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EspenRekdal

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Everything posted by EspenRekdal

  1. I've got a Dive and See housing with Ninja 2 for sale. It comes with a 5m extension cable and bulkhead to fit to a Nauticam housing. Its not as fancy looking as the Nauticam housings but it has a better and more solid connector. Anyway, PM me if you're interested.
  2. Hello fellow listers, I'm putting my Atomos Ninja2 recorder and underwater housing from Diveandsee up for sale. The setup also includes a 6m long underwater HDMI cable for pole-cam uses. The atoms Ninja recorder is working very well. The charger only charges one battery at a time as one position does not work. A new charger is 30USD on B&H. The setup comes with a bulkhead for use on Nauticam M16 hole and a 6m underwater HDMI cable with DNC connectors. Also spare o-rings for the Diveandsee housing. The setup cost 3100 USD new. I'm asking 1500 USD, buyer pays shipping. Thanks for watching. Espen.
  3. Hello fellow listers! I'm offering two Patima substrobe housings for the Nikon SB-900 flash for sale. Each strobe housing comes with a Nikonos 5 sync cable. Both housings are in good shape with minimal wear. I have been using these flashes ability to sync faster than 1/250th of a second, to freeze fast movemets. It is possible to use the entire nikon speedflash protocol with these; i.e faster sync, stroboscopic, etc. I'm asking 500USD each. Buyer pays shipping. This includes the sync cable and neoprene cap.
  4. Will do, but it might take a while. I'm busy diving these days but will try to edit and grade something in a few weeks.
  5. Thanks for the reviews Simon! Very informative. I have "Jerry-rigged" an old Nikon F100 Nexus housing to fit my pocket camera with full focus and aperture control. I use a Nikon adapter and a Sigma 8-16mm lens behind a 170 port. I have been really happy with the dynamic range of this setup and have graded the raw files in Resolve. I did post a few frame grabs a while back in another thread. Last week I shot in very green and dark water at around 15m depth. I had to push the Raw files up two stops in post (Iso 3200). A little chroma noise reduction in post and voila! - useable sharp footage! I even managed to balance out the WB (No filter). Basically went out and bought a BMCC MFT and a Nauticam housing today. My only gripe with Nauticams housing is the lack of a extra aperture wheel on the right housing side to control the aperture ring on a speed booster or G-compatible Nikon adapter. I'll be making and installing one myself. Another stop of light and a wider field of view will be awesome! E. ;-)
  6. Thanks for the info! I have never had this happen to me.
  7. Hi Edmond, Its most beneficial to use a shutter angle around 180 degrees for best looking motion blur. If you shoot in a 50Hz environment then its good to use 172 because that will reduce flicker around artificial light. This has no consequence underwater where you would use a dc light source. Regarding kelvin I'd use a warm rather than cold setting so that you have some information in the red channel to work with when shooting without lights in prores (I recommend RAW for best results). That said I'd recommend you use a K that corresponds to your lights when using them and shoot raw when you are shooting without lights. I shoot raw for WA and prores for macro with lights. I use a daylight setting for my kelvin when shooting prores. Regarding the cards. There is still just one out there that supports RAW recording so the choice is kind of limited INMO. Happy shooting, E.
  8. Hello Thani, No artificial lighting just natural light. To me this camera does very well in low light, with a speed booster it could do even better when needed. I'm not too sure about the 4K model though it seems to like more light than what we have this time of the year. About diving in Norway: Visibility here is about 20m+ at this time but varies a lot depending on where you dive and what time of the year. Temperatures this time of the year range from around 0C to about 8C depending on where you dive. The outer coast being the warmest and the fjords being the coldest. Tell Sultan to bring his drysuit, he will need it! :-) I'm probably biased but I love diving in Norway and feel the diving is some of the best cold water diving in the world. E.
  9. I got my hands on a BMPCC not to long ago and last week I had the time to jerry rig one of my old film Nexus housings (a Nikon F100). These housings have two wheels to adjust aperture and focus/zoom so I could use these to adjust aperture and focus on a Sigma 8-16mm lens. I used a small glass dome and a standard adapter - not a speed booster. I test shot the rig in a dark cloudy winter day here in Norway. Lens was set to wide open and Iso at 800, which seemed to be just right light wise. A small tweak in adobe camera raw and here is the result: Aaargh! I'll need to upload this first.. stay tuned.
