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Everything posted by Vondo

  1. I found this article quite disturbing: https://www.43rumors.com/the-dark-truth-about-jip-in-the-last-5-years-jip-has-sold-off-assets-of-over-14-companies-not-one-has-it-ever-restructured-or-continued-development/
  2. Thanks. Yeah, the focus on the EPL-5 is pretty bad. Pure contrast focus. As I understand it the Olympus has phase detect sensors at certain points in the camera sensor. The Canon M6 Mk3 has a full phase detect sensor (every pixel is doubled). I haven't seen head to head comparisons, but from what I understand it performs quite well. I'm not considering the EM-1 series, but the latest EM-5.
  3. And the EOS-M series, which is the same size or even a bit smaller than the OM-D 5 Mk3. Even with the EF-M to EF-S adapter for the 60mm macro lens, both the Nauticam and Ikelite systems use the same port or a similar sized one as the Olympus 60mm macro lens. I'm not considering SLRs, APS-C SLRs. Maybe I should take a look at the GX9 too. But what I'm really interested in is someone's take on the handling of these various cameras.
  4. I shoot EF topside but no desire to use such a large system underwater.
  5. I need an upgrade to my EPL-5 system. Even before this news I was thinking the Canon EOS M6 MkII. Am I crazy? I am a Canon shooter on land and mostly macro underwater. At first I thought the logical thing was the EM-5 Mk3, but the more I looked the more attractive the Canon was. For instance I compose and develop in 3:2, not 4:3 so 10% of the MFT sensor is wasted for me.
  6. No clue about the grip, but I have the wet lens holder you are talking about, I think. (Olympus housing for E PL-5). I like it and it's nice to have a supplier which makes simple stuff for under $100.
  7. I tried the small gauge reader version of those and wasn't super impressed, but maybe I should try again placing them more in my line of sight. I've got 3-4 dives coming up in a month or so, so I'll try then.
  8. I've only been wearing glasses for a year. The idea of contacts is a couple of steps too far for me. I won't toss my uncorrupted masks, though, in case I end up going that route.
  9. I tried a search, didn’t find exactly my question. I’m a mirrorless shooter without viewfinder. Maybe the next camera will have one. So I suspect I need more area than just for reading gauges. Even adjusting settings using the screen is becoming tough.
  10. I have now become old enough that I need help seeing well enough underwater to use my camera. My distance vision is good enough that I don't need to consider full bifocals underwater. So I've been looking at two option. First would be the cheap option, the XS Scuba gauge reader mask which has 1.75 diopter for the bottom third of the mask. The other option would be to have lenses put in the bottom HALF of a mask that I already own, but this is about 3x the price. Anyone else gone through this and what did you do? Am I going to regret getting a mask which has 1/3 vs 1/2 of the bottom area setup for close vision?
  11. Coincidently, the EBL charger was just recommended as the best USB option by Wirecutter, my go to site for reviews. https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-rechargeable-battery-charger/
  12. I was there about 8 years ago and went diving with Cresta Dive Center. One of the dives they offered us was in St. George's Bay, right off their shop. I'd do that dive again; it was loaded with macro critters. The diving in the open sea is, as advertised, more wrecks, caves, and WA, but you should be able to find macro subjects as well.
  13. I carry on strobe arms. Never a problem. Of course I usually get the extra screening (swabbing for explosives).
  14. I mix a D-2000 and a Z-240. I just turn the Z-240 down a half stop compared to the D-2000
  15. The Necktek stuff definitely can deliver more to ports if you are not drawing out of all of them. Your use case is particular in that you really want to charge your AAs by USB. Fine, but that's not my or everyone else's use case. No one size fits all. I'm happy with an A/C charger as they are just as small. USB, for me, is for charging phones, iPads, and GoPro batteries and these auxiliary ports on something like the Necktek are great for that. And the point of the small power strip, is again, that it is small, light, and provides a number of outlets. A USB port that can do double duty is icing on the cake. There are lots of ways for people to lighten their load and while these suggestions may not work for you, they might work better for others.
  16. For AA/AAA I have a full set to swap out for everything plus maybe an extra 4 in case my charging gets behind. Usually everything is all charged by bedtime with 3-4 dives per day. (Inon strobes and a couple of flashlights.) Keep in mind there are at least 3 Eneloop branded 4-battery chargers 1. Two channel charging 2 batteries per channel 2. Four channel, one for each battery 3. Rapid charge four channel I use #2 and have avoided #3 as I've heard it may not be good for the batteries in the long run. I'm not sure the second one charges in 2 hours, but not too long. For sure it will get things charged between coming back before dinner and before I get to sleep.
  17. The 13” Mac Pro ships with a 60W charger and the 15” with an 85W. You can charge with any charger, just more slowly and if you do intensive work, your charger may not be able to keep up.
  18. I have a Maha at home which I’ll use for conditioning. On the road I use the eneloop single channel charger. And I only bring one charger. My strobe batteries easily last a whole day, so I have time to run through 2-3 charge cycles (4 batteries) a day. I bring 1.5 spare sets. 2 spares of every other battery.
  19. I've got a USB-C plus 3 USB-A (old style) charger and I love it. Make sure the USB-C is powerful enough for your laptop (although you probably don't need one quite as powerful as came with it). Another way to lighten up is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N854DK. You have to make sure these work on 120-240V though. I have a nice one from Monster (that I can't seem to find anymore) with 3 AC ports and one USB. That way you only need one outlet on the boat/resort and only one adapter to physical adapter from whatever they have to your local format.
  20. If you want to blow it out, these things are pretty nice for that purpose. They attach to a BCD hose. https://www.piratediver.com/Marine-Sports-Air-Blower-Nozzle-Air-gun-p/1881.htm
  21. A quick google turns up this https://www.adobe.com/downloads/updates.htmlwhich has versions going back to 2005 for the Mac and Windows
  22. Same as what others are saying. I am in your boat. I shoot a Canon system on land but Olympus underwater. The bulk of the SLR housing, ports, and lenses is just not for me. Then figuring in that the best lens choices for underwater and general purpose land use don't overlap so much, it's kind of like having two completely different systems anyhow.
  23. Technically what I suggested doesnt have anything to do with AirPlay, but the key is that there is extra hardware. On the other hand, Im if the opinion that anyone in the Apple ecosystem (phone, iPad, computer) should grab an Apple TV too. When Ive tried using DLNA its worked but been pretty clunky in getting things talking to each other, interfaces, etc but I gave up years ago.
  24. If you have a Mac mini server, make iTunes there aware of your content. Then get an AppleTV and use the "computers" app to play things off your Mac. That's the "Apple way" to do it.
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