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Everything posted by teddib

  1. No replies so far but with further research, Canon is coming out with higher resolution (44 Mp and >) full frame sensor cameras this year which most likely will be video capable as well. Given that Canon lenses are not going to work on the Nikon, it would seem to be worth getting through this year on what I have and upgrade to the new Canon full frame cameras coming out. Question answered.
  2. I have in the past dragged around a DSLR and a Video Cam with two housings, two sets of lights, cables, batteries, chargers, etc. I am getting to old for this and am thinking about replacing this with one system that does both. I currently have the Canon EOS 1Ds MII, Subal housing, Ikelite strobes, Sony HD Cam, Light and Motion housing, LED lights, blah, blah. I have a number of good Canon lenses so it would seem the logical step would be to go with the Canon EOS 1D-X, EOS 5D Mark III but the new Nikons obviously have better resolution. If I went Nikon then I have the issue of using Canon lenses on a Nikon camera back, eg., D810. Is there any good advice here for the best direction to take?
  3. Hello All, I am off to Thailand for ten days of diving on the Mermaid I. I will be using for the first time the SR12 and the Bluefin housing with the Sunray 2000 LED lights. One feature that seems interesting is the one button white balance setting. Does anyone have experience in using this feature? Any guidelines on techniques with different settings? Thanks, Tom
  4. Listing is on eBay, here is a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=300292236873 This is the description: Complete underwater digital video set-up including: Camcorder and accessories: Sony DCR-PC120 MiniDV Camcorder with manual DCR-PC120 external power supply Video/audio cable Batteries: NP-FM50, NP-QM91 + InfoTech equivalent Sony AC-VQ800 battery charger Titanium 0.45x wide angle / macro lens Sakar Compact High Resolution 2x telephoto lens Ten new unopened miniDV tapes Underwater housing and accessories: Ikelite 9037.84 housing for PC115 and PC120 Pro Video-Lite with Ni-cad battery pack and charger SA-100 arm Condition All are in excellent condition, no physical marks or defects, and full working order (as shown in photos).
  5. Seatool SR11/12 Housing. I have not seen any comments on the Seatool SR11/12 housing. Has anyone experience or a view on the suitability of this housing for the HDR-SR12?
  6. Hi folks, I am a biochemist, a scientist at heart, who started in astophotography but was always interested in marine biology. I work for a major drug company, to remain undisclosed, and I manage new drug development for the most part. I seriously love the diversity and beauty of the undersea world which I see as the closest connection I can make to what I believe will be the diversity of life in the cosmos. Regards, Tom Stephens
  7. This may be a different angle but I started in digital photography with a telescope. Photographing planetary nebulae and galaxies. In the mean time, I learned to dive. Eventually I connected these because to me the undersea world is as alien as the extraterrestrial world. It is exploration of who we are and where we are. It is like looking out of the window/top of a convertible was we drive our vehicle through life. If we want to see what is trully different from ourselves, undersea photography is an ideal way. At least until I own a Hubble scope. Regards, Tom Stephens
  8. OK, I found that you tape the far left hand three pins in order to block out the signal that the f-stop is out of range making auto focus not work. My symptom yesterday was that AF was working but it was bouncing back and forth and not locking in. This may because of the very narrow depth of field and the low contrast. What I think I am learning is that the extension tube and diopter both require closer focus. The diopter, depending on the quality of optics may introduce so unwanted artifacts. The teleconverter keeps the focal distance but reduces the quality of image and requires more light. Taken from Tackett's Essential guide: for a 105 mm lens: focal distance is 5 3/4 in, with + 3 diopter is 3 1/2 in, with 2x TC is 5 3/4 in, the combination of +3 diopter and 2x TC is 3 1/2 in. I do not see a major disadvantage to the original solution I had tried, the extension tube, other than I am going to have to get within about six inches to my subject and I will be limited in my options while on any single dive. I have sent an email to Woody and will consider that option if I find a unit that fits the Subal lens. It sounds like given any of this gear this will be operator limited. Shoot a lot of shots and throw all the bads ones away. Keeping my fingers crossed, I should see a lot of good macro subjects near Raine Isand. Regards, Tom
