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Everything posted by deepbluemd

  1. I agree with the previous comment about the importance of fast autofocus. I have both a Sony A7r and an OMD EM-1 and have shot them both extensively on land. While I love the image quality of the full frame sensor, and have seriously considered a Nauticam housing for it, I decided to house my EM-1 primarily because of its much faster/accurate autofocus. While shooting underwater, whether its in current, surge, less than gin-clear water, or low lighting conditions, one does not need any help producing blurry out-of-focus images. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  2. I also picked up the EM-1 as soon as it came out and am eagerly awaiting the new Nauticam housing (hopefully before my xmas trip to Roatan). Anyway, having both the EM-5 and the EM-1 I can tell you this: they are extremely similar in terms of the menus on the cameras, and they are quite different in terms of the functional buttons/dials/lever configurations on the bodies. But in terms of your question, yes, the menus look and act nearly the same in every important way, and I would use the settings recommended herein as a starting place for UW. From an ergonomic layout, the EM-1 has moved the on/off switch up to the camera left on top, and added dual functionality to this for HDR/AF/Metering and shutter release controls. The EM-1 has also added two new controls to the front right (of the lens) which can be customized to whatever you want. Olympus has also added a 2-position lever to the camera back just to the right of the EVF which controls the AEL as a button, but the lever also toggles controls on top of the on/off switch or whatever you customize it to do. The Fn1 & 2 buttons and record buttons all exist but are physically spread out a little differently and improve your ability to make rapid adjustments. I just returned from a week in Peru where I shot 2000 photos with this camera. I feel that the EM-1 is a solid step up from the EM-5 in every way, but for me, ergonomic design and button layout is smart and intuititive. I can make changes rapidly without ever taking my eye from the gorgeous viewfinder.(Most of the shots in this collection were with the EM-1 and 40-150 lens- ) good lucky, happy shooting HMS
  3. Phil As always, your knowledge and willingness to contribute meaningful information about lenses etc to these discussions is greatly appreciated. This forum is a treasure trove to those seeking useful discussion (and opinion) about the equipment they are using or intend to purchase. I often find it interesting to note that many wetpixel participants are scattered around the globe, often without local UW photography stores or experts nearby. This makes a venue like WP one of the few places folks can turn to for in depth discussion on these issues Cheers Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  4. I am not for a second suggesting that the equipment is more important than the photographer. Ansel Adams said " you don't take a great photograph, you make it". And no where is the dependency on the photographer more true than underwater photography, especially if you step back and consider what we do. We immerse ourselves in a foreign medium where a simple mistake can be deadly. We have to learn to dive and become certified before ever pulling a shutter. We ensconce our camera gear in clunky housings to protect it from the elements, but making it cumbersome and unwieldy. And we shoot in a world where the spectrum of available light is so skewed that unless you know how to add it back, your pictures look like crap. And we try to shoot subjects that may dart around so fast you barely have time to fire off a shot. So the UW photographer must overcome many obstacles not faced by our land based counterparts. But all these reasons also reinforce the notion that we can take all the help we can get from high quality equipment....
  5. I don't understand this sentiment. If not lens specifications and image quality analysis, on what basis would you suggest photographers select their lenses? Are we to believe none of the careful and increasingly quantitative photography equipment reviews from respected sources? I believe the moderators on this site have requested that posted images include lens and basic EXIF data so that readers may view, compare, and make informed judgements of what they see. I read a quote the other day that said 'Great photographers are both technical expert AND artist'. I took this to mean that they must possess mastery of the technical aspects of their equipment combined with creative imagination and the ability to recognize inspirational images. This is what I believe but, as I said above, to each his own.
