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Everything posted by maelstrom

  1. I have that lens for land use, and don't really like it. Plus you will need a bigger dome than 6 inches. I think you will be much happier with the Tokina 10-17mm, and a 60mm macro. I use mine for video and stills with my 70D. There is no one lens that does it all, at least well.. I use the solas and strobes with a 3 way clamp. Kind of awkward, but it works. Hal
  2. My Nauticam 70D housing was available quite soon after the camera came out, no more than 3 months. Expect the same for the 7DII. Hal
  3. 95% of my topside shots are with the 24-105mm f4L. It has image stabilization and is the sharpest zoom I hav ever used. I rarely use my 17-40mm, and am looing to sell it. Hal
  4. And your conclusions are??? I was just about to order the 16-35mm f2.8 for my upcoming Galapagos trip when I heard about this lens. Greatly interested in any comparison. Hal
  5. Interesting to note that one housing manufacturer seems to be over represented here, especially where there was no blatant user error involved. This agrees with my observations, as well. It always baffles me that people who happily pay $6000+ for a trip will try to save $1500 on a housing which malfunctions or floods, spoiling their trip, and costing them a great deal to replace the ruined camera and lens. I have also seen a few floods from gross user error when the housing was worked on in the evening, after consuming alcohol. I will never work on my camera after drinking. I have flooded 2 cameras due to the main housing o-ring popping out of it's groove, one in a test dunk, both due to user error. Now, I remove this o-ring as infrequently as possible during a trip, and have gone 7 years without any more camera floods. I had a vacuum system installed on my Nauticam housing. It is simple to use, and gave me much confidence during a recent trip to Mexico, where the camera facilities on the liveaboard were decidedly suboptimal. Time will tell if this confidence is misplaced, but I am certain it will detect any large breaches of housing integrity. I have had continual and ongoing problems with the battery compartment o-ring binding in my Inon 240-Zs while screwing the cap on, resulting in a danger of flooding. Usually this is obvious, but not always. More grease, and new o-rings have not improved this situation.
  6. I have done about 70 dives with my 70D in a Nauticam housing. I am very impressed by the camera. It shoots excellent stills, and video that is vastly better then previous DSLRs, mostly due to the dual pixel autofocus. I just returned from the Revillagigedos, which is pretty much all pelagics. The still and video autofocus worked flawlessly, even on Mantas in fairly murky water. I used the Tokina 10-17mm, which works very well with this camera. For stills, I shoot RAW in manual mode. For video, I shoot "all i" format, and custom white balance. The housing has had some issues which required a return to the dealer for repair. Images from my first trip with this rig are at: http://www.pbase.com/hge54/phillipines_12201312014
  7. My favorite image of 2013: a Decorated War Bonnet on red soft coral. It was taken at my favorite dive site in the world: Browning Pass, Port Hardy, British Columbia, Canada. Hal
  8. This is new, unused, and in box. I bought it to use with my Subal dome, but ended up selling the dome with the Subal housing. Asking: $200.
  9. Prices: EOS 7D Body: $800US Nauticam Housing for 7D: $2100US I have recently purchased a 70D and housing, so keeping all lenses, ports, etc. The housing has about 90-100 dives, has been carefully cared for, has never flooded, and works perfectly. The on camera flash on the 7D body sticks occasionally, but can be put up manually, if that happens. Otherwise, it works perfectly. I will sell the housing without the camera, but not the camera without the housing.
  10. I normally shoot the 10-17mm with a mini dome, but thinking of adding a 1.4x Kenko telextender for this location. What extension ring should be used with a 7D and Nauticam housing? Hal
  11. I cannot recall the specific oring now, but the information is readily available on Reef Photo's web site. The Nauticam port orings are much thicker. I would not even consider using one. E_Viking may have solved this problem. if you turn it fully counter clockwise, it locks again. Backing off just a little frees it up. I was not quite sure what he meant, but stopped in Ocean Optical, and Jack Connick showed me in Person. Many Thanks. Hal
  12. I ordered the correct o ring, which is actually made by Sea&Sea, not Nauticam. Thank you for your suggestions. Hal
  13. I was always worried about my Subal type 3 ports coming off underwater, so I switched to Nauticam. Now, I find that taking ports off of my Nauticam 7D housing is difficult, and requires a lot of force. Much harder yet is separating the zen minidome from the extension ring. I have had to soak them in very hot water, and then use all my strength to rotate them and pull them apart. (Yes, I did unlock them). Now, I cannot get them apart at all. I would have much preferred the easy removal with Subal to my present situation. All comments appreciated. Hal
  14. The 10-17mm is too wide for sharks, but a wonderful lens. My shark lens is a 17-55 Nikonf2.8. You might get by with a 1.4 tele-extender for the 10-17. I have the 100mm Zen minidome. It is made for the Tokina 10-17, and works great with it, but probably will not work well with other lenses. For macro, you will need something like 60mm, and a flat port. Hal
  15. My 1 year old Sola 800 flooded over the weekend. It is just over 1 year old, and has never been opened, dropped, or abused in any way. Has anyone else had this happen? Hal
  16. Incredible footage. They are just like house pets. I have the exact same system. When the subject changes distance you have to keep refocussing with the 7D. Compared to a camcorder that always keeps your subject in focus, I find it to be very frustrating. Hal
  17. Fantastic shots. Were you using a rebreather?
  18. Selling Nikon D300 rig, including camera body, Nikon 16mm fisheye, Tokina 10-17mm with zoom gear, Nikon 105mm(not VR) with focus gear, Nikon 60mm, Nikon 17-55mmf2.8(best zoom I have ever used, a great shark and fish lens)with zoom gear, 2 camera batteries Selling Subal ND30 housing for Nikon D300 with an Inon 45 degree magnigying viewfinder, including 8.5 inch Subal glass dome port, manual focus port for 60mm, manual focus port for 105mm, manual focus gear for 105mm, a 70mm extension ring, and a Macro Mate wet diopter for Subal ports, 4 electrical synch cords, and many o-rings. The dome shade is a little worn, but the glass is pristine on all of the ports. The housing has a few minor scratches, but functions perfectly . The macro mate has a few scratches. The housing and ports are all type 3. I switched to Canon for land photography a few years ago, so I have decided to do the same for underwater photography, as well. I may consider selling lenses individually, but the camera body, ports, and housing will stay together. Asking: $4500 for all
  19. Recently purchased full Nauticam 7D system from bkkcriss4. The sale was handled promptly and professionally. Merchandise was in perfect condition, and just as advertised. Hal
  20. A D300s will fit in a D300 housing by changing the back? I have been planning to upgrade to a video capable rig. This would be great news.
  21. Nikon D2xs body. It is nearly new and has about 2000 shutter activations. Works perfectly. I will throw in an extra battery. Asking: $1250US.
  22. I have owned a D2x(flooded), D200(sold), D2xs(still have, can't give away). I could never convince myself that the D2x, D2xs had any better image quality than the D200. My new D300 is much better than any of them, and will be my underwater rig for a long time. My experience correlates very well with the DXO data. Hal
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