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Everything posted by Tom_Kline

  1. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/discover New link for recent topics works for me!
  2. I guess we need to actually use WP to find the issues. Did find signature editing a second ago!
  3. Maybe that is why signatures are missing, just now noticed by me after making a post on another thread. PS. Signature suddenly appeared! Did NOT see signature editing in my profile a minute ago.
  4. This is a lens for some mirrorless cameras and maybe even some dSLRs in live view, e.g., Nikon Z6 which compensates for darkness in the VF rather nicely. The video shows the lens elements moving inside a fixed length barrel and confirms a bellows extension effect by change in exposure (See Chris' post above). Looks sharp but one must NOT stop sown very much at 2:1!! A manual focusing ring might cost as much as half the cost of the lens so needs to be considered.
  5. Table at the end is OK but not clear if the listed Seacam strobes are the more recent ones with a D in the name or the older ones without (as listed). Scott's table would be more clear if it included beginning and ending years for each model. Good having older ones listed as well for reference.
  6. The "topics" box (lower right) contains just a few and does not seem to be bookmarkable. Not a satisfactory replacement in my book.
  7. I am not seeing a reply to thread so started this new one (green button obvious). Also I cannot find a recent topics button. Using Firefox on a Mac. Tom PS I just now did see a reply to topic (green button) on a thread started by Interceptor but still am not seeing one in this topic or Adam's in the announcement forum. Hence I am using edit.
  8. A candidate: https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/details/lenses/ef/ultra-wide (weitwinkel)-zoom/ef-11-24mm-f-4l-usm My understanding is that this lens is used by vid makers to deal with the crop factors of DSLRs when used for vids.
  9. Good point! I use a 5 degree Inon light for looking around and a moderate wide angle light for focusing (AF on a DSLR). The 5 degree light also works well for daytime dives for looking in crevices, under overhangs etc.
  10. I have the S&S 250 as well as the older Z220s. I also have the Seacam strobes (250D, 150D, and 60D) and have used just one of these strobes to successfully light up fisheye shots to the corners which is not possible with the others. Used diffusers for all shots. So I concur with post 25. IMHO it is end results that count, not wall test shots!!
  11. From post 16: "With regard to the image above showing the dispersion pattern, I am wondering if the pattern in air is similar to what one would get under water? In particular should one expect a non-diffused Z330 to have such a pronounced cross shape in actual use?" The question was under water vs in air. Retra vs. Retra (the new ones) is more obvious. If both were used at full power the more powerful one would cover a bit more as you suggest but could be overexposed in the center. Should be the same if exposure was equalized.
  12. It will and is a variable due to the dome shape of the port used on the strobe. Like with the dome port of a housing the interaction with water results in a lens different from when it is used in air. Recall the difference in infinity focus position with dome optics. Some strobe domes are truer domes than others. Looks like there is a trend with new strobes more dome like, especially the Inons. I think the effect is not academic.
  13. One is continuous (like a regular light bulb) whereas the other one flashes.
  14. Alex M was able to make it work here: http://wetpixel.com/articles/field-review-retra-lsd-prime-snoot Do you have an older Z240 with a bulb rather than an LED? see this: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51586 See what Oskar says in post 10: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62595 An idea: swap your 2 Z240s so the one on the camera is now the slave. Maybe the other one lines up better????
  15. Sounds like you passed the mirror test, part 1. Repeat with snoot. Repeat again after each adjustment. I gather the LSDs have been problematic with Inons - there may be something on this somewhere on Wetpixel. There is a diffuser in the LSD that should help but having the aiming light in the center of the flash tube (may be the case with the 330) is better.
  16. Sounds like it should be working. First thing I would do is the mirror test. See my example. Remove the snoot first. You may have to do this with a spot next to you where you can place the slaved strobe. The idea is to make sure both strobes are going off and synch with the shutter. I took this last month in Hawaii.
  17. Make sure your main strobe is not using pre-flashes!! You might be seeing the slave responding to these. If the snooted strobe is not a slave you need a more complete description of your setup to figure this out.
  18. The color of the "fringing" is consistent with the shadow colors (light from strobes blocked). This suggests that you may have ghosting from ambient light as the snake moved during the exposure. Note the shutter speed is 1/60th of a second. Strobes mentioned in post 11.
  19. Yes they will fit. There are, however, newer viewfinders that are a bit slimmer.
  20. There is nothing like actually using a product! Even with the round flash tube of Seacam strobes I find that a diffuser is useful when shooting a fisheye lens. The Seacam 250D however did not have a diffuser so I improvised. I used a white almost transparent grocery bag tucked under the neoprene cover. It is in use in the attached pic. The main disadvantage of Seacam strobes, except for the latest model, IMHO is that they use proprietary batteries. These batteries might be described as anti-Eneloop because of their short shelf life and rapid self-discharge, basically most unlike Eneloops.
  21. I avoid shooting at full power for three reasons: 1. recycling is quicker, 2. more flashes are possible with a set of batteries, 3. flash duration is shorter. At full power a strobe may need >1 second to recharge its capacitors (recycle). Furthermore the flash duration at full power is most likely several milliseconds for most portable strobes. To stop action one may want to use 1/4 or less power. Few of any of the strobe manufacturers provide flash duration data for their strobes. For some applications these three points may not apply such as Alison's above. Shooting hundreds of pix of fish behavior (i.e., fast moving subject) over many hours of being powered up has different demands, my case. I am also an exception to paragraph two, above. I have shot tens of thousands of fisheye lens pix using just one strobe.
  22. My experience which was shooting the 10.5mm on the D2X so is a bit dated is that I could and did use dome ports from a 100mm diameter macro dome port to a superdome. That is a strength of using a fisheye lens. I used them according to shooting circumstances. The superdome produced the best results that were noticeable even with 12 megapxels.The tiny dome worked better in water too shallow for the larger domes - but note that the camera was very close to the subject.
  23. I use focusing lights while scuba diving and doing photography mainly for night photography and have not noticed an adverse effect from the light in my pix. I do tend to keep the brightness level of the light down but that is to get at least an hour of lighting. I also use focusing lights for my salmon photography when it is dusk. This does help with focusing with DSLRs as they reach a point where focusing is not possible due to low light. As well focusing becomes slower when they become light-challenged. This point can be detected if I forgot to turn off focus assist in the camera menu (done this a couple of times!) as the "pilot" light will come on (Seacam strobes).
  24. Thanks for the mention Chris. I have been shooting salmon UW for several decades and with digital for about 1.5 decades. I have posted some of my technique shots here on WP. Basically I am using a DSLR for digital. I started with APSC (Nikon DX) then added Canon full frame as it came out first. My most used lens for salmon with the Nikon was the 10.5mm fisheye and with the Canon the 8-15mm fisheye zoom (I got one within a week of it being available!). I have only a few salmon shots done without remote control, which is of the simple 3-wire release type. I use flash for a good portion of my shots. It is very dark here (sun less than 10 degrees above horizon at true noon and it is behind a mountain) when the Coho spawn. On the plus side water gets very clear once the air is at sub-freezing temperatures! Lots of examples on my website. The few vids I have done show shots being taken: https://www.salmonography.com/Salmonid-species-galleries/Videos/
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