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ianmarsh

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Everything posted by ianmarsh

  1. Hello All, Up for sale is a nice pair of Sea and Sea YS-D1 Strobes Both are in excellent condition with approximately 40 dives in tropical water Never flooded, well maintained. No scratches. Always dove in thin neoprene jacket with diffusers on the front. Optically triggered. Includes all original items except the box. $800 USD for the pair Photos and more info on request. ianmarsh@icloud.com Located in Vernon BC Canada
  2. All Nauticam gear is SOLD with exception of Seacam adapter. All other items still available. ian
  3. Greetings all! Up for sale is my trusty Nauticam ND800 V2 accessories, Subal Type 3 Macro ports, accessories and Nikonos odds and ends. If interested, contact me for more info or pictures. Items are in top condition, well maintained, and never flooded ianmarsh@icloud.com Vernon BC Canada Nauticam Condition Status Nauticam ND800 V2 Housing $2000 9.5/10 Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder $900 10/10 Nauticam D800 Flash Trigger $175 10/10 Nauticam Macro Port Nikon 105G$375 9.5/10, glass perfect Nauticam Port Adapter, Subal T3 $175 10/10, 9/10 Nauticam Port Adapter, Seacam $200 10/10 Subal MacroPort 90, Type 3 $250 10/10 MacroPort 120, Type 3 $275 9/10, glass perfect Port Extension, 33mm Type 3 $150 10/10 Port Extension, 40mm Type 3 $150 10/10 Zoom Gear Nikon 20-35 2.8 $75 10/10 Nikonos SB 105 x 2 $50 ea 9.5/10, 9.5/10 Nikonos Cable x 2 $75 ea 10/10 Nikonos Cable, Dual $100 10/10
  4. Summer Vacation, no one at the shop?
  5. I have been using a Nikonos RS 13mm (adapted by Seacam), and used with a Seacam to Nauticam port adapter on a Nauticam ND800. Works amazingly well with excellent corner sharpness at pretty much any aperture. Of course it is a fisheye, not a rectilinear. Also, the Nikonos 15mm on the Sony A7 series is incredibly sharp, and IS a rectilinear lens. Love those old, purpose built optics:) Ian
  6. Lens is sold! Thanks all for looking
  7. For sale is an extremely rare Nikonos R-UW 13mm Fisheye. Serial Number 500628. This lens is in excellent condition. The glass is near pristine front and back. There are no marks on the glass I am able to photograph. No evidence of fungus or lens separation of any kind. I cannot see any dust inside the lens. The rear lens mount is perfect with no brassing. The O ring and groove are perfect. All electrical contacts are clean. Rear filter perfect. Iris lever moves smoothly. Front and rear caps are in excellent condition. I do not have an RS body to test, but the LED on the distance scale illuminates when mounted on my D810 body and good images are obtained. (These are slightly out of focus as this is a dedicated UW optic.) This lens can be modified by Harald Hordosch at Seacam to work with modern cameras and housings. I have one modified that I use with a Nauticam ND800 housing with a Nauticam-Seacam port adapter. This works perfectly. Or it can be used with Seacam housings. Alternatively Andrej Belic will convert the lens electronically with a housing adapter, which does not split the lens into two components. Gates underwater housings will allow adaptation to some its housings. It can be used natively with Nikonos RS SLR bodies. Unfortunately I cannot attest to waterproofness as is, but see no issues to suggest it is not. There are some superficial scuffs on the lens shade and a few scratches of the body paint. I would rate this lens a solid 9.5. Additional photos on request. Contact: ianmarsh@icloud.com Located in Vernon, BC, Canada $2500 USD, shipping included
  8. Reef Photo has a couple in the used section ian
  9. This saga turns into an international thriller! The lens was purchased fro Japan. It was described as having "some moisture." Turns out the original problem was separation of the two rear elements due to a crack in the glass! I sent this to Focal Point Lens Repair in Superior Colorado. John Van Stelten was able to disassemble the lens, but on heating to separate the elements, the front element cracked. (He had told me ahead of time this was a 10% risk.) All this rendered the lens useless... but to the rescue came Rene Aumann in Salz Germany. He was able to provide the element group in its mount, in perfect condition. At a reasonable price too. It must be the only spare part on earth. So now all is good:) The lens was modified by Harald Hordosch at Seacam, and I am using it on a Nauticam D800 housing with a Nauticam - Seacam port adapter. The combination works perfectly! Scary times with $4500 invested This must be the most travelled lens on the planet.
