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Everything posted by Kimmeineche

  1. Hi David! Thanks for you kind words about my 3D dSLR rig! :-) The 50/50 mirror seems to do fine in seawater, but to clean it after diving, I have to move it in and out... over time it's almost imossible not to make some scratches and mentioned in earlier post, my Nikon D200 with 60mm microlens often have some problems focusing on the mirror. The camera that shoots through the mirror seems to have less problems. You can buy the mirrors from www.stereoscopicmirrors.com Before I finished the dSLR-project, I bought some small pieces for testing for a remarkable small price.... you might want to do the same for testing your camcorders abillity to focus before you let the big money roll out of your pocket. From the same kind of mirrors I have also build two 3D-displays with LCD-monitors / digital imageframes like you see at www.3dphotography.dk/3d-fremvisning.htm . These displays works very well, using polarized glasses. Looking forward to see your results and footage! :-) Cheers Kim!
  2. Hi David! I see the problem with fixed side by side systems if you want to do macro, but in the first place I just want something quite small, with an external monitor and wide angled enough to shoot wrecks in the scandinavian waters (Which I live close to.) in a quality, worth showing at my lectures by polarized projection on my 2meter wide silverscreen! I think that functions like "Camera and Rec. on/off", "whitebal.", and "manual focus mode" will be functions enough for the wreckshooting? I do now the GoPro cameras, but found them much to bad in quality as soon the natural light dissapears....... if just the lenses on the NX3D1 could be as wide as the lens on the GoPro... wow!!!!! :-) If 2 x Sony CX560 will not syncro for more than a couble of minutes, I think they are out of question... I do still wonder how Eric managed to handle that problem on his 2 x CX550 rig when he made the nice records from the caves and the waters with the murane eal? I don't see anything out of synchro in these shoots! I build my dSLR underwater stereocamera with the possibility to use it with a mirror for macro http://3dphotography.dk/ , but even I do get some nice results, I also loose a lot of pictures because of focusing problems. (Seems to be hard for the Nikon D200 with the 60mm microlens to focus on a stereoscopic mirror) I only see these problems getting bigger in continous recording with a camcorder. Another posible solution to do macro with a fixed interaxcial camera could be building a thing that works like the macroadapter: http://www.cyclopital3d.com/Fuji-W3-Close-...ro-Adapter.html for the Fuji W3. I am really confused about what to go for, at the moment! Thinking about the synchro-problem and the recording quality, the best solution seems to be NX3D1 over the 2 x CX560 but there might not be conversionlenses wide enough to cover more than a 35mm lens on a dSLR and I don't know if it's possible to put the functions like manual focus, whitebalance, Camera and Rec. on/off to wired bottons through a remote-control... not to mention the possiblity of connecting an external monitor???? Cheers again from Kim! :-)
  3. Hi David! Do you mean that the NX3D1 will not focus closer than 80cm due to it's technical limitations or do you mean it is because of the mathmatics of 3D? With an interaxcial distance of 31mm and optical standard conditions like a 35mm camera, it makes sense to me with the 80cm for the closest focusdistance to keep a good and not too converged 3D-effect, due to the rule of 1/30 (Which mean that a dual camera setup with about eye-distance (65mm) between the lenses (Interaxcial distiance) will focus from about 2meters). With x 0,45 wideangle conversion lenses (If any exis???t) you will have optical conditions similar to about 16mm (20mm underwater) which in my head means about 45-60cm as the closest focus to keep a suitable convergence.... please correct me if I'm wrong.. I am an absolute beginner in videorecording and just take if for granted that a camcorder focusing like a dSLR camera, etc....! If I go back to Erics 2 x CX550 project, it seems to be a succes, both optical and synchronichally (Even I know we only see the pictures on a rather small screen). Since the CX560 is the next generation of the CX550 I can't see why it shouldn't be possible to synchronize such two cameras with the LANC-controller from http://www.digi-dat.de/produkte/index_eng.html#stefraLANC (I don't now much about the techniques here, but couldn't there be other ways to make it work than with the Genlock technique?). I am very courious about your project, David! And even Sony, Canon or Panasonic will make an available solution before you, you will never get the feeling of homemade satisfaction when you just go an buy a camera, ready to use! :-) Cheers from Kim! :-)
