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platzja

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About platzja

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    Clownfish

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    Auburn, ME
  1. I need to replace the synch cord connector on my S&S D60 housing, the part that mounts through the housing. Do you know where I can purchase a replacement part?
  2. James, Thanks for suggesting ProShow Gold. I downloaded the trial version and am giving it a try. It looks very promising. It says the audio synch can be done manually. Does that mean you have to adjust the duration of each slide by typing in the individual durations, or is there real-time selecting slide transitions (e.g. by hitting "enter") as you listen to the soundtrack?
  3. James, I have also been experimenting with apps, trying to find the ideal slide show software. Have you tried Power Point? I think that Power Point 2002 seems to be the best (for many reasons) so far, and I believe it meets all your specs. However, you are right on that none of the programs (that I have found anyway) offer the ideal audio synch capability. Power point does have user defined audio synch (SLIDESHOW>REHEARSE TIMINGS), but I am finding the repeatable precision of the recorded timings is sometimes lacking. I need to do some more experimenting with it. Comments?
  4. I have had good luck with: pictureframes.com
  5. TED- I have a DSC-S70 in an Ikelite housing with Ikelite strobes, and have taken many great photos with the setup. Here are some points to think about. I am not suggesting that you do or don't go with the S70, just a few things that you might want to consider their significance for you. 1) There is no fully manual exposure mode. You can select aperture priority or shutter priority, but cannot control both at the same time. 2) There is no hardwire connection provision for a synch cord for an underwater strobe. You will only be able to use a strobe with a slave sensor. 3) I never had any luck with the camera in a TTL strobe configuration (although I hear that others do). However, I think you are better off shooting manual anyways.
  6. davephdv- I blocked off the lower-left camera shoe contact (looking down at the camera shoe contacts with the lens aimed away from you) and everything seems to work fine. The strobes fire (1 strobe with single cord, or 2 strobes with Y-cord) and the preflash does NOT fire. I used a small piece of Scotch tape (2 layers) to cover the contact. Extend the tape beyond the back edge of shoe down the edge of the camera so that the spring-loaded contact on the housing adapter slides up and over the tape without tearing it or displacing it. Try this and let me know if it works for your setup. Does this mean it is a matter of modifying the bulhead or synch cord so that the contact is disabled? Am I missing something? I shoot only in manual mode, so if this affects TTL it is not a concern to me.
  7. I have spent some more time troubleshooting and have discovered the following: 1) Using a Y-cord with only one strobe hooked up (for diagnosis), when using one side of the Y, the setup will work properly, that is the preflash will not fire when the internal flash is disabled. However, when switching the strobe to the other side of the Y, the setup does not work properly, that is the preflash will fire even though the internal flash is disabled. 2) With 2 strobes hooked up to the Y-cord and both turned on, the preflash will fire even though the internal flash is disabled. But, if the strobe on the "bad" side of the Y is turned off the preflash will not fire. 3) When using a single synch cord the preflash will still fire with internal flash disabled. This is all very strange. I spent some time on the phone with Ikelite. I am going to try new cords and see what happens. Even if this problem cannot be corrected, as you say, it can just be ignored. It is my understanding that the preflash uses less wattage than the flash, so the drain on the battery is less than it might be. However, it would be nice to have everything working as it was designed. By the way, in a world where most companies don't even know what the term "customer service" means, Ikelite should be commended for their commitment to customer service and support.
  8. Thanks for the responses. 1) I am running in Manual mode. 2) I am using firmware V1.7 (hold down menu button on start-up) So maybe there is a camera software/hardware problem to be fixed?
  9. Anyone- I am using a CP5000, Ikelite housing, DS125 with synch cord. Have tried all of the appropriate menu selections for the internal and external strobes, but the internal strobe will still fire even if the menu selection is for it to be disabled. The monitor shows the two strobe icons correctly: the bolt indicates the external strobe is enabled and the slash/bolt indicates the internal strobe should not fire (but it does). Although the system will otherwise work OK, it is a significant and unecesssary drain on the battery. I hate to waste time and money sending the camera in for service if it is not broken or if there is no fix for this. Has anyone experienced this problem or know of a fix?
  10. pakclu- Check these out: colorvision.com monacosys.com itec.net color.com In my experience, LCD monitors cannot be calibrated and profiled with any high degree of accuracy and consistency.
  11. James, I can't seem to successfully log in to the chat. How is it done?
  12. pchristen, Try this: Use manual exp mode set 8.0/250 Adjust the strobe so that it is not closer than 45cm to the subject when the subject is say 15 cm from the lens. (The strobe will be angled back from the camera.) With trial-and-error adjust the shutter speed so that the exp is correct. (or adjust the f-stop if you have to) As you take shots with the subject further and further away adust the shutter speed (or f-stop) one step at a time. Note: make sure the sensor is pointed in the direction of the cameras built-in flash
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