Jump to content

LChan

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    240

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LChan

  1. Posted

    Matt,

     

    What camera setup do you shoot? D-SLR or other?

     

    That information would be helpful, but not critical.

     

    Here is my generalization, if you can shoot RAW, shoot RAW. The WB changes are quick and there is no loss of information to your images.

     

    Exposure: Use the histogram if you have it, that will help you more than anything to determine how your exposure will look. Unfortunately, the LCD screen on the camera can sometimes fool you depending on how bright you have it set at. The histogram won't lie.

     

    I shoot in manual mode. Again this will depend on your system and strobe setup.

    Also will depend on macro vs wide angle.

    here is a start...

    macro: f22, 1/80, ISO 100

    wide angle: f8, 1/100, ISO 100

    both settings are with strobes.

     

    then experiment from there, the conditions change so much, deep water, shallow water, vis. You will just need to play and experiment until you get what you want.

     

    good luck

  2. Posted

    To me, there is a lot of zen to diving. The flying or floating in the water column, the serenity, the wildlife.

     

    I started taking pixs just to show my friends what I see and experience underwater.

     

    I'm fortunate that my day job pays the bills as well as give me extra to go dive and to take time off. To me, this is purely a hobby. The moment I start selling or go pro, I'm afraid this will no longer be fun. This is not to mean that I would not like to continually get better, hopefully win a couple of competitions (especially the all impt wetpixel potw).

     

    To me the voyage and the experience is what keeps me diving.

  4. Posted

    just thinking out loud....

     

     

    i'm not sure if the camera sensors would be able to recognize the UV wavelengths. It may be beyond the visible range and thus the camera won't be able to lock or focus into what is essentially "dark" to the camera.

     

    On the other hand, if you are able to put a filter to see the UV wavelengths, this could be a fun creative way of doing night photography. You would be able to see the phosphoresence of the coral, fish.... hmmmm....

     

    this could be interesting...

     

    What wavelength is your lamp putting out?

  6. Posted

    I too have the Ikelite port with the lack of MF

     

    From this thread I will definitely try out the 5T. I doubt if I can get a 6T.

    I don't think I will use the wet diopter too much unless i use it on my 60mm. plus the optics on othe wet diopter are not going to be as good.

    I will just have to be patient to sort out the "focus hunt".

     

    More practice this wknd. I'm getting ready to go to Sipidan and Lembeh in two wks!!!!

     

    Hey Alex,

    have you written your article on using the teleconverter with the 10.5?

    Which teleconverter are you using. My TC-17 won't take the 10.5

  8. Posted

    I just saw a post where people where putting a close up lens (5T or 6T) on macro lenses.

     

    I have a 105mmVR and put a 5T on it. I guess I am just not getting it. Just on prelim free hand shots, I didnt' seem to get any extra magnification nor could i focus closer.

     

    I am going to play with it more tonite, but can someone explain why to use the close up lens. I figure one difference between this and the wet diopter is optical quality. But then you lose the ability to take the 5T off.

  12. Posted

    I'm glad that I will be able to bring my screwdriver (7" and shorter of course), compared to my 4" or shorter scissor. What the F**k!!!!

     

    As a medical professional, I have seen some major damage with screwdrivers and other tools (aka screwdriver "ice awl"). Who makes up these rules? I can understand the security issue, but then why not take away the screwdrivers, tools, and scissors? I know the trip to asia is long, but bring some extra magazines or a good book!

  15. Posted

    So I have been diving a Seaquest Balance for the last two years. It is a great BCD for the tropics. But for cold water diving here in Monterey, I feel like I have outgrown my Balance. I am at the limits of the weight pockets. I want more D-rings, etc...

     

    So I'm now looking at getting a back plate and wing. The most tech I'm going to get is some very simple wreck penetrations and caverns. My setup will be with a stainless plate for cold water and an aluminum plate for warm water. I like the quick releases (like the OMS).

     

    What are you guys using. What do you like/dislike? I figured I would ask this forum since we have the same concerns with the extra camera equipment. Also, anybody using the quick release weight pockets (compared with a traditional weight belt?)

