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SPP

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Everything posted by SPP

  1. Sorry guys OOT but I need to share this............ Hi Peter, Alor ....hhhmm..scarry place, a good friend of mine at Karl's Dream ( Alor Straight too ) needed to rev his 140HP outboard to 3,000 RPM just to maintain position during one of those super current there and this is a small RIB of no more than 4.7 meters which can do 25 knots with 6 divers at WOT in flat water. Damn, I would not want to be caught at such current speed. In 2009 I nearly died at 3.5 knots horizontal current which I never knew has pocket of down current........but I do have a bail out device for down current powered by 2 x 68 grams C02 cartridge and 50 meters reel with 1000 lbs kevlar to allow me not to die of embolism. Full BCD inflation 20 liter class and full kicking on powerful fins can't do shiet...its at a bluewater 200 meters ahead of a sea mount, not a wall, so I can't do Spiderman escape and got to use my bail out device. 1st and last REAL use...wheewww. Contact Carter Lift Bag. Its a US company. http://www.carterbag.com/personalfloat.html A 50 lbs lift will do, its totally enclosed model...choose CBPF-50. It can be installed with a C02 activator, which can take 68 grams one-time-use C02 cardtridge. Remember in the older days when one buy Scubapro BCD the Classic, it has in its pocket a CO2 inflator ? Per 2 cc of CO2 at 1 ATM = 1 liter air space. So you get 34 liters of air equal lift at surface and 6.8 liters at 40 meters depth. The key is the 50 meters line with a reel, so that you can send the float all the way to the surface if not shallower and at 10 meters or 2 ATM, you get 17 liters lift equivalent. It has over pressure valve, so no worry. Its material is tougher than 400 denier BCD fabric, super tough. My 50 lbs one ( no C02 inflator ) is now almost 8 years old already and its my second marker sausage, not bail out one....but I can use it as bail out when needed...however pumping such a big sausage with octopus is a pain in a strong current, let alone down current. Get 600 lbs dyneema/spectra, it will fit in a small finger reel. Kevlar rot in the sun UV, Dyneema/spectra does not. This super sausage can save your life. Mine is custom made and shape, but its a 22 liters lift equivalent only with some "unique" feature. 2 x 68gram CO2 stashed well will not be detected by airport x-ray and its airline safe no worry. Life jackets on planes are +-32gram CO2, same cartridge type too...LOL. http://www.lelandltd.com/small_high_pressure4.1.htm There are two kinds of thread for 68 grams. 1/2-20 UNF and 5/8-18UNF. Carter can tell u which one to use for the kind of activator he will provide. You can Fed-Ex CO2 from USA to Singapore, its possible with hazmat surcharge of US$50 or so. Or call a marine supply store which may carry 60 grams CO2...just make sure the thread type match ur CO2 activator. Clean the cartridge well and lubricate a bit for longer life from corossion. One word of caution. Do not ever get entangled with the reel line when u launch this floating missile. At shallow water, say 10 meters or 2 ATM, 17 liters lift is not something your fin can EVER fight for more than 20-30 seconds before you see stars and then tunnel vision from over extertion and still being pulled to the surface...LOL. Practice makes perfect, I always practice using this bail out device, combined with long ahhhhhhh and very short rapid breath, depending on how much line I reel out before I launch myself to the surface. In strong current, if you release 20 meters of line from the reel, you will not stop at 20 meters depth but at approx 10 meters due to sideway movement of the sausage in strong current and the line will not be straight up pure 20 meters. Make a knot at 30 meters on the reel line and place a simple marker with a yellow color string or whatever very visual . So when you see the marker, grab hard the line and fly to the surface and you will stop approx at 15-20 meters. The finger reel itself, place a tiny bit of lead for sure negative buoyancy because when the sausage rise to the surface, the reel will spin so fast its hot even with gloves on if you try to slow it down and it may follow the sausage for a while. You would want the reel to be at your depth with a mere soft guide-touch from your hands making a circle to the Dyneema like how fishing rod guide holes manages the line. Never never clip a reel to your BCD while deploying this missile. One won't die from embolism shooting up fast from 40 meters to 15 meters if you open up your airway. Deco obligation ...that is another story but sucked down to the abbyss will be worse choice I guess. Hardly a need for deep stop deeper than 21 meters..... if you are only doing 40-50 meters and has say 15 minutes deco stop obligation. As long as you are within 12 meters depth, the algo can re-calculated by the dive comp even if you do violate deep stop to save ur life. I personally don't care about deep stop if 50meters as max depth, but my 10 meters to 3 meters I do super super slow. The worse & strongest current in Indonesia is not Alor. Its Capalulu Straight. There is a tide station there and its 9-10 knots at peak, no joke. 1° 52.962'S by 125° 19.945'E its between Ambon and Halmahera. Anything 30 miles north of Ambon Bay, its crazy current zone already exposed to Indonesian Throughflow Dive safe Peter....
