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Dixter

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About Dixter

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  1. Hey scott... I'm interested too... sent you PM... can you tell us the serial number please... SN should tell us the vintage of the circuits... thanks DB
  2. Just got back from Bonaire... used the G10 in a canon housing.. noticed on some dives a few drops of water in the housing... The question is that i remember seeing a post here about two or more months ago showing how the water leaks into the housing and how to fix it... but I can't find the post now... anyone here remember where and can you point me to it... thanks in advance...
  3. PM has been sent.... Its a new one with all the new setup...
  4. Disclaimer up front... I am not associated with Ultralight. Just a pleased customer of their products. About a week ago one of the discussions was about the underside of some of the newly released Ikelight housings... There are now three threaded holes there. I was going to check out what would be required to use those holes and a few Ultralight fittings/arms to create a tri-pod support system, mainly for video shots with the Canon 7D or 5DMKII. I found that as good as the Ikelight tray is, another option is for you to take it off and use a different setup. The replacement tray I'm writing about is the Ultralight TR-SBLD. The advantages??? 1) lighter in construction 2) smaller for travel 3) the handles (ultralight AC-H) are a more sturdy design and don't allow the strobes to flex/flop around the way the Ikelite handles. 4) versatile design lets you modify/add extras if needed.... OK.. thats the tray/handle setup that is the base for the tri-pod implementation shown below. To create a tri-pod setup using the Ultralight components is very easy with the tray setup... 1) attach (screw in) a AD-1420 Ball onto the bottom of the tray at three locations, Left side, middle and right side, the threaded holes are already on the tray. 2) take three clamps, AC-CS, and three arms, DB-08, and now attach the arms to the ball with the clamps. 3) adjust the arms for any particular stance you need the camera housing at for shooting the shots/video. Its that simple... works fantastic. :-) Some advantages... 1) for travel, you don't have to take the setup completely apart... just loosen the three clamps and fold the arms under the tray... when in the travel position the setup is about 14" x 4" package for packing in your bag... 2) for diving, you can keep the seup in the travel position, arms folded under the tray, until you need it. 3) the spread of the 3 seperate arm/ball attachment is much more steady/stronger than a single point connection solution because the balls are spread over a ~ 12" span under the housing tray. 4) the front arm can be extended out in front of the housing for use while shooting macro shots to steady the housing. While the left and right arms are folded up under the tray... 5) the tri-pod arms are strong enough that when folded under the housing tray, they can be used as a handle when you are being handed the housing at the front of the dive or you handing the housing out of the water at the end of the dive... 6) topside you can now use the tri-pod to hold the housing while your working on it at the camera table... 7) obviously you also get to choose the length of the arms that you want to use for the tri-pod... Just in case your interested in this setup here is the parts list... 1 each TR-SBLD tray 2 each AC-H Handles (grey) 3 each DB-08 arms 3 each AC-CS double clamps 3 each AD-1420 Balls And as an added option... Ultralight also makes a tripple clamp that works great as a small point and shoot housing tri-pod or for any size camera topside tri-pod. And if you already have the arms.. The part is listed as AC-TRI Last note: If you decide you want to use the Ikelite tray that came with your camera.. just screw in the three balls in the three threaded holes on the bottom of the tray, add the clamp/arms and it too works.. its just not as steady because the spread of the balls is much shorter... but it does work fine.... Hope this info helps...
  5. Thanks for the reply... for some reason I was under the impression that most folks using the extender with the Tokina 10-17 were using full frame camera's... didn't realize you can use the lens with a cropped camera and extend it also.... Pics look great...
  6. Can you put a Kinko X1.4 extender and Tokina 10-17 on a Canon 7D ??? and if so, which one of the Kinko?? and what kind of picture should you expect.... thanks
  7. Another very good option is this glue... its liquid aluminum that most likely is stronger than the native aluminum that your applying it to... FasMetal 10, HVAC 19770, Epoxy Putty Its made by Devcon, tele.. 508-777-1100 from the front of the box... High strength, aluminum filled epoxy for bonding, patching, filling and sealing. Used for repairing large and small holes in aluminum and other metal castings: builiding up metal surfaces,repairing air conditioning coils in HVAC cooling units, sealing leaks in pipes and tanks, sealing, filling, bonding similar and dis-similar metals, wood, porcelain and other materials.... I can tell you its very very strong... we tested it in a glass bead blaster to see how strong it was... the bead blaster did not put a dent in it...
  8. There is a new focus option on the 7D... its called Spot AF.. I like to use it so I know exactly where the focus point is when I take the shot... I was wondering if I had made a wrong decision when I bought the 7D because I also have a 5DMKII and knew that Canon was going to be upgrading the 5D with firmware... but now I'm being told the 5D will not have 60P... I like the 60P on the 7D for slow motion work... and I also like the fact that I don't have to carry an extra flash for topside shots....
  9. I haven't done this yet, but after seeing the holes there I was planning on getting three of the Ultralight adapters and putting two facing forward and pointed slightly towards the side and one facing backward, centered... then you can mount the arms onto the balls with the ultralight clamps.... say 3 of the 8 inch arms... Then you can fold the arms out of the way until you need to use them as a tripod... then just swing them down into position... with the 7D built in level indicator you can get it all level'd the way you want and then start shooting stills or video... Once I figure out the length of the Ultralight adapters, I'm going to get this idea working... :-)
  10. Not sure I understand the " Black Square " vs the " Red Square " question... can you ask it a little differently...??? The Ikelite housings are pretty much all the same... they just interface with the different controls of each camera body... Some of the main differences with the 7D vs 30/40/50D is that the 7D is a more refined body that is very fast and responsive... and also shoots 1080P HD video... it also has better focus and the frame rate is faster. Does this help with your question... feel free to ask away...
  11. Just to make sure... the Canon 10-22 is not a fish eye, its a wide angle lens, the Tokina is a Fisheye... and being as this is, there is no reason to get rid of the 10-22mm, it works fine for both underwater use and topside use... the Tokina is better suited for underwater use as the topside curved line distortion can overtake your desired effects... its a fun lens to use topside but its usefulness is limited...
  12. If you need a RAW converter for testing out the Canon 7D one great way is to download Phaseone Capture One software... its on version 5 now and does a great job converting the 7D RAW files.. the tryout is for 30days.. I also tried out DXO and it was fun watching that program correct the 15mm fisheye.... Also, if you can find where Phaseone is touring the USA right now, they are giving each attendee a free license for just letting them show you the software... thats a great deal...
  13. Thanks for bringing this up... the 8 inch dome is the Aquatica, I have changed the description and added the corrected part numbers from B&H...
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