Jump to content

ianmarsh

Member
  • Content Count

    242
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by ianmarsh

  1. I will give some hard won advice: Only consider 13mm RS lenses that are optically perfect. There is one on eBay right now in Japan that is a pretty good price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIKON-NIKONOS-RS-R-UW-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-13mm-F-2-8-Japan-as-is-100110A/154123513210?hash=item23e27a2d7a:g:NBoAAOSwTmBffHUH Optical system Lens Glass is very clear only in a very small dust. (But of course it does not affect the photos.) It has no tiny fungus. There is very slight haze inside of the rear lens.(No impact when taking a photo) There is very slight balsam separation inside on the edge of the rear lens. Please purchase after checking the photo inside the lens. If you are concerned, please maintain it. I bought one of these years ago, and the "balsam separation" turned out to be a crack in the rear lens element probably from being dropped. Fortunately for me, Rene Auman had the element available for sale, and it was a simple matter of changing it out myself, a 5 minute job. It cost me 100 euro for the part, but it was worth many times that to me. If you are requesting pictures of the rear elements, have the vendor remove the rear bayonet filter. If the damage is on the filter, they are easily available, shared in common with the 16mm Nikon fisheye. Nowadays, there are essentially NO repair parts available, so you will be stuck with what you buy:( Ian
  2. I have a D6i mounted on my wrist and a Suunto Vyper mounted on the strobe arm. Both are paired to the same transmitter. I also have a SPG on a short hose bungee'd out of the way but accessible if the tank transmitter fails mid dive, which it has. I do my own "service" of both computers... very simple to do and the cost is only that of a CR2450 battery. Two small screws and you are in. Treat the O ring gently and it can definitely be re-used, just a whiff of O ring grease needed. The battery in the transmitter can also be changed, but requires a specific battery which Suunto sells with an O ring. These are available on eBay. The computer batteries are available at any pharmacy, and I always travel with spares, and a spare transmitter kit. A couple of screws, O ring grease ... Bob's Your Uncle. There are many detailed instructions on The Youtube. Ian
  3. I have gotten a few inquiries for the manual and schematic. I will repost these. Maybe Adam can enshrine them in a permanent place in the archives? nikonos 15mm service manual.pdf
  4. Agree with Tom, it's the same filter that came in a set with the 16mm fisheye. They are readily available on Ebay if you search under the 16mm Fisheye. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-L37C-Bayonet-Filter-AI-AF-Fisheye-Nikkor-16mm-f-2-8D-AI-Nikkor-15mm-F3-5S/273515796417?epid=1840600782&hash=item3faecfd7c1:g:ytgAAOSwB9Fbyf1y One of the ones (L37c) in the set is clear glass, and you can cut a small circle of Alex's Magic Filter and place it on the back of the glass. I attached mine with a TINY drop of lacquer at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and it works like, well, Magic:)
  5. Makes the Nikonos RS 13 conversion almost seem "cost effective":)))
  6. I agree with Interceptor... maybe it's a good thing. The cameras we have right now are awesome, and maybe chasing the latest/greatest is a fool's errand, especially given the cost of camera AND housing. Maybe money would be better spent elsewhere, especially post-Covid dollars? I think Covid has taught us all greater patience and tolerance. Maybe "tolerating" what we have is a good thing, (unless your business is selling cameras and housings). To me, the bigger question will be travel to photo destinations. Especially for the land-locked amongst us... ian
  7. That's the largest dome port cover I have ever seen at 1:54:))) What was the shark species? Beautiful work! ian
  8. You need a one inch ball mount, https://www.ulcs.com/index.php/products/universal-adapters
  9. Oops... Just noticed the post has been edited and the flooded gear is no longer listed:( ian
  10. Hi Pavel Hope you are well:) Could you post a few pictures of the flooded 13mm, especially the front and rear glass? Thanks ian
  11. Totally agree... peer review is the only valid way of validating claims and Biorxiv is not...
  12. I think Interceptor 121 may be correct... this might be a long process, but maybe something good will come of it. The world does generally seem to be coming together and maybe there are long term lessons we can learn for this, in many areas of human interaction. That said, and not trying to be unrealistic, but the SARS outbreak lead to rapid escalation of research activity, and bypassing of some regulations. (It's too bad we didn't learn long term lessons from that outbreak!).This is not without some risk, but people are pretty smart these days. I have confidence that the scientific community will get ahead of this. I saw this: https://www.biorxiv.org/content/10.1101/2020.03.11.987958v1 This type of "treatment" may serve as a bridge until a full-on vaccine is on the shelf. One of many areas of investigation:) Fingers washed and crossed!!
  13. This is the single most useful aggregation of factual information I have found so far: https://ourworldindata.org/coronavirus
  14. Boletus Sobering indeed.... I just heard a CBC program on the situation in Lombardy and other parts of Northern Italy. It sounds very dire. The head of the Italian society of critical care was interviewed. His comment was the only control measure that will have any real effect is "social distancing". Forget the masks until you are infected, and gloves are of no use at all....False sense of security and possibly makes things worse. Wash your hands, but most importantly stay away from close contact with unknown people and stay away from mass gatherings... Fingers crossed for the affected people in Italy, and a cautionary tale for the rest of the world. This is NOT the 'flu' or a 'bad cold', despite what conspiracy theorists will say. In the end, concern about cancelled basketball games and cancelled dive trips will seem banal. ian
