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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. A book has been published that should be on the bookshelves of all those interested in blackwater photography. It is just out and available at a discount here: https://mutualpublishing.com/product/blackwater-diving/ I got my copy yesterday and am quite impressed with it thus far. It is mostly an identification book - the background material ends on p. 13. Here are a couple of example pages. Many of the organisms illustrated are widely distributed so will be of interest to more than just those doing blackwater dives in Hawaii. Yes that is snow in the background.
  2. There is a remote control made by Nikon with a switch in it for long exposures. One option would be to make a housing for this remote that you would connect via a bulkhead to the cameras. Alternatively you could build a remote control that does the same thing using the type of switch used for lamps (the things you have at home such as table lamps). This type of switch is pushed once to close the circuit and a second time to open the circuit. It could go on the end of a cable that is cabled to a bulkhead or possibly built into the housing by repurpusing an existing but unused lead-in in your housing - you need to have the space inside the housing to fit the switch without impacting camera functions. You would need a remote cord plugged into the camera inside the housing that would connect to the bulkhead (or the switch) on the inside. Nikon (as well as Canon) remote cords have three wires - one is a common (#1). One of the others, call it #2, is for waking up the camera and starting the autofocus. The third is for triggering the shot. It is possible to close both at the same time either mechanically with the switch (the switch needs to have connections to do this) or by connecting wire 2 and 3 together (inside the housing) so that closing the circuit with the switch connects wire 1 with 2 and 3 simultaneously. I did this with my D1X when using the Aquatica remote and set the camera to focus priority when using AF. It also works for MF.
  3. I have this housing and used it mainly during the late 80's and early 90's. It works with 80, 60 and 50mm lenses only. The domes are 8" in diameter. One could stand it up on the roll bars so it resembled R2D2 and is what my housing was nicknamed. There was a more recent housing for the later SWC models (SWC/M and later) made by Gates called the H38 that used an 8" dome. I bought one from Hasselblad USA shortly before going digital but sold it as it got little use once I went digital. There are some postings on Wetpixel showing this housing. Darkness's housing is NOT this model but the earlier blue housing.
  4. Good catch! Forgot about flashbulbs! The 38mm lens is only f/4.5 so you do not have to stop down much from maximum aperture to reach f/5.6 or f/8! You will have to do some trial and error. The bigger deal is having to estimate the focus distance so it will be a bit like shooting an old Nikonos. The H38 housing had a focusing scale on the focus knob.
  5. With the prism removed it is possible that you will be able to chimp through the viewing port.
  6. Like Adam entropy tends to take over. I have two sets of industrial shelves with plastic bins. I bought them at Sam's Club in Anchorage on a ferry trip there a few years back - store is now gone and the ferry system here has been mostly offline. If there is a Sam's in your area they are wort looking at. I have some stuff stored in Think Tank rollers (one domestic and one international) that only leave on dive travel so they still have use at home plus some spares are stored there ready to go.....
  7. Since the strobes are Seacam's they can communicate with each other with the extra wire but the camera itself has just 5 contacts. I have the C version of the 250D, nice but very heavy.
  8. The Seacam 160D can synch at 1/8000 (p.7 of the manual). This is enabled by the shutter becoming a narrow slit. I am skeptical that 3-4 flashes will do it.
  9. I know how HSS works but am rather skeptical that the strobe recycles between individual flashes within a shot, more like a small amount of the charge is depleted for each flash and the capacitor gets refilled after the frame. We are talking about tens (maybe not even tens) of micro seconds per flash. 1/1000 is one millisecond or 1000 microseconds so 1/8000 is a bit more than 100 microseconds so 10 flashes of 10ms each would just about fit. Alex mentioned in his video (months ago) that the flash tubes used in the new Retras enable this teeny weeny flashing, but I am clueless about the Seacam 160D (it is also not a full circular tube like the Retras). Is there any power control (strobe output) in HSS mode? E.g., is it set by the shutter speed alone.
  10. I am not asking about a full power dump but, e.g. 1/64, see above query from me. For example in your above pix done with the 160D you indicate that the pix were shot at f/22 or f/16. Using these small apertures may have required a higher manual power setting. Recycling (i.e. recharging the capacitor(s)) may have taken you a few seconds - you do not say. What if you had shot at f/2.8 instead? Would the recycling time have sped up say to less than one second - this would be useful to know. If the the recycling time is fixed regardless of power used then HSS may not be all that useful, IMHO. Maybe the Retras are better???? BTW I have not used HSS with my Canon version 60D but I am not expecting much with four AA batteries inside. As well I am more likely to use HSS with an RS lens (therefore N rather than C) as they seem to do much better at larger apertures. I was shooting salmon by remote control which also uses an S6 connector however only 3 wires are actually used. I know this for a fact because I installed the S6 bulkhead on the housing myself and know the 3 extra wires are dangling disconnected inside the housing. Nikon has used 5 wires since TTL flash started - I have no idea (other than possible use for the slave strobe when hooked up with a special circuit they make - see box on p.24 on the manual and other D model strobe instructions) what Seacam does with the "spare" wire of the S6. I was guessing that they could use this fact as a way of detecting brand. The instructions would be far more useful if they mentioned in the line I quoted that this is a user adjustable parameter with a page reference so that if the wrong brand is displayed one would know what to do. Also what the blazes is meant by flash type (also in the quoted line)? Maybe they mean flash mode such as TTL. Again a page reference to see where is can be changed would be very useful here.
