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Tom_Kline

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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. It sounds like you want to retrofit a Nikonos type (or alternate type such as S6) bulkhead to your housing to use a wired synch cord. The housing industry is not standardized very well when it comes to the hole in housings for bulkheads. It can be a plain hole, have metric threads (more than one size!!), or have inch sized threads. You need to figure this out for your housing first. For example my Seacam housings have M14 holes - 14mm in diameter with metric threads. Subal uses this size as well. No idea about Nexus - it could vary among their housing models. Contact your Nexus dealer. Some dealers here in the US have bulkheads on their site. For example: http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=0&zenid=0e3e552705d45aca40b927ddda944c14&keyword=bulkhead
  2. Underwater blue-water color correction filters these days are more of a salmon color and not red. For example see this link: http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=95_59&products_id=8539 I recall back in the film days that a CC30 red filter was suggested to use with an external filter adapter on Nikonos lenses (28 and 35mm) but I never got around to trying this. BTW 30CC units is fairly weak compared to red filters used for black and white film photography.
  3. Very much looking forward to when my copy of the book arrives! There is a very nice interview with Alex on this book here: http://www.uw360.asia/alex-mustard/
  4. I bought a pair of Nightsea Excitation Filters from WP member LiquidAdventures from this posting: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57408 We had great communications. The filters were shipped promptly and well packed. I would buy from LiquidAdventures again. Thank you Miles for a superb transaction.
  5. I owned one of these a few years ago. As well I owned the 18mm f/2.8 D lens and on close side by side examination found the optical components (other than the dome) to be identical. So you could be as well served by using the 18mm D lens behind an 8 inch dome.
  6. Very nice color contrast between the anemone and clownfish (pic #1 above)! Tom
  7. Yup, once one returns to the surface one just does a quick exhalation and the water squirts out, much easier to do than write down! There are a huge number of snorkel models - some have do-dads to make clearing a bit easier. Each of the major scuba manufacturers has a range of models. Here is an example of one from Scubapro: http://www.scubapro.com/en-US/USA/snorkeling/products/escape-snorkel.aspx You can read the description. You will typically be taught how to use a snorkel during the first pool session of a scuba. The instructor might have different models for you to try out or they may require you to buy one first. I would avoid a super cheap one as you may find yourself replacing it it sooner than later.
  8. Nice job Adam! Especially your editorial comments about potential housing design issues. I do hope that housings are able to use the joystick - in the case of Seacam Canon housings this is a big plus on the 1Dx housing over the Seacam 1D3 and 4 housings. A VERY useful feature indeed. Also a big kudos for your reporting of Boot 2016! I ordered a Seaflash 60D as a result! I wanted to see what they looked like first (which you provided). Tom
  9. I live in Alaska and have gone snorkeling above the Arctic circle (during the summer!!!!). I was wearing a drysuit. It is much easier to learn techniques while visiting the tropics and then applying them with extra gear such as drysuits.
  10. When skin diving one breathes on the surface through a snorkel then one holds ones breath for a dive. I would suggest learning how to do this before taking a scuba class. Even a whimp like me was able to go down to 10 meters or so on one breath and take the snaps mentioned above. I was wearing fins too - mask, fins and snorkel being the basic skin diving outfit.
  11. Eric Cheng posted something on this shoot on FB. Apparently there were issues with the joystick. I am watching this "space" as well since I have a 1DX housing.
  12. For one, it is a lot easier to take photos while breathing normally (on scuba) compared to taking pix while holding ones breath. It has been a while, like 20 years ago, when I was able to do 3 shots with my Nikonos RS on one breath while skin diving in the Fla. Keys. This included having to refocus and recompose between shots. Not sure if I could still do this being quite a bit older, but doing this on scuba is "a peace of cake". If you are right on the surface and breathing on a snorkel and shooting your pix will most likely have that "pointed down look" without developing additional techniques (maybe a polecam??). As well snorkel breathing involves more work (work of breathing) and thus more fatiguing compared to scuba with a good regulator.
