lightroom to do the tweaking. The second shot that you AWB got only a tint adjustment (green-magenta slider) in the way of color balance change from me so color temp may have been OK via AWB. AWB may ONLY do color temp and no tint adjustment - ask Sony not me!!
  16. It has a large diameter which makes a quick test with a rented unit not possible for many. One needs a port with a large throat diameter as well as a large radius of curvature (superdome class). That said I am very curious about its performance as well ;->>
  17. I agree with what Tim says in post (#13), however, I prefer to use a straight finder for most dives but prefer a 45 degree finder when snorkeling as they are easiest used while in a prone position. Similarly for a dedicated muck dive (just off the bottom). I have used them (45) as well for very shallow pix such as semi-submerged at the edge of a stream but it can be tricky positioning the housing so the finder can be used (dry in my case). I dug up some pix from 2011 showing this. One housing has a 45 finder on it the other the standard finder. I used the 45 finder to better aim the camera and to make sure none of the focusing points were on a nearby rock. I was just able to lie behind the camera to look through it. Actual photography was done using remote control via the cables you see in one of the pix. I was on a wider "beach" just downstream of where the cameras were to do the shooting. These finders are generally made to fit specific housings. Some such as the Seacam's are easily swapped out (think camera lenses). You will have to research your particular housing model.
  18. It would be nice to be able to actually see these pix. Getting both the air and underwater parts in focus at the same time (not using Photoshop!) is not that easy. To use longer focal length lenses one can use a split diopter lens - like a regular diopter but only covers one half of the lens so that one can focus at two distances. It is possible this is what your friend used. There is a bit of trial and error using split diopter lens with getting the subject to match the two distances. I failed the last time I tried.
  19. Getting the best fit behind a dome port is often a matter of trial and error. Maybe starting with the recommendations of the housing manufacturer and varying the amount of port extension (it helps to have several port extension tubes on hand). Most successful over-under shots have been done with fisheye lenses. I am not familiar with your gear so cannot provide more specific directions. Keep in mind that if the lens is squat very little if any port extension is needed. It is the longer zoom wide angles such as the more recent Nikon and Canon 16-35 lenses that are quite long and require a lot of port extension. The older primes used hardly any. The old Nikon 20D lens requires none (Seacam) for example.
  20. They work like dry ones except that they are placed on the outside of your housing+port hence they are wet. Because of the refractive effects of water they tend to be of greater strength than dry ones which typically screw directly onto the front of the lens. With dry diopters you may need to allow for their thickness - a little more port extension may be required - this is more critical with two-element diopters as they can be an inch or more thick. Wet diopters are used with flat ports only. Wet diopters attach in a variety of ways. Mounts are custom designed to fit the ports for which they are intended. It may not be possible to fit a given wet diopter to a given port. With some housing brands and their ports you may be SOL or restricted to those made by the housing company. There are now many on the market as well as discontinued models - you should check out various web sites. Retailer web sites are good start but a given retailer may not carry all brands.
  21. Looks like you did a pretty good job of it already with the pic your posted above. A low ISO value works for reducing ambient light thus making the background darker. Many are using snoots to focus the strobe light to a small area - there are lots of examples on Wetpixel. A fast shutter works but you will be limited to the cameras synch speed which may not be all that fast such as 1/250 sec.
  22. This is not entirely correct. The eye+brain (I include the eye because it is my understanding that some "post-processing" of the image data takes place in the retina) does some color correction even though it is incomplete. I had an experience that illustrates this: After shooting some soldierfish in a mini-cave in the side of submarine lava flow formation (Big Island) I decided to chimp to see if my flash exposure was correct as there was time to re-shoot in case I screwed up. The lava formation was large enough that I was in its shadow so the light was very blue even though it was not too deep. When I looked at the image on the camera's screen the soldierfish appeared day-glow orange. I later re-checked these images when I got topside and the orange color was normal. My eye+brain had been compensating for the rather blueish light. Recall also that when you shoot under tungsten lighting the image will be rather red unless the WB is set to tungsten. However we do not perceive all this redness with our vision. Our eye+brain is doing some color correction. quote: . Because usually and without lights we dont see reds more than the camera sees it,we dont see a white balanced image.So if its not there anyway why do we try to create it (can also use fake it) and try to give to to the audience, whatever that audience is, a fake white balanced image.
  23. Your catalog or catalogs should be a file or files on your computer. If you did back-ups you will have copies of them at an earlier state as well. A catalog is a file with a name that ends in .lrcat on a mac. Look for this.
  24. Wolfgang, Doing a comparison like you suggest is very expensive and time consuming so it is unlikely that you will find this answer. I know of one underwater photographer who has and I believe still is shooting with 24x36mm, APS-C, and m4/3. That person is Alex Mustard. He has discussed this a bit here on Wetpixel as well as in his book. Keep in mind that the rules keep changing. I would say that the Nikon D500 is the current state of the art APS-C camera for underwater use. So conclusions based on earlier cameras may no longer be valid. This raising of the bar applies to all formats as well as camera types - Almost no one can keep with it and have extensive side by side experience with all of them. A number of people bought into the high MP Nikon D800 and its derivative models and find the high MP useful - discussed here on Wetpixel. Keep in mind that water itself is somewhat like an AA filter in that light is scattered and thus resolution is diminished. However unlike a filter the effect of water is quite variable - some things to consider are water distance, what is dissolved in the water, and what is suspended in the water. There are a lot of choices out there. One really needs to know very specifically what ones requirements are to make the best selection. For example, I make use of high ISO - have shot a lot at ISO 12800 in the last couple of years. I am shooting close-up action in poor light that can also be low contrast (e.g. salmon spawning behavior) so need the most sensitive and fastest AF there is. As well, I am shooting in cold water. I measured a water temp of 34F last month when I was shooting - this is about 1 degree C. I shoot for prolonged periods - not so much in December but I have had the camera powered up in one spot in a stream for 12 hours continuously during the long summer days. The only cameras that meet my requirements are the full sized sports oriented DSLRs. BTW, mirrorless cameras all seem to have tiny batteries that die rather quickly. If I lived in Austria I would be temped to photograph Huchen spawning. This would probably require the same gear I am using with salmon in Alaska. If you are only going to shoot in the Red Sea then your requirements might be quite different.
  25. I played around with zooming the film strip - momentarily when doing so the black part above the row of images does cover up the grey toolbar but only for a split second then fixes itself. This is not exactly what you are getting. What happens when you close the filmstrip (click on the tiny triangle in the middle at the bottom)? FYI, I am using a 2012 mac pro with 32GB of ram and have re-set the LR cache to 10GB. I avoid running other apps such as office when working in LR. I have nearly 1/2 million images in my LR library.
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