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denniscloutier

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denniscloutier last won the day on February 16 2014

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About denniscloutier

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Canada
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus EPL2
  • Camera Housing
    Olympus
  1. My wife and I both use micro 4/3 cameras for underwater photography, and I think our results are limited by our abilities, not by our equipment. M43 suffers from higher noise at high iso and the continuous autofocus is not as good as SLRs. I think you could also say that the dynamic range may not be as good. However, it seems to me that none of these issues apply to macro photography. You control the lighting, so there is no need to shoot at high iso. In my macro photography I am generally happy if the distracting background drops off to black. So I adjust the strobes to light the subject well and don't worry about the background. As a result I'm not too worried about dynamic range for macro. It is an issue for wide angle stuff. I think the only strength of SLRs for macro is that you can print bigger. If you're looking for really large prints then SLRs are the way to go, but you are paying a pretty substantial penalty in weight and size for that ability. I'm happy to stick with m43 for underwater macro. Where I'm tempted by SLRs is in wildlife photography on land where the autofocus and dynamic range would be a real benefit. But that's a different story.
  2. I liked the Thorfinn as well. We didn't like the food, and the hot water in our shower was hit or miss. We were on the upper deck and apparently whenever someone showered in one of the lower deck cabins they got all of the hot water. The boat isn't purpose built, so the dive deck isn't as deluxe as the other livaboard we were on, but it worked. The guides, and all of the rest of the staff were excellent. I'd gladly go back. The boat is old, and very seaworthy. I'm not surprised that she's the one that survived the storm undamaged.
  3. The only way the pressure can change is either a huge temperature change, not realistic, or something leaks into the housing to displace volume, and enough has to leak in to compress the air in the housing enough to make a big enough pressure change to trip the alarm. In other words a fair bit of water.
  4. The forces on the housing are a function of the pressure difference between the inside and outside of the housing. A vacuum of 10 psi at the surface is the same as going down 20' or so with a housing that has no vacuum inside. So pulling a vacuum before diving is the same as diving a bit deeper. Having said that, I can see that if you spring a leak at depth this could be a problem. Lets say you evacuate the housing to 10 psi of vacuum (i.e. 4 psi absolute), and lets also guess that the alarm goes off if the vacuum drops to 9 psi (i.e. 5 psi absolute). In order to do this you need to compress the air in the housing to 80% of it's original volume. How do you do that? By filling the rest of the volume with water. I am guessing that the alarm deadband on these things is less than 1 psi, but you get the idea. I don't know what the actual alarm setting of these systems is, but a small pressure change can amount to a fair amount of water in the housing when there is a leak underwater. I think the real value of these systems is that you can find a leak before you go into the water. If the leak starts once you're in the water I don't think they're likely to help much. I still think they're great and my wife and I have them on both of our housings.
  5. My wife has the 13" MBP with the 256 GB drive and I have the 15" with the 500 GB drive, both late 2012 machines. They both work very well. The 256 GB drive isn't big enough to store her whole catalog, so we set it up with a travel catalog and move everything over when we get home. The smaller machine is a little slower than mine, but it works fine for travel using both Lightroom and Photoshop.
  6. If you're getting motion blur I assume it is because most of the light on the subject is ambient, not strobe. The strobe firing time is much less than 1/250th, so if all of the light was coming from the strobe you wouldn't get any blur. This may not be practical, but if you can crank up your strobe power and lower your iso or aperture you should get a little less blur because more light will be coming from the strobe. Of course this also means you'll have a very dark background, so it may not work in your situation. You'll also need strobes powerful enough to overwhelm the ambient light. When I have shot sea lions this has worked because with our poor local viz the ambient light level was pretty low.
  7. This system is now sold. Thanks to everyone who expressed interest. Regards, Dennis
  8. I'm going to give it a while to see if I can sell the whole thing as a package. If that doesn't work then I'll break it up. I'll send you a pm if I get to that point. Thanks, Dennis
  9. My wife has upgraded to an EM-1, so we're selling her old EPL-2 and associated gear. We are selling off everything except strobes, arms and lenses. This includes: EPL-2 Camera body - Original 14-42 kit lens sold with the body, and a zoom gear. This zoom gear also fits the 9-18 lens, which isn't included. - 3 camera batteries, one of which doesn't seem to hold all that much charge any more, and one of which is almost new. - camera strap, usb cable, battery charger & cord - body cap & lens front & back caps. Olympus housing - original flat port that came with housing. Fits the kit lens, and it will also fit the Oly 60mm macro lens (we are keeping the 60mm lens). - 67mm threaded filter holder for the flat port. This fits standard close up lenses. - spare o rings for housing and ports - o ring grease - port cover for flat port Zen WA 100 Dome Port - this port is recommended for the Olympus 9-18 zoom lens. As stated above I'm including a zoom gear which fits this lens, but not the lens itself. - front and rear covers for the dome port - spare port o rings. - grease Zen Flat Port for 45mm Macro Lens - this port is recommended for the Panasonic/Leica 45mm macro lens. The lens is not included. - front and rear covers Ultralight tray and handle Everything is in excellent condition with no signs of scratches or defects on the optical surfaces. Everything is guaranteed for 30 days. I'll give you a full refund if you ship it back to me in the same condition as it was received. My preferred payment method is paypal. I am asking $900 for the whole setup. This includes shipping in Canada and continental US. I will ship elsewhere so please ask me for a shipping quote if you're interested. I'm going to start out by trying to sell the whole package at once, but I may end up parting it out, so please let me know if you're interested in part of it.
  10. I love the EM-1 for land photography. We haven't taken it underwater yet so I can't speak to that. If I were buying a camera for underwater use I'm not sure which way I'd go between the EM-1 and 5. It seems to me that most of the advantages of the 1 such as better autofocus with 4/3 lenses, faster shooting and better ergonomics, don't really apply underwater. But, if he's also planning on using the camera on land, then I would definitely go for the 1 over the 5.
  11. We have recently bought a housing for our EM-1 to replace my wife's EPL-2. We are going to sell the camera body as well as the Olympus housing, Zen dome and macro ports and a tray and handle. We're going to throw in the kit lens that came with the body, but we're keeping the wide angle and macro lenses as well as the arms and strobes. If you're interested please let me know and I'll post some pics.
  12. I don't think we need a new forum, but I suggest that the one we have should be renamed. Mirrorless cameras are not slrs and they aren't point and shoots, so I don't know where to post mirrorless camera stuff. Perhaps the slr forum should be renamed "Interchangeable Lens Cameras".
  13. FWIW, I have heard a rumour that Aquatica is working on a housing as well. I'm glad to see they have decided to support micro 4/3. I have a Nauticam housing for my EM-5 and I'm very happy with it, but competition never hurts.
  14. Not quite free. I just got that fixed. Olympus originally wanted to charge me about $180, but I managed to talk them down to about $80 to fix it. My camera was about 1 month out of warranty. If I hadn't lost the knob I think I would have tried gluing it back on myself.
  15. Great set. I would be interesting in hearing more about where you stayed in Malapascua.
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