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Everything posted by AYahoo

  1. Hi All, I've been working on it for quite a long time now, and I managed to break 3 flashes until now, but now it is 99% working, so I'm happy to share my DIY. So I have the Olympus OMD EM1, with the Olympus housing, I wanted to have a Led trigger, that will NOT have batteries (powered from the camera) and will work with TTL and I will be able to adjust the intensity from the camera itself. So It wasn't easy... I have to research a lot of LEDs different sizes colors and wavelengths, wanted it to work with any fiberoptic out there... not to have to change anything in my setup. So to make a long story short, it is working! I will share the process in general now, and then I promised a good friend to do the same for him, so during that, I will upload some more detailed process. the process was to take an FL-LM2 (Olympus original flash) I bought few of those cheap online: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FL-LM2-top-flash-lamp-for-Olympus-E-PL7-E-PL5-E-PL6-E-PL8-E/32812314097.html took it apart, and then with the help of this post: http://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Strobe-Trigger-for-Olympus-OM-D-E-M1-Mark-II/ I changed the capacitor to a 1uf, removed all the flash tube board. Now the 5V that I get from the camera is from the accessory port, I knew which pin is the 5V, so I connected a wire to the 5V pin, now that I have 5V and LEDs, all is left is to trigger them. LEDs that worked the best for me where (believe me it wasn't easy to find the correct LEDs that will work every time): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100pcs-5mm-Red-Round-High-Power-Super-Bright-Water-Clear-LED-Leds-20-000-MCD/32745321464.html then I disconnected the 750K ohm surface mount resistor (marked as 753 on the board). and connected the negative of the LED to the IGBT marked as p4006 on the board. so Yeah this is not the best way to light a LED 5V and high current, but since it is very very short pulses it is fine. Now the LED were working good, but when I put them back in the case and the housing it wasn't firing, the distance + the reflective sticker in the housing and the fiberoptics had too much attenuation and it didn't fire the flashes. So I have to 3d print a part, to have the LEDs placed inside the housing in the correct place, and now it is great! I will upload the detailed how to when I will make a new one + the STL of the 3d printed file so anyone could do it. In the end, the cost to do so will be 30$ flash, 6$ for 100 LEDs, time and a 3d printer. I'm attaching a photo of how it looks + a video of the final result. https://youtu.be/iD_NyQPrC3I
  2. So, It seems like I chose the wrong approach, The mod looks very clean and nice, and the MAL-1 fits great.BUT, it is too small, the big distance from the fibers mad it too weak (I think, still have to investigate) but the flash won't fire... I have a different approach now, I will take a LED FLASH (like the one from the mobile) and try to make it work from the camera. Uploading the mod MAL-1 pictures.
  3. Hi Guys, I'm looking to find the Olympus PEN \ OMD accessory port pinout. My goal is to take the Olympus Macro Arm Light (MAL-1) And connect it to the trigger of the camera, so it will act like a flash trigger. I was thinking about connecting led to the FL-LM2, but I think this solution will be more robust and elegant. So I started to pinout the Flash connector and the FL-LM1 Has 33 pins, Most of them are not connected, I'm attaching what I got so far. The large octagon is GND and the square is VCC, so I have 4 more pins that one of them is probably the trigger, and another one should be the ready state (once the flash is ready for firing). The pitch of the connector is very small and makes it hard to pinout, so I'm trying to trace the IGBT pin4 to the connector, but this is 4 layers PCB which is not that easy. so, I'm still trying but is someone knows the pinout, it would be great! Thanks.
  4. I've opened it up also... I'm trying to see the writing on the chip with no success... Clownfish do you a pic of the circuit? I'm attaching mine... but I can't seem to see what is written on the main chip (looks like a small microcontroller). If we look at the connector from left to right top row first then. 1 - NC (Not Connected) 2 - NC 3 - GROUND 4 - NC 5 - NC 6 - NC 7 - NC 8 - NC 9 - NC 10 - NC 11 - NC 12 - NC 13 - NC 14 - ?? 15 - ?? 16 - GROUND 17 - ?? (Connected also to 30) 18 - GROUND 19 - NC 20 - NC 21 - GROUND 22 - NC 23 - NC 24 - GROUND 25 - NC 26 - NC 27 - GROUND 28 - NC 29 - NC 30 - ?? 31 - NC 32 - ?? 33 - ?? So there are 5 pins working... 14,15,17 (30), 32, 33 So who will lift the glove to do the reverse eng...
