Jump to content

Erbster

Member
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Erbster

  • Rank
    Damselfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.undersea-images.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlands, UK
  • Interests
    Diving, photography, sailing.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea DX-D200
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240 x 2

Recent Profile Visitors

2835 profile views
  1. I have made a noobie error. For the benefit of anyone else asking this daft question: To select whether the flash fires at the beginning or end of the exposure in the D500, there is a button (4th below menu) which allows selection of front or rear curtain sync with the rear selector wheel. I was looking for a menu option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I have a Nauticam housing, which has some kind of electrical to optical converter. Feeling a bit sheepish that I did not understand it better. I’m sure I’ve used rear curtain sync on my previous camera (D200). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I feel like a bit of an idiot having to ask this question, as I've had my D500 for quite a while. I want to use rear curtain sync, but as the camera does not have its own flash, it seems that the sync mode is set on the flashgun. Thats fine for my speed light on land, but using my Z-240's underwater, I don't know how to do this. I use the Inons in manual mode and I don't think I can set rear/front curtain sync. Can anyone "shed any light" on this please?
  5. I can't see any info on this- I think this is an important factor in choosing an u/w camera body. The Nikon info talks about eye point, but I don't think that means the viewfinder size.
  6. I think this is feasible but I'm not convinced the light from the spotting torch would be bright enough. If I were pursuing this, then I think it would be worth having a trial out of the water by temporarily fixing some fibre optic to the spotting light and trying it out.
  7. Encouraging comments; thanks Phil. MFT seems to tuck the boxes for me, but it seems like a big step. I'm off to have a look at some housings in the flesh, so to speak.
  8. Thanks for these replies. One of the attractions of the MFT system is the availability of a wide range of u/w suitable lenses. What is the working distance of the 60mm macro? I was wondering about diopters too- is there the possibility of using a dry diopter, or just wet? I'm still unsure about whether MFT is right for me, and how it will feel coming from dslr. It also occurs to me that there might be a successor to the em1 before spring...
  9. I am considering a MFT system to replace my ageing D200 system. I think a camera like the Olympus EM1 might be a good compromise for me, but I am not sure what lenses would be right. On my current system, my most-used lens is the Tokina 10-17, which I like because its wide and focuses very close. Most of my diving is in gloomy green water, so getting close is essential. I also want a macro lens? What magnification is possible? I'd be grateful for the benefit of the collective wisdom.....
  10. Well, I didn't feel an especially strong need for two light sources. The black plastic which screws to the strobe face was made from a DVD spindle, so it had one hole.
  11. Looking to improve my lighting of small subjects, I have made my own fibre snoot for my Inon Z-240. I got the idea from Rob White's www.marinepix.co.uk web site. Details and photos on my blog (undersea-images.wordpress.com); improvement suggestions welcome.
  12. I have sets of both the white 1800mAh and the black 2500mAh cells in my Inon Z-240s. They both last at least 4 dives for me. My intelligent charger often reports delivering over 2000mAh to the white ones if I run them flat (I usually change the batteries before they go flat). I bought lots of sets, because I use them in lots of other devices, as others have suggested.
  13. Hi Tim, A couple of questions: what makes lighting harder when using this lens with a dome instead of flat? Why would using a longer lens be better in a tight space- my instinct was that the smaller the space, the wider the lens ought to be? Charles
  14. Hi folks, I have a pair of Sea & Sea YS-110a strobes, which are a noticeable improvement over the original YS-110 strobes (I used S&S strobes for many years before that too). However, I have heard about a number of people having problems with these strobes lately and get the impression they are "built to a price" (more than usual, I mean). I am now wondering about replacing them with Inon Z-240s. As far as I can tell, the relative merits are: Sea & Sea: PROS: I prefer the shape; cheaper; easy to fit bottles etc to use as snoots (I have a number which I use regularly); I already have them! CONS: I have lost several dives recently with unexplained problems and have had to return one of them as faulty (Sea & Sea UK very helpful and have repaired FOC). Inons: PROS: A bit more powerful; much better design of fibre optic connector (I use old-fashioned cable at the moment, bit expect to upgrade my housing and want option to shoot fibre-optic TTL); faster recycle time; I can continue to use my current Sea & Sea arms and cables; more reliable? Anyone care to offer the benefit of their experience? Thanks Charles
  15. I'm wondering about replacing my Sea & Sea YS-110a's with Inon Z-240's. It's not clear from this thread whether the battery compartment is sealed or not. Can anyone clear that up? Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...