  10. ianmarsh

    Is it safe?

    Never had a problem with Wetpixel and almost none on eBay (due to escrow system) Just got totally burned trying to buy off of a guy on Craigslist in Glasgow Scotland to the tune of 1300 Pounds Sterling. Listing for Nikonos gear is still active:( Now in the hands of RCMP, Scottish Police and Thames Police. Not holding out much hope, but I hope they take this guy down. I thought I had done due diligence with photos, email etc. Live and learn I guess. ian
  11. I bought a beater 15mm Nikonos UW to see how it ticks. It is elegant in its simplicity compared to modern lenses. To work on it you need a small philips, small flat blade screwdriver, and an adjustable lens spanner with points. This is a specialty item, and available on Amazon. Don't try and remove the front glass without the proper tool... you will fail. Really only the control shaft "o" rings need to be replaced. These can be sourced on the internet from a fellow in France for a few dollars. The three big "o"rings behind the front glass and the acrylic window are not really "o" rings but compression gaskets. In order to replace the shaft "o"rings you need to strip the lens down to its underwear. That is, completely disassemble the lens mechanically. This is not hard, but take photos and make notes as you go. Be carefull not to damage the large gasket "o"rings, you will have to reuse them. THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE ANYWHERE. Some penetrating oil on the retaining ring (with the engraved writing) for the front glass is wise, but not much. Same for the tiny screws holding the shaft knobs on. These can be a deal breaker if corroded on. You may be able to sacrifice a 28mm lens for its knobs and screws. Also be really careful removing the six spring loaded screws at the back. If you strip these you wreck the aluminum body of the lens. Same goes for the six philips screws that hold the front lens element /sunshade to the body. Corrosion can be a problem with these screws. Remove the 2 control knobs with six TINY set screws. These may have a coat of laquer over the heads. They are super delicate. Remove the front glass retainer first. Don't ding the glass.. you can't replace this. Remove the front half (Sunshade) with the six philips screws. These are 2mm x 4mm. I replace these with SS socket head cap screws which are available at a bolt supply house, likely special order. Remove the six rear spring loaded screws with a small flat screwdriver. These are delicate. Remove the front lens element inside the dome with a lens spanner. That will allow the main optical body to slide out the back. I believe the knobs must be set at f/2.8 and infinity for the control tabs to line up and fall out. I recommend vinyl gloves when handling the optics to keep grease off them. Dismantle the inner mechanics completely down to the back wall of the housing. Work slowly and photograph or make notes of this. When you get to the back wall look out for a tiny spring and ball that sits in a recess and provides the click for the aperture scale. Push the control shafts back into the housing and remove the 'O'rings from the outer seat. Note which shaft goes where, as they are different lengths. Clean everything of old grease. I used alcohol wipes to do this but DON'T LET ALCOHOL TOUCH THE ACRYLIC WINDOW. It will wreck it. Reassemble: Use Nikonos grease on the new shaft "o"rings. The shaft is passed through the housing and "o" ring and the knob replaced pushing the gear from the inside. This is why you cant just replace the "o"ring from the outside. I use a tiny coating of white lithium bicycle grease ( I like Campagnolo) to lubricate the mechanicals, but only a trace. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take your time and it is actually fun. Use a thin layer of Nikonos grease on the "o" ring gaskets, just until they are shiny. Any locktite inside can be replaced with a dab of nail polish or touch up lacquer. Make sure you get the right knob on the right shaft, or you'll be tearing it apart again (I did). Use a small drop of laquer on the screw heads of the shaft lockscrews and note the orientation of the screws relative to the flats on the shaft. The screw positioning is assymetrical. When you replace the six screws that hold the front element/sun shade, watch the orientation of the shade. It goes with the sun shade projections at the 12 and 6 oclock position. Place the lens face down and preload the body with a bit of downward pressure as you tighten the six philips screws or the SS socket head capscrew replacements. This takes a bit of the load off the threads as this is a delicate area, and may have some corrosion already. Also I use a tiny bit of Lanocoat on all external threaded fasteners, as well as the six spring loaded screws in the back.. Anyway. That's my experience. No guarantees, but a fun way to spend a winter afternoon thinking about your next trip.