  4. Seducted by Eric's very interesting results about a year ago and the new 3D-camcorders that has been revealed lately, I am in the process of figuring out if I should go for a 3D underwater camcorder. Since options for a housing is rather few and mostly very expensive, I am ready to throw myself into a homebuild project... time will tell if I succed but before the first drawings arrives at the table, I have some questions to some of you experienced videoguys, out there! Being interested in the new NX3D1 from Sony, my biggest concerns are the small interaxcial distance of 31mm between the lenses. If they even excist, what lenses would you put in front of this camera to make it as wide as possible? Googling for possible solutions I found this for the Panasonic AG-3DA1: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7435...it_3D_Wide.html If I just could find lenses small enough to add similar abilities to the NX3D1 I will be one big step closer to decide which camcorder to get for my project. Another concern for choosing the NX3D1 is the controlling of important functions like focus, white balance, etc., that seems to be nailed to the touch-panel which will be very difficult to handle in an underwaterhousing, with less it's posible to get some kind of wired remotecontrol with "real bottons" that can be wired out to handles with piezo-contacts. Any sugestions here will be very appreciated as well! Finally my third concern on the NX3D1 is the possibility of connecting an external monitor since it will be really hard and unergonomic to use the onboard touch-panel. My second choice for a 3D-underwater camcorder is getting 2 x Sony HDR-CX560 controlled by a LANC-controller from http://www.digi-dat.de/produkte/index_eng.html#stefraLANC Seems much more easy to fit to an underwaterhousing since LANC-controller and conversionlenses is already available.... BUT... it do seems to be behind the NX3D1 in recording quality and will under any circumstances also be a bigger and more heavy setup than the NX3D1. Excuse me if I am wrong in anything above. I have never held any of the cameras mentioned above in my own hands... just know what I have been able to see and read..... and thank you very much in advance for answers and suggestions to overcome the issues I mentioned as well. Kim Meineche / www.3Dphotography.dk
  5. Thanks for your info! Talked to a friend of mine today who has a pressurepot that is big enough to contain the FP-170 port (Mounted with backcover).... think I am going to test the ports to 7,5bars in this and see what happens. Good idea.... ??? The very best regards again from Kim! :-)
  6. Sorry for my late reply...... just after I wrote my answer, I discovered how old this thread is. Hope my words can be at interest for some one anyway, sometime! Best regards from Kim Meineche http://www.3Dphotography.dk
  7. Hi James! One question comes to my mind: How good do your suit fits you? Free/unused space in a drysuit can be a true hell when it comes to trim, etc... since the air is moving around and makes it almost impossible to lay stabil in the water and my best bet on your problem is simply to much air in the leggs of your suit! For the same reason I use a suit made to meassure (Trilaminate) but since you now have a suit already, it might be a solution with a couble of gaterwraps http://ats-diving.com/product.php?id_product=17 to keep air away from building up in the leggs. Just my 10 cent's words! Best regards and good luck from Kim Meineche http://www.3Dphotography.dk
  8. Dear wetpixelmembers and specially Nexus owners! I'm sure this has been discussed before here at wetpixel, but I couldn't find the thread so please excuse me asking the question again: Planning to do some dives in the 60-65m range I would like to know if you have been at that deep with your Nexus FP-170 domeport. Even it is rated to maximum 40meters by Nexus them selves, I think lot's of people have been much deeper with this port with no issues? I hope this thread can help me to decide if I need a lot of luck to take this port to 60-65meters without implosion or if I can consider this as "Quite safe". Thank you very much in advance from Kim Meineche. http://www.3Dphotography.dk
  9. Hi Phil! Fantastic images! I love the backlight effect on the Motorcycle picture and the B/W-image taken at the stearn! whish I had been there......! :-) Best regards from: Kim Meineche http://www.3dphotography.dk
  10. Hi Guys! Just want to let you know that I have uploaded my website about 3D-photography http://www.3dphotography.dk Grab you anaglyph glasses or cross your eyes and have some fun! :-) The very best regards from Kim! :-)
  11. You are so right Alex! Reminds me of another guy (Don't remember his name...) who once upon a time said somthing like: It will never be possible to send human speach through a wire.... and if it ever will, it will be absolutely useless! Just another eksample on a statement that couldn't be more wrong....so who knows... maybe 3D has a future in a way we can't imagine!? :-) So far, no visual effect more than 3D, has made me lost my lower jaws since I saw it for the first time, 13years ago. Hooked on 3D and putting a lot of money and time into it, I now got so many positve comments when I'm out, showing my 3D underwaterpictures for smaller audiences.... even I know it's far away from Hollywood. The best regards from Kim! :-)
  12. Thank you for the info, Drew! :-) I haven't seen that Nvidia had made this kind of glasses before now! Best regards from Kim! :-)
  13. Hi again Mike! Since I live in Denmark, I relly don't know, but why don't order 5 or 10 pairs of paperglasses to have some for spare or some to sell again to other people in your area? /Kim! :-)
