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Everything posted by JohnLiddiard

  1. There is a good chance of turtles along the sides of the reefs, usually in the shallows. Much more likely than hammerheads in the deep blue. Keep enough gas to end dives hanging out shallow blue behind where all the boats moore. A wide angle zoom offers some flexibility for the oceanic white tips. Its easy to get swept down current from the boats, so be prepared to pop a delayed SMB early enough to be followed.
  2. One trick for getting back into the boat with a fully flooded drysuit is to get your friends in the boat to pull you out with the source of the leak downmost. As this is most likely to be a torn seal or zip, then being pulled out feet first is typical. That way the water runs out as you are lifted and they are only lifting your weight, not your weight plus all the water. You will probably want a regulator in your mouth while they are doing this.
  3. With my first film SLR I started with only a 28-70 lens. With a dome port it got sort of wide-ish angle. I needed a +4 diopter inside the dome to focus. I also had a flat port. The same 28-70 lens without the +4 turned out to be good for shooting fish. With the +4 behind the flat port it was also good for about 1:1 macro, but wouldn't focus on anything further than a few inches away. I subsequently expanded my repertoire of wide angle and macro lenses and ports to go with them. But even with 60 and 105 macro lenses, I found myself often returning to the 28-70 with +4 behind a flat port as a favoured macro set up because, within its short range, it was very easy to focus and could zoom out a little. Eventually the 28-70 lens broke beyond economic repair. :-( All that is several cameras behind me now. Looking back, that 28-70 general purpose lens stirs fond memories, especially with a +4 behind a flat port.
  4. Maybe for macro, but for anything else you need strobes.
  5. I have only ever used PayPal to buy from eBay. Is it possible to use a credit card directly on eBay and get buyer protection that way?
  6. I have always stored housings closed with O ring in place. Never had a problem arising from that.
  7. When you do the sums, m43 + 14-42 + nauticam wet lenses works out competitive compared to the equivalent set of primary lenses, gears and ports. (or at least it was when I moved to m43) Also your investment in wet lenses doesn't become obsolete if you change to a different camera system. by leaving the 14-42 lens on the camera there is no risk of dust getting in. you can have a TG6 as a back up and use the same wet lenses. you can share wet lenses with a buddy underwater. Disadvantage is max no of pixels available and extreme low-light capability compared to a full frame, but go back 5 years and full frame was no better than m43 is today. In use, avoid being a lens butterfly. Have a plan for one lens for most of the dive and swap only if you need to change the plan or something special happens, not for every other shot. Always swap to the wide wet lens on ascent in case a whale shark swims by :-)
  8. The PG7 on a rEvo have ambient pressure either side of the gland. Ambient water on one side, ambient gas on the other side. Maybe a fraction of a bar variation with breathing and gas addition, but that is all. Could be OK for the surface end of a cable. But I wouldn't risk it on the camera end of a cable.
  9. If you dive with your camera on a lanyard, then think about where you attach the lanyard. I always dive with my camera permanently attached on a lanyard. I usually have it attached to a right shoulder D-ring. On the occasions when I have dived with a DIR style rig, I moved my camera lanyard to a left shoulder D-ring so there was no risk of it getting in the way of long hose deployment. Left shoulder isn't as convenient for getting to my BC inflate, but so be it. AFAIK, DIR purists would not use a lanyard and attach the camera to a crotch or butt D-ring when not in use. I am not a DIR expert, so will leave clarification on that to those who are. The main point for anyone considering a long hose configuration is that the rig is holistic. It only really works if you set up everything DIR. Sometimes just picking pieces of it and leaving the rest can be counter productive or even dangerous (such as mixing a long hose with a camera lanyard attached to a right shoulder D-ring).
  10. With every camera I have owned, autofocus in macro has locked on just behind where I would ideally like the focus to be. Assuming good lighting, it focuses, but a mm or two too far back. Hence even in good conditions, I lock focus and then rock back a fraction to get the desired focal point. For a sequence of pics, I focus, lock or disable AF, then rock to get desired focus for each pic. In poor vis or with a shy subject, I use a light to focus on something nearby at similar distance, then reposition, wait for the shot, rock to focus and shoot.
  11. How about covering the opposite topic. Moving to smaller sensors and reasons to do so.
  12. All incompatible. Even within a manufacturer you need to be careful because they have different generations that may not be backward compatible. However, screw threads are pretty standardised, so you can fit a screw thread lens from A with a bayonet adapter from B. The difficulty arises when a lens comes with the bayonet built in. You don't have any choice what it can bayonet onto.
  13. For convenience and speed, bayonet adapters and a caddy to hold wet lenses not in use. Quick, secure, easy with gloves on and no accidental cross threading. While threads are reasonably standardised, the big disadvantage of bayonets is there is no common standard and manufacturers change their standards. So bayonets are not much use for a quick try of another photographer's wet lenses.
  14. One of the reasons the critters are crazy fast is because of your video lights. With stills and strobes, the solution can be to use a red light for focus so the critters are not as energetic. That addresses the problem from a different direction than spending on the latest autofocus. I don't know what the equivalent video solution is.