  2. LOL....I bought this for its 4K video at small foot print, 12MP is crap by today's standard for still photo but its choosen by the designer to defend its 4K video I am sure. Even GH-4 still photo is crap. I got it for 4K video too, change-able lens model. If I want to take serious photo , rarely though as I don't really like photo much ... I use my D800 or for simple ones for work I use my RX100mk1 or Mk3. I am in a 4K junkie fever now, I already have two Hero4 Black 4K, Panasonic Bullet Cam 4K that HX-500 and that Inon wet wide angle lens for GoPro and wet close up wide angle lens...so me now hunting small footprint 4K camera which Nauticam will have housing for....he he he he. I love small 4K cameras, regardless of its limitation they are cute and fun to use and more affordable. .
  3. The display does not show what ISO it chooses nor shutter speed for A mode video, but for photo with half button press you see the data. I also wish it will show shutter speed and ISO choosen for video... would be nice.
  4. Aha good info, thanks. My first camera was a Vivitar back in the early 80s or very late 70s, 35mm film days but I forgot the details of its operation or the model number, I am sure it was not full manual AE because I won't want one ...LOL. I was like 13-14 years old back then. I wanted a Nikon but for some reason the saleman was so good...he sold me a Vivitar....ha ha ha. Later I got a cheap Nikon F-801 silver body. That was my last SLR 35mm film camera. Later near mid 90s , I got a waterproof Canon A1, that ends my 35mm film camera ownership...I flooded it...LOL. Next camera ownership was a digital one, used...Nikon Coolpix 5000 early 2000s. And surely digital camera from then on.... I never had the opportunity to mess with pre-auto exposure one, my eldest brother did.
  5. I said the second dial on top is EV +-, the extreme right one. The Lens Dial is F/Aperture but there is an A in red and must match with the bigger top dial also an A with red = P mode Spin the lens Dial away from the red A for any F setting....while top big dial is A ( red ) = A mode. Spin the big dial on top to select shutter speed, while lens dial in A ( red ) camera becomes S mode. Spin fron lens dial away from A ( red ) to any F setting and at the same time top big dial to any shutter speed, we get M ( manual ) mode. This is so confusing....LOL. It has no separation between movie mode and still photo model like RX100 with its MOVIE MODE and sub menu : - P mode - S mode - A mode - Manual mode In a good way its like, you can do all the manual setting all you like in video. in S mode the rear small dial is unique, it can set shutter speed but limited to 2 down step and 2 up step of what the big top dial setting is. Example : I set shutter at 1/60 with big top dial. While recording.....I then mess with rear small dial, it allows me to go 1/50 and 1/40 down and 1/80 and 1/100 up....he he he so unique and what purpose, I guess its fine tuning as the big top dial does not have 1/50 or 1/40 or 1/80 1/100. It has 1/60 and then jump to 1/125. While recoding in P mode, all auto, spin the F lens dial and then it becomes A mode. Spin top shutter dial to any shutter speed setting, it becomes M mode. Indeed unique. Must get to know the camera better, as my muscle memory and operational memory is still very much RX100. Positive or not this setting method of LX100, I must use it in real recording situation to know more. Accidental touch/spin sometimes can be a problem...LOL. The iA mode shows none of shutter speed of aperture data on LCD, but allows us to mess with EV +- only, top dial right side. If close up shooting it shows the flower icon, the macro....that's it. Its ISO can not be locked like RX100 to a certain range we want. Minimum focus at max W.A is not bad, approx 4cm....its icon stated 3cm but visually I think its 4cm. .
