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Kimmeineche

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Posts posted by Kimmeineche


  1. Hi David!

     

    Thanks for your offer, but I would really love to have something with manual WB (As far I rememeber it's only accessable through the touchscreen on the TD10?).

     

    I found the Hurricane rig at youtube. Looks very cool..... and very huge! :-)

     

    You are more than welcome to mail me at: kim(a)photoub.dk ... I'm about to leave for the dayly work!

     

    Best regards again from Kim!

     

     

     

    Hi Kimmeineche

     

     

    Welcome back. 3D forum is a bit quite lately.

     

     

    Panasonic HDC-Z10000 seems to have faded away since launch. I was looking for one but none were sold here is Singapore.

    I have tried the Sony TD 10. Works great. I am looking for new home for this fella. If you could make a housing for it then its going cheap. I could even help you get the controls.

    Looking at making a housing for the XF105. On land I use a Hurricane rig. I would be very interested in making a UW mirror rig like you did with two Nexus housings. Can I send you private email maybe on this project- that is if you are interested smile.png

     

     

    Cheers

    David


  2. Hi All!

     

    Still looking for at better solution than my Fuji W3 in a homebuild housing, I would like to know if some one here at wetpixel have any experience or comments on the Panasonic HDC-Z10000.

     

    Compared to the the usual trade in camcorders, 3D-systems seems to be very few with less you want to mess with dual rigs, genlocking, mirrors, etc… and when it comes to underwateruse with needs of wide or extreme wideangle lenses, the possible choices become even fever!

     

    With my discover of this http://www.cyclopital3d.com/PANASONIC-3D-ADAPTERS.html (Wide and extreme wide angle adapter is found in the middle of the site) from cyclopital3D, I think the HDC-Z10000 could be an interesting choice for underwateruse. Plenty of websites and Panasonic themselves rate this camcorder as ”Professional” but how good is this camcorder when it comes to reallity and compared to other professional camcorders?

     

    Personally I like:

     

    Dual sensors/lenses (No genlocking, no mirrors, only one camcorder, etc…)

    Manual WB

    Manual convergence

    Image stabilizing

    External monitor is possible

    Focus in only 45cm (Macro)

     

     

    My concerns:

    How good Is the dynamic range compared to other truely professional camcorders?

    Is video developing so fast (Looks like 4K is just around the corner?) that the price of the Panasonic HDC-Z10000 will come down remarkable in a short time?

    Lack of any possibility that I will miss underwater?

     

     

    Any help or discussing on the subject will be highly appreciated before I throw myself and my money into another project! :-)

     

    Thank you very much in advance from Kim Meineche


  3. Sorry to read that another specie has left the planet! :-(

     

    If my mind remembers right, I saw a dokumentary years ago, that told us about a tortoise that could be about 250years old? It should even had been allive at the time of Napoleon..... unfortuanetly I don't remember the name of the film but I'm quite sure it was a BBC production!

     

    May you RIP dear George!

     

    Kim Meineche!

     

     

     

    Hi Crew,

     

    Thought I'd share this

     

    "Lonesome George, the last remaining tortoise of his kind and a conservation icon, died on Sunday of unknown causes, the Galapagos National Park said. He was thought to be about 100 years old."

     

    Full article

     

     

     

    qkELz.jpg


  4. Hi David!

     

    I'm just glad to be able to help you! I think the cyclopital3d makes some very interesting stuff and Tanja and Ken are both very kind persons!

    I have both their Fuji W3 wide angle auxallery-adapter and the macro adpter......Without these adapters I wouldn't even think about taking my Fuji W3 underwater.

    Like you I am very sure that the Sony TD1 adapters will work underwater as well.... in other words: If it doesn't I don't know any lenses that makes sence to take it underwater. My only concerns will be the small stereobasis of only 31mm.....should be working very good for CFWA but how about the 3D-effect on subjects like wrecks where you want to have as much as possible of the wreck in the frame? I'll cross my fingers and hope for the best and really wish you good luck... and will wait in excitement for pictures/clips of your results!