  14. Hi Mike! To view anaglyphs like Eric's stunning videos, etc. you will get a nice result with the red/cyan paperglasses. If you like, you can buy a more solid pair of plastic... for instance at www.berezin.com I have a couble of plastic polarizations glasses for viewing my 3D-pics by polarized projection, but I actually prefer the paperversion (You can get paperglases both for anaglyph and polarized viewing!) since they are much lighter.... and very cheap so if I scratch them, I just take a new pair! I always have a big bunch of paperglasses with me, when I'm out to show my pictures for a bigger number of people and even I ask them to treat them with care, the are still cheap to replace if some people don't! I haven't tried the Nvidia glasses my self, but as far as I know, these are socalled shutter glasses (Quite the same technique like 3D-televisions from Panasonic, Samsung, Sony, etc....!), which is completely useless to watch anaglyph material. These shutter glasses are made for films/files specially saved for shutter glass viewing and I don't think this kind of material can be viewed online with the technique available today! Feel free to ask if you have further questions! Best regards from Kim Meineche - www.photosub.dk/3d
  15. Hey Lee! VERY nice pictures with brilliant colors! Im not sure that I agree with Puffin.... I like it much better when the model is looking at the place were he put his light.... exactly like on your first pictrure. It really gives some action the picture. Keep up the good work! :-) Best regards from Kim Meineche! :-)
  16. Hi Eric! I think it will be impossible to make anything wider than about 20mm (94 degress on fullframe as I remember!!!) from a single lens... so far I am very pleased by using my 2 x 10,5mm on my stereorig..... just came home from fantastic diving at Malta with a bunch of wreck-images! :-) All the best from Kim! :-)
  17. Looks very similar to the lens that my 3D-friend Søren Hertz-Christensen build for Nikonos 5 http://stereoskopklubben.dk/stereokameraer.html years ago by using a couble of lenses from a consumer pentax camera which he killed just to get the lenses. :-) Best regards from Kim Meineche!
  18. Hi Jonny! What's wrong about wearing glasses to get such a nice experience? Of course it's a minus with the glasses, but compared to a lot of other things I really think that the minus becomming more than a double plus when you see the result of 3D....... people are wearing glasses for so many things..... some has to do it all times whatever they do... some has to do it when they read a book, etc... some do it because of sunlight.... A wide number of electrig tools demanding use of glasses (For eye protection) and we all have to use glasses when we dive.... and so far, we have to wear glasses when watching 3D-pictures/movies but that said.... looking at a nice 3d picture/movie can't be compared to any 2D-experience in my opinion! :-) Just a thought from Kim Meineche! :-)
  19. Hi dear Wetpixel members! I have some questions on diving at Malta in July. 1. What kind of suit would you prefer for dives to about 30meters. wetsuit at 5mm or 7mm with or without hood or drysuit? 2. Any special regulations/conditions to make attention at, if we are two underwater photographers who wants to go diving on our own, going by car from divespot to divespot? 3. Do you know any "Must see" spots above and under the surface? 4. Any recommendations on cheap and good divingcenters where we can rent tanks and lead and get airfills (Eventualyt near the town Sleima)! Thank you very much in advance for your help and ther very best regards from Kim Meineche!
  20. Hey wetpixelmemebers! Nice to see a 3D-section on wetpixel. I'm very excited to see what's showing up here in the next months/years and Yes... this is heavy stuff and really complicated to travel with. So far, it's the reason why I have only been using my homebuild rig (about 15kg. above water... Take a look in the DIY section to see/read more about!) in waters that I could reach by car/boat. I would definaitely like to go to the Red Sea by plane in the future, so hopefully I'll figure out how to pack it well! :-) All the best from Kim Meineche! :-)
  21. Are they still broken? I had some troubles just after posting.... but it seems to work here now! /Kim! :-)
  22. Hi Eric and others who are interested! As promised, I show you my top-side rig with the dual AF-S18-70mmED lenses and the cameras mounted to the hengeed alubar. Here is the rig seen from the front, with an extra bar beneath to strengthen the setup while walking arround, etc.. Here is the rig seen from the back... still with the bar to strengthen the setup. Here the extra bar is scewed off and the rig can be switched from landscape to portrait and back in a second. Here the rig is in portrait mode. Best regards again from Kim! :-)
  23. Hi Mark! Super to have one of the true pioneers in this forum.... Søren Hertz and Peter Randløv from our Danish Stereoscopic society has told me about you! :-) Thanks for the link with all the formulars and calculators! It should definaitely be interessting to see some pictures of your SLR-rig. What kind of digital rig have you made for underwater work? :-) In deep respect, Kim Meineche! :-)
  24. Hi! I'm glad you get so excited about my pictures. Unfortuanetly I have no idea on how you can hemmorrage a bank account, but living now in the year 2010 and beeing only 12 years old will give you a very good chance to shoot 3D sometime in the future! :-) Good luck and best regards again from Kim! :-)
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