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aczyzyk

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aczyzyk last won the day on August 21

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About aczyzyk

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 05/09/1973

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    czyzyk
  • Website URL
    http://www.aczyzyk.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warszawa, Poland

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125
  1. Found the problem: the glue I used to fix the fibre in the screw-on cap is transparent. The light is leaking via the glue. Thanks for your hints!
  2. Yes, a screw on attachment. The other end goes into Nauticam (not transparent) housing. Other ports are coveted with black rubber plugs. It is not likely to happen on either end, yet it happens. I guess I need to test the strobe alone without the camera just the fibre cable with loose end taped.
  3. My INON S-2000 gets triggred by sunlight when very close to the surface or above the surface. The sensor at the bottom is covered by the cap that secures the fibre cable. Is there another light sensor that I could cover to prevent it? Or is the light leaking to the bottom sensor somehow despite it being covered by the cap?
  4. Problem solved! It was the batteries. I had two sets of enloops. I keep them separate, but somehow I switched two batteries between sets. They came from different production batches (different shade of plastic around the top connector), so I could spot the mistake. Once I sorted the sets correctly the problem is gone. Thank you everybody for your hints.
  5. My INON D2000 worked flowlessly with the same camera. I only have the problem with s2000.
  6. Cable: It is not the cable. I get exactly the same behavior when I test it out of housing and without cable - just direct line of sight between camera flash and light sensor on the strobe. Overheating: I dont think it is a problem because sometimes it works incorrectly from the very first shot and then several shots later it starts to work correctly. Batteries: Ill try with a new set of batteries, but the strobe seems to recharge just fine.
  7. Switched to fill-in and started to get my hopes high as I got a long sequence of good exposures. Unfortunately things went sour again. It must be something else... re magnet - I didn’t install it.
  8. Thanks. After some more testing I am sure it is not the cable. Now I noticed that in addition to correctly lit shots and the ones without visible strobe light I occasionally get a blown out shot. Also, this happens in series: I get several good shots, then something breaks and a series of bad ones continues fir several shots, than it fixes itself for another series of good ones and so on. I’ll try to disable the rear sync. I used to use D2000 with this camera before. It worked just fine with rear sync, but maybe s2000 is not as smart as the bigger brother.
  9. I get inconsistent performance from my new s2000. Did just 2 dives with it and it started to act funny on the second one. I tried the following back in my hotel room: Olympus e-m5 M mode 1/250 f 5.6 TTL rear sync. Strobe connected with (homemade) fibre optic cable. Strobe switches set to: sTTL, B The strobe fires every time but I either get a perfect flash exposure or no flash visible in the photos (as if it fired out of sync). I dont have the manual with me and cannot find one online... Is it broken or am I missing something?
  10. Thank you for that info. @Alex - re: design change Does it mean that I should have no worries if I order brand new equipment from Nauticam? Is there a way to tell if a handle is prior or after design change?
  11. I'm trying to decide which tray, handles and arms to get for Nauticam E-M5 housing. I like Nauticam tray and handles, but someone at camera store showed me a broken Nauticam handle and advised against it claiming that there were more cases like that. I have no information in what circumstances it got broken. Anyway, I wanted to ask if you had any problems with these handles or is it just an isolated incident.
  12. I checked and D200 fires inside MDX-200 housing. One just needs to remove a little plate (routing wires for regular sync cord). Then there is just enough space to make it work. Are such bulkheads housing specific or is it some standard? i.e. can I use Hugyfot for S&S housing?
  13. Thank you for the link. Interesting but it creates extra complexity (also not sure if I can squeeze it into the housing). I guess I would explore this solution only if I experience problems with built-in strobe (overheating/battery drain).
  14. Changing bulkhead seems much more elegant/dependable. Where could I get replacement bulkhead for s&s?
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