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Everything posted by aczyzyk

  1. Problem solved! It was the batteries. I had two sets of enloops. I keep them separate, but somehow I switched two batteries between sets. They came from different production batches (different shade of plastic around the top connector), so I could spot the mistake. Once I sorted the sets correctly the problem is gone. Thank you everybody for your hints.
  2. My INON D2000 worked flowlessly with the same camera. I only have the problem with s2000.
  3. Cable: It is not the cable. I get exactly the same behavior when I test it out of housing and without cable - just direct line of sight between camera flash and light sensor on the strobe. Overheating: I dont think it is a problem because sometimes it works incorrectly from the very first shot and then several shots later it starts to work correctly. Batteries: Ill try with a new set of batteries, but the strobe seems to recharge just fine.
  4. Switched to fill-in and started to get my hopes high as I got a long sequence of good exposures. Unfortunately things went sour again. It must be something else... re magnet - I didn’t install it.
  5. Thanks. After some more testing I am sure it is not the cable. Now I noticed that in addition to correctly lit shots and the ones without visible strobe light I occasionally get a blown out shot. Also, this happens in series: I get several good shots, then something breaks and a series of bad ones continues fir several shots, than it fixes itself for another series of good ones and so on. I’ll try to disable the rear sync. I used to use D2000 with this camera before. It worked just fine with rear sync, but maybe s2000 is not as smart as the bigger brother.
  6. I get inconsistent performance from my new s2000. Did just 2 dives with it and it started to act funny on the second one. I tried the following back in my hotel room: Olympus e-m5 M mode 1/250 f 5.6 TTL rear sync. Strobe connected with (homemade) fibre optic cable. Strobe switches set to: sTTL, B The strobe fires every time but I either get a perfect flash exposure or no flash visible in the photos (as if it fired out of sync). I dont have the manual with me and cannot find one online... Is it broken or am I missing something?
  7. Thank you for that info. @Alex - re: design change Does it mean that I should have no worries if I order brand new equipment from Nauticam? Is there a way to tell if a handle is prior or after design change?
  8. I'm trying to decide which tray, handles and arms to get for Nauticam E-M5 housing. I like Nauticam tray and handles, but someone at camera store showed me a broken Nauticam handle and advised against it claiming that there were more cases like that. I have no information in what circumstances it got broken. Anyway, I wanted to ask if you had any problems with these handles or is it just an isolated incident.
  9. I checked and D200 fires inside MDX-200 housing. One just needs to remove a little plate (routing wires for regular sync cord). Then there is just enough space to make it work. Are such bulkheads housing specific or is it some standard? i.e. can I use Hugyfot for S&S housing?
  10. Thank you for the link. Interesting but it creates extra complexity (also not sure if I can squeeze it into the housing). I guess I would explore this solution only if I experience problems with built-in strobe (overheating/battery drain).
  11. Changing bulkhead seems much more elegant/dependable. Where could I get replacement bulkhead for s&s?
  12. I started thinking about modifying my S&S MDX-D200 housing to be able to use optic cables synced strobes. There is enough space in the housing to semi lift the strobe head so it can fire inside. I thought I could fix fibre cable next to strobe head and the other end at the edge of top display window. I could then fix sync cable on the other side of that window. Obviously it would block part of the window, but I guess I could live with that. Any reason why it would not work?
  13. I have little experience with processing video. I played with NEX-5 and D7000 files recently and I'm disappointed with what I managed to get from NEX-5 footage. My workflow was: 1) shot with AVCHD 1080 setting, 2) imported to iMovie 11 with analyze for stabilization option on, 3) exported using Share -> Export Movie -> 1080p Resulting video has ugly compression artifacts, sometimes shaky and sometimes wobbles. Looks much worse than unedited clips played with vlc. Is something wrong with what I did or I expected too much?
  14. That is primary reason I'm looking at NEX. I think about replacing my D200 with it. I now travel mostly with my kids and dSLR with housing is quite troublesome. Being accustomed to 10.5mm with Sea&Sea NX Fisheye Dome I'm still worried that I might be disappointed with quality of NEX lenses. I'm worried about that bit... I know it is a bit subjective, but do you think one would miss a lot compared to nikkor 10.5? Are there any nex fisheye UW full size samples on the net?
  15. Thank you for an interesting review Phil. Could you comment some more on optical quality of that fisheye converter and dome combination? How does it compare to fisheyes like 10.5mm, tokina 10-17, sigma 15mm? Andrzej
  16. Can I fit Nikkor 10.5 behind S&S Compact Dome NX without extension rings? Does it work fine optically?
  17. No, it a serious question. I was not following developments in 4/3 and NEX very closely so far. Based on what I read recently it seems they came quite close to D200. But that is just theory and land reviews so I'm asking for real users opinions.
  18. I tried it with +4 diopter behind ikelite 6" dome once. Optically it worked fine, but it did not seem that useful. See some sample photos: 50 1.8 samples
  19. Thank you for your comments. Why? Lenses like panasonic/leica 45 2.8 macro and 8mm 3.5 fisheye seem to be ok. Am I missing something? Reviews claim that GF1 is on par with low end DSLRs. If it was like e.g. D70 I guess I could live with that. I wish I could try some setups in water myself to form my own opinion. Specs and land reviews are not enough...
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