  5. I Haven't received the capacitor yet, but I'm thinking about implementing a cell phone led flash... this will be the easiest (I think ).
  6. Hi Guys, I was a little bit busy lately, but I'll try to answer some of the questions... My bad, the Y is V (each div is 50v) and the X is time (ms). I think you are semi right about the "loose out one the maximum possible duration" assumption, since the camera doesn't know the size of the flash installed, and the size of the strobe setup (can be 10 external strobes working together) this is the key feature that you are missing, I can install a very big flash on my hotshoe and still get a correct exposure of the image. so I think the Olympus Eng. deiced to use the size of the capacitor that will get a good coverage of daily use, since we are not using the same setup as they predicted (external strobes), we don't need that big of a capacitor, I did many tests will all kind of capacitors, I think that the magic number is around 30-50uf, I've used the 30uf and during the test only one extreme situation was under exposed compared with the original (f22 1/160) with big distance to the object, so I've ordered the same brand and same specs as the original capacitor but 50uf to test and check (I will update when I will get it). Regarding the pins, I was also interested, but I didn't get there, I still have it disassembled and I might have time in the next few days to check it. Other than that, I will try to update soon, but I took my friends RX100 MK2 and disassembled it completely, it had two capacitors 1x48uf and another 33uf connected in series, so 81uf total, again tried many settings ended up with 1uf capacitor to only trigger the external strobes, NO TTL! but we managed to take 2-3 photos per sec compared with 1 photo every 4 sec with the original, so about x10 faster. (didn't check battery consumption but I'm sure it will be much better). Last but not least, I've tried to trigger a led, to check if I can get better results, but I had some success but not enough time to investigate it properly.
  7. Hi All, I've created a script to automatically add EXIF data & a histogram to your image\s. just download and run... http://www.asafel.com/blog/item/18-photoshop-script-adding-histogram-exif-data-to-your-images P.s. fully editable result, all the text and the histogram can be edited.
  8. OK, so I finally had sometime to check what is going on with the TTL. I thought that the problem was that the capacitor is not big enough to supply the "full" duration of the pulse needed, so I setup a small test to verify it. I will not upload all the info & data, since I don't think it will interest anyone, I'll cut to the results (if anyone want the full report, contact me). This is the setup: A small circuit board with 4 capacitors on it, Original 102uf, 10uf, 22uf, 33uf, A small dip switch to select the current capacitor. And a OSC connected to see the signals. Also about the preflash that we've talked about: NO TTL, full flash: TTL ON: You can see the small pulse before the flash, this is the preflash. 33uf NO TTL, full flash: you can see the fast charge time. OK, so if I cut to the chase, I've tried all the capacitors with different settings on the camera, the 10uf was always underexposed. the 22uf worked well until the f18, this was the maximum that I was able to achieve with the correct exposure. and the 33uf gave exactly the same results as the 102uf. if we compare timing (charge to full): 10uf: 350ms 22uf: 1662ms (or 1.6 sec) 33uf: 1277ms (or 1.2 sec) (I think the difference here is due to different manufacturers, you would expect this to be longer than the 22uf). 102uf: 3796ms (or 3.8 sec) I can upload the images of the test if anyone wants. Conclusions: I think that if you wish to use TTL than cutting down from 3.8 to 1.2 is good enough preserving the TTL signal, I'm sticking with the mod for now . If you don't use TTL (god know why) than you can go even lower than 10uf, I think even 1uf, this will give you very good results: super fast & low battery usage. (on second thought you can use 1/64 flash, so maybe 10uf is enough). I'll soon be testing it on RX100 ii that my friend is asking me to MOD to allow faster shooting, I'll update you all. Have fun!
  9. Hi Nir, the E-PL3 does output pre-flash, I have it tested, and I will post some of the findings later.
  10. You are right, this is the reason I said I will test some more... I want to wait until I will receive my second flash (I modified the original the second one is still on the way), than I will be able to make a comparison test & I have somewhere a digital osc, I could measure raise time, pulse length & charge time. So, I will update you all P.S for anyone who want's it to work without TTL it is still very good solution, for the TTL, I have to check more.
  11. OK, so I was very curious about the solution... so I made some time to test it, this is not 100% test yet, but here are some of the results: I did not image editing other than re-sizing 1/160 f22 NO EXTERNAL FLASH: Set the camera on 1/160, but camera limitation changed it to 1/100 f22 EXTERNAL STROBE ON MAXIMUM POWER (SLAVE): 1/160 f22 EXTERNAL STROBE ON TTL: VIDEO OF THE FLASH SHOWING TTL SIGNAL (Green light is TTL was ok). I still didn't check to see if I can get the FULL POWER of the strobe but I wiil .