  13. I still have some film UW gear but have not used it in a few years; none of it is Aquatica. You mainly need the right synch cable which most likely is Nikonos type on your housing - post pix if you want a better assessment. Current strobes that do TTL and take cables do Nikonos-Nikon TTL flash by default so you should be good to go strobewise. Most of the films I used have been discontinued. There maybe some ISO100 slide film from Fuji but I am not sure. There are various color negative films too. Back in the day I sent color negative film to Dale in Florida for processing and slide generation at the same time. Tom
  14. Pix can be seen here: http://digicame-info.com/2016/01/eos-1d-mark-ii.html Looks like there is a good chance that the Mk2 will fit into existing 1Dx housings! The joystick pads look to be a bit wider so hopefully that will not affect their function in housings - at least the way the Seacam one operates.
  15. Keep in mind that these are all fairly old lenses. The 10.5 dates to the early Nikon digital cameras with their low megapixel counts. The 16 is a "dinosaur". Residual aberrations may become more evident with higher resolution such as the D500. I believe that Subal also makes a Superdome similar to Seacam's - I would not be surprised if the glass for both comes from the same source. Seacam just released a Compact Port - see Wetpixel reports from DEMA2015. It appears to be intermediate in radius between the Superdome and the much smaller Wideport. BTW I have used the Wideport with the 14mm D lens with acceptable results -- I recall that this shot was done with the Wideport and 14mm: http://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-species-galleries/Pink-Salmon/i-XT46cJZ/A This was not a planned over-under shot. The water was so shallow that I could not submerge the port very far - the housing was on the stream bottom. Tom
  16. The problem with your question is that you have not specified whether the domes are full hemispheres or partial hemispheres. Image quality depends on the radius of curvature rather than the physical size of the dome. The bigger the radius, the better. That said, I have used the Seacam Superdome, which is a 9" diameter partial hemisphere when shooting DX to get the possible image quality even with the 10.5 mm fisheye lens. I have been using and testing the Sea & Sea corrector lens. I posted my results here -- http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54681 These results were done on full frame. I would expect improvements as well with DX a.k.a. APS-C.
  17. You can turn off lens corrections - it is near the bottom of the list in the develop module. Click on the profile tab. Unselect it if a lens profile is selected. There are also manual corrections in another tab. Make sure these are zeroed. Some corrections require cropping to keep the image rectangular.
  18. Luminous landscape is oriented towards landscape photography. https://luminous-landscape.com/ It has recently become a paid subscription site ($12/ year) for the articles while the associated forums remains free. There are many on line forums where one can post images - Photography on the net has topical photo sharing (and discussion) forums as well as equipment centric ones. http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php For example, the number of bird photo sharing postings is approaching one million. That should be plenty of inspiration!
  19. Great images! The divers provide a very nice sense of scale too.
  20. Congrats!! Even if you do not use the housing the camera and two lenses are top tier so have fun with your prize! Those two lenses are also a bit challenging to use under water since they are difficult to match with a port, which needs to be very large, not sure if 8" will do it.
  21. Your pixel dimensions seem inconsistent with a raw image. Look at the library module for the exif data. The pixel dimensions are given there along with a crop. See my example for a Canon CR2 file. Yours should be the same as that given in the specifications for your camera. In my example this is the same as listed for the Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark 3 (the highest value under resolution) by Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS-1Ds_Mark_III
  22. Nice hat on the rhinophore! Merry Christmas!
  23. The question posed in the thread title reminds me of the iconic image thread started by Steve Williams a while back. IMHO this is a different question then what gets selected for a given publication. Lists of "best" seems dubious at best given the great diversity in range of underwater image content. As well the majority of people have not been underwater in a natural habitat while maintaining vision; thus most underwater images are a bit exotic to them.
  24. Looks more like a scallop to me (note the eyes). Do you have a pic of the shell?
  25. The secret to having ones library on an external drive attached to a laptop is to use smart previews. This way one can export files without having the actual raw data. I have not done this myself but know that others have and may do this when I replace my antique laptop.
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