  15. The point of government action is not to eliminate new cases, but to flatten the curve. It’s all about the Rate of Rise of the transmission curve, so that we do not swamp the health care system. That is what is going to kill people. All humans on the planet have a responsibility to each other, and especially the elderly and compromised, to do their part as governments direct. There are lots more smart people running the show than Youtubers, Facebookers, Tweeters and the like. As a recently retired physician, my provincial medical licensing body has put me on notice I may be called back into service if the shit really hits the fan.... ian
  16. Let me see if I have the concepts straight: In a system using a Nikon DSLR in a Nauticam housing with #11031-HSS (for Nikon) installed, with Retra pro, the UW Technics board works as the interface between camera and strobe. This serves the same function as the circuit in a Nikon Speedlight that makes it Nikon, or in a Seacam strobe specified for Nikon. 1) The Retra is "Brand Agnostic" in the sense it can be used on all camera platforms as long as there is a controller available for that brand. Otherwise it is a simple manual strobe. 2) TTL is controlled via the installed board, which communicates between the camera and strobe, based on profiles written by Pavel. These would be different from the Nikon Speedlight profiles, as they are determined by the characteristics of the flash tube output, which are unique to the strobe. The profile must also take into account the method used by the camera firmware to generate and interpret the pre-flash data returning from the subject to calculate the main exposure flash. This is also unique to the camera brand. 3) HSS is pretty straightforward from the conceptual side. I would presume that other camera brands would be slightly different, depending on how the shutter curtains work, if they have this option, but the main concept holds for all brands. 4) The Smart SL feature on Retra is a way to bypass the TTL underwater if you choose to shoot manual, once the board is set up for TTL and the housing closed. It ignores the pre-flash TTL pulses and just fires the strobe. Output will be dependent on the power setting on the back of the strobe. Not sure if this thinking is correct? 5) Not sure what would happen if the Retra strobe was set at the "Manual" on position #1 and the TTL board was set in TTL mode? Would it accomplish the same thing as 4) above? Since I don't have the UW Technics board as yet I am trying to understand how all this will work, before taking it under water. If anyone has comments or corrections of the thinking, please weigh in:) Shout out to Pavel and Oskar for their considerable efforts and intellect in making this system a reality. Anyway, hoping to put all this into practice in Anilao with the Reef boys in April, Covid-19 permitting.... ian
  17. I will say that with the mantas, I sometimes had problems getting away from them... they would swim over top of you and stop. They would settle down on top of you, expecting to be cleaned. Strobes came in well here to light the beautiful white underbelly:)
  18. Retra V1 I had hoped to use continuous light for rapid sequence, dolphins etc. Nowhere near enough light for that. Humpback mother and calf... did not approach, all the usual suspects every dive, whale sharks, one tiger shark. The boat had a resident videographer called Adil who produced an amazing video for the trip... well worth the money for me as I don't do any useful video. But I will say if you were diving near him, you were always in the thick of the action... ian
  19. Stu I did Socorro last April on the Nautilus Explorer and had the same concerns... great trip by the way. It was my first venture into this type of trip. My plan was to use continuous light with a pair of Sola 3800 lumen video lights. I did about three dives with that set up and switched to strobes for the duration. There was nowhere near enough light for stills. The dives tended to be deep (100ft) and the visibility was not great. Also the diving was "heavy" with lots of gear and thicker wetsuits than I am used to. Keeping as streamlined as possible was key to keeping gas consumption under control. I usually ran out before my non-photo buddies. I pretty much did the whole trip with my 13mm Nikonos RS. I used the Superdome on a couple of dives with the 8-15mm FE but noticed way more drag when swimming. Also, heads up on the customs scam at the Cabo airport. I got dinged for my housing and strobes. Having said all that, the boat and crew were awesome, and the marine life spectacular:) ian
  20. Thanks for the replies So, do I have this right? Smart SL is a means of switching between TTL and Manual flash mode (Nikon D850 and UW Technics TTL Nauticam) without changing the selector dial on the TTL board? I have only ever shot manual before, so this is new territory to me. ian
  21. So, I've got my head wrapped around the HSS mode and it definitely seems like a good addition, but for the life of me I'm stumped as to what Smart SL mode is for and when I need to use it. Anyone care to explain? ian
  22. Still Available: Subal Flatport 90, Type 3, perfect condition. $100  Subal Flatport 120/3, 9/10, glass perfect condition. $100 Subal Extension EXR 33mm/3. $50 Subal Extension EXR 40mm/3. $50 Seacam Superdome, one small scratch in glass which has been polished , so no sharp edges, no effect no image. Does not show up on under/overs. Comes with spare lens shade, in a Cinebags case, minimal wear on anodizing. $650 Nikonos 15mm, Gen2, rebuilt & pressure tested, excellent optics, Excellent condition in box $375 Nikonos External Viewfinder for 15mm, Gen2 new in box. $75 Nikon 16-35mm F4, Excellent condition. In box will all the bits and pieces. Perfect glass. $750 Pictures on request. Shipping extra. All prices in USD. Located in beautiful Vernon BC Canada As always, honest straight forward sales, so no worries:) ian
×
×
  • Create New...