tdphoto

Unfortunately, after two dives with the replacement flash, I have the same problem again. Let's see what the guys from Backscatter have to say about it. I wonder if low water temperature (5 ° C) is a problem for the flash. On the other hand, I had the first flash in the water over 30 - 40 times before the problem occurred.

Nauticam has replaced me an old flooded Float Arm under warranty to the newer blue ringed one.

Hello everybody, Thank you again for your help! Yesterday I received the thick fiber optic cable and immediately tested whether the MF-1 could be triggered without any problems. Conclusion, perfect! Even if the cable is not exactly in the socket, the flash will trigger without any problems. Now I just have to get the appropriate connector. Tino

Backscatter sending me a replacement. Great customer service! The replacement work just fine! Tino

I have tested two different batterys one of them a new one. Green ready light is OK, as soon i go to one of the levels 1-6, the blue LED comes first and after some seconds the red LED starts flashing. No charging Noise.

Hi, I have a problem with my Mini Flash MF-1, from one day to the next the MF-1 no longer flashes and now i have a red LED quick flashing. The manual only says: Flash recycle charging circuit error What can I do? Has anyone had that too? Have already sent an email to Backscater and am still waiting for an answer. Thanks for your help, Tino

Hi, I have a question about the camera mode dail, can you change this settings in the Leo 3 housing on our Sony A7rIII? Chan you change the mode from M to A or to the Movie-Mode? Thanks for your help! Tino

I'm still looking for a cheap way to get Sea & Sea connectors for self-made cables. The plugs should also fit thicker cables up to approx. 4mm. Thanks for your help. Tino

Hi, I've been diving the long-hose configuration for about 2 years now, before I was with a normal configuration and normal BCD in the water. I have now completely switched to a wing system and never want to go back. For me, the main argument in favor of a wing and the long-hose configuration was the fact that everything is much tidier and that I no longer have any things in my way along with the camera and lamp. Loops from the tubes are history and the danger of getting stuck somewhere or breaking the reef with the regulators. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

I think the option with the WWL-1 and the 28mm lens is also not bad, a friend use this setup.

I use the 16-35mm f4 lens from Sony with my A7III, and i'm very happy with it! Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Thanks for your tipps! I have no I just ordered a cable for testing and something from the 3mm thick cables. Let's see if something works.

Hi, I use my Sony A7III in a Nauticam housing with the Nauticam LED Trigger for Sony. But with some flashes i have some problems, also with different cables. The Mini Flash MF-1 and also the SS-2 and SS-3 from i-Divesite will not work any time. No problems with my INON flashes. Would the thick cables from iDiving be an option for my problem? Does anyone have experience with the cables? Or do you think about a new trigger? And if so, which product? Thanks for your feedbacks and greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everybody, I'm currently having problems with an HDMI bulkhead instead of the HDMI cable from Nauticam. That's why I'm considering developing my own cable solution for the monitor housing I built together with a colleague. I know there is a solution with Dive and See, but I find the variant extremely expensive, even if it is absolutely good. The main problem for the own solution is to find suitable plugs and sockets. Possibly does any of you have a tip? Greetings from Switzerland and sorry for my bad english, Tino