Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Diveshop

  • Rank

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70
  • Camera Housing
    SEa & Sea
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea
  1. Thanks Guys, The sensible option seems to be to just mount the valve onto the strobe port and fit the electronics inside the housing rather than re-engineer anything. S.
  2. Does anyone know if it's possible to dismantle the Nikonos 5 connector on the end of a Sea & Sea sync cord? I have just bought a Leak Sentinel for my Sea & Sea MDX-D300 housing and I want to fit it to the spare strobe port but the two strobe ports are very close together and the body of the Leak Sentinel catches the knurled ring at the top of the threaded section of the connector for the sync cord. I need to machine it down to make it fit but to do this neatly and avoid damaging the cord I really need to take it off the cord. The lock ring was easy as it just unscrews but the remainder of the connector looks to be sealed. I can just mount the valve onto the strobe port and fit the electronics inside the housing but I would prefer to mount the whole unit externally. Does anyone know if the connector can be taken apart or has anyone any suggestions for sorting this? Thanks. S.
  3. Hi, Birchley Products used to make these: http://www.birchleyproducts.co.uk/ I don't know if they still make them but they're still up on the website. Based in Gloucester.
  4. I used to have a simillar problem when I first got the Nikon 10.5mm fisheye lens. Many of the Nikon lenses have a decorative gold ring and gold lettering on the lens barrel which seems to reflect the light and caused me the same sort of problem. I used a piece of black elastic which I stitched into a loop which fits around the lens barrel and covers the gold ring and lettering and seemed to solve the problem. It's cheap, easily available, doesn't mark the lens, stays in place inside the housing and can be easily changed between lenses. Hope this helps.
  5. I am looking for some advice on dipoters for wide angle lenses. I have probably done something simple fairly obviously wrong and hope someone can put me straight. I am using a Nikon D70 in a Sea & Sea housing and have recently bought a Nikon 10-24mm zoom lens to replace the Sigma 10-20mm I had been using. I have two dome ports which I can use with the Nikon lens, the Sea & Sea Compact Dome Port with the SX Extension Ring which Sea & Sea list as being the correct port setup for this lens, however the front ring of lens makes contact with the inside of the dome at about 20mm focal length. I also have the larger Sea & Sea dome - the acrylic one not the optical glass one. The lens fits behind this without making contact with it so I use this one instead. My problem is that I am getting very soft images which I wasn't getting with the Sigma. The Sigma just had a little softening in the corners but careful composition dealt with that. Perhaps significantly, the Sigma had the same port setup listed as for the Nikon (Compact Dome with SX Extension Ring) but it actually used to fit behind this so I used the smaller port with the extension ring rather than the large port. I also have the Nikon 10.5mm fisheye lens and don't have any problems with this lens when used with either of the domes (obviously without the extension ring). My understanding was that softening in the corners of an image was caused by the failure of the lens to focus on a part of the virtual image that was closer to the lens than the centre of the virtual image and that the addition of a diopter improved the close focussing ability of the lens which addressed the problem. I bought a +4 dipoter for the Nikon lens but it seems to be making matters worse as it introduces distortion into the image without improving the softening around the edges. With the thickness of the diopter, the front of the lens makes contact with the inside of the small dome at about 16mm to 18mm focal length so I have continued to use the larger dome. I have attached a couple of examples of the problem. The shot of the two divers was taken before I bought the diopter and the softening is clearly visible around the diver on the left and in the bottom left corner. The shot with one diver in it was taken with the dipoter in place and the distortion is very noticable. The 10-24mm lens is nice and sharp if I use it topside, but the diopter introduces distortion. I calculated the dioptre strength from a spreadsheet I downloaded from the Cameras Underwater website, but it is quite possible that I based this on the smaller dome rather than the large dome that I am actually using and so have a stronger diopter than is actually required. Any suggestions?
  6. Hi All, I thought I was already registered on Wetpixel but it didn't recognise my e-mail address so perhaps this is my first time here. I am diving just over 25 years and have been actively taking photographs for about 10 years. My first underwater camera was an Agfa 2008 which took 110 cartridge film in a Guppy housing and I used snorkelling about 35 years ago. I currently have a Nikon D70 in a Sea & Sea housing. The Diveshop handle comes from some of the guys in my club who differ from my approach to redundant systems when diving, until they break something and come running (or finning) to me for help.
  • Create New...