  6. I don't like the control dials of LX100. It does not have the traditional MODE dial on top for A, S, P, M. Its a 2 stage activation process with the F ring on lens as 2nd stage switch.... which for me its so odd and not logical, I mean coming from Sony RX100mk1, Mk3 and even GH-4. I do not understand the logic of two top dials, one being shutter speed and one other being EV compensation...why ? I like cameras where I do not need to read the user manual first time use and its logical to operate it. Other than this weirdo for MODE setting, its a nice camera for 2 hours I messed with it., where 20 minutes was for reading the User Manual....ha ha ha, trying to find the MODE setting. Solid built. Decently big 7.2V 1,025 Mah battery for a camera this small where most other cams now uses 3.7V for USB charging compatibility. Its freakin heavy at 400 grams vs RX100mk1 at 240 grams, me weighted them. Video IQ is good. For low light video it allows 6400 ISO, noise laden but if one need to capture at such low light for content and not quality, its not too bad. Sure, I hate the add-on flash and not built in. I loose things which is not attached to a camera..LOL. If say they increase US$50 and allow touch screen and buttons control like GH-4, that will be nice. Land use touchscreem capable is nice for somethings. Underwater I prefer buttons control for sure, as it is a housing OEM nightmare to deal with touchscreen. It does not have the 200mbps 1080p like GH-4 though. At the price point is not a bad toy to own for a 4K junkie. That's the short report for now. .
  7. Hi Peter, Thanks for the reply. My Nauticam housing and the rest of the toys will arrive in a week, I hope. Can't wait to mess with it. I tested the GH4 with 12-35mm Panny on land. Using 4K, 3840 pixel, focus is slow but it hunts a bit even when subject in middle field. Also being a camera type lens and not a camcorder or say an RX100, zooming on a subject with bright background will cause insane flicker on the bright areas....ha ha ha. Since it is mirrorless, I wonder why the video focus is not as smart as my Sony NEX-7 and flicker free like NEX-7 when zooming. Anyway, overall I am happy with new nice toys to play with.... Thanks n Dive Safe SPP
  8. Hello Dp, This is quite an old post but in case you are still curious. X7 is actually ISAW Extreme. http://www.actionpro.de/en/newx7/ http://isaw.com.ua/en/Isaw-A3-extreme.htm I got both the X7 ( now dead, bad unit I guess ) and the ISAW A3 Extreme ( i got 2, in case 1 went bad again....LOL ) My advice is , get the GoPro HD3+ Black and set Protune + Camraw and be happy. Choose its Dive Housing 60 meter rated or its the older HD3 original housing actually under a new name. Yeah, get the LCD BacPac too. The X7 or ISAW A3 Extreme has built in LCD screen and they are so dark, you go blind underwater with it, unless it is a night dive. You can't remove the LCD screen, it is there permanently. The 1080 50p ( or 60p ) resolution on this camera is very bad. The 25/30p is good. At 50p its like scaled up and not true 50p. Its so called UW white balance the Aqua is useless for your kind of dive. I have not dove the X7/ISAW beyond 10 meters, was only doing shallow test dives and retire it after I seen the LCD screen is so dark and I can't see anything. Not having an equivalent CamRaw like the GoPro is another turn off for UW use, its hard to color correct it later in post. Its exposure is jumpy too, not so smooth. Kind of small flicker at times. Wifi smartphone or tablet Apps , the GoPro is light years ahead. Hope that helps. I have the Sony Action Cam AS100 too, if you considering it. Again for UW use, stick with the GoPro HD3+ Black and be happy. Happy shopping....