  6. Just to play devils advocate, or at least offer an alternative view, I think the 12-50 one-size-fits-all solution needs a little deeper consideration. In all honesty, I'm a little puzzled by the support it has received on this forum. It may be a great option for some, but may not be what others are looking for. At the very least, I think potential buyers should do their homework, and consider their own underwater photography background and interests. After reading all the reviews I could find about the 12-50, I wasn't even sure I wanted to buy it but it was offered with the camera body at a decent price and I thought it would be nice to have topside and I was curious about it for UWP. Here was my hesitation: the professional photographers and review sites that have carefully addressed the lens properties have been largely unimpressed with the 12-50 (see reviews by Thom Hogan, Ming Thein, Lenstip, pekkapotka, etc). The lens has been described as having "average image quality, awful distortion, and lacking in microcontrast". Its been called the "jack of all trades master of none", and described as a "swiss army knife- handy, but ultimately does not distinguish itself at any one task". Potka and Hogan have both said that the lens is better suited to video than still photography. While there have been other reviews of the "oh its not that bad" variety (Steve Huffington etc), its still not a lens that has garnered lavish praise from the professional MFT community, say the way the Olympus 60mm Macro has. My own impressions, from my own shots and the ones I've seen posted, are that the the prime lenses (8mm, 60mm, 45mm) offer better image quality. So while the 12-50 probably offers the greatest zoom flexibility, and the Nauticam port probably enables the lens the best, it still won't be my first choice if I'm aiming for top image quality from the EM5 system. Buyers should also recognize that the Nauticam port is one of the most expensive non-dome ports available and is also the only port/gear I know of that requires a detailed set of instructions on the mechanism assembly which involves the installation of 12 tiny screws to complete. This may prove cumbersome if you decide to end diving for the day and shoot the 12-50 topside and removal and replacement of the mechanism becomes a non-trivial decision. Also, shooting at 12 mm wide in a flat port won't be ideal if your goal is true WA images, and 50 mm macro (even with 2x crop factor) doesn't really feel macro enough compared to what I've been used to shooting (nikon 105 +/ - a 10+diopter) . Having performed my own careful comparisons in the swimming pool (shooting a silly orange & green toy), as well as topside comparisons, I'm not totally disatisfied with the 12-50 performance on the EM5. In fact, given the reviews, it was better than I was expecting. But after pixel peeping in Lightroom and examining image quality comparison to my other two lenses, I still would rate the image quality higher from the 8mm fisheye and the 60 macro lenses. An UW photographer's setup is a deeply personal choice, and should reflect one's diving interests, photography knowledge and skill, and at least for most people, financial considerations. (I've yet to read a post where somebody said, "money is no object, what should I buy?") For me when starting out in UWP, I shot digital compact cameras (G9&11) so I understand the appeal of zoom capability on a single dive. But as time has gone on, and I've taken on DSLR gear, I find myself diving more frequently in locations that favor a single type of UW photography. For example, I spent a month in Indonesia last year, 3 weeks of which was in Lembeh. Consequently, my 60 and 105mm lenses were the only lenses on my d7000 while muck diving. Once I tried shooting WA but the visibility made this a pointless exercise. Conversely, if you are going to Socorro or some other pelagic destination, you may never take off your 10-17, 8mm fisheye, or whatever WA option you have available. Therefore, if you are the kind of diver that typically dives places with a predominant underwater focus, getting optimal image quality from deadicated primes, as opposed to flexibility, may be the best route. So when I considered getting an EM5, my own goal was not to seek a single lens/port solution to all my diving photography needs, but rather to purse the best image quality I could find. I went with 8mm Pan as a surrogate for my tokina 10-17, and the oly 60 mm macro in lieu of my nikon macro glass. But I also have the 12-50 for the same reasons articulated by its supporters, so please note that this is NOT an anti-12-50 post....this lens offers something unique, I get it. Those that argue that the zoom capabilities of a 12-50 allow you to shoot every subject in a single dive are right..... you can, or at least you can shoot a wider range of subjects than with primes. And thats a good thing. But for me, I enjoy the idea of checking out a diving location, looking at water visibility, the amount of sunlight, the color of the water, and learning about the potential macrolife, and then making a decision of whether to shoot macro, WA, or something in between. This way, when I dive, I'm in the mindset of looking for creative image opportunities for the equipment I'm carrying, and I'll happily watch a beautiful spotted eagle ray cruise by and then resume hunting for tiny critters with a macro lens on my camera. I don't feel shattered that I missed a picture of the ray. For me, I've become more interested in creating interesting images than in documenting what I see underwater. And I know somebody will write back and say they can do that better with a zoom lens, fine, to each his own. As I said at the outset, this is an alternative view to that being repeatedly recommended in previous posts. So the best advice is to do your research, read the reviews and opinions of those in the know, and assess your own diving and UW photography needs, and get the lens and port options you feel best align with your interests. You can improve your diving skills, learn to do better creative lighting and composition, and learn to adjust the feature set of the camera, all to improve the quality of the images-- but the image quality of an individual lens is a fixed property of that lens. just my 2 cents. (Leaving for a liveaboard on the GBR tomorrow....can't wait!)