     

    BTW: I expect that you have already seen the pictures of my housing that I posted in another thread some time ago... in case you havn't there is a couple of links here:

     

    http://www.3dphotography.dk/wetpixel/fujihousing/fuji1.jpg

     

    http://www.3dphotography.dk/wetpixel/fujihousing/fuji2.jpg

     

     

     

    Cheers again from KIM! :-)

     

     

    Wow that Cyclopital adapter is exactly what I needed. Thanks a million for the link Kim. This saves me lathe milling out two separate wide angle converters. Hand milling is difficult. Now I could check out the Sealux housing. I have both TD 10 and NEx3D 1e. Selling the TD10 (this is 720p only) and it is full auto 3d. The Nex 3D1e is 1080p (25) on each eye and adjustable 3D. I never tested JVC but the footage from the TD10 and 3D1e is very good within 1.5m to 10m. Good enough for television. The Sealux housing has mechanical control to adjust 3D depth. In theory if the Cyclopital works on land it should work UW. I am really excited now that the conversion works.

     

    Thanks again. I will show some results once I get some time to do it.

     

    Cheers

     

    David


  5. Hi Drew!

     

    Funny but 90° is probably the most popular FOV for cinematographers underwater. Any more and distortion shows too much and a fisheye lens limits how the camera is panned.

     

    Actually I have never been thinking about that, but yes... you are probably right!

    I might still be to addicted to my experiences with still-photography and mostly think about the conditions I am up to in the nordic waters with poor light and often bad visibility that makes me willing to accept some distortion to move closer to my subjects for better colors and light?! :-)

     

     

    Kim

    Even Cameron/Pace people aren't immune to critique for their 3D stuff so don't feel too shy. Only mothers see perfection! :)

     

    Right again.... but video is just so new to me that I don't want people to expect too much from my posted clips... furthermore, the Fuji W3 is probably in the lowest range for video-cameras at all... but at least I feel that I learn a lot from what I get from this... in the meantime I am thinking/dreaming about what 3D-camcorders becomes available in the future for a reasonable price..... even some thourghts on a dual Nikon D800 rig has come to my mind, to be able to do both stills and video with the same equipment... but then again..... lots of post-work, problems with convergence specially on the videoside........ problems, problems, thourghts, thourghts............. and probably plenty of time to save the money before another project persuade me to open my wallet! :-)

     

    Best regards again from Kim! :-)


  6. Hi David!

     

    Thank you very much for the kind words about my Fuji W3-project! :-)

     

    I am really curious to see the results with the TD10 and even more to see your wide angle converter. Must be difficult work that needs very special tools? If I knew what cyclopital3d was up to made http://www.cyclopital3d.com/Sony-Camcorder-Accessories.html, before I started the Fuji W3-project, I probably would have buyed the TD10 or the NEX3D1E...... even problems on how to reaching controls that might only is available through the touchscreen and/or remotecontrol has to be solved as well.... it could really be interesting to see some detailed pictures and a first hand review on the sealuxhousing to see how they solved the problems!

     

    It looks like Cyclopital has made an even wider lens for the JVC GS-TD1 & GY-HMZ1U ProHD...... but compared to what I know about video so far, I can't tell if the quality of the output is best from the Sony's or the JVC's.... all four cameras are probably very far from the quality of a 4K camera which looks to become available for a still lower price ... IF there will ever be a 3D 4K camera with dual lenses? Well, a dual rig is of course a lot more flexible, but also much more timeconsuming in post-work, not to menssion the size and the problems you will have on the plane, on the boat and in the water with a dual camera rig! :-)

     

    I really looking forward to know more as your moving forward with your project, David!