  9. Hi Again Peter, Dang, I must be blind. I saw Chris photo and its M14 http://chrisparsons.smugmug.com/photos/i-4xk9SF5/0/M/i-4xk9SF5-M.jpg Same here too... http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17709_5 Solved. Sorry for the request and thanks Peter. SPP
  10. Hi Peter, May I trouble you a bit please. Is the assc port at the door a M14 size ? The front left at main body surely is an M16 for HDMI. The Nauticam user manual stated the assc port at the door is M14 but Backscatter and Reef Photo reccomended the vacuum valve of M16 size. I want to use the vacuum valve at the door assc port and keep the M16 one at main body for HDMI. I fear the NA-GH4 user manual has a print mistake on the M14 assc port size at the door. Page 9, item 20 http://www.nauticam.com/images/product/p_299.A.pdf The exterior look for the port plug is always the same between M14 and M16, so me kind of worried. http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17709_7 Hope its not too troubling you. Many Thanks SPP
  11. KC, I think its not totally about "Half done right". When an OEM has professional models above the consumer level, they need to protect those pro models. Pro model is where the $$ killing is made...I mean the buyers get stabbed here....ha ha ha. Sony is loosing money as an electronic company, but their insurance business is making good money. http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2014-02-10/sony-tv-unit-loses-money-while-sony-financial-exceeds-profit-forecasts http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/bulletin/why-sony-should-quit-the-electronics-business/20595 Black Magic is a good example of a company which it probably has nothing to protect, it only has so few cameras and they try to make the best for these models......at a reasonable cost. But R&D need money. Small company like BlackMagic can not order sensors by the 500K quantity, so they will progress slowly but I hope they will do well. Its quite the same like Nvidia graphic cards, the crippled some functions of their new high end gaming cards in order to protect the crazy expensive Quadro line which is used mainly by professional graphic station. Recently FLIR did the same thing : http://hackaday.com/2013/11/04/manufacturer-crippled-flir-e4-thermal-camera-hacked-to-perform-as-high-end-model/ They sell low cost US$1K unit by locking its capability, while the engine-internal is the same as a unit costing US$6K ....ha ha ha. Just firmware lock....holy cow. Its all about busines, how to rip off more $$. If your girlfriend or wive on day request you to get her a Hermes as below : http://www.therichest.com/luxury/shoes-hand-bags/the-most-expensive-hermes-handbags-on-the-market/ You will know that no leather will cost that much.....he he he....its the perceived image you paid for. Dive safe.........
  12. A.Y, URPRO-SRP has filter for greenwater. http://www.snakeriverprototyping.com/Products/urpro-gr-filter.aspx You can buy naked frame SRP filter adapter, to use that 55mm glass GR filter. http://www.snakeriverprototyping.com/Products/blurfix3-55.aspx Do becareful when buying filter adapter for Hero 3 camera. Hero3+ is a slim waterproof housing. It is 40 meter rated. It does not have LCD bacPac rear door, perhaps due to water proofing integrity, so you can not use LCD bacpac on this housing. GoPro do not make one. Planned to make one but it did not come to market. When one buy the LCD BacPac today from GoPro, it is called Limited Edition. It comes with free HD3 Original 60 meter rated housing and all the bac pac doors. This means the filter adapter one need to use will be Hero 3 original housing one, and not the Hero3+ slim one. The poly material of HD3+ Slim 40 meter housing is thinner than the Hero 3 Original 60 meter housing. This Hero 3 Original housing is now named BacPac Compatible housing or some perhaps call it Hero 3 Dive Housing. http://gopro.com/camera-accessories/replacement-housing Hero 3 Original WB if using Auto, has more greenish/yellow tint than Hero 3+. That is the main difference. Other difference : In good light, Hero 3+ NARROW mode of 1080p is less noise than Hero 3 Original Are you using AWB for above GoPro video or CamRaw ? Later... Yikes 68 meter....that I do not venture to.....he he he. Thanks for the link David. .
