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About Monkey_Knife_Fight

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    Northern California
  1. I'm no expert but here is what i do. Macro isn't so important since there is very little water between the camera and the subject so i usually aim the strobe directly at the subject, usually from above. For wide angle shots you're going to have more chance of backscatter. What i try to do is pull my arms out away from the camera and then aim the strobe straight forward (parallel with the lens of the camera). Some people even angle the strobe to the outside a little(though i would think this works best with 2 strobes). What you want to try to do is hit the subject with the edges of the strobe light (light from strobes goes out in cone shapes). Of course lighting wide angle shots is something i have yet to master. Chris
  2. This is an over-generalization that some DSLR shooters seem to make. I prefer the size of my fuji F810 + DS50 system over pushing a minivan through the water. I can clip it off to my BC and it doesn't get in my way at all...which is important for me since i'm diving first and taking pics second. Also 2000$ for a DSLR setup will leave you nothing for a strobe. I got the F810 + housing for something like $700. Got my DS50 for $350 but with tray, arms, other components i've still got probably $1500 in the thing overall. Any other strobe would have put it more like $2000. Chris
  3. I've never used the Oly's but I've heard they have considerable shutter lag which would annoy me (and is one of the big selling points of DSLRs for UW). Check out the Fuji E900. With the Ikelite housing + adapter you can use your INON lens (i think) and it has no shutter lag, and produces pictures just as good as any DSLR pics i've seen (i'm no pro and know nothing about publishing).
  4. The Ikelite DS50 strobe should be on your list. Relatively low price, small size, but quite powerful.
  5. For that price think about the Fuji E900. No shutter lag, great pictures, similar price. I don't know much about the S80 though so maybe it also has minimal shutter lag. Also the Ike DS50 for a strobe is something to think about it. Nice and small but very powerful.
  6. I'd recommend the Fuji E900 + ikelite housing. That should come in well under $1000 and you will be very pleased with the quality of pictures.
  7. Still trying to get rid of this. You can get it for $75 shipped.
  8. SSIA Looking for ike manual EV controller #4100.6
  9. I don't know anything about the camera but is it $400 for just the camera? I think for that kinda money you should definitely look at the Fuji E900. Ikelite is currently making a case for it. It looks a lot like the Fuji F810 (which i use) but maybe better battery life. Just another suggestion EDIT: It will definitely be a camera that grows with you. Chris
  10. P&S is point and shoot (non-SLR) camera. Obviously much smaller. I would agree with dave. I've never used an SLR underwater but i've seen lots of people with them. The rigs get rather big pretty fast. I wouldn't want to try to free dive with it. Plus P&S cameras have the screen on the back to frame the pic while you need to use the viewfinder for an SLR...seems like that might be tricky in the limited down time freediving.
  11. You can get a nice black background with only F8. Here is an example with my camera which also has a minimum aperture of F8. Not the best pic but it shows the dark background. Settings were F8 1/1000 with internal flash.
  12. Hey folks i have an Ike TTL controller (4100.5). It's in good shape but i want to get an EV controller (4100.6). If anyone has the EV controller and wants to trade that would be great. Or i will sell the TTL controller for 80$ shipped anywhere in the states. Some pictures here if you want to see it. TTL Chris
  13. I take RAW with the F810. Bit of a delay but i must say it's never bothered me. Would never take JPEG's underwater
  14. Fuji F810 + Ikelite housing. 6.something MP. Do a search here and www.digitaldiver.net for F810 and you'll find all the info you need.
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