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Posts posted by Baumann

  1. The Ike push buttons are prone to sticking if not treated to a little (and I mean a little) silicone grease every so often and a few pushes just to break the static friction where the seal has broken through the lubricant and clamped itself to the shaft after a period of time. working each button before fitting the camera should redistribute the lubricant and give you back free movement. Also watch out for levers that are just pressing against buttons, it's a good idea to go round each in turn to double check there position relative to the buttons they should/shouldn't be touching. That's the only issue I've had with my Ike on my D7000, but quickly resolved.

  2. Well, I thought I'd conduct a simple test with both the Tokina 10-17mm and Nikon 16mm.


    Please excuse the subject matter and the slight difference in camera to subject position... for the purposes of this little side by side test I think the 2-3" distance variation is of little importance. To be honest I was expecting the Nikon prime to be a little shaper but not by this much! I shot a few frames with each lens to be sure that the results were consistent and they are.


    Anyway, with the help of Peppa Pig and my favourite mug here we are:



    Tokina 10-17mm original shot SOOC just resized for the web.



    Nikon 16mm original shot SOOC just resized for the web.


    And what actually shows the detail some 100% crops:



    Tokina 100% crop



    Nikon 100% crop


    Now these are static camera and subject shots with flash so no motion involved to account for any blur.

    Not at all scientific but it's definitely made up my mind for this week's shoot.


    Remember these are straight out of camera with no sharpening or anything. I should probably have used a different subject I know... a sponged print mug doesn't have very defined edges to the printing but hey, I think it shows the difference ok, especially all the little bubbles on the surfaces.


    Now can I be bothered to do the same with the Nikon 18-70mm which involves striping down the port? ...Maybe later.

  3. Yes my apologies, and indeed I'm not limiting to the lenses I've mentioned for sure... more the focal length 15-18mm really seams to work best for me.

    I currently use an 18-70mm with +4 which does a pretty good job, far better than my 10-17mm at the 17mm end but I still think it could be a touch better.

    Subject being babies, of the human variety in the pool. I'll post a couple of examples tomorrow.

  4. Whilst I agree that a custom WB can make all the difference to both stills and video underwater it won't remove the need for lighting unless you are shallow enough for ambient lighting to suffice. You will also be able to take advantage of your camera's iso performance but again this will have limitations on dull days or at any real depth, especially for macro when you will almost always need lights to allow apertures required.

  5. Just need to check the close focus on the 50mm too in case you need a diopter as dome port projects the image quite close to the dome (depending on dome size too) 50 might be a bit long too. The 5D2 is the later 4 clip version

  6. Yes Ukelite are absolutely fine and good value compared to the main aluminium rivals, not so ergonomic or least bulky, but ok. The main worry is the minimal depths you are talking about. The o-ring seal of port to housing relies on water pressure to hold the port firmly to the housing which is fine at depth but near the surface it is much less of course. The Ikelite only has little plastic clips that prevent the (dome) port from coming away. Others like Nauticam have a 'proper' locking lever arangement that is far more secure. The later Ikelite's are better as now have 4 clips instead of 2, but something to consider... Especially if doing close focus work with models when there is a possibility if then knocking the dome.

    I wouldn't consider a bag for anything other than putting your sandwiches in, no matter what the manufacturers say LOL.Are you talking indoor pools or outside? Your biggest headache is going to be lighting if indoor.

  7. To the OP...Of course you are correct in your observations and your exposure theory, and yes you need to up the ISP if the background light level dictates. However you will also see a blue background it you underexposed the background by quite some degree, in fact as with above water photography with flash it is often good to underexposed the background by one or two stops and fill flash the foreground subject to expose it correctly. So when stopping down you still saw a decent back ground colour because you would have to go a few stops before it becomes rather dark.

  8. The following are available for sale:


    Nauticam NA-600D for Rebel T3i/Canon 600D - Used on 4 dives by Duxy (Ocean Leisure Cameras UK) for review. Almost new condition, difficult to tell it is not new.


    Nauticam NA-XZ1 for Olympus XZ1 - Used on 10 dives for review purposes, excellent condition.


    Nauticam NA-GF3 for Panasonic GF3 - Used on 10 dives for review purpose, excellent condition.


    Please PM me if interested, prices will depend if outside or inside European Union.


    No D7000 housing bargains I guess?

  9. Is this an indoor pool I presume? Hence the need for the above water strobe. I use a pair of Profoto heads with a 7b generator above water when shooting indoors. But I just stick them on static stands. Also I have my underwater strobes on the rig so I work on my own without the need for lighting helpers.

  10. Those with glass ports are likely to defend their purchase, however for optical qualities and IQ there really isn't anything to support the view... in fact you could argue that a well made acrylic dome will provide better IQ due to the closeness of the material to water itself as opposed to glass. You do however gain scratch resistance from glass but then you are also unable to polish out minor scratches from glass. The reality is that you can gain greater IQ by ensuring that your settings and lighting are chosen to achieve the best exposure of your subject than worry too much about the dome material (assuming that you have the correct extension length fitted of required for your lens of course). So, you really need to weigh up what qualities are right for you re both dome size and material. I'm an acrylic dome user and an 8" one. I don't do close focus work with it so getting an extra couple of inches closer is not required and I gain a little less corner softness with the added dome size.

    As for WB or not... I would save your money and go standard. If you shoot RAW don't worry about it at all.

  11. I can think of two technical reasons:


    1) The wiring is different for the cable going to the master strobe versus the secondary strobe. I'm not sure they'd be able to accommodate that in an adapter.

    2) You'd have 2 extra potential sites for a leak.


    The dual sync cords work well and when compared to the cost of the complete rig I even bought spares.



    Yes I'm a little surprised that the OP is hesitant to spend what is in real terms a small percentage of the setup cost on what is an essential part of the rig. Having dual strobes is a huge advantage in both WA and macro, especially if you have already got the strobes themselves. It does also make sense to have at least one spare. If you do go for second hand I'd look closely at the pins for any water damage and also bent pins. I'd probably change the o-rings too. For piece of mind I'd opt for new myself, but hey.

  12. A bit of a specific question this one to the Nikon D7000 and Ikelite setup - stills and video clips.


    With this specific setup has anyone done any comparisons between the 10-17mm Tokina and the Nikon 16mm? Looking for people's thoughts on IQ primarily rather than the merits of zoom over prime. Primarily for shooting large fish (1-2ft) at about 2-3ft distance at shallow depth (lit by sun and 2 DS160 strobes).


    Any thoughts and experience would be much appreciated.


    Of course I'm happy to consider other lenses in the 15-18mm ballpark if known to be better UW. Note that this is only for use UW rather than topside.

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