  12. PS, I think if you want to test the theory and you have time, just put a tape on the flash, something that will block some of the light, and see if it still output the correct exposure from the external strobes
  13. Hi All, I will do a better testing soon when I will have more time, but for now I think your theory is wrong, I'm only guessing since I wasn't able to find the TTL algorithm anywhere online , so my explanation is this: the camera doesn't know what flash system is connected and what is the "maximum" guide number that it can output, so it fires the pre flash, lets say 1/50,000 pulse and gets 20% lighting, so for 100% it will need 5 times more power, your theory that the camera controls the intensity of the flash, but you are wrong, it controls the duration of the pulse, so let assume that the algorithm is linear, then 5 times more duration is 1/10,000 sec pulse, so it will fire 1/10,000 sec pulse and quench the power after 1/10,000 sec. so you will get the correct exposure, also for your example it needs the strongest flash, so it will give the maximum duration of the flash that will be without quenching the power, so I think it will still work, but again I"M ONLY GUESSING When I'll have time I will test it more, and will update here.
  14. Well it does work, I'll try to upload a video & sample photos, I haven't had time to dive test it yet, but it should be the same underwater. If you go the logical way, there is no way for the camera to know the guide number of the flash that it attached to it, it can be the FL-LM1, or the bigger FL-14 or the bigger FL-300R or the bigger FL-600R... and actually any hot-shoe flash that is capable of TTL signaling. so why not smaller? the whole idea is for the camera to measure the "flash system" (can be many flashes together...) result, and calculate the intensity accordingly. if the modified flash is firing a pre flash, so does the two external flashes, so the camera is picking up the light from all 3 flashes (in my setup, 1 internal + 2 x external), and calculates the output accordingly, so since the camera has no idea what flash is connected to her, and how strong it is, it shouldn't mind... but again, i'll try to upload some images during the weekend. P.S. I'm stating to obvious, I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE TO ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE TO YOUR CAMERA, OR YOURSELF, DO IT ON YOU OWN RISK
  15. Well you have some options, first is just short circuiting the two terminals (don't forget to disconnect the flash from the camera). this is the simplest way, but it will make a big spark and since this is your first time I guess... it can be intimidating the more Correct way is to use a device like this - http://dx.com/p/skiliwah-repair-tools-sparkpen-capacitor-discharge-pen-w-buzzer-led-indicator-254651 Just touching the two ends of the capacitor will discharge it. and the third option is GOOGLE IT many options to discharge the capacitor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC6Va8nLVS0 .
  16. Hi All, I just came back from a trip to the Philippines (amazing btw) and I was upset that my setup E-PL3 + 2 x YS-01 was unable to shoot faster than 5 sec between shots. the main reason is that I'm using TTL, so the internal flash of the camera needs to recharge fully every time, so after thinking on many solutions, I manage to get a good working solution to shoot as fast as 1 sec between shots without loosing the TTL, on the way, I managed to save battery life of the camera, and some will say even reduce the chance of fogging since the internal flash is not heating the housing. So, how did I do it? simply, we all know that we don't really need the internal flash, just the external strobes, we need the internal flash to signal the TTL, that's all, so I just lowered the flash to 1/10 of its power. I'll give a small explanation to those who don't know how the flash works, if you do want and you just want to see the MOD jump ahead. Ok, so I'll try to simplify all the technical details so some of the things here will be not 100% correct, but just close enough. We have the flash bulb, to activate it we need power, the main problem is that to get to such a strong intensity we need strong power, and we only have a small battery in the camera, so we will use a simple device called capacitor, capacitors are devices that holds energy, so to "fill up" the capacitor with energy, takes time, the bigger the capacitor the longer the time it takes to fill it with energy, so all I had to do is replace the big capacitor with a small one, that's all. now my flash is very week (we had a 102uF capacitor, I used 10uF so 1/10 the strength [yeah yeah I know it is not linear but still you get the idea]). THE MOD, I'm using the E-PL3 that uses the same flash system as the OMD and other PEN units, but I believe it can be done to any flash. Full Flash before the mod: Full Flash after the mod: our flash is FL-LM1 or the FL-LM2. if you disconnect it from the camera, you will see there are two small bolts, when you open them up, you can see the whole flash system, there are two capacitors, one is the triggering (small one, can get to 4000v) and the second one, the one that we are interested in is the big one, 330v 102uf. THE FLASH: BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT! the capacitor is charged! that means it has 330v in it, be careful, you should discharge it first (how? if you don't know better not to do it ). so you can see all you need to do is take a new capacitor, solder it to the same wires with the same connectivity, and you are done, I've checked few capacitors before I ended up with this one - 350V 10uF, (No need to go higher - 10uF works 100% I get green light on my strobes every shot) I've tried also 1uF, it was too weak, you could see the flash firing, but couldn't get TTL to work 100%, so I guess you can find a better value between 10-1 but I'm happy with the 10uF. Old capacitor Vs New capacitor (smaller one is the new one) So now I bought a new flash on ebay, and I have one for "land" use (not modified) and one for underwater use. Total price of the mod, 0.5$ capacitor + 35$ used FL-LM1 total 35.5$! I can only give you one more tip, if you buy a new flash, buy in a different color (if you have silver camera, buy black and vice versa), so you could differentiate between them .
