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Everything posted by LChan

  1. I dove with Jack's Diving Locker last year. Great operation. If you are there, also do the Manta Ray night dive. That is a MUST do.
  2. He just spoke at the NCUPS meeting last month. Nice guy. Hope they find him.
  3. I have both the "new" and "old" ball ends. While talking with John two months ago, he told me he was switching to the new ball ends because of cost. So, while the materials are probably similar, I don't think I would recommend putting Loctite on the "new" ball ends either.
  4. i sold a housing to Australia last year, it was in customs for 2 months. there was no way of tracking the package via US postal. that's why I like UPS, but it just costs a lot more.
  5. Loctite is popular here in the states to prevent screws from backing out. It would be a bit embarrassing to have a screw back out, and your strobe dangling by your sync cord.
  6. I finally got my act in gear and put up pictures on my smugmug account. http://www.lchan.smugmug.com/gallery/1536474 see what you guys think.
  7. I used to own an Ike housed D200. I used both the 8" dome port as well as the macro port for the 60mm and the 105mmVR. The buoyancy felt good. It was slightly negative. I calculate probably less than 2 pounds negative (it was highly scientific - 3mm wetsuit without camera (8 pounds weight for neutral buoyancy), 3mm wetsuit with camera (6 pounds))
  8. the ULCS buoyancy arms (at least the larger ones) only compensate for the weight of the arms and clamps. 25% more buoyancy will not compensate that much for the weight of the housing/camera/lens/strobes.....
  9. Gorji sorry i have sold both of my Ikelite housings. the information re: the base is incorrect. first. the housing is completely enclosed with an opening for the port, another opening for the back. Both of which are sealed with an o-ring. the housing has two holes on the bottom that fit the screws for the handle and tray. These are not thru and thru so water won't enter that way. The base that holds the camera is permanently attached to the back. the only screws that have backed out where the ones that hold the handle and tray. A little loctite fixed that. If the screw holding the camera to the base comes off, you have a ghost or operator error. Unfortunately, from your info, you may have been misled by these other photographers. I assume they weren't using Ike housings.
  10. I have owned both the Ikelite housing for the D100 and the D200. The housing is very good. I have only had a problem with leakage using the 8" dome port and the 10.5mm lens. The stalk i had, had a small piece of plastic from manufacturing between the o-ring groove and the o-ring. Once i realized that and fixed it, i have never had a problem since. I think it is a very robust housing. the port is very secure except for the 8" dome port with the 10.5. This is a bayonet style with a quarter turn. It wasn't completely secure in my opinion but still useable. The other ports where very secure as long as you "clicked" the locks. If you failed to do this, then well, it is operator error. I'm not sure what you are referring to re: the base. I really liked the clear plastic. On at least one occasion, i was able to see the dust particle or hair on my o-ring after I assembled but before taking it underwater. Certainly saved me there. Plus, the TTL on the D200 is spot on when used with Ike strobes.
  11. I'm a bit confused.... the literature says if you want to start CS2 from lightroom, you have to use Lightroom's converted JPG/TIFF. Not RAW. So is Lightroom a RAW converter? If Lightroom doesn't convert RAW, it is a pretty useless program for workflow.
  12. when i had my Ikelite D200 housing - i had a leak from where the stalk attached to the dome. check that o-ring as well as the groove that it is in. mine had a small piece of plastic left over from manufacture, which was causing a leak when i used the 10.5
  13. When I talked with John this morning, he said he was quite busy with orders from wetpixelers. he mentioned that he is going to research getting the floats colored as well as finding the correct paint that would be compatable with the floats. Cor- thanks for hooking us up.
  14. I just ordered my set. I wanted to chime in re: shipping rates to Australia. I sold my old D100 housing to a guy in Australia and the shipping cost was outrageous. $250+ for UPS. He finally settled on Air Postal with the USPS. The cost was $80. The problem was it took almost 4 months for him to get it. The USPS originally quoted me 5-6 wks. Talking about a SLOW boat! btw: UPS would've gotten there in 1.5 wks. There are certainly cheaper ways of getting your shipment to Australia, but don't hold your breath!
  15. Good review. This looks really cool. I have seen another product that had fat aluminum bodies (fatter than the buoyancy arms by ultralight), that looked pretty good, except since it was made of aluminum, it had extra weight (which equals less buoyancy for the size of the body) as well as difficult to pack in the suitcase because of its size and weight. I'm glad that people out there are trying to solve problems that have plagued UW photographers for some time.
  16. it is a great book I bought it last year from Amazon.UK the shipping cost wasn't too bad.
  17. what are the dolphins used for? I have never heard of dolphin sashimi... or is it to decrease the fishermen's competition. The other pathetic thing is the "nice looking" dolphins are then sold to aquariums and water parks for big bucks for tourists.
  18. How can you tell if you have the converter 1 or 2. Is it labeled a certain way? Serial Numbers? The sea and sea website does not seem to have pictures or descriptions describing the TTL converter. thanks.
  19. I'm going on the wetpixel trip to the Solomon Islands. Coming from San Francisco, it looks like the best travel plans are thru Fiji. I have a couple of extra days before and after the liveaboard. Any recommendations for the remaining days? Which place do you recommend for a couple of days of diving in Fiji? anybody else going on the wetpixel trip? thanks.
  20. i concur. I was just at Sipadan Water Village. there was a couple there with a newborn. they alternated diving. the staff was very accomodating.
  21. Loftus. that soft preview did the trick. when i clicked on "simulate paper color" it darkened the blues as well as muted the green fluorescence. Exactly like the print. thanks that was very helpful.
  22. thanks guys. I have some playing when i get home.
  23. the plug-in allows me to determine using the printer or photoshop for the color management of the print. What is the difference? If i tell photoshop the exact printer, and paper with the proper profiles, shouldn't letting photoshop do the color management be better?
  24. My deepest condolances to his family and the Ikelite family. When I first started doing underwater photography - in fact my first diving trip, my brand new DS-125 died after 3 dives. Not only did Ike respond to my emails immediately, but he replaced my equipment as soon as i got back home. He and his company has always had the very best customer service, which I wish others would emulate. His products got many of us into u/w photography with good quality at a great value. Thanks Ike. God bless. -Larry
  25. Jeff - what underwater filter? ChrisS - I have been using the photoshop print plug in for the HP B9810 printer. It comes with a nice screen that i use to tell CS2 not only the printer, but also the exact paper and size that i am using. So I think i am using the proper profile for my printer and paper. I didn't realize that the colors i want might be out of the printer's color space. hmmmmm. that suxs. What printer/service are you guys using to get these fluorescent greens and other colors? I'm trying to make the colors on the print pop.
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