teddib

No replies so far but with further research, Canon is coming out with higher resolution (44 Mp and >) full frame sensor cameras this year which most likely will be video capable as well. Given that Canon lenses are not going to work on the Nikon, it would seem to be worth getting through this year on what I have and upgrade to the new Canon full frame cameras coming out. Question answered.

I have in the past dragged around a DSLR and a Video Cam with two housings, two sets of lights, cables, batteries, chargers, etc. I am getting to old for this and am thinking about replacing this with one system that does both. I currently have the Canon EOS 1Ds MII, Subal housing, Ikelite strobes, Sony HD Cam, Light and Motion housing, LED lights, blah, blah. I have a number of good Canon lenses so it would seem the logical step would be to go with the Canon EOS 1D-X, EOS 5D Mark III but the new Nikons obviously have better resolution. If I went Nikon then I have the issue of using Canon lenses on a Nikon camera back, eg., D810. Is there any good advice here for the best direction to take?

Hello All, I am off to Thailand for ten days of diving on the Mermaid I. I will be using for the first time the SR12 and the Bluefin housing with the Sunray 2000 LED lights. One feature that seems interesting is the one button white balance setting. Does anyone have experience in using this feature? Any guidelines on techniques with different settings? Thanks, Tom

Listing is on eBay, here is a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=300292236873 This is the description: Complete underwater digital video set-up including: Camcorder and accessories: Sony DCR-PC120 MiniDV Camcorder with manual DCR-PC120 external power supply Video/audio cable Batteries: NP-FM50, NP-QM91 + InfoTech equivalent Sony AC-VQ800 battery charger Titanium 0.45x wide angle / macro lens Sakar Compact High Resolution 2x telephoto lens Ten new unopened miniDV tapes Underwater housing and accessories: Ikelite 9037.84 housing for PC115 and PC120 Pro Video-Lite with Ni-cad battery pack and charger SA-100 arm Condition All are in excellent condition, no physical marks or defects, and full working order (as shown in photos).

Seatool SR11/12 Housing. I have not seen any comments on the Seatool SR11/12 housing. Has anyone experience or a view on the suitability of this housing for the HDR-SR12?

Hi folks, I am a biochemist, a scientist at heart, who started in astophotography but was always interested in marine biology. I work for a major drug company, to remain undisclosed, and I manage new drug development for the most part. I seriously love the diversity and beauty of the undersea world which I see as the closest connection I can make to what I believe will be the diversity of life in the cosmos. Regards, Tom Stephens

This may be a different angle but I started in digital photography with a telescope. Photographing planetary nebulae and galaxies. In the mean time, I learned to dive. Eventually I connected these because to me the undersea world is as alien as the extraterrestrial world. It is exploration of who we are and where we are. It is like looking out of the window/top of a convertible was we drive our vehicle through life. If we want to see what is trully different from ourselves, undersea photography is an ideal way. At least until I own a Hubble scope. Regards, Tom Stephens

OK, I found that you tape the far left hand three pins in order to block out the signal that the f-stop is out of range making auto focus not work. My symptom yesterday was that AF was working but it was bouncing back and forth and not locking in. This may because of the very narrow depth of field and the low contrast. What I think I am learning is that the extension tube and diopter both require closer focus. The diopter, depending on the quality of optics may introduce so unwanted artifacts. The teleconverter keeps the focal distance but reduces the quality of image and requires more light. Taken from Tackett's Essential guide: for a 105 mm lens: focal distance is 5 3/4 in, with + 3 diopter is 3 1/2 in, with 2x TC is 5 3/4 in, the combination of +3 diopter and 2x TC is 3 1/2 in. I do not see a major disadvantage to the original solution I had tried, the extension tube, other than I am going to have to get within about six inches to my subject and I will be limited in my options while on any single dive. I have sent an email to Woody and will consider that option if I find a unit that fits the Subal lens. It sounds like given any of this gear this will be operator limited. Shoot a lot of shots and throw all the bads ones away. Keeping my fingers crossed, I should see a lot of good macro subjects near Raine Isand. Regards, Tom

Great article! I will have to take a look at the wet diopter option. It is not clear from this source what that does to the focus distance and f-stop. Do you know? I actually tried your suggestion with the 25 mm extention tube and the Extender EF 2x II. It works! Like I probably would expect, auto focus is hopeless with this magnification so I presume I would be stuck with manual focus. This presents one problem with the Subal housing I have in that the port does not work with manual focus on this lens. I am guessing one might take the lens all the way out and just use distance to the subject to get focus. Than you are pretty much stuck with some pretty close shots. Thanks again for all the help. Tom

OK. I am on a bit of a short timeline and now have an extension for my port which accomodates the 100 mm plus the EF25II. The focus distance is about six inches. With the port on, this will be more like five inches. I have the Canon Extender EF 2 but it does not work with the 100 mm. What teleconverter would you recommend for the 100 mm? What would the focus distance be with that combination? I investigated the diopter option once before but opted out. What is a typical focus distance with the diopter? How does this impact f-stop? Thanks for all the advise! Tom

OK. That is very helpful. What impact does the EF25II extension ring have on this equation/calculation? Thanks again, Tom

<_< OK, I now have the appropriate port extension to allow me to use the Canon 100 mm/f2.8 lens plus the extension ring for macro photography with the 1DsMII. I will be using two Ikelite DS-125 stobes for lighting. As I understand it, increasing the f-stop to a point improves the depth of field while increasing distortion due to diffraction. My question, is what is the ideal setting for this camera/lens/strobe set-up. Maybe I will just need to experiment and with up to 27 dives in the far Northern great barrier reef I should get plenty of chance. I just wondered if someone has optimized some settings to start? Given the magnification, are there any eco sensitive techniques to get a shot (I realize no one will give their sacred secrets away). Just looking for a little advise. Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the reply. It is good news that you have tried this. Obviously the rig will be more bulky than optimal but this maybe my only option. Getting psyched for this trip which sounds like it is really out there. I now have to figure if I will only take the still or try to get the video camera along for the flight. Thanks, Tom

OK I know this is probably a bad idea but I am tempted to try it anyway. I have a Canon 1DsMII plus the 100mm/f2.8 USM macro. I have a flat port that works for this combination but if I add the extension ring EF25II things do not fit so well. I am pursuing an adaptor that may work but I may end up making my trip to the far Northern GBR without anything. So here is my question. I do have a domed port for my wideangle lens. The macro fits in this and since the focal distance is fairly long it focuses just fine. What kind of abberation/distortion will I introduce if I attempt to use my macro in a domed port? Just wondering. Tom

<_< It turns out I got some disinformation and the trip is actually itinerary #11 which includes Raine Island and the great and small detached reef. Anyone been on this trip give thumbs up/down? I will have to leave my hard storm case in Cairns because there is a small plane leg with strict weight limits. I will have to tranfer my housings/lens/strobes etc into a lighter bag. Anyone have any recommendations for a good bag for this situation. Thanks, Tom