Jump to content

Jim Clark

Member
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Jim Clark

  • Rank
    Damselfish

Profile Information

  • Location
    London, UK
  1. I'm going to try and find some router cable and see if it'll work, good idea jim
  2. ok, so i tried the camera at the weekend. unfortunately, the silt was not on my side (vis was down to 1m), but here's an example of the shots i was getting, it's nice to have the side-light effect without having to use the internal strobe. I'm going to have a second polycarbonate flash diffuser made with a hole in it (like the one on the link you sent) and us that next time and see how it goes..!
  3. Hi, the glass fibre is just the stuff we use to make cold light sources for lararoscopic surgery (I work in a Hospital) it's, I think, just a bundle of 20µM glass fibre, I can probably find more details. it's attached to the internal stobe behind the neoprene patch with a cable tie at the moment,.... once I know it works well in the open water I'll make a better attachment!
  4. I'ts effective enough for what i want, as I take all my shots in UK waters the furthest away from the subject I get is about 2m and it's ok for that. I guess I'm going to have to get something better when I start with wide angle shots.. but for the time being this one is fine!
  5. I've made this adaptation to my PT-010 housing. This is to try and reduce the backscatter caused by the cameras own flash going off each time just to trigger the external strobe. Using some glass fibre (commercially available) in a silicone rubber tube attached to the sensor on the strobe via a clip and held against the housing flash diffuser by means of a neaprene patch I have managed to get the external strobe to sync properly without the interference of the camera's own flash. Comments most welcome. I'll be taking it in the open water at the weekend... pictures to follow (It works fine in the pool btw). the UK 2AAA light is used as a focussing light for night dives, and dark dives (bear in mind I'm a UK diver :-) the bendy arm(s) came from a local DIY store for £10!!! jim http://www.musical.clara.net/PT-010-housin...jpg' alt='PT-010-housin...jpg'>
  6. Bob, I think you've misunderstood my post, I'm not having ANY problems with my focussing! it's all fine for me. it was the other guy who started this thread I was replying to! The minimum focal length for the Olympus camera underwater is about 30 cm, so anything closer will not be in focus, but I've got a macro lense for that kind of thing.. Jim
  7. Han anyone tried this HID light with underwater digital camera, I'm thinking about getting one, since the light is as close to sunlight as you're going to get underwater and the beam is supposed to be quite large.. any advice would be appreciated.
  8. I set mine to HQ mode and get 100 pictures on a 128MB card... that's more than enough for a few dives!
  9. Sorry, I think you misunderstood, when I meant a ring I didn;t mean a black ring I meant an blurred ring, of course the camera is fully zoomed in... I understand from most places I have talked to that this is a known probem
  10. To start with you may find that you're getting too close to the subject. I use an Onlympus 3040 with housing and find that if I get closer than 2 ft from the subject without switchin to macro mode everything's out of focus too... this could be a problem for you too. lighting may be affecting the autofocus of the camera, are you using a torch/light as well as the strobe to immuminate the subject. I have a small 2 x AAA battery lamp (made by Underwater Kinetics) which is on a bendy arm on the housing so I can illuminate darm objects to give the camera something to focus on! As for the moving objects causing a few problems, that's always going to be a problem until you get used to following fish etc with the camera even after hitting the shutter to allow for the lag good luck with th photos!
  11. everyone else has said it already, but the most important thing to get right it buoyancy control. I wouldn't even think about taking a camer underwater on a reef without making sure you are pretty damn close to perfect with your control, i.e. hovering feet up, upsidedown etc without hitting stuff otherwise you can do serious damage to the reef and even risk damaging yourself just to get what you think could be the perfect shot!!!
  12. Yes, I've got the same housing PT-10 and I've taken a few shots with the Sea & Sea Lens and adapter ring in UK waters, this is what I got, there's a ring (~20%) round the outside of the picture which is a pain, the lens is going back and I'm picking up the new Olympus PCU-01 MACRO lens at the w/e, this is a whole lot better!
×
×
  • Create New...