  7. Tough Decision! I have both systems, except both are in Nauticam housings: OMD Em5 with Pan 8mm fisheye, Oly 60 macro and Oly 12-50 zoom and the d7000 with 105 macro, 60 macro, Tokina 10-17, shooting with z240s and S-2000s. Ok, I know what you are thinking....so NO I'm not a spoiled gear ho, my wife shoots one of the systems when we go on dive trips --she's rarely underwater without a camera in her hand. Also, I've owned Ikelite systems as well, so I know there is a $ appeal of going that route too. Anyway, I am honestly am not sure what system I would choose if I had to pick one, they both have their pros and cons. The OMD EM5 just won the dpreview camera of 2012, and I think that honor is well deserved. Certainly the OMD setup is more compact, easier to travel with, and I have to say I'm really impressed with the easy ergonomics of diving with it, especially holding the housing directly with the right hand instead of a handle. Also the EM5 has the most amazingly customizable menu, and I love the large OLED monitor while shooting underwater. You can hold the system out at arms length sometimes to get a shot and still see how you are framing a subject, live! Very cool. I'm leaving mid-January for 2 weeks in Australia but will only be on the GBR for 4 days. We've decided to only take one system and its going to be the EM5, partly cuz its new for me and I want to learn what it can do, and partly because of the reasons I've stated above. But if I were going to be diving the whole 2 weeks, I think I'd deal with the heavier and bulkier system and take the d7000, mostly because I might give a slight image quality nod to that system. Its a proven, high quality system, and has great glass options both above and below water. Plus I love shooting supermacro and the 105 plus a Macromate lets me shoot the really tiny stuff. The optical viewfinder lets you see incredible detail before pulling the shutter. But I can tell you, the thought has actually crossed my mind to sell the whole d7000 system to downsize the kit to make it easier to fly, travel and dive with cuz lugging two camera setups is a pain. My initial experience with the EM5 has been that positive. But one other thing that is also holding me up, is that I am very impressed with the Nauticam NA-D7000 housing. Its fantastic. There is a big difference in the build quality and feel between the EM5 and D7000 Nauticam housings with a big edge to the latter. Anyway, there's plenty of threads discussing features of both setups but I think you can get amazing shots and have fun with either system. cheers, Hugh Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD000
  8. Coroander, Do you know if there is a difference in how the EM5 captures video when activated in Manual mode vs Video Mode (other than the buttons used to start recording)? I was planning on diving today in the pool to experiment with various modes.... I have Myset 1 configured mostly as described above for Macro with 60 mm Myset 2 for WA for 8 mm Pan, with a few tweaks with metering and focus points, I could toggle between Mysets 1& 2 for shooting with 12-50 with zoom gear, or use another Myset, but I kind of like to use Myset 4 for favorite topside preferences. So I have been configuring Myset 3 for Video and as you pointed out, the Shooting Menu 1 won't let you save a "Myset" profile when the mode dial is set to Video, but you can save video settings when on M. So if you can use the REC button to shoot video while still in Manual mode, is there a qualitative difference between how the camera captures video in M vs Video? Of course I realize that by changing to Video mode, I could then select various Myset preferences for Macro Video, Wide Angle Video etc, but given that I don't own two big video lights, nor would I really want them on my intentionally compact rig, I'm wondering if its simpler to use the Mysets as described above and not have to adjust the mode dial at all. The advantage of this is that if you suddenly decided you wanted a still shot of something, you could simply stop recording and then press the shutter for exposure, and not have to worry about taking your eye from the viewfinder to adjust the mode dial..... So I was just curious if there is a difference in how the camera captures video in M vs Video mode..... thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  9. I wanted to echo Coroander's suggestion to try Lightroom 4. I've been a long time Aperture user, and have been pleased with the ease of workflow and organization, and until now, happy with the image quality. I was intrigued when Coroander stated that LR4 is really yields a tangible difference in image quality. I decided to download the free trial, and what can I say, I'm hooked. While the LR4 workflow requires a greater upfront time investment to understand, the dividends are huge. I'm impressed with this program on so many levels, and as I get increasingly comfortable with the workflow, (developing, rating, and placing images in collections) the array of preset adjustments and image tools is convincing me that Aperture will no longer suffice. Even simple one click presets seem to do a better job of improving image quality, and the results are often right on the money, without need for excessive tweaking, trial and error. After deciding to try it, I asked a fellow photographer about LR4 learning aids and he recommended Scott Kelby's Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4 for Digital Photographers. I've read most of it now and he offers great advice for setting up a workflow process, which is very important if you are coming from an application like Aperture, and a million tips and examples on how to get the most out of your images. In every chapter, kelby gives shortcut commands and how they can simplify and speedup the work of importing, editing and storing images. I know this app will keep me learning for some time to come, but I'll happily put in the effort to keep improving. Here's one non UW example, as I've only loaded about 50 topside pictures into it so far and haven't been underwater since I got the program. This was a complete crap, poor color, image that I decided to experiment on while learning LR4. One click with a B&W preset and this image was the result. I'm at work so I pulled this image from an email I sent to my wife otherwise I'd post the original along with it. Still not going to win any awards, but if you'd seen the original you'd be smiling like me. Anyway, like the commercial for life cereal used to say...try it, you'll like it.