     

    Good luck and cheers again from Kim! :-)

     

    Hi Kim

     

    Great to hear you are making strides with the Fuji W3 and I enjoyed the 3D videos. I have been machining down a 100deg. megapixel lens wide angle converter on my Sony TD10. Getting close to completing. Getting two to fit exactly is difficult. Even with slight vignette the wide conversion seems to work. The next stage is of course get rid of the cut-offs. Then its time for UW in a TD10 Sealux housing. At the moment I am a bit distracted with all the 4K stuff. I will post some if it is successful. In any case I will show even failures in my blog.

     

    Happy DIY and keep up the good work.

     

    cheers

     

    David


  7. cut-----------------------------------

     

    I think Kimmeineche (wetpixeller) made UW beamsplitter using two Nexus rigs...he may chime in.

     

    Cheers

     

    David

     

    Hi David!

     

    Yes I made an UW-beamsplitter for my dual Nikon D200 setup in Nexushousings (Think it was in 2009). For stills it works very good except from some focusing problems, but since I only use it for macro (2 x 60mm nikkor micro) I think I can't ask for better results. In other words, one macro lens can be hard enough to focus at the right point.... and here we talk about 2! :-)

     

    The 50/50 mirror seems to resist seawater very well, but sand and other particles is a much bigger isue so I have to change the mirror now and then as it becomes scatched, depending on how nice I am able to treat it when I enter the water from a sandy beach, etc....

    Well.... many of my beamsplitter shots goes directly to the paperbasket but some of the results I am very satisfied with, but for video I think it will not work, due to the problems menssioned in the thread.

     

    Like others I am VERY courious to see the design of the beamsplitter behind the domeport, since I really can't imagine any solution with more than 90degrees coverage from a beamsplitter, but who knows and I really LOVE to read about DIY projects!!! :-)

     

    Not to be off-topic but so far I have about 100 degrees of coverage on my Fuji W3 mounted in a cyclopital3d wideangle adpator behind wideanglelenses from Ryanox and a homebaked dual domeport (Homebuild housing). i am still experimenting a lot, so tha'ts why I have been rather silent about the project.........but so far:

     

    A small example from the pool, recorded in the evening with only artifical light available together with my LightMonkey dual 50watt HID's:

    And another example from a local divespot with about 5m visibility which is faily good conditions for the locallity:

    And last a short clip from a trip to Norway when we dived the wreck of D/S Spring:

     

    (BEWARE: This is among my VERY FIRST records and experince with video so don't expect it to be perfect!).

     

    The very best regards from Kim Meineche! :-)


  8. Looks pretty darn good--congrats!

     

    Thank you vey much!

     

    Actually it can be done even more simple! Just by rightclicking the videoclip at the timeline AFTER setting "properties\media\stereoscopic 3D mode" to “"Off”…".. makes the "Stabilize media" available like in any other mono-clips.

    After the stabilizing, the properties\media\stereoscopic 3D mode must be turned back again to "pair wiht next stream" or what ever it was from the start......

    Amazing how simple life can be.....! :-)

     

    Best regrds again from Kim! :-)


  9. Hi again!

     

    Belive it or not......still playing around in Sony Vegas it actually looks like the problem is solved! :-)

     

    Take a look for yourself (First the original clip and then the stabilized). Except from the rendering and the stabilizing, everything is straight out of the box:

     

    I know I am an absolute beginner in video, but I must say that I am pretty amazed how much power I got from this cheap program (Sony Vegas Platinium)l

     

    The workflow I did (Works at least with AVI-files from the Fuji W3), step by step was:

     

    Rightclik the 3D-file you want to stabilize in the "project media" fane and choose "Open in trimmer".

    Rightclick the picture-window in the trimmer and choose "Create Subclip".

    Rightclick the subclip in the "Project Media" fane and choose "Stabilize media".

    Insert the stabilized file in the timeline and you are done! :-)

     

    The very best regards again from Kim! :-)

     

     

    Sure! As I said, I'm not familiar enough with Vegas to know how powerful it is. The key (har!) is that the motion tracker must generate keyframes that you can copy into the other video's motion track; if Vegas' motion tracker just makes the changes without giving you access to the keyframes, then it won't work.

     

     

     

    Aw, I was just giving you a hard time--I totally understand how it is. We're all UW shooters here!