  12. Nikonos RS 20-35mm f/2.8 Zoom, $500 plus shipping In good overall condition. The lens has lots of internal dust, zoom operates smoothly. LED in focus window lights up when mounted on D810. Lens mount is in excellent shape. Front glass has some very subtle marks, unlikely to be a problem in contact with water. Rear glass is perfect. I have no RS body to test with, but does take images in air at infinity, at f/22. (Remember, this lens is water corrected and will only focus sharply in water.) I have no way of confirming waterproof status as is. Lens caps are functional. These are getting harder to find by the day, especially at a reasonable price. This lens would be an ideal candidate for SEACAM conversion. The interior dust would be cleaned out during the remanufacturing process. It could also be serviced and used intact with a Gates adapter for cinema work. As an aside, I recently converted my Nikonos RS 13mm through SEACAM. The service was excellent and the final product stellar. I am using it on a Nauticam ND810 housing with a Nauticam/Seacam port adapter. It works great! ian
  13. Hi Tom Do you still have the 20-35 available? ian
  14. Thanks all I have sent this off to Harald Hordosch at Seacam and they will look at this while doing the Seacam conversion. The other thought I have after looking at the patent drawings is that this could represent failure of the lens cement due to cleaning solution leaking between the layers. Apparently the glued elements can be separated, cleaned and re-cemented. I will post the outcome when the lens returns from the spa. ian
  15. Thanks Saga 7. Good tip:) Tried Mike... No joy ian
  16. Does anyone know of a repair facility that could clean, and repair the coating on the rear element of this lens. Or better yet replace it. May be corrosion of the coating or less likely fungus. It's not on the L37C filter Its in otherwise excellent condition. It's too old for Nikon to be bothered with it:( ian
  17. Hi Cod The adapters are 1 inch balls and are compatible with all arms using that system and clamps, TLC, ULCS, Nauticam, iDas etc. I don't have arms for sale, but these adaptors are NOT compatible with the old Nikonos arm connectors. They used a proprietary Nikon clamp. Ian
  18. Sorry, ball adapters for Nikonos 105 strobes are TLC, not ULCS:( ian
  19. Happy New Year to all! My New Year resolution is to clear out old gear not being used anymore:) I have for sale: 2) Nikonos 105 strobes, like new condition, includes all caps and diffusers. O rings stored separately. Never flooded. Includes ULCS ball adapters. $130 each, $250 for both. 2) Nikonos sync cables. Like new, never flooded. $50 each 2) Nikonos double sync cables. Like new, never flooded. $80 each Pictures as requested, but they look like all other Nikonos strobes and cables. Items in Vernon, BC Canada ian
  20. Can anyone help with this? My imaging chain is as follows: Myopic eye -> single vision, -2.5 corrective lens in right side of mask -> Nauticam V/F with diopter adjustment -> camera V/F with diopter adjustment -> lens -> port -> water My vision is good close up with no correction, so I need my left eye to see the camera back monitor and controls. My accommodation is very poor closeup with corrective lenses. My questions are: (1) Is there an optimal way of setting this up, given 2 adjustment points (camera V/F and Nauticam V/F) (2) Do you have any suggestions re: bifocal lenses for mask. I would love to have corrected vision and still be able to see the camera controls. Thanks in advance:) Ian
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