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ianmarsh

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Everything posted by ianmarsh

  1. Sorry all That missing post was mine..It was sent as a PM as it was off topic of the thread ian
  2. For Sale Subal ND3 housing in immaculate condition. Used only in fresh water for testing, never been in the sea. Includes legendary GS 180 viewfinder. Dual Nikonos bulkheads. Moisture detector. For use with Nikon D3 or D3X. (D3S will fit but loss of functionality). Type 3 port adapter installed but also includes Type 4. Will include O ring rebuild kit for ND2 fwiw. No scratches or marks of any kind. Also includes Backscatter Airlock vacuum fitting for peace of mind (bulkhead shown in picture #3). Also have two Nikonos SB 105 strobes and cables, Subal flat port/3 for Nikon 105D, all in near new condition if interested. Located in Vernon BC Canada Asking $2200 USD but will entertain offers. Will split shipping if at asking price.
  3. Lanocote, (available from Backscatter) does the trick with threaded fasteners, before and after the trip.
  4. Any chance this is related to warm humid air condensing in a water cooled housing? Sounds like a bit too much water for that scenario:(
  5. Andy Could you contact me at ianmarsh@icloud.com Paypal invoice to above email?
  6. For sale is a pristeen Subal ND3 for the Nikon D3, D3x. Camera has been sold, so housing now orphaned. Limited use in fresh water, mint condition. Comes with GS 180 viewfinder and Backscatter Airlock vacuum. Nikonos dual bulkheads and moisture alarm. Type 3 and Type 4 Port adapters included Asking $2200, would consider parting viewfinder out ($750) and Airlock ($250). Shipping extra. Would consider trade for 230mm glass dome for Nauticam (Nauticam, Zen) Pictures available on request. Located in Vernon, BC Canada ianmarsh@icloud.com
  7. Not really DSLR/Housing topic, but here goes.... Does anyone out there have any service information on this lens? Specifically rebuild instructions, o ring sizes etc? There don't seem to be a lot of people rebuilding these anymore. I wonder if the o rings could be sourced from other than Nikon. Thanks Ian
  8. I would take this off your hands at that price... where are you located? email: ianmarsh@icloud.com
  9. For sale is a pristine Subal ND3 housing. Works for Nikon D3 or D3X camera. This has the Subal GS 180 viewfinder fitted. Includes dual Nikonos bulkheads. Backscatter vacuum system, and choice of either type 3 or type 4 Subal port adapter. Like new, not a single mark on it. Have pristine D3X with under 10k actuations also if interested Moving platforms. Asking $3200 includes shipping. Photos on request Ian
  10. Doug, Good point, indeed. I have the non electronic version... seems like a solid piece of gear. Very reassuring, but: With that model, a STABLE vacuum reading is critical. If the vacuum is changing, the housing is leaking. If you start out at -10in/Hg and it "drops" to -5in/Hg the absolute value doesn't matter. It doesn't start to leak when it gets to 0in/Hg. The ∆ indicates a leak, and if its leaking air, it is leaking water. The point is, with a non monitored system, stability of the initial reading is key. Don't fool yourself into thinking a small change doesn't matter. It does. However, be aware of temperature/pressure fluctuation. ian
