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JohnLiddiard last won the day on August 21

JohnLiddiard had the most liked content!

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About JohnLiddiard

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  • Birthday 02/25/1960

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    Freelance photographer and journalist working mostly for Diver Magazine. Lots of UK wreck diving, but also like to travel and snap pretty marine life. Rebreathers.

Additional Info

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    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Industry Affiliation
    Freelance photographer

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  1. Work it backwards. What use do you put the photos to: Print or web? What size? Do you crop a lot during editing? That should give an idea of minimum sensor pixels you actually need. Any pixel count more than that is money you are spending on a sensor that you could be spending on a lens, or money you are spending on excess baggage that you could be spending on beer.
  2. I have the Sigma not-VR available. Sigma 105mm macro 1:2.8 D.
  3. I ran a pair of Z240's through a Sea&Sea Y cable without any issues before moving to optical connections. (I have a couple of Y cables and a couple of direct cables available if anyone wants to make me an offer)
  4. I used to get fed up with continual sending YS90s away for repairs, similar symptoms, just not switching on. In the end I gave up on paying for repairs and pulled one apart. Inside the on/off switch rotated a cam against a mechanical micro switch. A spray of switch cleaner cured it for a while, but the problems resumed. With a bit of careful soldering I replaced the micro switch and everything was good again. I found a similar part with a higher specification. I suspect the surfaces inside the switch were oxidising through heating up during high current draw. The strobes then performed reliably until I replaced them with Z240s, which have been flawless for 15 years. If the on/off switch of a YS-D2 is similar, you could test for the same problem by shorting the switch. Take care opening up strobes - there are high voltages that can still be present even when switched off.
  5. The updated software has increased my forum participation :-) Making it easier to follow what is going on and easier to post has done it for me. Being really picky, the number of pinned topics in some areas gets in the way, pushing current discussion too far down the page. Especially when some of the pinned topics haven't been updated for 10+ years. So anything to thin out pinned topics such as archiving them off to an 'info-base' area would help remove clutter.
  6. A dip in the rinse tank while wiggling the controls, then out and in the dry. When I need to crack a housing open for another reason, check the o-rings and clean/grease only if necessary. I have seen many more photographers love their housings to death than I have seen abuse their housings to death. Left unattended in a rinse tank to slowly fill with water; over-maintaining o-rings and mistakenly trapping a fibre.......
  7. I have done 70m dives with them. Likely accelerated the permanent squashing down and the need for an extra ring or two for the next season.
  8. I use slices cut from a hollow swimming noodle. Incredibly cheap and easy to adjust by sliding on more/less rings. They loose a bit of buoyancy with depth and age, but not too much. I just put an extra ring or two every few years.
  9. The attachment system is a matter of personal preference and how much you want to spend. For camera handling, you can treat the feel through the gloves as a completely independent issue to the attachment of the gloves. Go for gloves that have a separate inner glove rather than a built in fleece. That way you can adjust the insulation and dexterity by choosing to dive without a liner, with skinny liner gloves, or with full fleece inner gloves. You don't have to use the liners that come with the dry gloves. An added bonus is they are easier to dry out and you can have a spare set of fresh warm and dry liners for every dive. Even without a liner, I find dry gloves warmer than 5mm wet gloves and better dexterity than 3mm wet gloves. A skinny liner adds a surprising amount of warmth for negligible loss in dexterity. You don't need to buy the full dry glove system to practice. Get some cheap reinforced pvc work gloves, slip them on over some thin fleece liners and experiment in a swimming pool. The actual gloves used in many dry glove systems are pretty much the same pvc work gloves fitted to a cuff ring. The difference in price between dry glove systems is the engineering of the cuff ring system not the actual glove.
  10. Build the circuit into a replacement for a cable bulkhead socket. That way you can convert a housing that does not have room for popup flash or any optical sockets to use fibreoptics instead of cables. Does it also mimic digital TTL? Or just manual?
  11. Swap the left and right over. Keep everything else the same. See if the effect reverses.
  12. When overseas, most boats on a 2-dive trip give you a cylinder for each dive. Take a buddy twinning kit and a second regulator (the baggage weight increase is only really that of a first stage, as you don't need an octopus on either). You now have twindies that you can stretch over 2 dives. You can even use a bit more gas on the deeper first dive at the expense of a bit less on the second dive.
  13. Give me a video camera and I have this uncontrollable urge to turn it 90 degrees for a nice upright portrait shot.
  14. I had a badly twisted ankle and did every dive on a week's liveaboard using duct tape to strap my ankle into a finning position and hold it there. About 3 wraps of tape in a figure 8 did the job. I also regularly wear a back support under a drysuit.
  15. As well as sharpness etc. at standard distances, I would also be interested in absolute minimum distance of lens/port/housing combinations and also a practical real measurement of angle of coverage.
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