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BigJiminTN

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About BigJiminTN

  • Rank
    Hermit Crab

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon G10
  • Camera Housing
    Canon WP-DC28
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-D1
  1. Thanks both for your thoughts. One of my cables is genuine sea & sea, but I'm not sure about the other. The other is a bit thinner and has a tighter spiral. I tried it with both cables and got unreliable results with both. Maybe my "good" cable has some broken fibers. It doesn't look kinked or anything to suggest damage but who knows. Maybe I'll splurge on a new cable. As far as manual triggering goes, it seems to be very reliable if you don't count the times I forget to let the strobes recycle. Interestingly, while window shopping cables I noticed that one of the photos for a Sea & Sea brand cable was a promotional drawing of the "New" multi-core fiber cable. This could be really old promotional material, but if it is relatively new tech then my cable might not be multi-core. I bought the first cable when I bought the YS-D1 8 or 9 years ago and the second a few years after that. If I can't get TTL to work, I'll just keep practicing my manual shooting. It was only a few dive trips ago that I started shooting the camera in full manual, and that in itself was a game changer. Mastering the strobes is just one more piece to the puzzle.
  2. I dive infrequently because I am landlocked, but every time I do get wet I try to improve my UW photo skills. My current rig is an Olympus E-M10 MKII in a Nauticam housing with one Sea & Sea YS-D1 and one YS-D2 that was purchased later. I have tried S-TTL in the past with the YS-D1 with mixed (more bad than good) results. Eventually I settled on firing the strobes in manual. This is more reliable, but I still miss some shots if I change the distance to my subject and don't properly compensate. A few years ago I added a 2nd strobe, a Sea & Sea YS-D2. Probably a stupid move when I wasn't completely happy with the YS-D1, but I was at least comfortable with the controls and the performance when it worked. When I purchased I was thinking of manual operation, and in that regard the YS-D1/2 strobes work well. Recently I've been doing some experiments on dry land to see if I would have better luck using TTL and the YS-D2's "Custom" mode. I'll cut to the chase and say no, I didn't. After setting the strobe to custom mode B, the one that it supposed to work with my camera, I tried some shots using both TTL modes and the Fill flash mode on my camera. Taking the exact same photo, not moving a thing, and waiting for the strobe ready signal, I got shots that were basically black, completely blown out, and well exposed. I don't understand how the system can be so unreliable. Consistently low or high would be easy to compensate for, all over the map just doesn't work. It's not the camera as the TTL system of the camera alone is fine. Even with the modest built-in flash, I get virtually the same exposure across the aperture range although it does drop off at f20 where the flash lacks the oomph for such a small aperture. My experiments were with just the YS-D2. Given the similar unreliable operation of the YS-D1 on S-TTL, I would hardly ever get them both to work correctly at the same time. I can't afford to change strobes our housing at this time so I have to live with what I have. Am I wasting my time messing with TTL for these strobes and my Olympus? Is there something that I'm missing? If someone has figured out the secret to make Olympus and Sea & Sea play nice together I sure would like to hear how you did it. Thanks
  3. I am in the process of upgrading from my starter strobe, an Ikelite AF35, to a real Sea & Sea YS-D1. With the new strobe comes a new tray and arms since the AF35 uses a unique tray and mounting system. I'm not positive the two strobes will work well together, but it seems a shame to let a perfectly functional strobe go to waste. Until I can afford a second real strobe, I would like to keep using the AF35 as second fill strobe. My problem is that the controller and sensor for the AF35 are integrated into the handle, which means the handle and all must mount on my new tray. Since I can't find a pre-manufactured mount made for mounting the AF35 on any other trays, I'm curious if anyone has successfully made their own mount. Ikelite does have a mount (http://goo.gl/xfUtR) that says it's intended for mounting on a video tray. (Seems like an odd place for a strobe.) I don't know if I'm willing to risk my new tray by modifying it to accept this mount.
  4. I might be interested. Online documentation for anything from Fisheye is sketchy, but this model is probably worse because they count it is discontinued. One thing I haven't been able to determine about these fisheye lights is whether they have the ability to turn off when a strobe fires. I'm looking for a focus light that can do double duty as a video light, but the beam spread of this light doesn't seem wide enough to prevent a hotspot when taking a photo. I am curious what the light can do, and how you were able to use it. Did you use it for photo, video, or both?
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