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About petr

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    Czech Republic
  1. Hi Guys, here are few shots recently taken at Sipadan and around. Petr www.uws.cz
  2. OK, I found the absolution.... I had seted up the flash synch speed as 1/320 FP, which should sync even with faster shutter than 1/320 but they say with system strobe only. But it is working with the Ike strobes as well..... When I set up the flash sync. speed just to 1/250 the system works the standard way and doesn't allow me to use shutter speeds above 1/250.....
  3. Thanks for reply. Just check the behavior of the camera and the strobes.... I can realy set up the the shutter speed as I wannt no matter the strobes are connected.... I tried to user system flash SB-800 and it does the same.... Something wrong with the camera I guess. I tried to use differents set up, but it is the same...
  4. I have never used the AF-ON button on either the D70 or D300 underwater. I simply depress the shutter half way using the shutter release level. It is the way that I have always done it and I find it works well. Well, I don't like to focus this way. It works fine on land or with thin gloves, but is hard with thick dry gloves I use. I find I don't need to change much on a dive and so as yet have not had any problems. I haven't done any night dives yet, but when I dived at night with my D70, I wore a light on my mask so I could see the housing. I guess it is something you'll need to practice with. Well, time to time I need to change something during the dive. I can use the light I have in hand but then I can't use the hand to operate the housing. I never use light placed on mask (or head). When you look at somebody face with light like that, noone can see because is dazed.... It was much easier to set up D70 as the housing had minimum shared controls. That is odd. I'll have to try that with mine. Did the camera know the strobes were on? I think so. I could see the external strobe indicator on the LCD.... Will need to play with to see why.....
  5. Hi Guys, I could finaly have a try my new rig. I'm using D300 and Ike housing. I have few questions. On my previous Ikelite D70 housing I was using the AF-ON button on the back of the camera. I would like to use it the same way now, but what a surprise.... Ike had changed the AF control shaft to the standard button which can't be used together with release control shaft as you need to move your hand from the release shaft to be able to push the AF button on the back. There is still left a long shaft for the control of the AE-L button but it clashes with the other AF button if I try to use it.... Do you have any work around? Also I have to say after first dive that the Ike housing for the D300 is not ideal. D300 has many functions set up by buttons and on the Ike housing are these buttons controled by shared control shafts... This was pretty hard to use, mainly in the dark as I didn't have idea how the shaft was oriented. Another thing that happend to me was the sync. speed. I try to set up TTL and P mode with two DS-125. The TTL seemed to work fine but I could use sync. speed 1/1000.... I thought that the max sync. speed is 1/320. Any ideas? Thanks.
  6. Hi All, we have got back from our trip to Bali. We have stayed on Mermaid I liveaboard for a week and did Komodo round trip. The pictures can be seen on www.uws.cz/photo Have a fun. Petr
  7. Well, I wasn't sure, so I just have bought new connector set..... Thanks. Petr
  8. Jean, thanks for quick answer. That's what I thought. But the rear rubber has a signatures on from the previous compression so I wonder if it would seal again.... The rubber is untouched by the disassembly. Gerard has asked for the picture, so here it is.... Petr
  9. Hi Guys, happened on mine Ike dual sync cable that the internal wires get severed just behind the connector which goes to the housing. I don't want to buy new one, so I try to repair it.... It was easy to loosen the cover nut, but it was realy hard to remove the internal connector piece with the connection pins. When I was doing this I damaged the rubber which covers the two pins. The connector still fits to the oposit connector, but you can see a scratches on the rubber. Here is my question.... What does actualy seal of the connector from the water? Is just the rubber piece which is slided on the cable or they using the front rubber piece as the secondary sealing, together with the rear ruber on the cable? If you ever did the repair....... Do you change the rubber on the cable or you keep the old one there? The old one is partially formed and you can see a edges on it, so it is not a plain surface. Thanks. Petr
  10. Hi Carol, the bubles were frozen in the ice. The shots were taken when I was endging an ice dive and I saw the sun thru the cutted ice... Thank you for your comments. Petr
  11. Cheers Dean, 5m is on few sites only. Mostly is about 1-3m. Petr
  12. Hi Dean, most of the freshwater shots with fishes were taken in Czech lakes and stone pitches.... The other places I dive in freshwater are in Austria. In Czech you can find few sites where you can see pikes, catfishes, zanders, etc. on allmost every dive. The biggest problem is the low visibility which rarely exceed 5-10m. Everage would be around 5m.... But we have here maybe five sites where the vis is good thru all the year. Petr
  13. Hi Guys, here is link to the pictures from my latest trip. Egypt (Brothers, Daedalus, Elphinstone, etc.) www.uws.cz Look forward for your comments (criticism welcome ). Regards, Petr Stolz www.uws.cz
  14. Hi guys, I have finaly decieded to buy the Nikon 10,5mm fisheye. I use Ike housing. I have old version of the Ike 8" dome port ( for 12-24mm) which can't use the extensions rings. Here is my question: Is the 8" dome port so much better compare to the 6" dome port? The 6" is around 140 USD and the 8" is around 350 USD. I'm not sure if I should buy the 8..... if it realy perform so much better I should spent more....... Thanks for opinions. Petr
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