Jump to content

ianmarsh

Member
  • Content Count

    240
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by ianmarsh

  1. Happy New Year to all! My New Year resolution is to clear out old gear not being used anymore:) I have for sale: 2) Nikonos 105 strobes, like new condition, includes all caps and diffusers. O rings stored separately. Never flooded. Includes ULCS ball adapters. $130 each, $250 for both. 2) Nikonos sync cables. Like new, never flooded. $50 each 2) Nikonos double sync cables. Like new, never flooded. $80 each Pictures as requested, but they look like all other Nikonos strobes and cables. Items in Vernon, BC Canada ian
  2. Can anyone help with this? My imaging chain is as follows: Myopic eye -> single vision, -2.5 corrective lens in right side of mask -> Nauticam V/F with diopter adjustment -> camera V/F with diopter adjustment -> lens -> port -> water My vision is good close up with no correction, so I need my left eye to see the camera back monitor and controls. My accommodation is very poor closeup with corrective lenses. My questions are: (1) Is there an optimal way of setting this up, given 2 adjustment points (camera V/F and Nauticam V/F) (2) Do you have any suggestions re: bifocal lenses for mask. I would love to have corrected vision and still be able to see the camera controls. Thanks in advance:) Ian
  3. I took this in a pool a few weeks ago: Sony A7, Nauticam NA-A7, Nauticam 180 viewfinder, Nikonos 15mm Apparent distance 1 foot (measured), f/11, 160 second, Manual Mode, Auto ISO @ 200 Focused with Focus Peaking. I was looking for corner sharpness with rectilinear lens, avoiding use of a large dome. (I had a little trouble getting the target flat due to spacing of the suction cups vs grout lines. The grout in the corners may be the best indicator of sharpness. I can't post a JPEG larger than 1000kb) I was looking for a relatively lightweight, rectilinear wide angle travel rig. The orange discolouration is sunlight filtered through forest fire smoke, filtered through pool water:( Looking for opinions, suggestions, comments and discussion:)
  4. Sorry all That missing post was mine..It was sent as a PM as it was off topic of the thread ian
  5. For Sale Subal ND3 housing in immaculate condition. Used only in fresh water for testing, never been in the sea. Includes legendary GS 180 viewfinder. Dual Nikonos bulkheads. Moisture detector. For use with Nikon D3 or D3X. (D3S will fit but loss of functionality). Type 3 port adapter installed but also includes Type 4. Will include O ring rebuild kit for ND2 fwiw. No scratches or marks of any kind. Also includes Backscatter Airlock vacuum fitting for peace of mind (bulkhead shown in picture #3). Also have two Nikonos SB 105 strobes and cables, Subal flat port/3 for Nikon 105D, all in near new condition if interested. Located in Vernon BC Canada Asking $2200 USD but will entertain offers. Will split shipping if at asking price.
  6. Lanocote, (available from Backscatter) does the trick with threaded fasteners, before and after the trip.
  7. Any chance this is related to warm humid air condensing in a water cooled housing? Sounds like a bit too much water for that scenario:(
  8. Andy Could you contact me at ianmarsh@icloud.com Paypal invoice to above email?
  9. For sale is a pristeen Subal ND3 for the Nikon D3, D3x. Camera has been sold, so housing now orphaned. Limited use in fresh water, mint condition. Comes with GS 180 viewfinder and Backscatter Airlock vacuum. Nikonos dual bulkheads and moisture alarm. Type 3 and Type 4 Port adapters included Asking $2200, would consider parting viewfinder out ($750) and Airlock ($250). Shipping extra. Would consider trade for 230mm glass dome for Nauticam (Nauticam, Zen) Pictures available on request. Located in Vernon, BC Canada ianmarsh@icloud.com
  10. Not really DSLR/Housing topic, but here goes.... Does anyone out there have any service information on this lens? Specifically rebuild instructions, o ring sizes etc? There don't seem to be a lot of people rebuilding these anymore. I wonder if the o rings could be sourced from other than Nikon. Thanks Ian
  11. I would take this off your hands at that price... where are you located? email: ianmarsh@icloud.com
  12. For sale is a pristine Subal ND3 housing. Works for Nikon D3 or D3X camera. This has the Subal GS 180 viewfinder fitted. Includes dual Nikonos bulkheads. Backscatter vacuum system, and choice of either type 3 or type 4 Subal port adapter. Like new, not a single mark on it. Have pristine D3X with under 10k actuations also if interested Moving platforms. Asking $3200 includes shipping. Photos on request Ian
  13. Doug, Good point, indeed. I have the non electronic version... seems like a solid piece of gear. Very reassuring, but: With that model, a STABLE vacuum reading is critical. If the vacuum is changing, the housing is leaking. If you start out at -10in/Hg and it "drops" to -5in/Hg the absolute value doesn't matter. It doesn't start to leak when it gets to 0in/Hg. The ∆ indicates a leak, and if its leaking air, it is leaking water. The point is, with a non monitored system, stability of the initial reading is key. Don't fool yourself into thinking a small change doesn't matter. It does. However, be aware of temperature/pressure fluctuation. ian
  14. I'm feeling a rain cloud forming over my little parade...
  15. I had a similar event with my ND2 housing. Depending on your strobe set up, you may or may not need all connections. You only need two wires to shoot manual. Can't remember which two, but there is a thread somwhere on Wetpixel regarding the pins and wires... It is an easy repair for someone skilled with a soldering iron. Saves a bundle of cash too! In addition, when I fixed mine, I encased the wires and solder on both sides of the board in clear silicone caulk to provide water resistence and strain relief to the solder joint. Otherwise it is pretty exposed. ian
  16. Does anyone have experience with this older setup? I can't find any specific reference to it. Subal suggests a 40mm extension with the 8 inch FE port and a +2 diopter. When assembled, the lens looks like it sits too far forward in the dome. I am specifically wondering about stacking a 15 + 33. It looks better, but I am wondering if there is anything I am missing. Also is the +2 diopter enough? I'm going to try it in a pool, but looking for advice. Thanks in advance for any input. Ian
  17. I maybe way off base (and somewhat off topic) on this but maybe Bill or someone else with an engineering background could answer: With any of the currently discussed devices (Sentry, Airlock, Hugy) would there be any utility of using a low positive internal pressure to test seal integrity? I am thinking bike pump, 2-3 psi differential and dunk tank looking for bubbles. This might be a useful way localizing leaking seals. Or would this be completely facticious, based on how the o rings are designed to work. It would simulate taking the housing to altitude, and most housings warn against flying with a sealed housing...
×
×
  • Create New...