scubamauro

The image can be viewed here: http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/tem...?img=ss-50117_1 The old model did not have any control to select strobe type. It only had a control to fine tune TTL exposure or selecting Manual mode.

I just bought the new n-type Sea&Sea TTL converter for using with a Nikon D200 in a Sea&Sea housing. I will use it connected to my two INON Z240 strobes (one of them Type 2, the other one, Type 4). The TTL converter is designed to be used with Sea&Sea strobes. It has four positions: Position A: for using with YS-110a and YS-120 strobes Position B: for using with YS-250PRO strobe Position C: for using with YS-60 / YS-90DX / YS-90AUTO / YS-90DUO strobes Position D: For using with YS-110 strobe Any idea about which one is the best position to be used with the INON Z240 strobes? Thanks in advance for your comments!

Hello all, I´m glad to introduce my web page www.mauroristorto.com So far it is in spanish, but hopefully the english version will be online early next year. I hope you like it! Any comments or suggestions will be highly appreciated. Best Mauro

Hi Ding... I've got reasonable results with the following seeting in the Supermacro mode (I use an Ikelite DS50 strobe): * ISO 50 * Manual mode: shutter 1/250 - Aperture F8.0 * Normally I set AF Mode to SPOT, but for low-contrast subjects I found that iESP provides a faster focusing. * Metering mode: I use to set it in ESP. Autofocus with low light conditions is painful with this camera. I improved autofocus response with a Fantasea 44 LED light (http://www.fantasea.com/product_details.asp?id=68). It works great, especially for night divings.

Take a look at this link: http://www.molon.de/8080/#BLM-1 I hope you find it useful. Best, Mauro

Hello everyone, I have just bought an Olympus 8080 digital camera, an Ikelite housing and an Ikelite DS-50 strobe. In order to use the strobe with TTL automatic exposure, Ikelite recommends setting the camera in manual mode with the following parameters: ISO 50 (the lowest available), 1/100 sec shutter speed and 5.6 aperture. With that setting, the LCD appears almost completely black due to poor light conditions existing underwater. The image only appears clear on the LCD for a second or less when striking the shutter button. Under these conditions I found very difficult to compose pictures. I already tried to increase LCD brightness, but it was not successful. Thanks in advance for your help!