     

    I do definitely recommend getting a tripod for macro; shooting really good macro video without one is incredibly difficult, and I certainly wouldn't want to try it. If your housing has a standard 1/4-20 tripod screw on it, you could get one of those small flexible tripods from Jobe; they aren't too heavy, but for a small camera like the W3, it should be enough. The key is for the camera to be weighted enough that the surge can't move it around.

     

    Best of luck!


  10. Hi blaisedouros!

     

    Thank you very much for this info! As far I know, Sony Vegas can also do motion track, but maybe it isn't as good as Adobe After Effects?

    I don't have After Effects myself, but will see what I can do to try out your suggestion!

     

    You are absolutely right about the best way to apply image stabilization is to get it in-camera, but laying free in the water with something like a 100mm macro-lens is VERY difficult to keep steady for half a minute or so.... and unfortuanetly the Fuji W3 doesn't have any inbuild functions to stabilize the image......!

     

    If nothing works, I might try to make a tripod for my camera, but mostly my diving is not predictable enough to know if I will do the recording on a step wall or at the flat ground.... or between rocks, etc....

     

    The very best regards and thank you very much once again from Kim Meineche! :-)

     

     

    I don't know how smart Vegas is, but I doubt it's smart enough to do 3D stabilization--most standard NLEs aren't. However, there is another amazing program out there called Adobe After Effects which I'll bet you can do it using the following process, or something like it.

     

    Here's what I'd try:

     

    Bring in both video streams to After Effects. Apply a motion tracker to the left video stream, track its motion, and get it dialed in where you want it. Then, apply a duplicate motion tracker to the right stream, but DON'T track its motion. Instead, COPY the keyframes from the left stream to the right stream's motion tracker. Voila! Instant duplication of whatever motion keyframes were applied to the left stream, and it should be synchronized exactly.

     

    Note: This is an ugly workaround, and I have never actually tried it. But, knowing what I know about After Effects, as well as 3D, I believe it should work. The ultimate way to apply image stabilization to 3D is to get it right in-camera, since 3D post is double the work! :P


  11. Hi All!

     

    Still trying to learn how to handle/edit 3Dvideo I would like to ask if anyone here knows how to "Stabilize" 3D videoclips. So far I have the Sony Vegas Platinium.. an amazing program for the money with lots of features and possibilities.

     

    I just can't get it "stabilizing" my 3D-videoclips and a dissappointing search on the Internet tells me it might be impossible, due to the convergense that simply has to be interferred by the cropping process which the "Stabilizing" basically is!

     

    If Sony Vegas isn't clever enough to do that..... is there any other possibilities?

     

    By creating a subclip I can use the "Stabilize media" with success but then the clip is no longer in 3D...only a side by side copy of the left track?

     

    Thank you very much in advance for any information/help and the best regards from the Kim Meineche! :-)


  12. Hi Richard!

     

    Cool videos and what a great experience to follow these majestic creatures for such a long time!

     

    Thank's for shearing and the best greetings from Kim Meineche! :-)

     

    Recently I was lucky enough to have an absolutely fanatstic experience snorkelling and diving with manta rays at night whilst they fed in the lights of the boat we were staying on. I've made a couple of short vidoes of them which I'd like to share:

     

     

    Richard


  13. Hi again Alan!

     

    Yes, I know there is a strap on the canister, but to keep it all together and easy for the crew on the boat, I intend to keep the canister attached to the camera with boltsnaps until I get the camera after I have jumped in. In the water I think it is much more easy to attach the canister to the D-ring on my right hip than messing with the strap and a buckle... speially if the weather is a litle rough... but I think I will have to practise and maybe experimenting a little before I found the perfect solution for me! :-)

     

    Well, my camera is 3D but since I'm an absolute beginner in video (With more than 12years experinece in stills) and couldn't find anything suitable for 3D-wideangle, I decided to build a housing for the Fuji W3 with an auxalleryadapter from www.3dcyclopital.com and semi fisheye conversionlenses from Ryanox.