  13. Hope David recover fast and 100% .... David, stay tough yah.
  14. Hi Davide, You are good, I am not over rating you....serious. You are one of the guy I keep on list, for me to always watch your new videos. I like the way you color things, very natural. Must lear from you. I am a poor colorist, so me use simple ones from GoPro Studio....ha ha ha. I am blind on Edius NLE, I only know Vegas Pro and no others....ha ha ha. Ok got it, understood on why ur video a bit soft. I use a Dell U2711 but my i1 Display Pro calibrator went bad recently and I can't calibrate the 27", which I usually use as reference display. This U2711 has strong cyan....that is how I see it compared to my 2 other low cost non U model Dell. I know what you mean, TV are too much fake. How deep is the actual helmstation of the Tug Boat wreck ? Thanks ..
  15. Hi A.Y, I would avoid Polar Pro blue-water ( cyan /red ) filter. Its too fake a red added. Use URPRO by SRP if you want cyan filter. In decent viz water and ambient light, use cyan filter at 3 meters or deeper. I still use my old glass type URPRO-SRP cyan filter from HD2 era, which SRP thin it down to remove black edges. The plastic adapter SRP uses for HD3 or HD3+ ( Blurfix3 or just Blurfix3+ ) is 55mm threaded, so I can use plastic cyan filter or the glass one 55mm. Sunny weather 21 meters deep with viz if 15 meters, the URPRO-SRP cyan filter will do well and you do not need to worry about loosing half stop, you won't see noise. 2.7K is native ( sort of ) to GoPro sensor and it has one of the best image for UW. You can later crop to get clean 1080p without the ugly edges a flat lens housing produces on very wide angle. CamRaw you must use ( must choose Protune to get CamRaw ), as GoPro AWB shifts alot UW and transcoding to Cineform AVI or MOV is only worthwhile if Protune + CamRaw is used. Dive safe and have fun yah....
  16. Hi Davide, I like ur video, as always, even a test video is beautifuly done. If you choose Protune mode and more so if CamRaw WB choosen too, transcoding first to Cineform AVI or MOV will recover the details easier , where Protune records with camera processing to minimum......noise included while sharpness reduced. No need NEAT video and the like, mess with it in Cineform Studio when file already a Cineform AVI or MOV and at the same time editor like Vegas Pro will do parallel work with Cineform Studio. What you can do to improve with not much extra work is sharpness for your test video. Under PROTUNE color preset, the sharpness is pushed to approx 75% and looks like the average all auto output, your scene of the corals on the wreck will be sharper. Try it and you will see, its not over sharpening , its just suitable sharp. If you record in AWB or auto all the way and no Protune in a GoPro cam, transcoding to GoPro Studio is no worth the effort. The powerful and easy thing about Protune and CamRaw is its color recovery capability at a distance when using ambient sunlight and water not too clear but of course you must use GoPro Studio. Its a decently powerful color correcting software and free too. More color touch up can be done with the editor you choose, which must be compatible with Cineform codec. If one choose 32 bits floating point in Vegas Pro, the Cineform AVI is much easier to color tune for difficult scenes than a normal/standard MP4. No doubt the MP4 Protune records in 8 bits 4:2:0, the Cineform AVI is 10bit 422 upsampled, garbage in garbage out still applies, but the color tuning flexibility of Cineform AVI is better than in its raw MP4 Protune, in hands of expert ( not me...ha ha ha ). While GoPro so called CamRaw is not as raw as professional cameras RAW, its a great free Raw WB, for a camera costing so little. In the capable hands like yourself, I bet you can maximize Protune + CamRaw to its maximum with Cineform AVI in GoPro Studio and parallel running to another editor. Have fun Davide...
  17. Hi David, Mine is a Extech i5 by Flir. Its a low cost 80 x 80 pixel resolution http://www.tequipment.net/Extechi5.html Used to be US$2K but now its lower I suggest you buy this one : http://www.tequipment.net/FLIRE6.html This is a 160 x 120 pixel, better resolution but price still within US$2.5K. FLIR practically owned the thermal imaging world. See resolution difference http://www.flir.com/thermography/americas/ca/view/?id=61647&collectionid=845&col=61648 Since u got so much expensive camera toys, troubleshooting using thermal camera is better than those spot measurement using the other type of infra red thermo gun, which the laser guide dot and the sensor reading area is not that accurate/aligned anyway. The higher resolution model you choose, you can shoot 1 image from a bit further away and get more data than lower resolution one at same distance. It will come handy for all cameras asset you got or when you tinker with them. Have fun shopping David.
