Jump to content

emdru

Member
  • Content Count

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About emdru

  • Rank
    Clownfish
  1. Thanks for the link, Bill. At least I know that it is feasible, if not commercial. In an email from Jean Bruneau at Aquatica, and on the Nauticam web site, both companies are looking at the feasibility of this concept. Ed
  2. I couldn't find what you were referring to, but doesn't the 7d use its popup flash to fire the strobes?
  3. I have been using Canon 5d series for the last five or so years. As a "prosumer" style ff camera, they do not have a built in flash. As a consequence, electrical sync cords are a must. I am tired of spending $150+ for replacing these cords every other year or so, despite taking compulsive care of them. Does anyone know if there is a way of simulating on-camera flash from the hotshot to sync through a fiberoptic cable to Sea&Sea DS-1 flash.
  4. Frequent removal and cleaning of the backplate o-ring is not necessary, according to Jean Bruneau, of Aquatica. You only need to examine the surface of the ring for debris. It is so wedged into the housing channel that it is fairly impervious to the debris that a standard port o-ring is susceptible to. Frequent removal of the compression o-ring is more likely to cause more damage and potential failure than is leaving it in. I remove and clean mine about every 6 months or so, or after about every 100 dives.
  5. Stewart, thats a good start. I have used that setting on land to lower flash output. The Sony is also my wife's. Bought it for her as a birthday present. I'm just using it until I can show her how to get great pics Ed
  6. Need help before my next trip. I have a recently purchased Sony NEX-5 in the Aquatica Housing, using a single YS-110a. I recently came back from a trip and was disappointed in the lighting. The flash manual tells how to set up for TTL, using slave setting to fire. The Sony has the following settings: slow sync, fill-in flash, auto flash, and second shutter sync. I used the fill flash mode, but in TTL mode, I was not able to turn down the flash output - all images were several stops overexposed. I had better luck with setting the flash to manual, and generally keeping the camera shutter at 1/125 and just playing around with ISO and aperture, but I really would like to know if the TTL is something worth persuing. My other setup is a Canon 5D MKII, Aquatica housing and two DS 160s, all set to manual, but I would like to see if I can match the lighting quality with a smaller and lighter rig, especially as baggage allowances are shrinking, and excess weight charges are increasing dramatically, particularly on flights to Asia. Any help is greatly appreciated. Ed Druy
  7. With the fisheye, do you need to center the close-up objects to avoid distortion. I've used ultra-wide (weitwinkel) before on my 20D, and didn't need to worry about the distortion of the fisheye. Can you point me to any links? I've read much of the books on CFWA, but not specifically about the fisheye. There has been discussion here about using it with a 1.4 extender. Do you still have to worry about edge distortion? Ed
  8. You are absolutely right. Would the 12-24 be a suitable lens for CFWA, or are there better choices? Sigma Fish Eye or other zooms? Ed
  9. I've upgraded from a Canon 20D to the full frame 5D. Looking for superwide angle lens and am considering the Sigma 10-20mm autofocus f2.8 lens. Anyone with experience with this lens? Best alternatives? I am using Ikelite housing. Thanks for your input. Ed
  10. This technique may be widely known, but I've not seen it posted here before, and discovering it has saved me a lot of aggravation. Canon DSLRs, at least the 20D, 30D, Rebel and 5D have Custom Function 4 available which enables you to decouple the focus lock from the shutter and auto-exposure button. By setting CF 4 to either 1 or 3, you can use the AE Lock button * as the auto-focus control. Ikelite housings, at least, have a controller for this. By using this to focus, when you let up on the button, focus is locked, which means you can now use manual focus if you are not able to achieve auto focus for whatever reason - dim light, poor contrast, etc. Any of the auto focus EOS lenses should be able to be switched to manual focus with this technique, assuming the port has a focus control. Ed Druy
  11. Since the 60 requires such a close shooting distance, have you all had better results with a 100mm Macro, letting you stand off from the subject a bit more? Is there any other advantage to the 100 vs the 60? Ed
  12. Thanks for your reply to my post. What is the advantage of the Fish Eye Fix light over the other LED lights, such as the Ike MiniC and others which attach to the strobe arm. Is it simply the brightness? Do you attach it to the strobe arm next to the strobe, or in a fixed position lower down toward the housing? Seems incredibley exensive compared to other focusing/modelling lights. Ed
  13. Need help solving a focusing problem. Am using a Canon 20D, Ikelite housing, DS-125 and DS-50 strobes. Just purchased a canon 60mm f2.8 Macro with auto focus and Ike housing. My problem on my last trip was getting the system to autofocus at close distances. I was using the modelling light on the DS125 and had a bright LCD underwater flash attached to the DS50, but when trying to get 1:1 closeups, even with the lights on, there was often not enough contrast in the subject to obtain autofocus. Anyone else having this problem and have solutions. I don't think there is the ability to manually focus this lens with the Ike port. Ed Druy
  14. Mike, thanks for your reply. It sounds like you are using the same setup I am planning. Ed
×
×
  • Create New...