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About aczyzyk

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 05/09/1973

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Warszawa, Poland

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125
  1. Problem solved! It was the batteries. I had two sets of enloops. I keep them separate, but somehow I switched two batteries between sets. They came from different production batches (different shade of plastic around the top connector), so I could spot the mistake. Once I sorted the sets correctly the problem is gone. Thank you everybody for your hints.
  2. My INON D2000 worked flowlessly with the same camera. I only have the problem with s2000.
  3. Cable: It is not the cable. I get exactly the same behavior when I test it out of housing and without cable - just direct line of sight between camera flash and light sensor on the strobe. Overheating: I dont think it is a problem because sometimes it works incorrectly from the very first shot and then several shots later it starts to work correctly. Batteries: Ill try with a new set of batteries, but the strobe seems to recharge just fine.
  4. Switched to fill-in and started to get my hopes high as I got a long sequence of good exposures. Unfortunately things went sour again. It must be something else... re magnet - I didn’t install it.
  5. Thanks. After some more testing I am sure it is not the cable. Now I noticed that in addition to correctly lit shots and the ones without visible strobe light I occasionally get a blown out shot. Also, this happens in series: I get several good shots, then something breaks and a series of bad ones continues fir several shots, than it fixes itself for another series of good ones and so on. I’ll try to disable the rear sync. I used to use D2000 with this camera before. It worked just fine with rear sync, but maybe s2000 is not as smart as the bigger brother.
  6. I get inconsistent performance from my new s2000. Did just 2 dives with it and it started to act funny on the second one. I tried the following back in my hotel room: Olympus e-m5 M mode 1/250 f 5.6 TTL rear sync. Strobe connected with (homemade) fibre optic cable. Strobe switches set to: sTTL, B The strobe fires every time but I either get a perfect flash exposure or no flash visible in the photos (as if it fired out of sync). I dont have the manual with me and cannot find one online... Is it broken or am I missing something?
  7. Thank you for that info. @Alex - re: design change Does it mean that I should have no worries if I order brand new equipment from Nauticam? Is there a way to tell if a handle is prior or after design change?
  8. I'm trying to decide which tray, handles and arms to get for Nauticam E-M5 housing. I like Nauticam tray and handles, but someone at camera store showed me a broken Nauticam handle and advised against it claiming that there were more cases like that. I have no information in what circumstances it got broken. Anyway, I wanted to ask if you had any problems with these handles or is it just an isolated incident.
  9. I checked and D200 fires inside MDX-200 housing. One just needs to remove a little plate (routing wires for regular sync cord). Then there is just enough space to make it work. Are such bulkheads housing specific or is it some standard? i.e. can I use Hugyfot for S&S housing?
  10. Thank you for the link. Interesting but it creates extra complexity (also not sure if I can squeeze it into the housing). I guess I would explore this solution only if I experience problems with built-in strobe (overheating/battery drain).
  11. Changing bulkhead seems much more elegant/dependable. Where could I get replacement bulkhead for s&s?
  12. I started thinking about modifying my S&S MDX-D200 housing to be able to use optic cables synced strobes. There is enough space in the housing to semi lift the strobe head so it can fire inside. I thought I could fix fibre cable next to strobe head and the other end at the edge of top display window. I could then fix sync cable on the other side of that window. Obviously it would block part of the window, but I guess I could live with that. Any reason why it would not work?
  13. I have little experience with processing video. I played with NEX-5 and D7000 files recently and I'm disappointed with what I managed to get from NEX-5 footage. My workflow was: 1) shot with AVCHD 1080 setting, 2) imported to iMovie 11 with analyze for stabilization option on, 3) exported using Share -> Export Movie -> 1080p Resulting video has ugly compression artifacts, sometimes shaky and sometimes wobbles. Looks much worse than unedited clips played with vlc. Is something wrong with what I did or I expected too much?
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