  10. Cheers guys! I did see a guy using the Nikonos 15mm on Reds to get good 3d video. Not sure you would be able to get that in front of a BM4k with a EF mount without serious mods if at all. But water contact optics sure would be nice! E.
  11. Thanks Jonny, Would that be the distagon Ziess? Canon or nikon mount or one of the pl mount cine primes? Thanks, Espen.
  12. Thanks Ferg, Yeah I've been thinking that is one of the possibilities. Here up north its highly unlikely you'll get f8 under normal conditions so it would have to be a lens that does a decent image a bit more open. But there aren't to many to choose from. The Tokinas have quite a bit of CA, do you know if they using any software to get rid of it in post? Thanks, Espen
  13. Its a production camera and not really made for run and gun shooting. If I was to go that route I would simply download a days work into resolve adjust WB, exposure and tint and then output to prores. Then delete the raw. Minor tweeks hold up well with prores for the final grading. For me the most difficult thing would be to select what glass to use with an EF mount no less. Kind of wish it was a e-mount with a 12mm Zeiss for WA. Anyone know what the red guys use for the epics? E.
  14. Prores 422 gives you quite a lot of leeway in post so unless you're really pushing dark and murky stuff you might be able to fix it in post. This could be nice with a camera that eats a 64GB card in 20 min when shooting raw. If you have photoshop and you are used to using camera raw with photos, open your prores file in photoshop. Convert it to a smart object and use the camera raw filter to adjust tint and color temperature. See if that doesn't set you close enough, it has for me when I've been sloppy with WB. The question is if it actually would be less time consuming to just use raw in resolve and output to prores after getting the WB right. Then delete the raw folders. Cheers, E.
  15. Hi Joe, great news! Will your housing make allowances for the use of the dedicated BMPCC metabones speedbooster? Extra battery solution? Thanks, E.
  16. Rui, I concur with Juerg. Deal with them direct. They have great customer support (I've tried it first hand!). @Juerg, no problem, glad I could help!
  17. Rui, To answer your question about ergonomics, Juerg pretty much got it right. When I start my dive I usually set to monitor, then press display mod and enable focus-peaking and zebras before going back out of the display mod. This is a one per dive setup and record standby is done on the most accessible button on the housings bottom right. You could get away with shooting both video and stills too as long as you only use live view for video (photo live view will change the video size etc) and as long as you don't press the record button on the camera. I have used the camera to do both on occasion, but I find the optimal setup for both (photo and video) is difficult to combine. The camera will work with the cards loaded and you will be able to record video at the correct resolution provided you don't also hit the cameras record button. If you do, you will have to restart the ninja.. thats all! Happy snappin! E.
  18. @Rui, I dont have the D800, but there is no problem recording to the ninja with the cards in place with my D4. The problem arises when you try to record to the card at the same time you are recording to the ninja. The feed will then automatically get scaled to 720p on the hdmi port and the ninja will record 720p instead of 1080p. @Buddy, This happens when you have a bad connection between camera and ninja. My guess is that the Hdmi C connector between the camera and cable is at fault. Usually this is easily fixed with a new cable. Be aware though that the connection between camera and cable is very easily ruined by even small movements of the contact (yea it sucks!). E
  19. Could that ghosting be a result of shutter angle. Perry said he had been using multiple shutter angles for these clips. E.
  20. Not sure i fully understand what you're asking, but seems to me that you have shot your video at a fixed WB and would like to put back the reds in post? This will not yield good results unless you are very shallow. You need to WB manually by WB on a white slate or similar at shooting depth before you shoot your video. Unless you are shooting RAW-video that is with a Canon 5D running "alternative" software. E.
  21. No worries Simon! I hope you make it all. And thanks for taking the time! E.
  22. Agreed, You will lose most by having to stop down to get more depth. At those super wide angles (8-16mm) will you have to stop down so much that you'll loose all your light gains to achieve workable depth? I need the metabones for my landscape shots only, and as such, the depth should be adequate at lower aperture values (I have no illusions about wide open!). The added lens surface contributing to the light hitting the sensor should at the very least buy me a half stop or so all else being equal or do you think I'm being to optimistic? I'm not likely to house my pocket camera, it is as you say a nice B-cam and will se its use topside. However I do like the idea of the M43 BMCC in a Nauticam housing with a special aperture gear for the metabones speedbooster. It should be doable, just hook it up to the zoomgear for those wide shots! E. E.
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