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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. The Canon 8-15 has been my "go-to" lens for salmon since it came out; have two copies of it so I can deploy two cameras with the same lens model. One is now dedicated to the last Canon APSH camera, the 1D4, with a mini dome for extreme shallow water shots. I have missed a number of salmon spawning opportunities in the past because the redd (salmon nest) was too shallow. With the Nikkor joining the other two I can deploy three with the same focal length range! Already had the 10.5 and 16mm Nikkors when I got the 8-15. The 10.5 was my most used lens when I was shooting APSC (D2X). I am most curious how the Nikkor will work at 8mm for Aurora shots since it is a hair faster at f/3.5. Been waiting form the right Aurora...
  2. I have been enjoying this series. It might cost me.....
  3. I have not tried my 8-15 on my Z6 yet but I suspect the AF works fairly well as the AF in the 300PF does. These two lenses are of the E type which is the latest version of the F mount. So the main improvements from a Z mount fisheye lens might include a smaller size (smaller than the 8-15 plus FTZ) and better optical performance (maybe less of a blue circle at 8mm?). I was ready to get the new 24-200 for travel but initial reports suggest it is not much of a performer on full frame so rather disappointed. The 24-70 kit lens (an S type) is quite good so left it on the camera (with a polarizer) on my last Hawaii diving trip for topside pix (last year :-<<<, sadly will not be able to go in 2020). The planned shorter focal length macro is not listed as an S lens so I fear it might be as poor a performer as the new 24-200 which is not an S lens. I fear the non-S lenses will be substandard. Really too bad, IMHO.
  4. First, you should make sure your camera is working correctly by shooting some images outside of the housing. Make sure to also test at reasonably low light levels such as those corresponding to those pix that failed. I would shoot in single shot AF mode so that you can observe the AF points. As well, turn on the beep. You may also turn on focus priority. Are your pix still out of focus?
  5. No, if one is using full frame as the 85mm Micro Nikkor is a DX lens.
  6. Looks like a synch problem. Try using longer than 1/200 shutter speeds. Like 1/100 or 1/60.
  7. I just did a quick test - just over a second at 1/4 power (25%) and about one second at 12%. I said one thousand to do the timing. Used black Eneloops. There are 2 power settings for the aiming light.
  8. There might very well be a leak in your evacuation device. It probably has a check valve to keep the atmosphere from leaking in that leaks just a bit. I would disconnect it and close up the evac. port on the housing like you would for diving and remeasure after a day and see if the pressure goes up as you have noted. It is going up and not down. The 10 on the gauge in inches is actually -10 or about 1/3 of an atmosphere down from starting pressure. So what is left in the housing is about 2/3 of an atmosphere absolute. If it also leaks with the evac device disconnected then it will be time to consider were the leak might be in the housing starting with the main o-ring and the port o-ring -- one at a time using a process of elimination.
  9. A quick update. I got a pair of ULCS handlebar clamps to hold the fiber optic adapter close to the strobe. I got some Toslink cable. Toslink is a tad stiffer than the stock fiber optic. I tried one more time to fix the original fiber optic and failed again. Then I cut a short section of Toslink and on the first try it worked. I suspect the issue was with the fiber optic. The spot were I took the photos got no sun just a couple of weeks ago. You will note the one with a shorter fiber optic is on the left, which is the Toslink.
  10. If you still have your SLR housing you could focus with it, turn the camera off, then check the focus distance on the surface. Use that distance with your Z6. You will need to use the same dome with both housings. I tried using this pre-focus approach early on in my digital underwater photography using the 14mm MF lens - got too many OOF pix of salmon so gave up on that lens. Got the 14 AF!! The technique might work better for larger subjects like blue whales. Since you already have the lens it will not cost anything to experiment other than your time. You could write Nikon and complain about not having an FTZ that does screw-drive AF.
  11. PS. If you use a flat port it will be like a 1.33x increase in focal length so your field will be narrowed compared to a dome.
  12. Since you are using APS-C a flat port will work with these focal lengths and so be less challenging to set up. I have a 7D2 and have used the Canon 24 and 40mm pancake lenses with it when traveling but I have not used them for underwater photography. Is your query about these lenses? Since these lenses are so stubby it might be an issue properly adapting a dome port to them. Their entrance pupils might be closer to the camera compared to your 15mm lens which I am guessing is a fisheye, the Canon model? You might want to ask Ikelite about what you want and if they have specific recommendations for your lenses. You need to be more specific about your gear when you communicate with them. Other 24 and 40mm lenses are much larger than the two Canon pancakes so would take different port setups.
  13. Good question!!! It is the fiber optic cable that came with the strobe. Oskar told me: "The optical cable we are using at the moment is a multi core 613 type which has an official bending radius of 1mm." The more recent failures were not due to obvious cable breakage but much less light came out the failure end compared to the other strobe after attempting repair after the fiber optic came out of the adapter while it was in the bathtub when I rinsed the setup after my shoot. One troubleshooting step is to unplug the fiber optic cables from the strobes and look at the ends while firing the camera. I have ordered some Tos Link cable (suggested by another Wetpixel thread) as the original cable is getting short.
