ianmarsh

Bump

Hey Darth, (if that is your real name) Sorry, I just saw this. That was quite awhile ago, but if I remember, DHL charged something like $125 in "Brokerage Fees". Typically this is a $10 fee if you use Canada Post/ USPS, so I'm not sure what service DHL is providing. The other thing is that this gouging seems to be more related to DHL in the EU. I ran into a similar scenario ordering parts from Seacam in Austria and shipped via DHL. I wonder if it has to do with crossing borders, although that was supposed to be the point of the EU. On the other hand I recently bought some bike parts (worldwide shortage!) from a shop in Singapore, shipped to my door in 3 days by DHL, and there were no fees apart from taxes. Country of Origin for duty purposes was USA, so not sure if that is something to do with NAFTA, or whatever it is called now. Anyway, I think the best bet is to use only postal services, rather than couriers. Couriers all have a similar modus operandi of gouging with unspecified charges, Fedex being the worst domestically. FWIW, I do a lot on line, and while postal is slow, the mail always seems to end up on your doorstep.

Having been a Scubapro fanboy since my 1972 Mk5/ balanced adjustable (which I still have and works great), I have stayed with the brand throughout. My “current” reg is a Mk15/G250 from the mid 90’s. Still functions like new after service, and I feel no need to stray... Well, I did a few years ago. I bought an Atomic SS1 stainless steel, which I took on one trip, and it sits neglected in a gear bag. It is for sale if anyone is interested. Too much bling for me. I retired my 90’s Scubapro Double Black stab jacket a few years ago and bought a Scubapro Hydros back mount. I love this piece of kit, and really appreciate the thought that went into the design. Scuba gear doesn’t really change very much. Any top of the line reg can be bought used for very little, and once serviced will be pretty much new again. ian

Totally agree, Adam. I did toy with the idea of taking my D3S out of mothballs and finding a nice Subal housing for it. Then I gave my head a shake... But it is nice to think that with the march of computer technology, we might be able to remain satisfied with the platforms we have for much, much longer. I know for sure this would make my missus happier:)) ian

I watched the segment with great interest, a thoughtful discussion by Adam and Alex as usual. I tried it out on a couple of files from 2012, taken with my trusty old D2X. 12.2 megapixel files which up-rezzed to 40 something megapixels. They looked really good and I saw no real artefacts. Alex discussed how this was a game changer, in that a lower resolution platform, such as a D300 could become relevant again. This is an exciting concept for sure, but it ignores the fact that resolution is not the only criterion for "progress" in camera design. I currently own a D850, previously D2X, D3, D3X, D800, D810 etc and the march of progress has been undeniable. Not only with respect to resolution, but more importantly, autofocus, and dynamic range of the sensor. These attributes are not part of the Super Resolution algorithm, and are probably much more important that raw resolution. Low light performance and diffraction may be other matters though. I think for photographers just starting out, this may represent a great way into the hobby; buying older gear and housing for a fraction of the price of 'bleeding edge' gear. It might also slow down the arms race to better and newer gear each time a new camera is introduced, if the main improvement is strictly resolution. However, I feel that the D850 is currently at the top of the heap all round. It is hard to imagine much more improvement coming the way of DSLR technology. I am happy to stick with what I've got, and likely will NOT replace this camera in the future. It really seems to be a near perfect tool for the endeavour. Mirrorless may be a completely different matter:)

Focal Point in Colorado have closed permanently. Maybe this? No experience with them personally, but website looks promising https://www.pstechnik.de/services/lens-service Nothing quite like German optics:)

I will give some hard won advice: Only consider 13mm RS lenses that are optically perfect. There is one on eBay right now in Japan that is a pretty good price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIKON-NIKONOS-RS-R-UW-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-13mm-F-2-8-Japan-as-is-100110A/154123513210?hash=item23e27a2d7a:g:NBoAAOSwTmBffHUH Optical system Lens Glass is very clear only in a very small dust. (But of course it does not affect the photos.) It has no tiny fungus. There is very slight haze inside of the rear lens.(No impact when taking a photo) There is very slight balsam separation inside on the edge of the rear lens. Please purchase after checking the photo inside the lens. If you are concerned, please maintain it. I bought one of these years ago, and the "balsam separation" turned out to be a crack in the rear lens element probably from being dropped. Fortunately for me, Rene Auman had the element available for sale, and it was a simple matter of changing it out myself, a 5 minute job. It cost me 100 euro for the part, but it was worth many times that to me. If you are requesting pictures of the rear elements, have the vendor remove the rear bayonet filter. If the damage is on the filter, they are easily available, shared in common with the 16mm Nikon fisheye. Nowadays, there are essentially NO repair parts available, so you will be stuck with what you buy:( Ian

I have a D6i mounted on my wrist and a Suunto Vyper mounted on the strobe arm. Both are paired to the same transmitter. I also have a SPG on a short hose bungee'd out of the way but accessible if the tank transmitter fails mid dive, which it has. I do my own "service" of both computers... very simple to do and the cost is only that of a CR2450 battery. Two small screws and you are in. Treat the O ring gently and it can definitely be re-used, just a whiff of O ring grease needed. The battery in the transmitter can also be changed, but requires a specific battery which Suunto sells with an O ring. These are available on eBay. The computer batteries are available at any pharmacy, and I always travel with spares, and a spare transmitter kit. A couple of screws, O ring grease ... Bob's Your Uncle. There are many detailed instructions on The Youtube. Ian

I have gotten a few inquiries for the manual and schematic. I will repost these. Maybe Adam can enshrine them in a permanent place in the archives? nikonos 15mm service manual.pdf

Agree with Tom, it's the same filter that came in a set with the 16mm fisheye. They are readily available on Ebay if you search under the 16mm Fisheye. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-L37C-Bayonet-Filter-AI-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-16mm-f-2-8D-AI-Nikkor-15mm-F3-5S/273515796417?epid=1840600782&hash=item3faecfd7c1:g:ytgAAOSwB9Fbyf1y One of the ones (L37c) in the set is clear glass, and you can cut a small circle of Alex's Magic Filter and place it on the back of the glass. I attached mine with a TINY drop of lacquer at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and it works like, well, Magic:)

Makes the Nikonos RS 13 conversion almost seem "cost effective":)))

I agree with Interceptor... maybe it's a good thing. The cameras we have right now are awesome, and maybe chasing the latest/greatest is a fool's errand, especially given the cost of camera AND housing. Maybe money would be better spent elsewhere, especially post-Covid dollars? I think Covid has taught us all greater patience and tolerance. Maybe "tolerating" what we have is a good thing, (unless your business is selling cameras and housings). To me, the bigger question will be travel to photo destinations. Especially for the land-locked amongst us... ian

That's the largest dome port cover I have ever seen at 1:54:))) What was the shark species? Beautiful work! ian

You need a one inch ball mount, https://www.ulcs.com/index.php/products/universal-adapters