  9. Great article! I will have to take a look at the wet diopter option. It is not clear from this source what that does to the focus distance and f-stop. Do you know? I actually tried your suggestion with the 25 mm extention tube and the Extender EF 2x II. It works! Like I probably would expect, auto focus is hopeless with this magnification so I presume I would be stuck with manual focus. This presents one problem with the Subal housing I have in that the port does not work with manual focus on this lens. I am guessing one might take the lens all the way out and just use distance to the subject to get focus. Than you are pretty much stuck with some pretty close shots. Thanks again for all the help. Tom
  10. OK. I am on a bit of a short timeline and now have an extension for my port which accomodates the 100 mm plus the EF25II. The focus distance is about six inches. With the port on, this will be more like five inches. I have the Canon Extender EF 2 but it does not work with the 100 mm. What teleconverter would you recommend for the 100 mm? What would the focus distance be with that combination? I investigated the diopter option once before but opted out. What is a typical focus distance with the diopter? How does this impact f-stop? Thanks for all the advise! Tom
  11. OK. That is very helpful. What impact does the EF25II extension ring have on this equation/calculation? Thanks again, Tom
  12. <_< OK, I now have the appropriate port extension to allow me to use the Canon 100 mm/f2.8 lens plus the extension ring for macro photography with the 1DsMII. I will be using two Ikelite DS-125 stobes for lighting. As I understand it, increasing the f-stop to a point improves the depth of field while increasing distortion due to diffraction. My question, is what is the ideal setting for this camera/lens/strobe set-up. Maybe I will just need to experiment and with up to 27 dives in the far Northern great barrier reef I should get plenty of chance. I just wondered if someone has optimized some settings to start? Given the magnification, are there any eco sensitive techniques to get a shot (I realize no one will give their sacred secrets away). Just looking for a little advise. Thanks, Tom
  13. Thanks for the reply. It is good news that you have tried this. Obviously the rig will be more bulky than optimal but this maybe my only option. Getting psyched for this trip which sounds like it is really out there. I now have to figure if I will only take the still or try to get the video camera along for the flight. Thanks, Tom
  14. OK I know this is probably a bad idea but I am tempted to try it anyway. I have a Canon 1DsMII plus the 100mm/f2.8 USM macro. I have a flat port that works for this combination but if I add the extension ring EF25II things do not fit so well. I am pursuing an adaptor that may work but I may end up making my trip to the far Northern GBR without anything. So here is my question. I do have a domed port for my wideangle lens. The macro fits in this and since the focal distance is fairly long it focuses just fine. What kind of abberation/distortion will I introduce if I attempt to use my macro in a domed port? Just wondering. Tom
  15. <_< It turns out I got some disinformation and the trip is actually itinerary #11 which includes Raine Island and the great and small detached reef. Anyone been on this trip give thumbs up/down? I will have to leave my hard storm case in Cairns because there is a small plane leg with strict weight limits. I will have to tranfer my housings/lens/strobes etc into a lighter bag. Anyone have any recommendations for a good bag for this situation. Thanks, Tom
  16. I have finally booked (I think) a berth on the Nimrod Explorer Southbound Far Norther exploratory tour. I like the itinerary and sounds like a good trip. Has anyone on this forum taken this trip? Any comments or recommendations? Thanks in advance, Tom
  17. Hello All, I am thinking two trips. One might be in the Melbourne area which I known little about. The second dive I would go up to Cairns to pick up a live-a-board for a destination like Cod Hole or Ribbon Reef. I have exchanged emails with Mike Ball and Explorer Ventures. All these seem good. I admit a preference for warm dives but am looking for adventure with photo ops. The first dive would be July and I would probably not get too far from Melbourne. This dive would be myself so I am amenable to more insulation if there are some things to photograph. The second dive will be October to December. The only reason for mentioning the October period is that the first full moon of that month is when the Coral spawn occurs. I have always wanted to be around for that. December is probably a bit warmer and my main squeeze will accompany me likely for that dive. I am willing to travel to get to the right destination. Thanks for any and all input. I am sure there is someone in this forum with great Australian dive experience. Tom
