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ianmarsh

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Everything posted by ianmarsh

  1. Alex Your points are well taken There is a certain sense of self-congratulation by owners of this lens... once you spend the money required to purchase and convert this lens, you had BETTER be happy:) I think for me part of the attraction is the form factor. I don't own a Superdome, but I find the 13mm very easy to handle, both from size and bouyancy considerations. It doesn't take up much room in the camera backpack either. I've never been in a shark cage, like Matt, but I believe it would be easier to handle this optic in close quarters over a large dome set-up. Especially the retreat:) I have only really used my 20-35mm in the pool. It is very sharp indeed. Now, that's not so easy with rectilinears. I did take it to Bonaire last Feb but at that time I was using it in a Nauticam. I had a gear adapter made by a local machinist. Due to the very forward position of the Seacam gear relative to the Nauticam pinion, while it would zoom on land, once the housing compressed, the gear adapter would bind and became inoperable.... So, I replaced the Nauticam with a Seacam D800. The zoom works perfectly in the pool. I will see how it performs in the Solomons in Nov and report back:) Ian
  2. Matt Probably not going to get much love on this topic as it's such a rare bird... But I will throw in my two cents. I have a Nikonos R-UW 13mm converted by Seacam as well as the R-UW Zoom 20-35mm. Both are beautifully executed pieces of gear. I have used the 13mm without any problems in a Nauticam housing with a Seacam port adapter. Small, compact with stunning image quality at pretty much all apertures. Razor sharp corners. The 20-35mm is more problematic in a Nauticam set up due to the integrated proprietary zoom gear. Image quality is superb (in the pool) for a rectilinear zoom, and this is much harder to replicate with a terrestrial lens and dome. Razor sharp corners at f5.6 aperture and above. Some have commented this is not a really useable focal length, but I believe it should be ideal for fish portraits and small to medium size subjects. I am really excited to use this lens. I love these lenses so much I sold my Nauticam system and purchased a Seacam for my D800. The zoom function works perfectly in this housing. I really believe these water corrected optics are the way to go, but sadly the used market on these lenses is not kind, with asking prices of $4000 plus for a twenty-five year old lens that doesn't work out of the box. I agree with your comments about the "look" of these lenses. It is hard to describe, but more akin to a "film" look but with digital sharpness. Haralds conversion at Seacam is brilliant, but quite expensive too. I would die if I flooded one of these beauties:( My other soapbox is the 15mm Nikonos with the Sony A series with a Nauticam adapter. Same Idea, brilliant image quality on a rectilinear set up. Stephen Frink's excellent 1990's book "Wonders of the Reef" is an excellent resource, as most of the images were taken with these three lenses. Apart from the 90's neon wetsuits, it still rings true today. I am off to the Solomons in November and am planning on taking the Nikonos trio as my wide option only. Really all I give up are under/overs. Sort of a "Digital Nikonos" trip I will let you know how that goes. ian
  3. Sadly, I must agree. Early optimism dashed on the rocks of reason... I bet it will fit in the housing, and 10% of the controls will randomly push on a button Not really good enough (sigh). ian
  4. Great news! "The Beast" has been announced. Clearly early days, but I would offer the following published dimensions for consideration: D850 146 x 124 x 78.5mm D800 146 x 123 x 81.5mm D810 146 x 123 x 82mm Obviously, there are many other very detailed considerations regarding functionality, but at least, it looks like the D850 MIGHT FIT in existing housings. That's a start:) The thickness of the body might be the most important dimension, given the new touch screen and ability to latch the housing, and in this regard, we might be in luck. The prism looks lower than the old pop-up flash of the older generations. Time will tell and fingers crossed. Any smarter people want to weigh in? ian
  5. Sold! Thanks for your interest ian
  6. Full offer accepted, sale pending.... Ian
  7. Dan Is this it? http://reefphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=pre_own&cpID=1403 ian
  8. Hello All, Up for sale is a nice pair of Sea and Sea YS-D1 Strobes Both are in excellent condition with approximately 40 dives in tropical water Never flooded, well maintained. No scratches. Always dove in thin neoprene jacket with diffusers on the front. Optically triggered. Includes all original items except the box. $800 USD for the pair Photos and more info on request. ianmarsh@icloud.com Located in Vernon BC Canada
  9. All Nauticam gear is SOLD with exception of Seacam adapter. All other items still available. ian
  10. Greetings all! Up for sale is my trusty Nauticam ND800 V2 accessories, Subal Type 3 Macro ports, accessories and Nikonos odds and ends. If interested, contact me for more info or pictures. Items are in top condition, well maintained, and never flooded ianmarsh@icloud.com Vernon BC Canada Nauticam Condition Status Nauticam ND800 V2 Housing $2000 9.5/10 Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder $900 10/10 Nauticam D800 Flash Trigger $175 10/10 Nauticam Macro Port Nikon 105G$375 9.5/10, glass perfect Nauticam Port Adapter, Subal T3 $175 10/10, 9/10 Nauticam Port Adapter, Seacam $200 10/10 Subal MacroPort 90, Type 3 $250 10/10 MacroPort 120, Type 3 $275 9/10, glass perfect Port Extension, 33mm Type 3 $150 10/10 Port Extension, 40mm Type 3 $150 10/10 Zoom Gear Nikon 20-35 2.8 $75 10/10 Nikonos SB 105 x 2 $50 ea 9.5/10, 9.5/10 Nikonos Cable x 2 $75 ea 10/10 Nikonos Cable, Dual $100 10/10
