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About Baumann

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  1. The Ike push buttons are prone to sticking if not treated to a little (and I mean a little) silicone grease every so often and a few pushes just to break the static friction where the seal has broken through the lubricant and clamped itself to the shaft after a period of time. working each button before fitting the camera should redistribute the lubricant and give you back free movement. Also watch out for levers that are just pressing against buttons, it's a good idea to go round each in turn to double check there position relative to the buttons they should/shouldn't be touching. That's the only issue I've had with my Ike on my D7000, but quickly resolved.
  2. Well, I thought I'd conduct a simple test with both the Tokina 10-17mm and Nikon 16mm. Please excuse the subject matter and the slight difference in camera to subject position... for the purposes of this little side by side test I think the 2-3" distance variation is of little importance. To be honest I was expecting the Nikon prime to be a little shaper but not by this much! I shot a few frames with each lens to be sure that the results were consistent and they are. Anyway, with the help of Peppa Pig and my favourite mug here we are: Tokina 10-17mm original shot SOOC just resized for the web. Nikon 16mm original shot SOOC just resized for the web. And what actually shows the detail some 100% crops: Tokina 100% crop Nikon 100% crop Now these are static camera and subject shots with flash so no motion involved to account for any blur. Not at all scientific but it's definitely made up my mind for this week's shoot. Remember these are straight out of camera with no sharpening or anything. I should probably have used a different subject I know... a sponged print mug doesn't have very defined edges to the printing but hey, I think it shows the difference ok, especially all the little bubbles on the surfaces. Now can I be bothered to do the same with the Nikon 18-70mm which involves striping down the port? ...Maybe later.
  3. Ok, here's a couple of examples... Tokina 10-17mm @ 17mm Nikon 18-70mm @18mm To me the 18-70mm wins in this scenario, but I still think we can do better.
  4. Yes my apologies, and indeed I'm not limiting to the lenses I've mentioned for sure... more the focal length 15-18mm really seams to work best for me. I currently use an 18-70mm with +4 which does a pretty good job, far better than my 10-17mm at the 17mm end but I still think it could be a touch better. Subject being babies, of the human variety in the pool. I'll post a couple of examples tomorrow.
  5. Now I'm only talking about image quality and sharpness here not versatility, for subjects about 2ft 6" from an 8" Ike acrylic dome (assuming the correct extension is fitted of course for each lens)? So with all lenses set at 16mm which would perform the best at say f/8 with correctly positioned and set strobes etc
  6. Indeed, I have been doing this for a few years now and the organisation side, let alone the technical side requires dedication. I use quite an extensive lighting setup but the results can be impressive with experience. There are relatively few of us that do it well for a reason LOL.
  7. Does anyone know anywhere in the uk that has stock of the new flat port housing? I need one for 12th August. Thanks
  8. Whilst I agree that a custom WB can make all the difference to both stills and video underwater it won't remove the need for lighting unless you are shallow enough for ambient lighting to suffice. You will also be able to take advantage of your camera's iso performance but again this will have limitations on dull days or at any real depth, especially for macro when you will almost always need lights to allow apertures required.
  9. Just need to check the close focus on the 50mm too in case you need a diopter as dome port projects the image quite close to the dome (depending on dome size too) 50 might be a bit long too. The 5D2 is the later 4 clip version
  10. Yes Ukelite are absolutely fine and good value compared to the main aluminium rivals, not so ergonomic or least bulky, but ok. The main worry is the minimal depths you are talking about. The o-ring seal of port to housing relies on water pressure to hold the port firmly to the housing which is fine at depth but near the surface it is much less of course. The Ikelite only has little plastic clips that prevent the (dome) port from coming away. Others like Nauticam have a 'proper' locking lever arangement that is far more secure. The later Ikelite's are better as now have 4 clips instead of 2, but something to consider... Especially if doing close focus work with models when there is a possibility if then knocking the dome. I wouldn't consider a bag for anything other than putting your sandwiches in, no matter what the manufacturers say LOL.Are you talking indoor pools or outside? Your biggest headache is going to be lighting if indoor.
  11. Another beautiful looking Nauticam housing... I'm so looking forward to reading this one!
  12. Aaah yes, pictures showing now. Nice little addition, well done!
  13. To the OP...Of course you are correct in your observations and your exposure theory, and yes you need to up the ISP if the background light level dictates. However you will also see a blue background it you underexposed the background by quite some degree, in fact as with above water photography with flash it is often good to underexposed the background by one or two stops and fill flash the foreground subject to expose it correctly. So when stopping down you still saw a decent back ground colour because you would have to go a few stops before it becomes rather dark.
  14. No D7000 housing bargains I guess?
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