  10. “Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?” (Robert Browning)
  11. Nicool, I agree with you. I have a Nauticam Viewfinder ($1K) for a D7000 rig but I don't plan to use it on the OMD/Nauticam system. There may be occasional instances where bright light or glare may make bringing an eye close to the VF a necessity, for the vast majority of the time, having a compact system with Live View on the tilted LCD makes the most sense. If you want to see real focus, the magnify/teleconverter modes will help with this. The whole point of this system, at least IMHO, is that its a smaller lighter system. If I want to start adding a bunch of accessories, I may as use well the bigger bulkier D7000. With regard to the post above, about increasing the autofocus speed, the setting to accomplish this is with the frame rate for the EVF, but its unclear to me whether this adjustment will increase focus speed irrespective of EVF vs OLED monitor, or if it only applies to the EVF mode.
  12. Alex, did your zoom ring from unterwasserkamera for the 12-50 in the Macro 65 port arrive before your trip to the Caymans? I'm interested to know if it will work, physically, that is. The 12-50 lens is just a tad wider (diameter) than the 60 macro, and with the zoom ring on, i'm hopeful that it will fit inside the port with enough clearance to function correctly. I'm also curious to know how it secures to the lens itself to allow both electronic and manual zoom, given that the ring position on the lens physically changes to configure each focus mode. I haven't even received word that mine has shipped. I'm betting you took the last one! Also, do you think the warming filters will provide a different result than the various "warming settings" available from the camera menu (ie. Custom Menu G- warming mode, Shooting menu 1-picture mode, or Custom Menu-WB A&G)? I guess its filtering the actual light instead of filtering the light captured on the sensor, but I wonder how different the final images will be and if the setting adjustments would actually allow greater adjustability. One last question-are you shooting your EM5 with Myset 1, 2 etc configured for Macro, WA, and so on. Seems like being able to set these Myset custom settings to a single button is useful, especially if switching quickly underwater to opposite ends of the focal length for a zoom lens (12-50)
  13. On the dpreview guide to the EM-5, the photogs say that their testing shows that faster autofocusing by the camera can be achieved by changing the frame rate of the viewfinder. This can be found under the Custom section J. See the guide via the link below for a detailed illustration of how to do this but you basically just change the frame rate from Normal to High. Coroander notes in the UW Settings post that this may diminish the ability of the display to show shadow/highlight info but when shooting moving subjects (eg. little speedy fish) I'm in favor of achieving focus as fast as possible. I haven't done any formal testing but just walking around shooting household stuff with the Oly 60mm macro lens, it does seem to focus quicker. http://www.dpreview....s-e-m5/2/#Func3 And I'm with GHP on the limiter switch, unless you are specifically planning on shooting nudis or something small and predictable, I'd prefer not to engage the macro limiter. It seems very frustrating to wait for the lens hunt all the way in and out, only to fail to focus because the subject is outside the range limits.
  14. I just happened to grab one of the strobe ball mount adapters that I had for a lanyard attachment for a NA-D7000 system...so it has a hole through it where I can slip an allen key to crank it tight, but it has the sleeve/collar on it that you can adjust so it tightens up before bottoming out. I suspect though that the housing was designed to accept a pretty rigorous torque to tighten it without damage.