  11. Summer Vacation, no one at the shop?
  12. I have been using a Nikonos RS 13mm (adapted by Seacam), and used with a Seacam to Nauticam port adapter on a Nauticam ND800. Works amazingly well with excellent corner sharpness at pretty much any aperture. Of course it is a fisheye, not a rectilinear. Also, the Nikonos 15mm on the Sony A7 series is incredibly sharp, and IS a rectilinear lens. Love those old, purpose built optics:) Ian
  13. Lens is sold! Thanks all for looking
  14. For sale is an extremely rare Nikonos R-UW 13mm Fisheye. Serial Number 500628. This lens is in excellent condition. The glass is near pristine front and back. There are no marks on the glass I am able to photograph. No evidence of fungus or lens separation of any kind. I cannot see any dust inside the lens. The rear lens mount is perfect with no brassing. The O ring and groove are perfect. All electrical contacts are clean. Rear filter perfect. Iris lever moves smoothly. Front and rear caps are in excellent condition. I do not have an RS body to test, but the LED on the distance scale illuminates when mounted on my D810 body and good images are obtained. (These are slightly out of focus as this is a dedicated UW optic.) This lens can be modified by Harald Hordosch at Seacam to work with modern cameras and housings. I have one modified that I use with a Nauticam ND800 housing with a Nauticam-Seacam port adapter. This works perfectly. Or it can be used with Seacam housings. Alternatively Andrej Belic will convert the lens electronically with a housing adapter, which does not split the lens into two components. Gates underwater housings will allow adaptation to some its housings. It can be used natively with Nikonos RS SLR bodies. Unfortunately I cannot attest to waterproofness as is, but see no issues to suggest it is not. There are some superficial scuffs on the lens shade and a few scratches of the body paint. I would rate this lens a solid 9.5. Additional photos on request. Contact: ianmarsh@icloud.com Located in Vernon, BC, Canada $2500 USD, shipping included
  15. Reef Photo has a couple in the used section ian
  16. This saga turns into an international thriller! The lens was purchased fro Japan. It was described as having "some moisture." Turns out the original problem was separation of the two rear elements due to a crack in the glass! I sent this to Focal Point Lens Repair in Superior Colorado. John Van Stelten was able to disassemble the lens, but on heating to separate the elements, the front element cracked. (He had told me ahead of time this was a 10% risk.) All this rendered the lens useless... but to the rescue came Rene Aumann in Salz Germany. He was able to provide the element group in its mount, in perfect condition. At a reasonable price too. It must be the only spare part on earth. So now all is good:) The lens was modified by Harald Hordosch at Seacam, and I am using it on a Nauticam D800 housing with a Nauticam - Seacam port adapter. The combination works perfectly! Scary times with $4500 invested This must be the most travelled lens on the planet.
  17. ianmarsh

    Is it safe?