  11. It must recycle at some point. Are you saying the strobe is dead after an HSS shot? As for blurring. I got a blurred salmon a few days ago when shooting at 1/500th - an ambient light shot
  12. I read this in the instructions: "When switching ON the unit you first see a 3 part battery symbol indicating the battery capacity status and the flash type followed by the NIKON or CANON identification." which I took to mean the strobe knew the details (identification) of the camera when it is powered up. Maybe they need better clarity. Nikon has 5 contacts in the hotshoe and so has 5 wires. Hence the Nikonos-derived N5 bulkhead designation.
  13. Could you be more specific about how much output is reduced. Also the number of flashes per charge. If one is using an ISO value in the thousands (which I regularly do) and HSS at 1/64 (or the lowest setting on the 160D) what kind of frame rate is possible and how many shots on a battery charge? For now just one flash. I would expect that ambient light would do most of the exposure. The strobe is simply to fill in a bit of the shadow which might include the whitish bottom half of a shark (so reflective).
  14. There just one model of the Seaflash 160D and it does both N or C unlike previous Seacam D flashes - I know as I have both N and C versions of the 150D. Apparently the strobe is "smart" enough to be able to detect which brand of camera it is attached to. One hint may be due to N using 5 wires whereas C uses 6.
  15. I recall shooting f/11 with 70mm Ektachrome 200 Pro film - brings back memories especially the hassle of special ordering the film. Using one or two 150 W-S strobes. The whole rig with two strobes (EL housing) was quite the monster, around 50 pounds in air. On the plus side one can sync at 1/500 due to the leaf shutter.
  16. I guess the black one was added. Do you have a volt-ohm meter aka multimeter? You can use one to test the conductivity between the plugs and bulkheads.
  17. The two housing rear sections shared the same front section. He simply has to replace the standard flat port with the correction port - this may already be done. There is another lens that goes on the front of the Biogon lens of the SWC. The two (port and this other lens) correction lenses work as a unit.
  18. I was wondering about this. The prism fitting on the 500C is much longer than the top of a SWC.
  19. Redundancy. The Hasselblad lenses that are needed are the ones with Compur shutters in the lens. There is a PC post on the lens to plug the wire into. To use two strobes one will need a Y type synch cord - two strobes plugged into one fitting. There are both cabled (wired) as well as fiber optic cords of the Y type. The Sea and Sea model is no longer made but can be found on the auction site and maybe here.
  20. I used the Subsea strobes as well as the Ike 150 back in the day with my Hasselblad system and used the EO plug on the housing (for the EL). These were 150 watt-second units. EO is a bit out of fashion with current strobes. Better off adapting to a bulkhead or fiber optic. With the blue housings it may be possible to swap out bulkheads - possibly a reduction fitting will have to be added as those old bulkheads appear to have used a larger diameter hole than the 14mm being used these days. I would be interested in knowing if Devon can do this.
  21. I bought some arms and clamps from SMY from this ad: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66375-fs-arms-and-clamps/ They arrived promptly from Germany in great shape and very well packed. I would buy from SMY again. Thank you!!
  22. This is a bayonet filter that Nikon used with several other lenses such as the 16mm fisheye: https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/lens-filters/39mm-bayonet-l37c-uv-haze-filter.html Probably easier to find the filter for sale than to make one. Keep in mind that it needs to be aligned perpendicular to the optical axis.
  23. The Laowa 24mm macro probe is amphibious up to the USB socket. It has a flat port which I suspect is why it is less sharp away from the optical axis. It does not seem all that sharp at infinity possibly due to the small aperture range (I have this lens). I am interested in hearing about the mirror gadget, which you have, before forking over the money for one.... f/2.8 is the MAXIMUM aperture of the Nikon and Canon macro 105 or 100mm lenses. It is interesting that the aperture of the prime lens is conserved. I have a vintage fisheye conversion lens made by Kenko (bought it in the 70's) that has an effective aperture that is dependent on the focal length of the prime lens. I bought it with a Bay50 adapter to use on the Hasselblad 80mm lens - I recall the effective max aperture with that as being rather slow like f/11 (have not used it in decades). I have a shot done with the Laowa lens on my site, found two actually: https://www.salmonography.com/Northeast-Pacific/Portraits-of-Boreal-Pacific-Fish/i-nwFh99w/A https://www.salmonography.com/Northeast-Pacific/Portraits-of-Boreal-Pacific-Fish/i-cJTD6j3/A NOT a salmonid so in the different place on my site. Note that this species is also found in Europe. These shots were taken right at the edge of a lake, in just a couple of cm of water. Would the mirror help with the angle? I was positioned on land so had to point the rig at a downward angle which limited me quite a bit. T PS - just looked at the exif data - it is just one shot - the one looking downward - file with Z6 in the name.
  24. I use this plug-in after reading about here on Wetpixel a few years ago. The app was broken for much of 2019 but was fixed in time for me to post my Xmas card in December. I posted a pic using it just a few days ago. FYI, it is set to post pix at 640 pixels.
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