  18. Camera heating up is also one of the reason for fogging, because temperature difference is what trigger the dew point. Water moisture in gas form in air aka humidity has a limit to how much air can hold that water in gas phase, before it has to give it out in liquid form which is the fogging we know or rain in extreme case of high water moisture storage. Hotter air can hold more water moisture. Per 1 cubic meter of air at 30C at 100% RH can hold as much as 30.4 grams of water or 30.4 cc of fresh water or 600 drops, eye drop size in gas form. In contrast, a 20C ambient air at 100% RH can only hold 17.3 cc of water or grams in gas form. This is the simple reason if in Bali your car air-cond is very cool at 24C average and you wear Sunglass and sitting in front where the air cond vent is powerful, open the door when arrived in Tulamben......woosh, foggy glass you get the moment you step out of your car in mid hot sun.....within 5 seconds. The hot humid air which touches the cool sunglass can not avoid releasing its gas form water moisture to become liquid/fog......that is gas law, no way around it. Do any LOB on a good vessel with 23C cool non-stop air cond running for our rooms. Place a DSLR in the room for 3 hours, run to stern of the LOB vessel with that camera to take picture of friends loading the zodiac, foggy lens guaranteed. In the topics at 90% humidity at 30C ambient, all one need to do is get in the water which is 2 degrees cooler and when the lens of the housing has come to the same temperature of the water, even without hot air generated from camera operation in the housing, the dew point is already reached for the air near the housing lens innner side for plastic housing. Aluminum housing is better in this case as the port lens is never faster to be cooled by surrounding water as the alu housing material. So housing lens fogging is hard to occur on alu housing. Polycarbonate vs glass, glass gets cooler faster and more so for thin 1.xx mm GoPro housing lens, compared to 2.5mm polycarbonate housing material the GoPro uses. It is all about temperature difference and how wet the air is to begin with. When camera in operation and air in housing gets hot, even the humidity is the same as the minute the camera was placed in the housing, the temperature spread gets higher and it will be easier/faster to trigger the fogging. Use dewpoint calculator to see, it is easy. http://www.decatur.de/javascript/dew/ Enter 30C ambient. 90% RH +-1 You will get 28.18C as "fogging temperature". For plastic housing so small like GoPro, what I do is simple. Get a 1-2 liter clear see-thru plastic bag. Place GoPro and housing opened up, in the plastic bag. Flatten plastic bag to remove all wet ambient air. Inject dry air from scuba tank into plastic bag till plastic bag expand like baloon. Tie with rubber band. Allow 5 minutes to generate expedited drying of moisture attached to seal of housing and all components of the camera. Dump air out a bit, close camera housing while still in plastic bag. DONE - One just place the driest air available for scuba divers in camera housing, beating any air cond air which at best is 40% RH in the tropics. Scuba tank air, if dive operator is anal on quality and more so when they have Bauer Securus sensor, that is a minimum of -55C dew point or well under 1% RH ( -55C DP Temp = 0.05% RH actually ) or equal to European EN12021 breathing air standard. -55C dew point temperature is filter life expired limit under EN12021. However, there are many places in Asia where air standard is so poor, expect 10 to 20% RH and some drops of water in scuba tank...ha ha ha. David is right, even metal hold water moisture, let alone flexible seal on camera housing. If ones operate a NIST certified/traceable -80C dewpoint sensor, one will be amazed that copper tube is a "wet" metal. Plastic is VERY WET. Seals are WET WET WET. Desscicant and dry scuba tank air is a potent combination for reliable non fogging on micro sized camera housing like a GoPro with minimalist air-space. Dessicant is cure, scuba tank dry air is preventive. HD3 Black under highest data bit recording in Protune 46mbps, will have temperature rise of 25C or starting at 30C and be 55C in just 13 minutes in open air without a housing, imagine when one uses the housing. GoPro HD3 or even HD2 is a "hot" camera, but it does not overheat as fast as Sony NEX7 in 1080p 50fps. Attached is a test of HD3 Black, 1080p 60fps Protune 46mbs for 30 minutes. All in Celcius, taken with a FLIR/EXTECH i5 thermal camera. 