  14. The angle of a given lens, fisheye or not, should be the same behind a dome port as shooting the lens normally (in air). To work properly the dome must be properly configured to the lens and the lens must be able to focus on the virtual image generated by the dome. This is NOT like a flat port. See: https://www.scubageek.com/articles/wwwdome.html
  15. I would like to report some success with the new Pro. However, there were two more failures requiring re-termination of the fiber optic. I did two outings. First, looking at nearby freshwater sites but all were quite frozen where it was deep enough to shoot so I was forced over to the harbor that has floating docks and stuff growing on them. So went into a polecam operation. In the topside pic you can see the tide was a few meters lower than high tide (where the snow ends). I made a shear guess: shot both strobes at 1/4 power at ISO100 at f/11. The histogram was well-centered so just did this one site. I am showing both the full frame and a blow-up so it is possible to see that there were mussels in the shot! Used the RS28mm lens.
  16. I have a further suggestion for the adapter. That is to make it possible to bolt it in place. For example, have the diameter be thicker where the set screw is located so the side opposite to the set screw could be flattened a bit, then drilled and tapped for either M6 or 1/4-20. One could either bolt something on directly on or use a ball fitting similar to the one on the strobe. M8 would be overkill. For example: https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p1630_u-l-c-s--ad-6-ball-adapter.html
  17. Oskar, Thank you for your reply. I had success times two but before that let me address your question. The only twisting was incidental. Nothing at all like described in edit 1 which I did not see until after doing the repair this morning. The strobe was mounted on a ball at the top of the housing (ball normally used for pole cam or focusing lights). So the only movement came from plugging and unplugging the plastic end into the strobe and incidental movement to move the cabling out of the way - I used a standard curly Seacam S6 - S6 cable. After the initial failure I started swapping strobes so there was a little more movement of the cable. First the old model. When it failed I got a Seacam S6 - S&S cable which I attached to the opposite bulkhead to confirm functionality of strobe and camera which turned out OK. Then I went for the second adapter - at this point I had not yet opened the box containing the 2nd strobe plus accessories. Number 2 worked OK as I described yesterday. Today. I first fixed the problematic adapter. It was challenging to remove the broken bit. I found success by using a micro screw driver to wedge it out about 0.5mm. I was then able to grab hold of it with a small needle-nose pliers - the one I had in my UWP tool kit. The transparent part came out first. Following a little more digging with the screwdriver I got enough of the black part out to grab with the pliers. The screwdriver I used as well as the two parts of the cable that I removed are in the attached pic. One can see the wear on the ends resulting from my extraction technique. I then attached it to my housing after mounting the old strobe. Made sure it was on SL and it worked! I think I had it on to just "on" yesterday. So success on both the cord as well as the old strobe working via fiber optics. My suggestion is to have the hole at metal end of the adapter part be of dimensions compatible with the plug that is on the strobe end of fiber optic and use the same plastic part on each end. Think double-ender like a Viking ship. One could unplug the fiber optic part from the adapter part for traveling making them easier to pack. Fiber optic cords could be packed separately into a more or less flat compartment. This would reduce stress on the fiber optic part since it would not have a heavy object attached to the end (the adapter part). People like me would be happy if you sold the plastic plugs by the boxload (2 dozen or even 50!). I like having backups plus the cords could be made for different lengths. The set screws could even go in a small ziplock bag saving the labor of installing them. Thanks, Tom
  18. I have some S&S connectors as well but they are of the wired kind so do not work on the new strobe models. I had some trouble getting my new strobes to work. Optical adapter #1 would not trigger yet I could see the red flash at the end of the fiber. I tired both of my new pros as well as one of my originals. No dice. To make sure it was not the camera I was able to confirm the strobe worked by using the wired connector. Then I unpacked adapter #2 and it worked on the new strobes! Was able to fire each pro but not able to fire the old Retra. So looking more carefully at adapter #1 I noticed red light coming out from around the fiber cable where it comes out of the adapter but did not see this with #2. So I decided to re-terminate #1. While looking for a matching Allen wrench size to loosen the set screw the cable broke off completely - see pic. Looks like a very bad design to me if the cable crimped where it comes out from the adapter. It might be better to have a bigger hole to match the one on the strobe fitting and have the same part on each end of the cable. This would make exchanging cables at each end much easier. I am not sure how to proceed now as there is not much to grab on to. The fiber optic did not just drop out after loosening the set screw. I tucked in the broken end of the fiber optic under the velcro strap for the pic.
  19. We will have to hear from Oskar. Meanwhile I was curious about the black cap over the optical sensor. I have never used these on my ori. Retras and have only used the similar part on my Inons when using them as slaves. The Inon part fits on the Retra Pro but the Retra part does nor fit on the Inons due to the larger diameter of the sensor - at least on the Z220 model. The hole in the Inon part has a larger diameter.
  20. Yes that is what I was referring. I seem to recall from when I ordered the strobes that two fiber optic cables could be used but that one would be included with each adapter.
  21. Mine arrived so just starting. Fiber optics are totally new to me too. Was not able to find the "app" either via Google using Chrome on my computer nor the Apple app from the Apple App store. There needs to be a back up maybe a pdf at the Retra website? Trying to figure out how 2 fiber optics are attached to the adapter. Is the part that inserts into the strobe a standard part?
  22. FWIW my DHL bill is 110US for two pro strobes plus two synch adapters. As well, DHL has to mail it to me since I am in the boonies.
  23. FWIW I have FW version 2.20 in my Z6. Since FW update affected the AF it could be significant for these TCs.
  24. I have not shot any pix with the 8-15 and TC so cannot comment on image quality. I removed the lens shade during my test yesterday. Note that the shade will cause strange vignetting at wide settings. It is interesting that my oldish TC is AFing just fine on the Z6.
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