     

    The domeports (Homebaked!!!) secures almost fully covering underwater from the Ryanox lenses... I think the coverage is someting between 95 and 100 degrees with only slightly distortion, which you don't see much of underwater.

     

    Actually I am so new to video that I haven't learned yet how to edit and streaming video-clips for Vimeo, Youtube, etc... but hopefully I will be able to do that in a near future! My sparetime in the last couple of months has been used for building my housing for the Fuji W3 and figuring out which light to get. Compared with the amount and quality of light I came to the solution of the LightMonkey dual 50watts. Tomorrow I will test it in openwater, but the pooltest yesterday has already made me falling in love with these HID lights! :-)

     

    Actually I was looking at the Sony NX3D1 but with only 31mm between the lenses, I couldn't find any wideangle conversionlenses to fit and with only touchscreen-access to a lot of functions I found this camera very difficult to fit into a housing. I will for sure be keeping and eye on the news in 3D-camcorders, but so far I will try to get some fun out of my Fuji W3. At least I will be able to get some footage that I can show on my 3D dual-projector. Time will see what happens in the future!

     

    The best regards again from Kim! :-)

     

    You are welcome, Kim! Your battery pack has a 2" nylon loop attached from Light Monkey for the purpose of sliding onto your waist strap. As seen here:

    50_hid_video_system.jpg

    If you use a weight belt buckle to hold in place on the waist strap it is easily removable if needed but stays secure otherwise without any clips. I too do a lot of technical diving with photo/video gear and prefer to carry stages on the left side leaving the right free for battery packs or a 7' hose if diving OC. Like all your camera gear, keep it clean and it will serve you well. Is your housing 3D? What camera are you using?

    BorosAlan.jpg


  14. I see the point about safety there, but with the E/O cords I think it will be very easy to disconnect the camera from the canister in case you want to dump. Furthermore I entend to attach the canister with easy accessable boltsnaps.

     

    Anyway, thanks for the input/reply!

     

    Best regards again from Kim! :-)

     

     

     

    I don't do too much video, but on one occasion I also threaded the battery pack through the waist strap of my harness. Unfortunately I didn't have E/O connectors and this essentially meant the camera was connected to me and I couldn't put it down. My buddy had a very serious gear failure on that same dive, and my assistance was impaired by the entanglement hazard bouncing after me. I decided after that that it wasn't the safest thing to do. I guess with E/O connectors it's a slightly different story....but cameras should be dumpable.

     

    In terms of E/O reliability, the pins can begin to corrode. Once there is a small gap between the contacts (microscopically small) the electrical current when the lights are operating causes electrolysis. I've observed a tiny trail of bubbles coming out of an E/O connector, from the chemical reaction occurring that produces gas. Obviously this is a self-perpetuating problem where gaps create electrical corrosion and more gaps...eventually power to the light becomes intermittent. The best remedy seems to be ensuring the E/O plugs are firmly pushed together. A rinse in white vinegar can help remove oxidation on the surface of the pins, too.


  15. Thank you Alan!

     

    Both your video-rig and diving equipment configuration looks very clean! Exactely the issue of bouyancy was my first reason to wish the canister away from the camera and I'm very glad to hear that you have had no problems with the E/O cords! :-) Both my rebreather and OC-equipment is kitted up with backplate, wing and harness, so it should be perfect for placing the canister on my hip! Perhaps I should consider placing both my stages on my left size on deeper dives too? :-)

     

    I am going to make a pooltest of my setup this evening and I am really excited and currious to see how the lights work...... that said, I might get a bad impression from the pool where all walls are white?

     

    So far the very best regards and thanks again from Kim! :-)

     

     

     

    I use the same lights. If you wear a backplate & harness style BCD, mount the battery pack on your right hip (the open end of the waist harness) and lock in place with a weight belt buckle. Battery pack on yourself does not effect the buoyancy of the housing. I have not had any problems plugging/unplugging the EO's with years of use. Below are a couple of photos of my Gates rig with this configuration.