65.5C is the lens metal perimeter which is also the heat radiator of the CMOS sensor. HD3 Black when using Protune is crazy hot and is more prone to fogging than any other GoPro lower grade version. In desperate condition where I do not have time or the plastic bag, I spray scuba tank air to housing with camera inside it, 2cm open door and close it. Not the best but not too bad. I then use two of GoPro HD3 Black and use them alternatively, let one cool. The more often one use the GoPro camera, the heat it generated will dry some part of the camera itself, it will be less fogging prone than a virgin brand new camera, given that the storage is in the housing and the housing remain closed while in storage and been exposed to dry scuba tank air often. The fogging test, attached. Done on GoPro HD1 some years ago. TEST 1 - Ambient air 30C ( see smaller digit on temperature meter ). Cool water to 10C ( larger digit ) with ice. Close camera housing with ambient wet air of at least 80% RH, typical tropical country. Fogging blind within 4 minutes camera recording. TEST 2 - Use scuba tank air to inject and dry camera+housing, minimum -55C DP dryness of air but total water moisture removal is perhaps only as good as Zero Celcius dewpoint at best, but more than enough. 12 minutes camera recording no issue. Even 2 hours recording is not an issue as fresh water coldest temp is never below zero Celcius or no more than -2C for salt water of typical 35,000PPM salt. Have fun guys....n safe diving.
  19. Hero 3 comes in 3 flavor. HD3 White ( improved HD1 engine ), HD3 Silver ( improved HD2 engine ) and HD3 Black, the true HD3. For UW use HD3 Black, set Cam Raw Protune. Run the free GoPro Studio 2.0 which allows transcoding to Cineform 220 mbps the original MP4 Protune file. Run the GP Studio 2.0 in parallel with other editor, say Vegas or whatever you use and many recognize Cineform codec. Being recorded in Protune and when transcoded to AVI ( PC ) or MOV ( Mac ) however one mess with it, it is only the "active metadata" being mess with, Cineform file stay virgin forever and one can reset it back as many times as needed. Most color correction can be done and easy to be done in GoPro Studio 2.0 ( old one called Cineform Studio ). Fine tuning color one can do in their NLE of choice, while both programs running together. Cineform Active Metada 101 https://cineform.zendesk.com/entries/23259777-What-is-Active-Metadata- Cineform is robust and the soon VC-5 codec by SMPTE will be based on Cineform. GoPro CamRaw MP4 is not true raw like photo file, but it is very good for UW use. Color recovery is easier and better than AVCHD 28mbps for distant objects. On land or water, Protune CamRaw makes color matching easier to other camera and specificly on land, one can bring out the shadow details much better. There is no other micro camera with wide angle lens this cheap this good for video, for now. Once you get hooked to CamRaw in Protune, and know how to recover the lost color, you will love it for a US$400 product ready to use and the free lighweight editor/color correction GP Studio 2.0 can deliver...for FREE. Sun-ball or banding is not an issue when shot in Protune + CamRaw. Noise is very low, as long as choose MEDIUM or WIDE and not NARROW FOV. 2.7K WIDE ( 2714 x 1524 ) is one of the best recording resolution to use for HD3 Black, you can render to 1080p as-is or crop and get pure 1080 x 1920 while removing the edges distortion WIDE FOV usually give from a flat lens housing UW. 1080p MEDIUM is not bad to use too, if one does not wish to go too wide. Make sure card is not Sandisk, it is now capped to 35mbps when using Sandisk, even Sandisk Extreme new one or the older Extreme Pro, if firmware is latest V03.3 on HD3 Black. Use approved card and one will get the 46mbps MP4 Protune with latest HD3 Black firmware, or use 1 firmware number lower. NOTE : Protune on HD2 or HD3 Silver ( both 35mbps ) is not as powerful or has the fidelity as Protune in HD3 Black at 46 mbps. Protune is a capture format, not a delivery one. Attached some test sample I did. Hope this help. Have fun......