  15. The computer on strobe arm trick had its origins well before dive computers became popular. Photographers have been wrapping watches and depth gauges to strobe arms or attached otherwise to cameras way earlier. Once dive computers became sufficiently compact that trick migrated to computers, I suspect with the original Aladin or Suunto, so about the mid 1980s.
  16. "I don't know why my housing flooded, I clean and grease all the O rings before every dive"
  17. A bit pricey, but they do come in pairs: https://www.etsy.com/uk/market/nudibranch_earrings And maybe you can gift them on to a loving partner when tests are completed.
  18. I was diving with Charles Hood from a beach north of Nanaimo more than a few years back. Typical photographers, our buddy discipline was shoddy. I was just back at the beach when I saw a splashing 100m out. Charles was being mugged by a giant octopus. Even worse, he had a macro lens. I had a wide angle lens, but had missed the action.
  19. If there wasn't some value in it, they wouldn't have bought it. So the question really is what will they do to extract that value? Asset stripping is about the value of the assets adding up to more than the value of continuing the business. Did they acquire any land/property with the purchase of the camera business? Production equipment that could be repurposed? I like to think that the value of the m4/3 camera line and lenses is what the purchase was based on and these will be continued and developed. That is my photographers heart. My head worries that it could be about land values, new housing and shopping centres.
  20. Congratulations on getting your isolation in somewhere good for diving. Being pedantic, the problem is not depth but ambient light. Too much ambient light means the strobes can't compete. Hence the need to reduce ambient light as far as possible without reducing strobe effectiveness. Affecting ambient light: aperture shutter speed iso depth clarity x depth latitude time of day Affecting strobe light: aperture iso clarity distance from subject output power (and limited by TTL) Aperture and iso are on both lists, so playing with aperture or iso are unlikely to make a difference. Shallow depth and clarity are the input conditions to your problem. Shutter speed and strobe settings are the adjustments already covered by previous posts. But you can only work those so far. So think about time of day. Do your wide angle dives early and late in the day, when ambient light is reduced. During the midday hours, shoot macro, where small aperture and short distance from subject allows strobe power to easily dominate ambient light. Round about 4-5pm the sun angle also gets low enough to create interesting dappled surface lighting and sunbeams to provide a really nice ambience to wide angle shots.
  21. > "We live in the "good-enough society", Phones are not locked in to just the software the manufacturer provides. They are part of a whole ecosystem of 3rd party just about good enough software. Don't like the way the something on your phone works - well browse the web and try a few 'maybe good enough' alternatives until you find one you like. Whilst I curse the poor quality of much of such software, and even more the bloatware that comes pre-installed with a new phone, the fact remains that I have a choice and eventually find something that, at least for me, suits better than the original. Its not just the phone hardware manufacturers that are pushing the whole ecosystem forward. Their software development is limited to a few proprietary drivers and configuring an operating system. But they benefit from many orders of magnitude 'free' (at least to the manufacturer) additional development work from a world of developers. The first big camera manufacturer to take the plunge and open up their platform to third party software could start an evolutionary rush of innovation (much of which will be barely good enough) that others will have to follow or get left behind. Rather than comparing the benefits of Nikon / Canon / Sony / Olympus, we will be comparing the benefits of what software we have installed. But by providing a route out of stagnation, would that also result in a further 'commoditization' of cameras and shake up of manufacturers? Will Sony and Nikon embrace android, while Apple partners with Canon for iEOS?
  22. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-37356-2 To be fair, when this paper was first referenced in the diving press, there were marine scientists who wrote to disagree with the results. Also, its flash/strobe, not video lights.
  23. I would have upgraded camera bodies more often if manufactures kept the body physically compatible. ie. I can continue to use this year's body in last year's housing. But even with the smallest minor version upgrade they insist on moving a button a few mm and thus a camera body upgrade dictates a housing body upgrade and hence the cost of upgrading is prohibitive. The last time I managed to do that was a Nikon F801 to an F801s! (I still have them sitting in box somewhere if anyone wants to make me an offer) Looking at it naively and simplistically, if manufacturers committed to a standard physical body across several models and just fitted different electronics into it, they could put the cash saved on tooling into the electronics and get more sales from us underwater photographers. But then we have been saying that forever and no manufacturer has listened to us. That is all at a bit of a tangent. As per the original premise, I agree that once you have a camera that can see better than you can, focus faster than you can, and takes pictures technically good enough for what you want to do with them, why should you ever need more? The product becomes a commodity and has to compete on price and convenience rather than technical excellence.
  24. I used to use Sea & Sea strobes because they were cheap and easily available. A false economy because frequency of failure and consequent cost of repair accumulated annually. I moved to Inon strobes and in 15 years they have never failed. The only disadvantage is you need a phd in Inon to work out how to drive them. I would hope Sea & Sea electronics have improved since. Nevertheless, the design of the battery contacts and the lever micro switches inside appears to be the same or similar, so perhaps those failure points remain.
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