  15. Like Alex, I'm thinking about ordering a D&D 12-50 Oly zoom gear for the Nauti housing as well. My rationale is that while I'm predominantly a dedicated WA (Pan 8mm) or Macro shooter (oly 60mm), there may be times I'll be interested in trying the 12-50, and yet I'm not really intrigued enough to drop $800 on the complex Nauti port. I've watched the video that accompanies the assembly, and all the screws and complexity of it made me even less inclined to go that route. On the other hand, a digi dive 12-50 zoom gear, that would fit inside my 60 mm macro port, and let me shoot the 12-50, seems both economical while at the same time offering flexibility. Given that the 12-50 is fun to shoot topside, there wouldn't be as much hassle getting it in and out of a zoom port, and I actually like how fast it autofocuses. Plus I've seen some nice shots taken with it, and it could be fun to take down when you have absolutely no idea what you're gonna see. For others similarly interested, the price is 79 Euros at unterwasser kamera (no sales tax for shipping stateside), but 30 Euros for shipping. With current conversion rates, thats about 142 bucks. Not bad for being able to house that lens.....provided that it works.
  16. Thanks to those for sharing their ergonomic setups. I think the configuration being described above is illustrated in a few of the attached photos, minus the hand strap which simply attaches to the right hand side of the housing. An M10 Strobe mount (aka 10 mm or 1 cm diameter threaded ball mount adapter) fits into a threaded, reinforced slot at the top right side of the NA-EM5 housing near the Fn2 button and top control dial. I took a few photos of the stripped down system without a port or fiberoptic cables, just to show the Flexitray with single Left handle, and the M10 ball mount adapter, each with a single strobe arm. As mentioned previously, this allows you to have a better hand grip on the right side of the housing for shutter and button control, but allows right and left strobes to have separate attachments, and the cold shoe slot is free for a ball mount adapter for focus/video light. Here ya go:
  17. Thank you, that's helpful and seems like it makes the most sense to me as well.
  18. Hi All, I'm curious what others are finding with their OMD-EM5/Nauticam setups in terms of tray-to-housing ergonomics. As you can see in the photo a few posts above (GuyHarrisonPhoto rig), that the flexitray is a little long for the housing. I have the same setup and even though I have quite large hands it is still a stretch to reach the shutter release. I played around with trying to bolt the flexitray pieces together in a different configuration but wasn't happy with any of the results. I know Alex M has shot with the Nauti Hand Strap and attached strobes to the center cold shoe slot...an economical configuration to be sure, but a little awkward to make strobe arm position adjustments. What are others doing, and have you found a similar lack of ergonomic comfort with this housing & tray, say compared to other Nauti housings and handles where the shutter release is more of a trigger pull? I'm wondering about just using the tray with the Left handle attached, and combining this with the hand strap on the Right. The housing has the thumb groove and place for fingers to wrap around the front, which seems to invite bare hand control on the right side for good positioning to work the shutter release. I'd probably put one strobe arm on the left handle and the other on the cold shoe center post. Thoughts? thanks Hugh
  19. All, While recently completing research on compact underwater photography systems, I compiled a list of internet links to sites I had visited so that I could quickly find relevant information again. Having reading about various camera features and housings, and after receiving sage advice from other experts, I decided to go with the Olympus OMD-EM5 and NA-EM5 equipment as a second, smaller UW system. In the event that other underwater photographers are completing similar internet searches, I've collated most of my links and pasted them below. I have no commercial affiliations and simply provide links as they are available to anyone perusing the world wide web. Hopefully this list will save considerable time and effort for others completing their own investigations. The list is by no means exhaustive, and if anyone wishes to add their own favorite references, this will broaden and enhance the resource list. I intentionally did not provide all of the available threads from Wetpixel, Scubaboard and other UW photography sites as these are easily searchable on these sites and forums. The following list of resources contains links to product software, manual downloads, camera reviews, housings, lenses, ports, underwater settings, and trays. OMD E-M5 RESOURCES OLYMPUS SUPPORT OMD E-M5 PDF Manual download (may have to paste link in address bar depending on your browser) · http://www.olympus.c...d/man_em5_e.pdf Summary of Firmware Version Updates and link to downloads · http://www.olympus.c...rm/omd/em5.html Olympus software/firmware downloads for Mac and windows · http://www.olympusam...ads.asp?id=1583 REVIEWS Camera Reviews · http://www.dpreview....iews/olympusem5 · http://www.stevehuff...