    AlanandManta.jpg

    AlanandR22.jpg


  16. Hi dear underwater videographers!

     

    Almost ready to dive my newly built video-setup I am looking for ideas to carry the Ø88mm, 270mm long and 1,36kg heavy (Underwater) battery canister for the videolights.

     

    The videohousing (Homebuild) is Ø230mm and 110mm deep/long so it seems very hard to mount the batterycanister along the housing, which is also nealy perfectly ballanced in the water incl. arms and the dual 50watt HID lightheads (Light Monkey).

     

    To help you imagine what I mean, I added a couble of pictures of the housing and the lights.

     

    http://www.3dphotography.dk/wetpixel/fujihousing/fuji1.jpg

     

    http://www.3dphotography.dk/wetpixel/fujihousing/fuji2.jpg

     

    The E/O-cords makes it possible to plug and unplug the canister underwater but I also hear from other people that these cables are quite sensitive so I would prefer to keep them plugged.

     

    In some way I could mount the canister to the housing but this will make it all quite bulky and I will probably need to add some boyancy compensators too.

     

    Another solution I have been thinking about is fitting a couble of good bolt snaps to the battery canister and clip it on to the camera handles while on the boat/beach, etc...and when I am in the water, I can then clip it onto my self somewhere......if I can find a place among rebreather, stages, etc.

     

    Please let me know your experience in carrying batteries for the videolight.... whatever you keep them on yourself or on your rig.

     

    Thanks a lot in advance and the very best regards from Kim Meineche! :-)


  17. Thanks Alex!

     

    With 10kg allowed in the carry on baggage I managed to pack my 4 x D200 and 2 x Nexus Housings with in a limit of 15grams! :-) I cheked in my chargers, strobearms, 3D-synchronizer in it's housing, strobecables, etc. and everything arrived well at Malta! BUT.... the carry on baggage was weighed before entering the gate.

    We were a group of 20 divers, so lucky me, a friend had space/kg. left enough to take my INON strobes and a bunch of batteries.

     

    So, all in all a happy ending with a reminder of taking weight and size very serious!

     

    The best regards again from the crazy 3D-underwaterphotographer! :-)

     

    /Kim

     

     

     

    I flew this week with my housing in the hold, but camera in carry on. I fly with Ryanair very regularly as they are the only option between the town/island where I live and the UK.

     

    Ryanair are fine with baggage handling. They have never lost an item of mine. And their flights are very punctual.

     

    However, their whole system is designed to trip you up at each stage of the process - and if you trip up they charge you for it - and they don't accept cash and they charge you for using a card etc etc. They change their rules frequently to increase the chances of catching you out!

     

    That said - if you know all their rules and their idiosyncratic little ways - it is easy to get one up on the system. A great deal of smugness comes from flying for next to nothing and not getting caught out. I just came home with 40kg of luggage and got an extra legroom exit row seat and paid no extra charges. Alex 1, Ryanair 0!

     

    They are strict on the size of carry on - but they have never once enforced/checked the weight of my carry on this year. In previous years they would weigh them at check in and then again at the gate. But this year they haven't cared. Changing the rules, or how they enforce them is very Ryanair.

     

    Alex

     

    p.s. All that said, for divers flying lo-cost in Europe - Easyjet are a better bet. They have no weight limit on carry on (single piece only) and you can pay for an additional dive bag in hold (up to 12kg extra, in addition to 20kg bag).


  18. Hi All Wetpixel members!

     

    Planning a flight with Ryan Air, I would like to know if someone here ever have cheked in a camera body or other kind of electronics!

     

    Knowing from several reads on the web that Ryan Air has a VERY BAD reputation when it comes to baggage and service I think about how to pack my spare-camerabody and some ekstra lenses!

     

    Can it really be right that Ryan Air doesn't allow any electronics, cameras, etc. in cheked in baggage.... or is it just a way to escape any kind of responsability if someone chek in this kind of gods anyway?

