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JohnLiddiard last won the day on December 30 2020

JohnLiddiard had the most liked content!

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About JohnLiddiard

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  • Birthday 02/25/1960

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    Freelance photographer and journalist working mostly for Diver Magazine. Lots of UK wreck diving, but also like to travel and snap pretty marine life. Rebreathers.

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    United Kingdom
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    Nikon D200
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    Inon Z240
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    Freelance photographer

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  1. There is a good chance of turtles along the sides of the reefs, usually in the shallows. Much more likely than hammerheads in the deep blue. Keep enough gas to end dives hanging out shallow blue behind where all the boats moore. A wide angle zoom offers some flexibility for the oceanic white tips. Its easy to get swept down current from the boats, so be prepared to pop a delayed SMB early enough to be followed.
  2. One trick for getting back into the boat with a fully flooded drysuit is to get your friends in the boat to pull you out with the source of the leak downmost. As this is most likely to be a torn seal or zip, then being pulled out feet first is typical. That way the water runs out as you are lifted and they are only lifting your weight, not your weight plus all the water. You will probably want a regulator in your mouth while they are doing this.
  3. With my first film SLR I started with only a 28-70 lens. With a dome port it got sort of wide-ish angle. I needed a +4 diopter inside the dome to focus. I also had a flat port. The same 28-70 lens without the +4 turned out to be good for shooting fish. With the +4 behind the flat port it was also good for about 1:1 macro, but wouldn't focus on anything further than a few inches away. I subsequently expanded my repertoire of wide angle and macro lenses and ports to go with them. But even with 60 and 105 macro lenses, I found myself often returning to the 28-70 with +4 behind a flat port as a favoured macro set up because, within its short range, it was very easy to focus and could zoom out a little. Eventually the 28-70 lens broke beyond economic repair. :-( All that is several cameras behind me now. Looking back, that 28-70 general purpose lens stirs fond memories, especially with a +4 behind a flat port.
  4. Maybe for macro, but for anything else you need strobes.
  5. I have only ever used PayPal to buy from eBay. Is it possible to use a credit card directly on eBay and get buyer protection that way?
  6. I have always stored housings closed with O ring in place. Never had a problem arising from that.
  7. When you do the sums, m43 + 14-42 + nauticam wet lenses works out competitive compared to the equivalent set of primary lenses, gears and ports. (or at least it was when I moved to m43) Also your investment in wet lenses doesn't become obsolete if you change to a different camera system. by leaving the 14-42 lens on the camera there is no risk of dust getting in. you can have a TG6 as a back up and use the same wet lenses. you can share wet lenses with a buddy underwater. Disadvantage is max no of pixels available and extreme low-light capability compared to a full frame, but go back 5 years and full frame was no better than m43 is today. In use, avoid being a lens butterfly. Have a plan for one lens for most of the dive and swap only if you need to change the plan or something special happens, not for every other shot. Always swap to the wide wet lens on ascent in case a whale shark swims by :-)
  8. The PG7 on a rEvo have ambient pressure either side of the gland. Ambient water on one side, ambient gas on the other side. Maybe a fraction of a bar variation with breathing and gas addition, but that is all. Could be OK for the surface end of a cable. But I wouldn't risk it on the camera end of a cable.
  9. If you dive with your camera on a lanyard, then think about where you attach the lanyard. I always dive with my camera permanently attached on a lanyard. I usually have it attached to a right shoulder D-ring. On the occasions when I have dived with a DIR style rig, I moved my camera lanyard to a left shoulder D-ring so there was no risk of it getting in the way of long hose deployment. Left shoulder isn't as convenient for getting to my BC inflate, but so be it. AFAIK, DIR purists would not use a lanyard and attach the camera to a crotch or butt D-ring when not in use. I am not a DIR expert, so will leave clarification on that to those who are. The main point for anyone considering a long hose configuration is that the rig is holistic. It only really works if you set up everything DIR. Sometimes just picking pieces of it and leaving the rest can be counter productive or even dangerous (such as mixing a long hose with a camera lanyard attached to a right shoulder D-ring).
  10. With every camera I have owned, autofocus in macro has locked on just behind where I would ideally like the focus to be. Assuming good lighting, it focuses, but a mm or two too far back. Hence even in good conditions, I lock focus and then rock back a fraction to get the desired focal point. For a sequence of pics, I focus, lock or disable AF, then rock to get desired focus for each pic. In poor vis or with a shy subject, I use a light to focus on something nearby at similar distance, then reposition, wait for the shot, rock to focus and shoot.
  11. How about covering the opposite topic. Moving to smaller sensors and reasons to do so.
  12. All incompatible. Even within a manufacturer you need to be careful because they have different generations that may not be backward compatible. However, screw threads are pretty standardised, so you can fit a screw thread lens from A with a bayonet adapter from B. The difficulty arises when a lens comes with the bayonet built in. You don't have any choice what it can bayonet onto.
  13. For convenience and speed, bayonet adapters and a caddy to hold wet lenses not in use. Quick, secure, easy with gloves on and no accidental cross threading. While threads are reasonably standardised, the big disadvantage of bayonets is there is no common standard and manufacturers change their standards. So bayonets are not much use for a quick try of another photographer's wet lenses.
  14. One of the reasons the critters are crazy fast is because of your video lights. With stills and strobes, the solution can be to use a red light for focus so the critters are not as energetic. That addresses the problem from a different direction than spending on the latest autofocus. I don't know what the equivalent video solution is.
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