  20. Hi Guys, See attachment, hope it shed some light. Photo of this type cannot be very good, but at least something to see. I have not mess with the Ninja 2 color setting or contrast or whatevere.......at all. Video source is from GoPro HD3+ Black. Light is long tube rather cool fluorescent lamp The DP4 screen has always been warmer but it is a bit too warm actually in this test. One thing for sure, DP4 seems to be a better screen in terms of resolution, at least for me. I have DP4 Nauticam and one of the reason I got the Atomos N2 was because I am not happy with focus peaking of DP4 which is only white shade. White shade for focus peaking is not so useful UW. Prefer red and yellow. My lousy eyes love focus peaking too... I am learning more what Ninja 2 can do, and if I like it I may get the Nauticam housing for it. Happy shopping.
  21. Excellent as always EJ. Your video is one of those worth the wait and as reference to how great macro video should be done. Thanks for the upload... .
  22. Go to : http://www.ulcs.com/ Look for GoPro accesories. It uses standard GoPro tripod and has the standard ball from UL to mount on any cameras, with clamp of course. That ball is already loctite-ded to the GP Tripod and sold with GP tripod. With ball to ball extension like this one : http://www.nauticam.com.au/products/light-mounting-system/double-ball-arms/index.html You can place your GoPro much forward if say ur DLSR dome may get in the way of GoPro 100 degrees view in WIDE mode. All u need will be 2 clamps and the above mentioned parts. Stick to HD3 Black and not silver for UW video. Have fun.... .
  23. One more good news for DP4. I ask them on focus peaking colors and they said they will make more than 3 colors. For those who has bad eyes for close up and needing to focus on objects like shrimps clear antenna or whatnot, it will be a blessing. I was told the new firmware can be upgraded without sending the unit back to SmallHD...wow nice !!! .
  24. If any UW video I would put as MUST WATCH list, it is EJ's video on Billboard no 1. I have all his videos downloaded as inspiration and learning guide. EJ is talk very little and do A LOT kind of guy = lots of REAL good results Its a combination of many VERY good things EJ videos are, that is why I love them. It has its own class and far exceed many I have seen. Ocean Essay Episode No 3 Lembeh Straight 2012 is evidence of great skill, incredible patience and effort to capture some extremely hard to get footage. Lovely and suitable music too. https://vimeo.com/39261636 Thanks EJ. .
  25. 121, The key is to have many toys , each can do a specific job better than the other under the right circumstances. You keep forgetting that GoPro is small so very small, it has its use.....not a single choice for sure, but as a B, C or even D camera. Get a HD3 black, play with it and you will learn more of its potential based on its size or foot print , ready to dive at US$400 with decent wide angle IQ. Underwater within 20 meters in the tropics in good viz, is plenty of light, no issue for low light. Open your horizon, there are many fun toys out there. All my cameras are considered toys, because I don't generate income from them. I waste money on them. So it has to be of all sizes from baby small to compact to mirrorless to FF DLSR, at least I get fun out of them after abandoning Sony TR950 camcorder. Macro for GoPro is just an extension of fun, since I have Inon 165, Subsee +5 and +10 might as well test some. Inon even sell macro wide angle for those seeking creative touch. I tried it but I don't like it, but some people like it. Now a simple question. Let say I want to do video reef work at 3-5 meters, great reef colors, good light , very nice visibility. I have a budget of US$550 only for something ready to use and dive, housing must be rated 55 meters. I want the video to be 1080p 50/60p, forget 2.7k. I don't want 24 or 25p because I will pan and swim along the reef. I want wide angle capability at no extra cost and must be at least 100 degrees FOV underwater. What video camera is best to choose ? .
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