  11. I'm feeling a rain cloud forming over my little parade...
  12. I had a similar event with my ND2 housing. Depending on your strobe set up, you may or may not need all connections. You only need two wires to shoot manual. Can't remember which two, but there is a thread somwhere on Wetpixel regarding the pins and wires... It is an easy repair for someone skilled with a soldering iron. Saves a bundle of cash too! In addition, when I fixed mine, I encased the wires and solder on both sides of the board in clear silicone caulk to provide water resistence and strain relief to the solder joint. Otherwise it is pretty exposed. ian
  13. Does anyone have experience with this older setup? I can't find any specific reference to it. Subal suggests a 40mm extension with the 8 inch FE port and a +2 diopter. When assembled, the lens looks like it sits too far forward in the dome. I am specifically wondering about stacking a 15 + 33. It looks better, but I am wondering if there is anything I am missing. Also is the +2 diopter enough? I'm going to try it in a pool, but looking for advice. Thanks in advance for any input. Ian
  14. I maybe way off base (and somewhat off topic) on this but maybe Bill or someone else with an engineering background could answer: With any of the currently discussed devices (Sentry, Airlock, Hugy) would there be any utility of using a low positive internal pressure to test seal integrity? I am thinking bike pump, 2-3 psi differential and dunk tank looking for bubbles. This might be a useful way localizing leaking seals. Or would this be completely facticious, based on how the o rings are designed to work. It would simulate taking the housing to altitude, and most housings warn against flying with a sealed housing...
  15. Problem is, you need to spray the solution INSIDE the housing!! I suppose you could put a small positive pressure in with a bike pump and check for bubbles, but that does not mimic how the "o"rings are designed to work. Not sure if this would produce "false positive" results:(
  16. I had the same problem...mine was getting the bulkhead O ring to seat properly due to interference with the housing casting. Is there any interference on your housing?. I used a bicycle torque wrench and snugged mine down to 5 Nm, if that helps. It did cut the threads into the paint on the side of the casting. Of course, it may be that you have another leak elsewhere, but the most likely explanation is the new fitting. Also make sure there is no air leaking around the pump to gauge interface. I used a cork to replace the pump handle while assessing stability of the vacuum. ian
  17. I spoke with Scott at Backscatter. He assured me that all the black fittings are anodized aluminum I have confirmed this by removing my bulkhead and found that where the threads interfere with the casting on my Subal ND3, the threads are now silver. Backscatter has a solution to this interference problem on my housing and will be producing bulkhead fittings that are slightly taller before the threaded portion begins. That will clear the lip on the casting that binds the thread as the bulkhead seats. It will also allow the threaded cap or Airlock fitting to seat completely in the bulkhead which it doesn't currently do on my housing. That should definitively solve this issue on my housing. Ian
  18. I received my Airlock last night and installed it on my Subal ND3. I sent the following feedback email to Sean at backscatter this morning: Sean Some feedback on myAir Lock install last night. Housing is a Subal ND3. Installed the bulkhead fitting with a bit of lube on the o ring. I did not use threadlock. Originally used a crescent wrench. Is the bulkhead fitting made of metal or plastic? The outer threaded part of the fitting was a fraction too wide for the surrounding lip of the housing casting. There was some interference once the fitting threaded in far enough and would not seat the o ring on the mating surface of the housing. My first try yielded a slow leak that would go from -10 to zero in about ten minutes. I disassembled everything, cleaned and regreased and on the second try used an 11/16 socket. The fitting actually cut some threads into the paint of the housing. I got to the original install depth and then gave an extra 1/4 turn until it completely stopped. I reassembled and pulled -10 which held perfectly overnight. This interference may be a one off due to the position of the bulkhead hole relative to the surrounding casting, but knowing Subal, I doubt it. Had I dived the housing it would have leaked. It is important to stress that ANY loss of vacuum indicates a leak. At -10 in/Hg my ports would still rotate but could not be removed. The other point I would make is that when testing the stability of the vacuum, I used a synthetic cork from a wine bottle to plug the hole in the gauge where the pump handle would go, rather than the pump. It is easier to handle and eliminates the possiblity of air leaking from the pump side. You could even throw a cork in with the packaging. FYI my math indicates that -10 in/Hg is equal to 11 FSW or 10 feet of fresh water. The other use of this product is to tell you when your housing needs a rebuild. Apart from the interference problem, everything is perfect. You just need to know it is a potential glitch, and hopefully the paint won't chip off. Great product, no doubt! ian
  19. Sorry I wasn't clear. I want the option of using a D3X and a D3s in the same housing without loss of functionality of either... ian
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