  17. OK! So it took around 7 hours to complete the assemble, but once it was ready, All I had to do was, load the software, set the fill to 100%, and press PRINT. didn't change any of the defaults, just tried to print and see.. ACTUALLY, it was AMAZING. I was sitting looking at the printer for an hour, and after an hour, 3 parts were sitting there on the build platform! the results are "OK", not the best ever, but surprisingly much better then my expectations. now I need to start and print some good stuff .
  18. Thanks for the insights. I bought the ultimaker, which got a LOT of very good reviews around the world, I saw many complicated parts with holes laying not oriented with the hole axis from top to bottom, but I guess it will all be trial and error, If it would be complicated, I might do it without the holes and then drill \ mill them. Regarding the acetone vapor bath, I know about it, I thought about it, but I'm not sure it will help, you wrote that you've heard about people using oven to re-bake the part, do you have a link about it? I just got the printer yesterday night, spent about 3-4 hours building 80% of it, (the manual states 6-20 hours to build it), so I hope to finish the assembly & to print the first test today, but I guess I won't have time . anyway, as soon as I'll see the results I'll know better . And I will have to insure my camera before going into the water with the new port Thanks, I'll keep you all posted.
  19. Thanks for the replay, I'm not talking about Lamination or Photopolymerization, I'm talking about the FFF. I'm interested in what you said about trusting this method and the pinhole gaps, pinholes gaps are not a problem is the walls are 100%, since it should be strong enough (I think ), but my Idea it to make the port, make a "back hood" for it, and take it to a test (or in a pressure tank or diving) and see if there are any leaks. My main concern now is the layer to layer bonding, is there any "heat treatment" like we do in steel to plastic? I mean if I cook the part in an oven, will it help it to bond? anyway this will take some time, since I have more parts I need to "practice" on . My first part will be a simple filter holder for my flashlight, nothing fancy.
  20. I have the original Olympus case, which has a very complicated grooves to manufacture, and we are in the 21th century I would like to just simply print it . Asaf.
  21. Thanks for the replay, My concern is also the problems regarding the layers and how well they bond. I think I will have to test it FEA is not a problem, but I don't think it is necessary here, since it seems like the main concern is how well the layers bond to each other. And threads are also not a problem, since I don't need any, but if I need, I do have a milling machine and a lathe machine. Well, I would like to hear more thoughts about the idea, since I'm about to put an expensive equipment in it so I will test it before, I think I will put it in an hydraulic pressure chamber to test it first... Thanks, and looking to hear other thoughts Asaf.
  22. Hi All, I just bought a new 3d printer (didn't get it yet ), but I wanted to ask if anyone has ever tried to print a PORT with the printer. I know ABS plastic is strong enough. and the 3d printer should be accurate enough, so theoretically speaking I should be able to print a port. Any thoughts? Thanks, Asaf.
  23. Ok, Thanks again Can you please explain to me why can't I use a zoom ring to zoom the 12-50? also do you have some UW photos to share with us with your setup? thanks, Asaf.
  24. Hi Phil, Thanks for the replay, You are right, I didn't notice that the lens if for Olympus 43, my mistake . But still My question is, what is better, using the 12-50mm or using the 14-42mm with wet lens for macro & wet lens for wide? Thanks, Asaf.
  25. I know it is an old post, but if you are still interested, I came across this site - http://www.aquatica.ca/en/products_dslr_a2x.html, and he sells uw remote for D2x.
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