dpaustex

I still think workshops are great - if they're small. I recently signed up for another workshop next January, and am really looking forward to it. As for myself, I prefer the "hands-on" of "change this setting, move this strobe here, try this, etc.". Yes, a smaller workshop costs more, but in my mind that is exactly what I want. I find telling me to do something and SHOWING me are both very important. The lectures only go so far. Some "in pool" time to show me stuff, as well as in-water and on-boat, are exactly what I'm after. And after trying to get in this guy's workshop for a year, I finally snagged a spot!

I would ask how your focus is set. Are you using "single point", "tracking", etc.? I use single shot, only. You should also "move" the focus off of the camera shutter, onto the back focus. In this manner, you hit the back focus button and the focus "locks", if you are shooting macro/super-macro, you can then "rock" the housing, and when you're ready to shoot, then depress the shutter. I do not use the "tracking" focus at all. I'd say if this continues, you should send the body in for service, as I have found mine to do exceptionally well in low-light situations - in and out of the water.

My Zen port sometimes does the same thing. I get the concentric ring design off my lens reflecting off the inside of the port. Only happens in certian lighting situations. I took some flat black paint to those rings!!!!

Also, I'd go for "off camera". Get a Triggerfish sensor to fire your strobe, then use another strobe on-camera (but not with snoot). Works like a champ.

The live view can work, but you then have to "enlarge" the screen. I have seen people use accessory monitors, that have a very high pixel count, to help with this. Also, you need to find the "sweet spot" on your lens. If you stop down too much, you lose a lot of sharpness on your image. I have found for macro, around f/11 works well with my Canon 100mm L series. Alex Mustard has many good posts that show different sharpness levels, based on different apertures.

Can't comment on the S/N's. I have an old set of DS51's I use on a point-and-shoot. I now use DS 160/161's. If you can find some 161's, I would say go there. The TTL does work, but I would respectfully suggest you also learn to shoot in full manual mode, as you have more control. The TTL is useful for moving subjects. The Ikelite TTL circuitry is very good, too (Aquatica is starting to put it in their housings). Hope this was some help.

Gulp. New 100-400. (chk) New 14-24 (not yet) New 5DS R (not yet) I sure hope that body fits in my Aquatica.......... Curious to try that lens (which is out later this month), and if it fits in Superdome......

Am curiois as to when the resolving power of the L series lenses is impacted/overcome by pixel density. Charts by Alex are great examples. Often found "sweet spot" is different for different lenses, in terms of sharpness. Curious how various diopter brands also make a difference.

I don't think Wetpixel cares. In the many PMs we had, prior to the transaction - including my reiteration the shade was cracked/glued - you continue to spout balderdash and total inaccuracies - which is apparently your style. You now have changed - once, again (surprise) - your verbiage ( without a "suitable repair"), yet don't mention the many PMs back-and-forth prior to your offer and my acceptance of the terms. I would suggest you only pay full retail, for new items, with a manufacturer's warranty, as you obviously have comprehension issues of the written word, such as "shade has a crack". When items are disclosed - and priced - with such items, and further concessions given, when is a deal ever done for you, when it's free? When does your acceptance of the deal, after many PM's, pricing of the item, and further price concessions, mean anything? So I hope all future seller's know you expect something for nothing, even after the deal is done. You expect clearly disclosed items to be "like new", even though they don't say that. So in my 200+ online sales with zero (that means "none") complaints, you're the first. And then you mischaracterize things, to what end? When the item says "has crack", and then we PM and I reiterate that, I'm really not sure what it is you won't/can't understand.

If the scratches are on the inside of your dome, they are kind of hard to reach. All of the various methods work by grinding off minute amounts of the plastic, just with differing grits of either sandpaper (use wet sandpaper, like body shops use), polishing compounds of various forms (all the way from acylic "headlight restoration" kits to NOVUS polish). The main ingredient of the polishing is the elbow grease!!! You can get "buffing" pads that fit on the end of a power drill. Buy a bit extension, and you should be in business. In polishing, you have to be careful not to wear a flat spot on the area you are polishing, and that is more difficult on a concave suface, as they don't make a convex polishing head (at least that I've seen). If you use a smaller head on the polishing bonnet, that should help matters. As mentioned by a great many posters, you just have to be patient with the process, and work the area a little at a time. Hope this helps.

All items sold. Please close forum topic.

1. Item was advertised as having a cracked shade. 2. Item was additionally discounted prior to sale. 3. Buyer complains of it having a cracked shade. 4. See item 1. Repeat as required.

The above buyer has a serious problem grasping facts. Item clearly described as having a patch on a crack in the shade. Further price concessions given, in the amount of $35. At no time was there any "refusal" to furnish pictures of the item (there is a picture in the post). Buyer asks me to falsify paperwork to Customs. I refuse. Buyer sends several PMs prior to the transaction, all of which were answered, then consummates the deal. Buyer then comes back, several days after the package is delivered and says there is a crack. Duh. See item 1 (and repeat this list, as necessary). Buyer did not ask for insurance, yet item was wrapped in bubble wrap and inside the foam cover. Suggested to buyer to reglue to patch, with a $5 tube of epoxy. See item 1 and 2. Buyer insists I should help purchase a new shade. See item 1. I refuse, as item is as described. See item 1. Buyer then goes to every website he can find and mis-states pretty much everything. I am not sure why he cannot grasp the above items, and the fact the posting clearly states there is a crack in the shade. Now it has turned into a matter of principle, as he is mis-stating sequence of events. Again, see item 1.

For those of you that care. See the other post for this http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52861 The listing clearly states the shade was cracked. Mr. Manfra knew this, we exchanged many PM's on the item prior to the sale, then he notifies me five days after he receives the item that there is some other kind of damage. The picture he posted is not the condition in which it was sent. He conveniently ignores his extortion attempts, for an item clearly described in the posting (shade has patch....), as well as PM saying it was cracked/patched. He is given further price concessions on the sale, then whines. He also asks me to falsify customs forms. He gets on Scubaboard, falsely stating he bought the item off that site. Puh-lease, I think his character is evident. We call it "pants on fire" here in Texas. Happy diving, y'all.

All items are sold. Thanks.