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Canon Shooter

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About Canon Shooter

  • Rank
    Damselfish

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  • Website URL
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Seattle - Washington

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5D (Primary) Canon 10D (Backup)
  • Camera Housing
    Custom Design
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 x Canon 550 EX
  1. Hi Leslie, The body shape looks very similar, it could be a juvenile Calvactaea tumida. Thank you.
  2. According to our dive guide the critter in the first pic is supposed to be a seacucumber. Could anybody help me with the ID of this creature? Also, I could not find an ID for the tiny crab in the second picture. Thanks for your help, Kurt
  3. What kind of upgrade is that? I have been checking Ikelites site and could not find anything about an upgrade for the SS200. Is there a charger and a battery pack included and if there is, what kind of charger is it. Also, do you have a diffuser for the strobe? Thank you, Kurt
  4. Up for sale are a Canon D30 in excellent condition, a 28-80 USM Zoom lens and a custom aluminum housing with port. All that for $2,000. This housing is made out a solid block of aircraft grade aluminum. All controls have Quad Seal rings and are spring loaded to withstand pressure up to 150 feet. The sight glasses are made of 1/8 inch Lexan. The housing was made to accept Ikelite ports, which are quite inexpensive and are available for a great variety of lenses. For corrosion protection the housing was anodized and powder coated. There is one strobe connector on top of the housing. I am currently using two Ikelite 200 Substrobe with a dual cord, which are working only in manual mode, but are very powerful and have a short recycle time. The controls on the camera housing operate the following: Main Dial, Shutter Button, Metering mode/Flash compensation Button, AF mode/WB button, AE/FE lock button, Quick control Dial, Mode Dial Menu Button. Those are the most common controls used and I did not see a need to cram the housing full of controls, which are unnecessary. I am currently using a 1 Gigabyte Micro drive, with a capacity of up to 800 high-resolution images. The housing with two Ikelite 200 Strobes weighs about 20 pounds on land, and is about 1 pound negative in salt water -- depending on the port chosen. Please check out the housing on the Digideep website through the following Link Digideep, or here on Wetpixel Wetpixel The Canon D30 is about 2 years old and in excellent condition and looks like new. If you are not already familiar with the technical details of this camera, please check out Canons website. The Camera comes with all the software, BP-511 Nicad battery, charger, DC coupler, Interface cable, Neck strap, Manual and a 16MB compact flash card. Also included is a Canon 28-80 USM zoom lens, which is also in excellent condition. The housing has been on approx 50 dives and has never been flooded. The reason why I am selling this great setup. Canon just came out with the new 10D and I am going to upgrade. I'll be glad to answer any additional questions.
  5. Thanks for the compliment, James. I have to admit, I would really like to keep this setup if I could, but I have to finance a new housing for the Canon 10D. I took the housing to Wakatobi (Indonesia) one of the best dive destinations anywhere, and it worked extremely well. The shot of the Pigmy seahorse (can be seen on ebay - actual size <1/2”) was taken at 150 feet. I took over 1200 picture on this trip. Unfortunately, I broke one of my IBM Micro drives on my way home and lost some of the best shots. But I am using that as an excuse to go back to Wakatobi in September to make up for the lost pictures. In case anybody is interested, I still have two more housings for the Canon D30/60 left. If you would like some info on those housings or Wakatobi, please send an email to kbachlmayr@msn.com. Thanks, Kurt
  6. No I have not, but it's food for thought Thanks for the idea
  7. The deepest I had the housing so far was 75 feet. However, the most critical depth is between 20 and 40 feet, especially when ascending, since the pressure pushing on the O-rings gets less and then it starts to leak. Since, at least in my opinion, the controls are the weakest spot (and they are rated to 300 feet) on the housing I have no doubt that it will work just fine down to 150 feet. If you go any deeper the springs on the controls have to be replaced, otherwise the water pressure is going to push the controls for you. Kurt
  8. Hi Mike, Some of the controls on my first housing are from an old Ikelite housing, and some I bought new from Ikelite (Part #9251.5) Most of the knobs and the shafts I made myself. I am currently in the process of designing a completely new kind of controls for my next housing. The following link gets you directly to the Ikelite website with their controls. http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/control_parts.html Hope that helps. Kurt
  9. Does anybody know if you can trigger an Ikelite SS200 through the PC socket of a Canon D30? Since strobes with the D30/D60 work only in manual mode, I thought this might work. Please let me know if I am wrong. Thanks for your input, Kurt
  10. I am looking for a strobe connector (bulkhead) to sync a Canon SLR to an Ikelite Strobe or somebody who can custom make one (or 5) for a reasonable price. I am in the process of building a new housing for a Canon D60 and cannot find a company willing or able to sell me a bulkhead with a Canon hot shoe. For my first housing, I used a bulkhead, which I removed from an Ikelite housing for a Canon A2 camera and it works just fine. Any suggestions are welcome.
  11. I am looking for a strobe connector (bulkhead) to sync a Canon SLR to an Ikelite Strobe or somebody who can custom make one (or 5) for a reasonable price. I am in the process of building a new housing for a Canon D60 and cannot find a company willing or able to sell me a bulkhead without sending in the housing. For the previous housing, I used a bulkhead, which I removed from an Ikelite housing for a Canon A2 camera and it works just fine. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Kurt
  12. Richard, You are right, I used to be a Tool & Die maker, which is of course very helpful. To answer your questions: The cost for the raw materials was about $300 and most of the work was done on a CNC (Computer Numeric Controlled) milling machine, but there are a lot of details that could only be done on a manual mill. As to the time it took to finish the whole project, I don’t really know, but it was a very long time. First I started by measuring the camera and creating a 3D image with a CAD program. After that I designed the housing around it until I had the complete model including the controls in 3D. The machining part itself took about 4 weekends (Saturday & Sunday). After the housing was machined I started assembling the controls, which of course needed to be adjusted and covered with rubber protectors to avoid damage to the camera. I designed a base plate, which screws on to the camera and can be easily inserted into the housing. After all the controls were in place and adjusted, I disassembled the whole thing and got it ready for anodizing and powder coating, which was done by a local company. Unfortunately, they had a minimum charge for the anodizing and the powder coating process and they charged me about $200. (I could have had 10 housings anodized for the same price). It took about 2 ½ weeks for them to get the housing back to me (backlog). After that came the fun part – TESTING. At first I submerged the housing in a barrel full of water over the weekend – without the camera, then it was off to the Puget sound first without the camera and then with the whole setup and that was it. I hope that answers some of your questions. If you need any further information, I will gladly answer them. Thanks for your interest, Kurt
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