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Art99

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Everything posted by Art99

  1. One of my customers wanted an adapter to use his FTechX Classic 700 videolight (www.ftechx.com) with Ultralight Control Systems (ULCS) arms. I provided an adapter which might be useful to others with lights or attachments, which connect with Loc-Line arm systems, but would rather use Ultralight Control Systems arms. A picture of the adapter alone and the adapter "about to be connected" to the FTechX Classic 700 videolight is attached. The adapter components, in order of their assembly, are 1) Stainless Steel Round Head 10-24 x 2" (cut to about 1 3/4") 2) ULCS AD-MINI Adapter 2) Loc-Line 51895 Fixed Mount for 1/2" System 4) 10-24 x 9/32" Stainless Steel Tee-Nuts with Brad Hole, trimmed to fit the Loc-Line Fixed Mount Using the various available Loc-Line adapters this can be used with either 1/2" or 1/4" Loc-Line components. If you have any questions about this DIY drop me an email. Art99 art@FTechX.com
  2. Nick With regard to retrofitting your HIDs--- I saw this general need and developed a LED upgrade that is plug compatible with the L&M battery pods without any modifications. My first model FTECHX Classic 700 is priced at a lot less than the Sunray upgrades. It provides somewhat more than 700 lumens but I plan on making available much higher lumen output models that are similarly plug compatible and also very competitively priced. I am very interested in your comment about the "old and faulty wet connector design". Could you be more specific about the connector issues. Thanks, Art art@ftechx.com
  3. YES, this quite an IMPRESSIVE videolight! Although, I'm a developer of a plug-compatible LED upgrade for Light & Motion Sunray halogen and HID systems (www.FTechX.com), I too find it difficult to draw good information with regard to specs, performance and actuality from marketing releases. The Subtronic flyer, which is downloadable in German from their website, states that the battery capacity is 7.2 volts at 7.2 Ampere hours resulting in a total energy capacity of 52 watt-hours. The flyer also states that the LED is "6 x 7W" which suggests a total of 42 watts. The cited burntime of 75 minutes is consistent with the 52 watt-hour battery energy capacity BUT IGNORES THE REALISTIC INEFFICIENCY OF THE LED DRIVE CIRCUITRY. Thus either the actual power applied to the LEDs is less than 42 watts or the burntime is exagerrated. 7.2 volts would be the nominal voltage of 6 series connected 1.2volt NiMH cells. With a total of 18 AA sized NiMH cells, three strings of six in series, one could reasonably expect a 7.2Ah capacity. By the way I was fascinated by the comments relating to ViDSLRs. Do you folks think there is a market for combination Strobes-Videolights? Art www.FTechX.com
  4. Fuzz In the course of developing an LED light head to upgrade Light & Motion Sunray Halogen systems with a fully plug-compatible 700 lumen LED head, I tried a lot of adhesives on plastic and metal experimental systems. (On the system, FTechX Classic 700, now available for sale, I use only o-rings and quad-rings; www.FTechX.com ). The experimental systems were tested out at dive depths of over 80-feet and were watertight. Lab testing of the units was ok to >180-feet. I've had very good luck with "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant, Fast Cure 5200". It is available at Home Depot stores. In my testing I used it to seal metal-to-metal and metal-to-plastic. I would recommend putting a stainless steel screw and nut thru the hole and sealing the whole thing up with that sealant. I'd glop the hole with the stuff, then put the screw thru it and place the nut on snuggly. Despite the title "Fast Cure" it takes 24 hours to fully cure so you don't have to rush. Good luck! Art www.FTechX.com
  5. Hi I have a few comments which might be useful. Although I too do not read German, I do have technical expertise in LED lights; I developed a LED videolight L&M upgrade (www.FTechX.com) that is fully compatible and wet pluggable. The specs for the Werner LED ring lights are pretty straightforward. The LED R 36 consists of 72 individual white LEDs which collectively emit 1300lumens requiring an input power of 15.6watts ( 10.8V and 1440mA ). With the smallest Werner battery (112mmX62mmX31mm; 10.8V ; 1.6Ah) the burn time at full power should be about one hour. The spec sheet suggests that the 1300 lumen output is equivalent to a 100Watt tungsten lamp. This may be a bit aggressive but not wildly so (assumes 13lumens/watt for tungsten). One open question is how the 75° angle is determined. The Werner light uses the natural focusing of the LED plastic lens AND appears to have these lenses in direct contact with the water. Under these circumstances, the effect of the plastic lens is reduced. (Try wearing your eyeglasses underwater without a mask!) Werner may have compensated for this effect for the reported measurement but it is not footnoted in their literature. IF the reported measurement was made in air then the angle in water would be significantly increased because the lens will NOT be as strong and the brightness will be weaker because the light is spread out further. I’ll discuss this effect in a future Technology Blog (www.FTechX.com). I hope these comments help. Art99 art@FTechX.com
  6. John Thanks! Which of the companies did you use? Did you actually get them to replace the batteries in the Sunray Min packs or was it some other battery packs? I was hoping to find some company that would cell me a new pack so I wouldn't have to send in the old packs so they could reuse the connectors and cases from the old packs. I assume that's what you had to do. Art99
  7. Hi All My local dive shop told me that L & M no longer sells replacement batteries for the L & M Sunray Mini Video lights-- Neither the Mini Elite (NiMH) nor the Mini Pro (Li Ion). Is there another manufacture that is selling these batteries that I can purchase from in the US??? Art99