-by-steve-huff/ · http://www.imaging-r...m5/omd-em5A.HTM · http://www.thephoblo...lympus-omd-em5/ · http://blog.mingthei...2012/06/02/omd/ UNDERWATER HOUSINGS Nauticam NA-EM5 Nauticam NA-EM5 Housing Manual PDF Download · http://nauticam.com/...oduct/p_159.pdf Nauticam Product Info, Ports, photos · http://www.nauticamu...ympus-om-d-em-5 Nauticam Housing -UWPG · http://www.uwphotogr...erwater-housing Wetpixel thread on NA-EM5 · http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=47237 Deepshots.co.uk review · http://www.deepshots...na-em5-housing/ Olympus PT-EP08 · http://wetpixel.com/...mpus-om-d-e-m5/ · Official olympus product link http://www.olympus.c...ep08/index.html TOPSIDE AND UNDERWATER SETTING REFERENCES Dpreview Collection of Optimized User Settings · http://www.dpreview....he-olympus-e-m5 Table of EM5 Assignable Fn Chart · http://omdem5.wordpr...n-button-chart/ The Micro 4/3rds forum thread on the OMD E-M5 · http://www.mu-43.com...e-thread-22157/ Underwater Settings for OMD E-M5, by Coroander and Mustard · http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=48625 LENSES Olympus 60 mm macro · http://www.dpreview....2-body-cap-lens · http://www.uwphotogr...cro-lens-review · http://footlessfish....ng-called-macro Topside comparisons of Panasonic 45/2.8 macro (PL45), the Carl Zeiss ZF.2 2/50 Makro-Planar, the Nikon AFS 60/2.8 G Micro, and Olympus M.Zuiko Digital 60/2.8 Macro (WINNER) · http://blog.mingthei...macro-shootout/ Panasonic 8 mm fisheye for MFT · http://www.uwphotogr...-fisheye-review · http://www.stevehuff...-by-steve-huff/ Olympus 12-50 EZ (works at either full Macro or WA without zoom port, otherwise requires Nauticam 36161 MacroPort with M77 thread for Olympus 12-50) · http://www.scubaboar...ter-images.html PORT AND GEAR LINKS · http://www.nauticam....list-b.asp?id=6 · http://reefphoto.com...Path=80_148_149 · http://opticaloceans.../flat-ports-en/ · http://www.bluewater...taxonomy:10.313 Trays · http://opticaloceans...xitray-set.html
  20. Alex, this does not sound a memor issue or even like an Olympus version issue, but rather a windows driver problem. If the camera is plugged in, but the computer does not recognize the device, either there is no driver to establish a connection or the device is assigned to a port that is in conflict or unavailable. I would try redownloading and installing the driver, and any updates or patches from the Olympus website, and then try reconnecting. Here's the link. http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_support_downloads.asp?id=1583 Alternatively, I imagine there is a "hard reset" procedure for this camera which may (or may not) default to the original firmware version. good luck. Hugh
  21. Excellent advice all round. As my second rig, and one the Mrs may be shooting (if she can pry it out of my fingers), I was thinking about a minimalist approach for weight and bulk as well. Discovered flying in and around the indopacific that airlines often weigh and charge you for carry on gear..so I think I'll order a hand strap for the mini version, but keep the flexitray for full performance mode. cheers Hugh
  22. Alex, I am just curious about your decision regarding the center ball mount for your strobes and lack of traditional tray and handles on your new OM-D rig. I just ordered the E-M5 camera, Nauti housing, lenses and ports myself but I went with the Flexitray as well. I guess coming from a D7000 and Nauti system it seemed most natural for me to have handles and ball mounts for my s-2000s or z240s. So I'm wondering if you really found the E-M5 small enough to dive and operate like a point and shoot with hand strap? Does the top mounting point seem sturdy enough to support the weight and forces of dual strobes, both above and below water? Do the short strobe arms allow the freedom and flexibility to get the lighting you want? Certainly the way you have things configured, it appears to be the most compact way to enjoy dual strobes for the camera. Anyway, I was just wondering, given your experience diving with the system already, if you could expand on your rationale and ergonomic design. Other opinions are certainly invited as well. If others concur that a tray is unnecessary, or even undesired, it might help me save a couple hundred bucks by returning the flexitray. thanks Hugh (also, thanks to Phil Rudin and his sage advice steering me in the direction of the oly/nauti system. My gear is still in shipping but having read all the enthusiastic posts here, and seeing some superb images, I'm jazzed about this decision)
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