    Never had a problem with Wetpixel and almost none on eBay (due to escrow system) Just got totally burned trying to buy off of a guy on Craigslist in Glasgow Scotland to the tune of 1300 Pounds Sterling. Listing for Nikonos gear is still active:( Now in the hands of RCMP, Scottish Police and Thames Police. Not holding out much hope, but I hope they take this guy down. I thought I had done due diligence with photos, email etc. Live and learn I guess. ian
  18. I bought a beater 15mm Nikonos UW to see how it ticks. It is elegant in its simplicity compared to modern lenses. To work on it you need a small philips, small flat blade screwdriver, and an adjustable lens spanner with points. This is a specialty item, and available on Amazon. Don't try and remove the front glass without the proper tool... you will fail. Really only the control shaft "o" rings need to be replaced. These can be sourced on the internet from a fellow in France for a few dollars. The three big "o"rings behind the front glass and the acrylic window are not really "o" rings but compression gaskets. In order to replace the shaft "o"rings you need to strip the lens down to its underwear. That is, completely disassemble the lens mechanically. This is not hard, but take photos and make notes as you go. Be carefull not to damage the large gasket "o"rings, you will have to reuse them. THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE ANYWHERE. Some penetrating oil on the retaining ring (with the engraved writing) for the front glass is wise, but not much. Same for the tiny screws holding the shaft knobs on. These can be a deal breaker if corroded on. You may be able to sacrifice a 28mm lens for its knobs and screws. Also be really careful removing the six spring loaded screws at the back. If you strip these you wreck the aluminum body of the lens. Same goes for the six philips screws that hold the front lens element /sunshade to the body. Corrosion can be a problem with these screws. Remove the 2 control knobs with six TINY set screws. These may have a coat of laquer over the heads. They are super delicate. Remove the front glass retainer first. Don't ding the glass.. you can't replace this. Remove the front half (Sunshade) with the six philips screws. These are 2mm x 4mm. I replace these with SS socket head cap screws which are available at a bolt supply house, likely special order. Remove the six rear spring loaded screws with a small flat screwdriver. These are delicate. Remove the front lens element inside the dome with a lens spanner. That will allow the main optical body to slide out the back. I believe the knobs must be set at f/2.8 and infinity for the control tabs to line up and fall out. I recommend vinyl gloves when handling the optics to keep grease off them. Dismantle the inner mechanics completely down to the back wall of the housing. Work slowly and photograph or make notes of this. When you get to the back wall look out for a tiny spring and ball that sits in a recess and provides the click for the aperture scale. Push the control shafts back into the housing and remove the 'O'rings from the outer seat. Note which shaft goes where, as they are different lengths. Clean everything of old grease. I used alcohol wipes to do this but DON'T LET ALCOHOL TOUCH THE ACRYLIC WINDOW. It will wreck it. Reassemble: Use Nikonos grease on the new shaft "o"rings. The shaft is passed through the housing and "o" ring and the knob replaced pushing the gear from the inside. This is why you cant just replace the "o"ring from the outside. I use a tiny coating of white lithium bicycle grease ( I like Campagnolo) to lubricate the mechanicals, but only a trace. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take your time and it is actually fun. Use a thin layer of Nikonos grease on the "o" ring gaskets, just until they are shiny. Any locktite inside can be replaced with a dab of nail polish or touch up lacquer. Make sure you get the right knob on the right shaft, or you'll be tearing it apart again (I did). Use a small drop of laquer on the screw heads of the shaft lockscrews and note the orientation of the screws relative to the flats on the shaft. The screw positioning is assymetrical. When you replace the six screws that hold the front element/sun shade, watch the orientation of the shade. It goes with the sun shade projections at the 12 and 6 oclock position. Place the lens face down and preload the body with a bit of downward pressure as you tighten the six philips screws or the SS socket head capscrew replacements. This takes a bit of the load off the threads as this is a delicate area, and may have some corrosion already. Also I use a tiny bit of Lanocoat on all external threaded fasteners, as well as the six spring loaded screws in the back.. Anyway. That's my experience. No guarantees, but a fun way to spend a winter afternoon thinking about your next trip.
  19. Nikonos RS 20-35mm f/2.8 Zoom, $500 plus shipping In good overall condition. The lens has lots of internal dust, zoom operates smoothly. LED in focus window lights up when mounted on D810. Lens mount is in excellent shape. Front glass has some very subtle marks, unlikely to be a problem in contact with water. Rear glass is perfect. I have no RS body to test with, but does take images in air at infinity, at f/22. (Remember, this lens is water corrected and will only focus sharply in water.) I have no way of confirming waterproof status as is. Lens caps are functional. These are getting harder to find by the day, especially at a reasonable price. This lens would be an ideal candidate for SEACAM conversion. The interior dust would be cleaned out during the remanufacturing process. It could also be serviced and used intact with a Gates adapter for cinema work. As an aside, I recently converted my Nikonos RS 13mm through SEACAM. The service was excellent and the final product stellar. I am using it on a Nauticam ND810 housing with a Nauticam/Seacam port adapter. It works great! ian
  20. Hi Tom Do you still have the 20-35 available? ian
  21. Thanks all I have sent this off to Harald Hordosch at Seacam and they will look at this while doing the Seacam conversion. The other thought I have after looking at the patent drawings is that this could represent failure of the lens cement due to cleaning solution leaking between the layers. Apparently the glued elements can be separated, cleaned and re-cemented. I will post the outcome when the lens returns from the spa. ian
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