timthefish

Sold Sent from my D2303 using Tapatalk

I have two used but excellent condition +5 wet lenses they can be stacked or used single. 67mm thread. £150 including postage in UK, I will post to overseas at cost Sent from my D2303 using Tapatalk Sent from my D2303 using Tapatalk

Hi I'd be interested in the flip dioptre holder and the cmc lens. I am based in the UK Sent from my D2303 using Tapatalk

I think you'll be happy. I have the FIT 1200. I use it as a primary for wreck, as a focus light I rarely have it on full power. I have never had it run out of power so the battery must last longer than 2 hours.

That's not a bad deal on the port, I'd probably of had that if I already had the lens. The price for the lens is a bit steep, it is 251 on amazon. I think I am going for the 14 -42 kit with dioptres as I already have those. I need a cheap way to get the camera underwater as I just bought a new track bike and am busy tuning it

Steve, how much are you looking for? Tim

Cool, nice one. I just bought the housing off him. Seems like an easy guy to deal with. You won't go far wrong

There is a 8mm gear on ebay.Co.UK. Have a look on buy and sell uw photography equipment on Facebook there is a flat port and dome for sale from a guy who is selling his em10 housing. I think he still has it all as I am buying the housing

Have a look on divervision.com I got some sea & sea type plugs for the strobe and a dual plug for my housing. I use some old cheap fibre optic cables. I have also used the cheap 2mm tos link cables. It's far cheaper and with a couple of spare plugs in the camera bag you can fix problems on the fly

Fill the void with the focus light ball. Alternatively buy a spare ball adapter to fill the gap. Leave the light attached. Buy a normal clamp to replace. I would just leave the light there and use it. I always have a light on my rig, even when it's super light underwater. I don't know you're situation or conditions you dive in, I wouldn't leave an empty hole in the clamp I think you will stress it

No none at all just make sure you read the notes. I seem to remember that sometimes there is a note saying firmware upgrade needed. This is a major PITA don't bother. Go with manual you'll have the hang of it in a couple of dives. Study strobe positioning then the power is easy to sort. I practiced at home in a dark bedroom and in varying light levels, if I couldn't go diving it gave me time to practice my skills

I would check the ttl compatibility on the sea and sea website. If your camera doesn't ttl with the 110a I would forget them and the ys01 and go with two ys02 and go manual. With the money you save get a decent focus light. The extra feature on the ys01 is the ttl and aiming light. You won't use that aiming light to aim strobes or as a focus light as it won't be pointed at the subject. I have a ys110a which does not ttl with my camera and I don't miss it at all. I am adding a ys02 next week.

Shutter speed will control the colour of the water

I have got a fit 1200 fsr and that's fairly decent. I would think the 2400 would be good also

Ys02 on ebay for 148 brand new, it's from outside the UK but you might get away with the import duty. The ys01 is 223 from the same place. Type in underwater strobe in the search. 01 has a spotting light (no use) and has ttl. I have a YS 110a and I never use the ttl as manual is just as easy. If I had my time again I'd get a 02