     

    Most of the LDS around me sell Halcyon. I don't mind putting it together from different manufactorers. I am open to any suggestions.

     

    thanks.

    Larry

  16. Posted

    Part of the problem is that these certification companies are FOR PROFIT!

     

    I have seen some places (especially at resorts) where they are like mills. Give them big $$$, Read this book, do these skills, here is your cert. Also there is no recertification. So, once you are taught poorly, unless someone teaches you better, you will never no or learn.

     

    We have a phrase out here near Monterey. Once you can dive Monterey on a regular basis, you are no longer a "princess diver". With the cold, the surge, kelp, you learn skills that you may never learn in the warm waters.

  18. Posted

    I think it's a shame when divers judge other divers by how deep they have been, it's like unzipping your pants to compare eel sizes. I barely ever tell anyone how deep I have been, it's like killing someone .. if you've done it you don't talk about it.

     

    this brings up a good point for all of you.

    Don't tell your insurance company how deep you go.

     

    I know people who have been denied life insurance or had to pay hefty premiums for "risky behavior". Medical insurance might be the same way. I always tell people I go to 60 ft.... Over 100 ft puts you into the "risky" category.

  19. Posted

    I started taking pictures on my 15th dive (11 after getting my open water cert). I started with a housed D100 and dual DS-125. It certainly helped me get my buoyancy perfect. It helped me get good at diving very quickly. I just don't think I would recommend most people doing what I did. I think having the newness of a new skill, new equipment (BCD, dive computer, etc.), and add on a housed dSLR, probably wasn't the wisest of decisions. I survived, the reef survived.

     

    I currently am AOW. Purely so that I can use the card to go on "advanced" dives in Hawaii and other places. I think the whole certification process is hokey and just another way for PADI to make more $$.

     

    With that said, I tell people probably the best time for them to start taking pictures is when they feel comfortable their life support equipment (BCD, computer, reg, etc...) , and with their buoyancy skills. Diving is not only for our enjoyment, but also we need to preserve for the wildlife as well as for other people to see.

  21. Posted

    I have the Canon SD550.

    what a great little digicam.

    i use it mainly for its video function, which it does remarkably well even for a lower res video. My video of a night dive with Mantas still gets wows from friends.

     

    since getting the SD550, i have lent it to friends, and their pictures have all come out very good. 7.1 MP and small form factor are definite pluses. Canon has since come out with an upgrade to that camera, and you may want to check it out. If you decide to buy, make sure the housing is rated for 130 ft because Canon sells some housings that are only rated to 10 ft (snorkeling depth).

     

    the underwater function is ok, i haven't had a chance to test it that much. I'm excited about Alex's magic filter for digicams that is coming out. that should work well with this camera.

  23. Posted

    After this discussion between Kriptap and Frogfish, I think the most interesting part is the wide variety of conservative to not so conservative models out there. My LDS sells a lot of Oceanics. They are a big shop, and thus many people here in San Jose have these computers. We are not seeing more people going into DCS, or at least nobody is reporting them.

     

    At the end of the day, the question is which computer can we trust? This is after all part of life support.

  24. Posted

    Gengiant

     

    I had the same problem with my D200 and the 60mm lens at Cayman Brac several months back. It was wierd, the focusing would work for the 1st dive, but half way thru the 2nd dive, the autofocus quit. After the dive, I took it out of the housing and I checked all of the possible switches, AF/M switch, servo switch. Everything was fine. I turned it on, no problems. AF perfectly. I haven't had a problem since. I thought I was the only one and it was operator error.

     

    Looking back, I was messing around with sun flares before it broke. Of course there were good sun flares and sun beams but not as many macro subjects when the 60 mm is loaded! I wonder if the D200 has a problem with the direct sun from sun flares doing something with the AF. The manual doesn't recommend shooting directly the sun. Brac has great vis, so could that cause a problem? What condition where you shooting when yours quit?

×
×
  • Create New...