     

    The very best regards and thank you very much in advance for your reply!

     

    /Kim! :-)


  19. Hi David!

     

    Bussy with my homebuild videoproject, I have not been online that often, lately! :-)

     

    I really whish you luck in your search of a possible wide angle solution to the TD-10 ..... If there was any available, I probably already ordered the NX3D1? :-)

    With some kind of wide angle lenses, I think you will also be able to focus closer, due to the increased DOF these lenses also provide mostly!

     

    Well, Torpedostationen is just a place where the torpedeoboats, etc. got loaded with torpedos.... so not that much of photographic as historical interest!

     

    I know about the housing for the W3, but as you mentioned, not for wideangle use, which imho makes it useless for underwaterphoto/videography..... at least in the scandinavian waters with low viz and light. With a price over 1000 US$ (http://www.fantasea.com/s.nl/it.A/id.497/.f) I found it to be far too expensive as well... specially if I compare it to prices on other housings for the pocket-cams.

     

    When I'm not working on my costum build W3 housing, I try to find some information to help me figure out what kind of light to go for. As an absolute beginner I simply have to belive what I'm reading and so far I discovered both advantages and disadvantages on HID and LED.

    A major issue to me do seems to be color temperature. Specially because there is no possibility of manual WB on the W3 in videomode, it looks like I should go for HID which will provide a light of about 6000 degree kelvin (Very close to the temperature of daylight)... LED should be only about 4500 kelvin..... please correct me if I'm wrong about my theory!

     

    Except from the bulb-part, the HID from Light Monkey and Halcyon looks very strongly build and I do see many prof. videographers who uses HID as well. I just don't know if they would buy the same kind of light today, since many of the profs. has been in the buisness for several years before LED was developed.

     

    In connecton to the WB-issue I wonder how much WB-adjustment that is possible to do in postproduction and how usefull it will be, compared to the possibility of WB-adjustment right before pressing "Record".

     

    Cheers again from Kim... looking forward to see more of your footages! :-)

     

     

     

     

    Hi Kim

     

    There were lots of current that day. Igara rock has a few wrecks dotted around it. The most well known wreck around this part of the South China Sea is the Seven Skies wreck. It a huge old tanker sunk in 1969 and lies in 20m (funnel) to 70m below the sea. On that same trip we could not dive there due to very strong currents. I hope to shoot some 3D there next year. Definitely need wide angle lenses.

     

    I assume Torpedostationen is a submarine wreck? Looks awesome in the “pea soup” water….Great 3D stills. Really could see the 3D depth.

     

    I have heard good things about the Fuji W3 when it came out. There is even a housing made for this camera. See photo attached.

     

     

    It is not as much fun as making your own and the Raynox lens will not fit this housing. I would be very interested in the results with your custom housing. I am also planning to fit two matching wide angle converters to the TD10. Sony uses G lenses on this camcorder so I need to get the best possible wide glass for this. If this works then in theory putting two close-up lenses might allow focus closer? That would be awesome if it works.

     

    Good luck with the lights. 35W HID on each would provide a lot of light. Have you considered LED lights?

     

    Please tell me how you think about my idea/decision!

     

    Fuji W3 would be one way for just wanting to learn about 3D video. You will soon out grow it.

     

    BTW: Should not forget to tell you that Søren's setup also contains a "Homebaked" dual domeport and he has made one for me as well! :-))))

     

    I would be very interested in how this dual dome port works. Most port for side by side system is flat and even with the GoPro flat port is added. Now if two cameras that could be genlocked and in their own house and each has a dome on an external mirror like yours then maybe close focus wide angle 3D is possible.

     

    A complete report will follow when I finish the project.... or as soon I have some results that is worth to show or talk about!

     

    Looking forward to it. I will upload more snippets of footage taken with the TD 10 and some with the GoPro soon.

     

    Cheers

     

    David


  20. Hi David!

     

    Thanks for the uploads from your TD-10. Nice colors on the clownfishes but in my local waters I will never get even close to a result like this!