  8. Does anyone understand why the connector on the battery pod needs to be changed for a Sunray1000 upgrade (or why the Sunray 1000 has a different connector? An upgraded pod would no longer work with an older, e.g. halogen, light head??? My understanding of the operation of the earlier battery pods, like the 35W halogen, is that they achieved multi-levels by PWM (pulse width modulation) of the battery. This would also work with LEDs. Any insights??? Art99
  9. Adam Neat! It shouldn't matter whether you shoot manual or TTL with preflash. Art99
  10. jeremy I haven't tried one of the Nano units BUT no question that LEDs are capable of being triggered by the flash to turn on and off with almost no delay. A quick way to test the unit is to take a picture with the rig in a mirror. Then look at the picture you've just taken. If you see the Nano on while the Strobe is on then it isn't turning off or isn't turning off quickly enough. Although with a powerful strobe it might not matter-- the strobe will overpower any "hot spot" of the Nano, I would not be very happy with that performance anyway. Let us know how you make out. Art99
  11. Drew Rather than use a red filter with your lights, would you think that a "redder," dimmable viodeo light would give more flexibility? Art99
  12. I"m really looking forward to further technical details from DEMA. LEDs are already better than HIDs in luminous efficacy so with the good implementation which L&M does, this should be a really neat unit! Art99
  13. The original Canon battery on my SD 500 finally gave up. I replaced it with an unbranded battery with Canon specs AND at the same time switched from a 512K flash memory to a 1G memory. I don't seem to be getting as much underwater time/number of pix with this new combo. Is it the unbranded battery?? How can I tell if it works as well as the Canon without buying one of each? OR is it possible that the bigger flash memory uses more power than the previously smaller one?? Help-- my next dive trip is early April and I'd like to resolve this before then. Art99
  14. Sounds neat to use a fiber optic (or two fiber optic ) cables with the DS50. How do you do that. What kind of cables do you buy and where can you get them? I've been using the TTL sensor and just aiming it at the internal flash. Art99
  15. OK Guys. I think I figured out how this stuff MIGHT work. I own three(3) didigial cameras- Olympus 3030 which has a preflash and which I use underwater with an Ikelite DS50 and digital sensor; the Minolta Xt which I have used underwater without an external flash (tests with my Ikelite setup indicate it has a preflash); and a Casio Z-40 which I use only on land(tests with my Ikelite setup indiates NO preflash). All these cameras have no light sensors except thru the lens. I verified this by covering the lens and noting that the flash went off even when the subject was well illuminated. THUS the camera makes its decision to flash or not based on the ambient light only. In the case of a non preflash camera it MAY set the exposure by monitoring the light while the shutter is open and closing the shutter or quenching the flash when the correct exposure is reached. I acutally doubt this since I have read that only SLRs hare true TTL. So I expect that in a non preflash camera, flash exposure is a guess! In the case of a preflash camera it MAY set the exposure based on the sensor in the lens reading during preflash . If this is true, it is likely to be a more accurate exposure. If it is not true then probably the preflash is simply to make it easier for the autofocus to setup. Has anyone taken apart a camera that could provide further insight?? Art99
  16. ingha j I am curious as well. I also have a Casio Exlim Z-40 which I love for land use because it has such a large LCD and fits in my pocket. I am toying with buy a case and trying it undrwater. In that regard, I tested it with my Ikelite DS50 and digital sensor and have tentatively concluded that the Casio does NOT have a preflash. Thus my curiosity about how cameas like the Z-40 set exposure with a flash and NO preflash. It's a great land camera and would make a nice UW camer if it could work with a strobe. (By the way, I use my manual focus underwater to cut down on shutter delay and the Casio has a manual focus!) Perhaps someone else has some advice on the Z40 for both of us. Art99
  17. James Without the preflash, how does the camera djust the exposure?? It seems that it is like a manual flash but without control of the aperture (on automaticv cameras like the Minolta XT) I'm still puzzled? Art99
  18. James I found an article on testing slave strobes by taking a photo of the camera with flash in a mirror. If the Strobe is sync'ed you see the image of the lit strobe. I did this test with my Ikelite DS50 and Digital sensor set for preflash (the way I use it with my Olympus 3030). Bottomline-- it seems the Minolta Xt has a preflash! (In contrast my Casio Exlim Z-40 does NOT) Minolta recommends a Se & Sea flash which does not replicate the preflash but ignores it and the synchronizes with the main flash?? I don't understand this. Art99
  19. James Thanks. On another forum I got the impression that a lot of folks were unhappy with Epoque but that still leaves three others. My impression is that if the camera has a preflash and if the strobe supports the preflash that it might go to a lower f/# based on the power of the strobe's preflash. I'm going to try and find out if the Xt has a oreflash. Thanks again, Art99
  20. I'm looking for a compact strobe for my Minolta Dimage Xt that is small, as inexpensive as possible and would work very reliably for a beginner. Does the Minolta Dimage Xt have a preflash which would mean I should buy something like the Ikelite Dx-50 with a sensor or an Inon unit also with a preflash sensor Or Does it not have a preflash and the Sea and Sea Ys25 would work just as well? I'd like the system to reliably give me good pictures without much adjustment. Art 99
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