  18. Hello All, I have business in Melbourne during Jul-Aug and Dec this year in Australia. I would love to end both trips with some good diving in Australia. I realize the first is winter there and the latter is Spring-Summer. Being my first trip, I would like to make the best of this. What are good dive operations to hook up with and good dive destinations for July and December in Australia? Thanks, Tom
  19. Based on these last two posts, 2x Z220's on Ultralight arms would be the way to go. In terms of total weight we have saved 1200 g versus 2300 g and have better coverage. Digital Diver does not give a guide number for the Z220's but what I am hearing is that this is OK. Am I correct on this? I can get to the right WB basically using the RAW images processed via my favorite software. Does this sound like a solution? This means to me eliminating my DS-125 for the Z220. The dry weight for the Z220 is better but obviously there is cost involved. Alternatively I could just get another DS-125 and Ultralight arms (this has actually been recommended to me before). What may work best (granting that there is no ultimate oracle in this avocation). Thanks, Tom
  20. OK, two strobes can get into a hole if you do some rearrangement. I should have figured that out. To do this you need to have equipment that you can rearrange easily. Is there advise on how to do that? What equipment makes that possible? So what two strobes give me similar energy/guide number and control of color to one Subtronic Mega Color? I do not see any that give the color control. I can not afford to buy or carry around two of these monsters. Maybe there is a color that gets you close enough that with a RAW image you can get the white balance necessary anyway? Thanks always for the expert advise! Tom
  21. Wolf Eel, Thanks for the reply. The shadow question is an important one but it is a trade off. How many photos do you miss because the shadows were not right versus you can not even get into position to shoot. Regarding the fish eye lens, I have not seen any positive reviews for this type of lens and the 1Ds Mark II because of the full frame format. Consuently I have not been pushing my meager lens collection in that direction. I now have the 24-70 mm which is only a modest wide angle. Even this lens is criticized for this camera. Do you find any satisfactory fish eye lens's for this camera? If not, I may not need 180 D. Everything is a compromise, although I have to admit that I like the photos I am getting. Life is about choices. Regards, Tom
  22. <_< This may again be naive, but what I am learning is that I am going to have to get close to my object with a strobe to photograph no matter what strobe rig I use. I have shown my experience with one DS-125 strobe in my review of the Subal CD1D housing. Trying to deal with two strobes of large size is not going to change this equation. I have often found I want to photograph something down in a hole where a big rig is not going to work. So now I am leaning toward getting one strobe with good angle dispersion and power and forgetting the two strobe moose rack approach. An example would be the Subtronic Mega Color. This unit as a 112 D angle dispersion and good energy/guide number. I can imagine keeping this unit pretty tight with the housing and getting some more energy while maybe getting in those holes. Am I crazy or what? I have not found a source for this strobe in the USA. Does anyone know where I might buy it? The ability to adjust the temperature is appealing to me. Does this work? Who has experience with this unit and can say whether it is worth the rather high price? Thanks for any insight. Tom
  23. I guess what I am learning from this is that my assumption that I was underpowered with my strobe was not accurate. You can basically never get too close. You need to point strobes accurately, with two more accomodating than one. If this is true, the two SS200's look like an enormously bulky apparatus to dive with. I can not imagine trying to get into some small holes with that. It would seem what I need are two healthy strobes and to figure out how to get close. How do you do that? Regards, Tom
  24. <_< James, I know there is a limit but where is it at? I see wide angles of whale sharks so I know the photographers are not within two feet. I guess what you must be saying is that in this case you have to open up the aperture and seek natural light, e.g. the sun. Thanks, Tom
  25. I am sorry that the formatting for my message came out so differently from composing my message on this web site. This is a bug for this interface that I do not have control, however, if someone wants that actual spreadsheet all you need to do is ask. Tom
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