    Wideanglelenses are simply a MUST for me to force the dark and murky waters in scandinavia so I made my decision so far: I will go for a homemade underwaterhousing for my FUJI W3. I know this is ceartainly not a prof. camcorder (Or even not close to) but compared to the possible alternatives right now, (NX3D1/TD-10 with 35mm lenses or dual-rig with no Genlock) I think I can learn a lot from the FUJI... specially when I put on the Raynox HD-3035-pro lenses on the FUJI W3.

    Before you laugh at me, I'll ask you to take a look at these still-pictures, taken by my longtime 3D-friend, with dual Ikelite DS 125 strobes (Pictures are straight out of the box, only resized (No sharpen, etc...)): http://sorenhertz.dk/Torpedostationen/Torpedostationen.htm

     

    I think about getting a dual 35watt HID light from Light Monkey for my rig.... quite an investment compared to the price of the camera, but when/If I want to move further with a more prof. rig, I then have the lights! :-)

     

    Please tell me how you think about my idea/decision!

     

    BTW: Should not forget to tell you that Søren's setup also contains a "Homebaked" dual domeport and he has made one for me as well! :-))))

     

    A complete report will follow when I finish the project.... or as soon I have some results that is worth to show or talk about!

     

     

    The very best regards again from Kim! :-)

     

     

     

     

    Hi

     

    More uploaded 3D video. I had a disaster with one of my raid drives so I spend a few days trying to restore all my files. Here is one that I recovered. A bit more on the MVC file. I find that using Sony Vegas Pro 10 is the only way to edit at the moment. This program reads this codec natively. I find it confusing when it come to render though. To make use of the program's GPU acceleration I use AVC and then output to MP4 for upload. However I get this stretched out cinema effect. This AVC 1920 x 1280 is the format Youtube recommends. I need to try using another format to get rid of the letter box effect. This TD 10 uses MVC at 50i and this may be the problem. More experiment is required.

     

    Despite the letter box effect I am quite pleased with the resolution with this camcorder especially when lighting is correct and when it is not silt up. I am thinking about the 3D1 now with the 24p and other formats as oppose to 50i on the TD10.

     

    I am looking at another possibility for wide angle lenses. Some of the ones made by Sony may work. Mounting to the TD 10 camcorder may be a problem. I will let you know my progress.

     

    regards

     

    David


  21. Hi David!

     

    Using the links directly to the youtube I managed to see the videos! What a wonderfull flying GW... That's a really nice shot that I can imagine also has demanded a lot of preparing of equipment and good luck to find the shark(s), etc... Should have been quite an experience to capture! :-)

     

    The footage of the sixgill shark also seems to be nice but the colors looks very weak due to the small coverage of the lens (I presume you have zoomed out to the widest possible adjustment?).

     

    I visitied the Zunow website http://www.zunow.tv/made-in-japan.html to contact them directly and ask if they have any wideangle conversion lenses available or maybe have future plans for making some, but none of their contact links seems to work........

     

    I have also been googling the net for conversion lenses of different kinds, but haven't found anything interesting yet!

     

    Yesterday I wrote Sony Denmark to ask them how I can expect their guarantee and eventual repair if I buy the NX3D1 in the US, UK or another country, since I can't find the camcorder in any danish store yet.

     

    Haven't got any reply yet, but as long there are no wideangle lenses available I think I'll wait....... To make useable footages in danish waters I'll need at least a coverage of 90degrees.

     

    Again... cheers from Kim and thank you very much for uploading the shark-footages! :-)


  22. Oh.... forgot the info about the cleaning... perhaps because it's very simple! :-)

     

    After every dive (With less the mirror hasn't dryed after the previous dive) I just take out the mirror and wash it in freshwater and dry it off with a soft cloth before reinserting the mirror. I also wash and dry the ports as well, s since you will not be able to take away salt crystals, etc. on the port behind the mirror, when you are below surface!

     

    Cheers again from Kim! :-)

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